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Heres a few short videos. Not the best quality and from my ipad! D5701.MOV An unusual visitor to the MSW area, D5701 on a cross Manchester freight. 26002.MOV 26002 on a short passenger train at speed.

well its been a long time (again!) since ive updated this! Honestly, ive not really done much. Instead ive been messing around with my cars, one of them in particular. Its my new toy, that I imported from the states! Its needed a fair bit of work and re-commissioning since it got here. So on the layout front, ive replaced the factory across the back of the layout with a small hill and a layby at the top. I think this looks much better with grass, bushes and trees than it did before. The old buildings didn't look all that great and they were starting to get a bit old and past it. The groundwork was all made in the old fashioned manner of carving old polystyrene blocks to shape then covering in pollyfiller. Once dried it was painted then given the treatment with various static grass materials, bushes and trees. The trees are from Themodeltreeshop.co.uk. Im very pleased with them, and the prices are pretty good too. Ive also done a few odd bits of detailing in a few places aswell as adding trees etc around the layout. Its amazing the difference these can make to the look of the layout. Aside from that, ive just been operating the layout now and again. Its nice to just sit and 'play trains' instead of constantly building things and doing scenic work. That's about it for now!

Technically it's still 'under the MSW wires' even if it is at Reddish depot! Class 28, I don't think this was a one off either, although certainly not a common occurrence. I'm sure they did run around this area on test after they had been in Reddish for work/repairs. https://www.flickr.com/photos/12a_kingmoor_klickr/5865657851/in/photolist-9Wk2HV-91ZEWd-ef62V6-gx7Vqd-hyeq4j-f5euvT-74d5Bn-95eNrw-efbJbY-9ucuTT-efbFru-djfrK1-8ZcnhK-cVVSUS-pvd75Y-ef69zg-e2Bc1K-d6R5Vq-6b6Zj7-kLvKoe-9Worpu-cKx64S-bxrawA-91WzKM-ax2PpZ-o7u64q-GHfxU-nS3mDm-9d6tca-KdZpX-jpPmJz-5jNqoJ-e4aLBA-bj4Qdt-kLxTSy-acsy6q-aJiw4D-9egnL7-brta79-kLwrtn-efbRHW-631jMD-9tBXTA-HLPML-jUmhcr-b8PPvH-9FS6Xo-78voR4-7fdNfW-e3uZ2Z

Mk1 Granada's in general are rare now! Mainly due to rust and being the banger racers weapon of choice for decades, with the mk2 following close behind! There are actually two variations of mk1 coupe. One has a 'coke bottle' style rear quarter, the other has just a flat line following the front door top line. Then, there's a coupe limo aswell, these are very rare!

Quick update, the scenic work around the bridge is nearly done now. While waiting for glue and paint to dry on that I decided to get on with another 76. Really quick and easy job on this one. It started out as a BR blue, boiler fitted E26049 model. Converted to the final 'tommy' E26057 'Ulysses' in ex works condition circa 1968 like this pic taken of it at Reddish https://www.flickr.com/photos/27045884@N05/3256128268/in/photolist-5XJvuy-7fEmMu-kqr5Ji-kLvFPF-9nPns7-9xaZwj-aomCKE-9rn4jr-9rq2FS-jpPmJz-fPm1GR-84Bhp5-9Wy3jH, This loco, later in its life was one of the grounded bodyshells, used as a parts donor outside Reddish before eventually being cut up for scrap. All old numbers removed by carefull use of a fibreglass pen, new ones applied to all cabsides (fox transfers), vac hose ends picked out in matt white, lower cab fronts repainted blue and finally etched 'Ulysses' nameplates added. The nameplates proved to be a pig to make stick! I usually use a spot or two of varnish to stick nameplates down but on the 76 the plate fits over one of the raised bands on the body sections so the varnish didnt want to stick the plate down. Instead I had to use superglue, which I hate having to use as you only get one shot to line the plate up and stick it before the glue sticks and makes a mess if you get it wrong, or as it dries white vapour stains the surrounding paint finish. I managed to get it about right fortunately! The only other thing I had to do was rebuild one of the bogies, as on opening the box I found it in bits scattered around the box! Still, not a hard job, just a bit annoying!

This is brilliant! Your overheads look spot on. Everything just looks real and life like! Keep the pics coming!

Its about time I posted at least some sort of update on here! Not a huge amount has happened to be honest, mainly running trains and actually using the layout instead of making things etc. But, I have made some alterations/additions to the overheads so now the wires extend into the headshunt and stabling point area. The 2 diesel fuel roads are not wired but the remaining 2 holding sidings and headshunt are. To do this I made some further variations of the classic MSW portal style overhead supports aswell a some single span types and a couple of different anchor post types. E26055 Pometheus in the headshunt. I have been gradually building up some stock suitable to run this in late 60's green/blue transition aswell as the normal 1980ish period. 26002 on a short passenger turn. The last vehicle just in shot is a former southern region BSK still wearing green livery. E26031, the only EM1 to wear BR green with full yellow ends, on a train of Bachmann covhops. Finally, ive got the scenics and scenic break bridge almost completed. This is the last section of the layout that needed scenics adding. I will probably re-do a few other areas at a later date as im not 100% happy with them as they are. Once this area is finished the wires can be installed and then the next job will be to get the pantographs raised on the locomotives! Also on the workbench are 6 of the new Bachmann class 40's of all three types.

Thanks for putting these up, they are brilliant! Keep em comin!

If you do end up sending a damaged one back to Hornby for a voucher dont send the old bodyshell with it as you wont get it back! Obviously if its totally split and trashed it doesnt matter. I had a 31110 (R2421) that had just started developing this problem, the cab roofs had faint hairline cracks just starting. On removing the chassis to see what was going on the cab ends broke off the chassis casting and the splits in the bodyshell closed up and are hardly visable anymore. I removed the old body and kept it, returning only the damaged chassis and a brief covering note (mainly as to why the body was absent) Hornby gave me a voucher which I used to buy a new NR yellow 31 which I used as a chassis donor for my old 31110 bodyshell. The spare brand new NR yellow bodyshell went on ebay!

This is a great thread! I love old classics (bangers!) and own a few old Fords, amongst other things. I currently have: 1974 Ford Capri mk2 1.6L, was my first car and Id not be without it! Needs some welding now to the floors but its still on the road. 1984 Ford Transit mk2 2.0 LWB high top, totally original, never welded! ex BBC mobile radio studio with only 18K on the clock! Im converting this into a camper at the moment. 1985 Ford Granada mk2 2.8 ghia x estate, these are awsome cars and im surprised they arent more popular now they are getting rare. This one I saved from the banger racers and got back on the road again. Once I welded the inner wings back together and put a new outer wing on it was fine. Ive had no trouble with it really and its never let me down! 1987 Volvo 740GLE 2.3, bought cheap 8yrs ago, sorted a few minor issues and its been faultless since, not even failing an mot in that time. Not a classic yet but a great old barge to use in all weathers! Heres a few rubbish phone cam pics of them! Capri and Volvo. Granny. Transit, parked in a tight space and a bit hard to take a decent pic of it! As if all that isnt enough, I decided a couple of weeks ago I wanted to get a big yank tank! Ive always loved american cars but never been able to get one so a couple of weeks ago I rectified this problem! All a bit spur of the moment but if you think about things for too long rational thinking kicks in and ruins it! Its still in the US at the moment but its in the process of being collected and shipped over. 1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429ci ( 7.0 litre!) big block V8 full size monster! (Its the 4 door version of the car used in the film Uncle Buck!) I really cant wait for this to get here! Its cost me a lot so far, more than ive ever spent on a car before by some way but if your going to do something stupid, do it right!

I would have loved to make my catenery wires from scratch but I really dont think I have the patience to actually do it! Making the masts etc is enough after a while! The wires I used are these: http://www.blackwells-miniatures.com/overhead-wire-07-x-360mm-qty-5-p-4270.html They are listed in the N gauge section but in my opinion might be a bit thick for N gauge? They look fine in oo gauge though. Having said that the real OH wires were pretty beefy being .3'' copper which is quite chunky, heavy stuff so it might not look too out of place. They are however a bit pricey so I bought mine a few packs at a time spread over a few months! They come in packs of 5 lengths. The instructions say to make little loops for the ends to sit in but I didnt bother with these and mine just sit on the wire supports on the masts and the insulator bridge on top of the cross beams (for the top wire) I have not had any problems with them falling out and you can only see the joints between all the sections if you look closely, again its the best compromise I could come up with! Having them all sit 'loose' like mine also allows them to be quickly removed and reinstalled for cleaning of the track and hoovering dust etc. Its also worth noting that not all of the MSW overhead wiring is of the compound (3 wire) type, the main lines used it but in less used, slow speed limit sidings or MPD's like wath and reddish they used standard 2 wire catenery. Which is also available in the same packs from sommerfeldt. I bought alot of my mast sections, insulators, etc etc from blackwells. They stock a good amount of sommerfeldt parts etc that have come in very usefull. Alot of my standard H masts and cross beams are made from sommerfeldt masts like these: http://www.blackwells-miniatures.com/h-profiles-3-x-3-300mm-long-app-ns-pk6-p-4066.html they do a smaller size probably more suited for N gauge aswell: http://www.blackwells-miniatures.com/h-profiles-2-x-2-app-300mm-long-pk10-p-4065.html I also used Eileens emporium: https://www.eileensemporium.com/ for alot of the brass H, C, section masts and various sizes of angle, flat strip etc. The A frame portal I made is entirely made of brass materials from here! Regarding the way the OH wires work on points, junctions etc this pic shows a junction point: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7600438@N08/2267401853/in/photolist-4sn2zp-4sr6f9-4zubjX-4GzDXJ-4MdEsx-4Nu4hv-4NyuzC-4VGXsH-5oZixr-6b6Zj7-6PJ5od-78voR4-78zhgW-gx7Vqd-9d6tca-a9Hvx9-a1Z6CZ-ejjWXc-ezi6my-fUBhng-fyjNg8-epw8pB-eFhayV-fxywYA-eibyXk-efbxf3-ejjWcg-f5euvT-eqsiJQ-ef69zg-djfrK1-eRC32Z-dDiTh1-e9oPWy-dKa4Ec-7GCctK-eQa5uM-7GGb6w-7GChin-7GCgjx-7GG9zN-7GGa9Q-7GCd3P-7GGaC5-7GCfKt-7GGcKo-efbK9S-efbJbY-ef5YBa-f5eB1H-efbFru The wire closest to the mast follows the curved track. The wire furthest away from the mast is running alonside the main wire, if you follow it back towards the main lines you can see it splits away from the main wire and is attatched through insulators onto the mast at the side of the main lines (the anchor mast has reinforcing angle iron triangular brackets attatched to it and into concrete footings in ground for added support) This outer wire will evenually follow a set of points off picture (bottom of the photo) and run along its own seperate siding, loop whatever. The reason it was built like this was so the pantograph pan could follow one wire, then when a change of track was needed the second wire would also be in contact with the pan until the wires eventually split far enough away from each other that the pan was only in contact with the new wire. http://www.flickr.com/photos/70055227@N02/7611959402/in/photolist-cADhkm-dRCsvk-9HYPKf-9Wy34V-8nYhzb-8nV9wn This pic shows again two anchor posts either side of the main lines with new wires running alongside the main wires probably leading upto a junction etc. Hope that helps, or just add to the confusion!! It took me ages to try to work out how and why the overheads worked! I work in the power distribution industry so this helped a fair bit with this, giving at least the basic ideas of how it might work, and I took some interest in this part of the layout building aswell!

As Paul said, I think the first 10 production EM1's (76's) went for trials on the Liverpool street - Shenfield line which was originally wired at 1500v DC (now converted to 25kv AC). They were sent back north to Wath depot to be used in the first phase of the Woodhead route electrification trials in 1951. So they did briefly work in Essex! And of course the EM1 prototype LNER 6701 (later 6000 then E26000 'Tommy') worked in the Netherlands until the Woodhead route project was re started after ww2 when it came back and worked alongside the production EM1's. And then the EM2's (77's) were sold to the Netherlands after BR finished with them aswell.

Thanks Ralph, glad you like it! As you can probably tell im a big fan of the class 76's! They look very dated but to me at least very characterfull. The technology they used at the time they were made was very advanced inspite of how they appeared, just a shame they were so quickly overshadowed and outdated by 25kv AC power. Brian, the junction overheads took me a while to work out aswell! Its not the same as modern 25kv set ups. Normally for junctions, sidings etc there is some sort of anchor pole or structure either to one side of the tracks or like mine using an A frame portal (The A frame type were usually used if there were multiple anchor and support requirements as the A frame is much stronger than the other types) where the ends of the wires are attatched through insulators, the wire then runs along side the 'main line' wire for a short distance before splitting away down its own route. The same sort of thing was done for where overhead wire sections started and finished as the two sections had to overlap each other for a distance so there was never a break in electrical supply to the locomotives. The ends of the wires on each section would then terminate against an insulator attatched to an anchor structure. Hopfully that makes sense!

Nearly 8 months since I last updated this thread!! Again progress has been slow, mainly due to work and other annoying distractions! But ive also been spending a bit of time just 'playing trains' instead of making scenery etc. I decided to build a small overhead feeder and isolator structure to go with the substation. This was made from odd parts left over from the catenery and off cuts of wire etc. Ive also been making a road over bridge to hide the transition into the fiddle yard area. This is a plastic-card base with Wills stone sheets glued over the top. One deck has Wills girder sections used just for a bit of variety. The pics are of it in the painting stage. I have also made some anti arc boards to be fitted once the painting is finished. On the motive power side of things, BR green full yellow ends E26031 has left the bench. This one started out as E26051, green small yellow ends, boiler fitted. The boiler moulding was removed exactly the same as the other blue ones. There is a slight complication here though as once the paintwork has been patched in the strip of lining needs to be replaced. I used fox transfers lining strips to do this. They arent exactly the same shade as the originals but a bit of toning down/weathering should hide the differance. Also, the renumbering couldnt have been easier! simply remove the old 5 and replace it with 3! I used a fibre glass pen very lightly to remove the old numbers and fox transfers numbers are a perfect match for the original Heljan numbers. The BR logo was also removed on one side and re applied in the correct place for this loco. Its worth looking carefully at the position of these as theyre not all in the same place, this applies to both green and blue versions. When I was converting this one the only prototype pics I had were of it in a filthy weathered state, therefore i dont know if the buffer beams should be red or black? I assume since its still green it would have kept the red beams but if anyone knows better... The same goes for the cab front handrails, should they be green or white? Lastly, two recent(ish) additions to the 1960's fleet. EM2's, E27005 Minerva and E27006 Pandora. Pictured straight out of the box! I know there is some controversy over the shape etc on these but I think they look great! The electric blue Pandora in particular looks superb.

Great photos. Its lucky so many of them ended up sitting for years instead of being cut up straight away. Gave the preservationists time to reserve one! Just a shame the same didnt happen for the early diesels.

Yes, I thought it was a pretty good outcome myself. I would have rather had my chassis repaired but it wasnt a total loss in the end! Ive just used my voucher, on a R3044X Network rail 31! Im going to use the chassis from it on my 31 110 bodyshell!! as it appears to be the right type! I will just put the Network rail bodyshell and the DCC chip on ebay and get something back from them aswell! All's well that ends well!!

Well, ive finally had an update from Hornby about my R2421 Dutch 31 110, which I sent back in December 2012. And its not the best news unfortunatly! They sent me a letter saying that because of the problems on their end sourcing the right parts for this models repair, its not possible to repair it! I guess its bodyshells or the right version of chassis casting or something specific to 31 110 that is the reason. On the plus side however they have given me a voucher/code worth £125 off on the Hornby website, so at least thats something. Given I bought my 31 110 at a heavily discounted price of £65 some years ago it means im actually up on the deal! I was also lucky in that I caught my model before too much damage happened to the bodyshell (hairline crack in the cab roof, almost invisable with the chassis removed) and therefore didnt return the body with the chassis, so all I need to do is buy a new chassis or chassis donor for the old 31 110 body! Good as I like this model. I would add, if anyone has this model and is considering returning it for repair, do not return the body as you may not get it back again. Obviously if its split and smashed it doesnt matter but if its saveable id say keep it, and send them just the damaged chassis. I think, from the letter it is only the R2421 model thats affected by this, unless anyone has had the same letter from a different model?

At the end of the day thats it, pay your money and take the chance on second hand stuff. Chances are the chassis hasnt been swapped over or messed with but only the original owner will know for sure, and they may not want to tell the real story! You could buy a used one and have a good look over it before handing over your money, check for signs of the body being taken off, poor fitting body/buffer beam gaps etc, signs of wear/scratching to the body mounting screws (where someone has used a screwdriver on it) etc. Anything that might indicate its been messed with, if it has or you have any doubt just look for another, theres plenty of them around still. Of course this is easier at a shop, exhibition stand etc than it is on ebay. If a seller had anything about them im sure they would have no problem opening the model up for you to inspect the chassis before you buy it anyway. Maybe worth thinking about? Personally, with the model in question I would buy it if its advertised as new and the price is good.

I dont think 31268 (R2413B) is affected. I think its just the original 3 versions, D5512 Green skinhead, 31270 Blue, 31110 Dutch that are the ones to worry about. I have several of these models from all different batches/years of production and the only one ive had the issue with is the first release models (31110 Dutch). I have the model of 31268 your looking at and its not showing any signs of the chassis destroying itself! Not yet anyway! Hope that helps!

I had an Airfix 31 and found it ran fine on code 100 set track, but I sold it on before I started using flexitrack so cant comment on that. I always found mine to be a good runner on its original motor (with that moulded plastic centre wheelset!). To be honest, I know some dont like the Hornby body, but on balance I find it the best. It runs/pulls superbly, looks perfectly fine to my eyes - and when its running you cant tell anyway! I dont really have the time or inclination to buy an old body, new chassis and start hacking the two about to fit. I prefer to just alter and detail the Hornby ones. But fair play to those who do want to... Theres some superb Hornby/Lima hybrids people on here have made! Im happy with my Hornby ones (ive got several!) but then im also happy with my Bachmann class 40s, even with their problems. Saying all that however, I have still kept most of my old Lima 31s, I never use them and have a sentimental attatchment to them but they still look very good, even in out of the box form. The 31 shortly followed by the 47 were always my favorite Lima models, just a shame they never ran half as good as Hornbys version. This is a modified Hornby one I converted and resprayed to one of the original 31 0s, with its nose end doors still in place (etched craftsman parts) Probably not as good as some peoples converted Lima ones but it does me, and it runs brilliantly!

I would avoid using these dodgy chassis. The chassis block is one piece metal casting, so includes the cab ends aswell as the motor housing section. The issue is contaminated alloy being used in its construction so the cab ends snapping off is just the start of the problem. The cab ends are a thin weak part of the chassis so are normally the first bit to be affected. As the whole thing is made from this same material eventually the whole casting will be affected to some degree. It may completely disintergrate or just break up one bit at a time. It may take years for it to do this but im sure it will happen. I would think the best bet, if you want to use the Hornby chassis is to use a non affected chassis from a later model and just cut off the cab ends or whatever bits arent needed.

Oh dear! Have to say, now im worried about mine! You dont send a defective item back and have to put up with it coming back in a worse state. It looks like someone has done this and clearly just thrown/forced it all back together without any care at all. Aside from the damage, the poor fit of some of the parts really is terrible. The swarf all over it is asking for trouble aswell, if it creates a short somewhere it'll have to go back again. Any machining, filing etc should have been done before it was put back together. From your pics, it looks like the swarf is from someone enlarging the chassis/body mounting screw holes to try to get them to fit!? I may be wrong but they look larger than I seem to remember them normally. I hope this is just an isolated example of poor workmanship. Ill have to have a good look at mine once it comes back, should be easy to tell on mine as I didnt send them the bodyshell! Be interesting to hear what they have to say.

Brian, as nice as WR hydraulics are, id say give the electrics a go! I think you'll be suprised how easy it is to make catenery! That said, I do have a few Hydraulics, although they dont fit in with my MSW theme. Ive got a pair of the superb Heljan Hymeks, a Warship and am very tempted to get one (or three!) of the new Dapol Westerns. I think the Heljan Hymek is still one of my fav rtr models, even now, after more recent, finer models have come out. It still looks 'right' to me. Dutch, Ive just spotted that too!! Didnt even notice it on the layout! Funny, it looks quite bad but doesnt seem to affect running at all? The current permanent way staff have all been reprimanded and the issue will be sorted! And, yes, I do still need to do something about the pans. Id like to use the Judith Edge ones but making up as many of them as I need doesnt appeal much at the moment. Plus ive got loads of weathering to do. Just need to get some practice with my new airbrush set first.

First update of the year from me. Not a great deals been done again, mainly due to it being a bit cold out in the shed this winter. I also had a leak in the shed roof which dripped down onto the scenic side (typical!) so had to fix this aswell. Fortunatly I spotted it before too much water got to the scenics and put a bucket under it! Sorted now though. Firstly I got round to some scenic bits between the main lines, and near the diesel fuel area. Static grass, scatters and a couple of small huts sorted the bit between the tracks. The same again on the outer side near the diesel fuel point and a short length of security fencing. I also made a length of the 33kv feeder cable and associated pilot cables. These ran along most of the length of the MSW route, connecting all the substations and the Pennistone control centre to the rest of the power grid. They were made simply from brass section for the concrete supports, the 33kv cable is copper 240v flex, stripped of insulation and soldered on. The smaller pilot cables are 0.6mm MIG welding wire, again just soldered on. The solder 'blobs' were then filed to a rough shape and painted a rusty colour to look like the metal hook brackets that supported the cables. I have also (almost) finished my Blue, small yellow panel, non boiler EM1, 26002. This one started life as a blue, boiler fitted model. The boiler hatch being carved off as per the last one. Then it was stripped, the roof masked off, and primed. Then sprayed Railmatch BR blue/Warning yellow. Gloss varnish applied where the decals were to go. Fox transfers added and once dry given two coates of satin varnish. The only down side is I managed to lose one of the clear light pieces and one cab footstep! Should be easy to make some replacements though! Im pleased with how it came out, and its a bit different. I think its a livery that looks good on these locos. And finally a few pics of 26002 on the bend near the new feeder cables.

Yes, I got a letter aswell, 20% discount when ordered direct from them. Could buy another 31 I suppose!!