long island jack

maybe some useful info on this site

 http://designbuildop.hansmanns.org/a-guide-to-1920s-era-ho-scale-plastic-freight-cars/

just an update, fitted a coin battery holder and battery, now all back to normal.

How about Big Eagle RR

https://appalachianrailroadmodeling.com/railroads/current-day-appalachian-railroads/wfrr-winifrede-railroad/

If your still using the first plan, you need insulated fishplates where they are on my plan and power feeds where shown on my plan ,hope this helps

Looking forward to the show in March and may be a few sherbets after the show!!

Just a heads up, i'll be exhibiting at Macclesfield show on the 26/27 March, call and say hellooooo!

Glad you liked it Keith, this is a keeper (famous last words!)

update for my loft empire

Your 18w iron isn't hot enough for normal solder, you need low melt solder or a bigger wattage iron.

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/magento/model-railways/walthers-cornerstone-brand5/walthers-cornerstone-wh933-3152.html

2411 switching Jersey girl brewery

Have a look here may give you some ideas 

http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/IndustrialLocos.html

What is the purpose of the bottom track, because the head shunt doesn't look big enough for a loco, never mind anything else

To me this a case for, less is more

Pulling Arnold steel, those tracks are really creaking!!!!

13 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

The only thing I don't like about power cab controllers is the throttle. I naturally thumb downwards to slow things down....on the power cab that is go faster.... causing me to be shouted at as the DMU which is supposed to stopping at the branch line terminus suddenly making a suicide dash into the buffer stops.

 

Give me a twirly  knob to play with any day.

The lines around the thumb wheel are a bit of a clue, they decrease down wards, looks like you've got one wired up wrong

http://kendalmrc.org/exhibition.html

Sunday was, track cleaning and running some of my earlier period stuff

Had a look inside the LZV100 yesterday, looks like there's hole already for a battery holder, (wonder why they didn't add one), instead of a battery, it looks like a straight forward job, once you get the battery out, has any body gone down the battery holder replacement, was it as straight forward as it looks.

6 hours ago, Crosland said:

I am a bit concerned by the conflict between leaving it plugged in to charge the battery and fitting a bog standard coin cell, let alone a lithium cell to replace a rechargeable battery.

 

 

What's your concern, the unit is on for 6-7 hours at an exhibition and the CR2450 is a non rechargeable battery, there must be something in the circuity of the Lenz lzv100, to stop the battery getting a charge and blowing up, now thinking about the advice given, the 5 hour charge and reset seems a waste of time, if in deed the battery is dead.

more searching came up with this from RS

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/button-batteries/1916772

18 minutes ago, Jeremy Davison said:

Hi, I had this problem with my LZV100 unit. I found that you can get the proper replacement from Farnell and I took a photo so that I could help others in the Preston club.

My unit has worked properly ever since.

I hope that this helps you and others

Cheers

Jeremy

Bu**er out of stock!

Sent A & H an email got the same advice, didn't work for me still have error 97, looks like i've two choices, A & H fit new battery or i fit a CR2032 battery holder, will take it to bits, to see how big a job it's going to be and if i'm able to do it.

Need help, getting error code 97, which is internal battery needs replacement, the battery needed  seem to be rare as rocking horse droppings.

I've tried a reset which hasn't cleared the error code, any suggestion or a fix for my problem.

I've with drawn my statement

 Hope it's a successful day and plenty turn up, also hope there'll be some photos of the layouts on here.

Ray