Jack P

Yes indeed! Apparently very similar/the same as the one at Billinghurst. Thank so so much for the information on lineside structures. It's amazing how many things you need to start figuring out, once you choose to model a location (even approximately). I'm very excited about the challenge though. Next step is identifying the different types of trees. I'm also slowly starting to figure out the signal gantry and the 3rd rail aspect. I realise that the explanation of the boards was a bit poor - to summarize. There is 3650mm of board length, with the rectangular boards being 550mm W, the angled board splaying out to 700mm at the far end. This should give me plenty of room for the junction to divert off at the end, and enough space to represent the curve as it comes up to the signal box.

Copied from my post on Tony W's thread. There was a discussion around baseboards and i'm interested in feedback! The cost of laser cut baseboards + postage to New Zealand is both difficult to justify fiscally and from a creative sense. I spoke to a few people who have built baseboards/layouts and they suggested the skeletal approach from ply, with the flat surfaces then cut from ply once the trackplan was printed and tweaked. I ventured to the local DIY store and returned with some sheets of 9mm 'Okoume' ply. The angled board took a bit of head scratching to make sure I had lengths and cut angles right. After I'd assembled the two boards, I decided it wouldn't do justice to the trackplan I was intending to use to only have it across two boards (too much compression) so this afternoon, a third board was started. To make my life easier, I used the jig/cutting brace that came with my circular saw and ripped lengths off the board along the short side. This meant I had plenty of boards that were all 1200 long (2400 x 1200 ply sheets), and then cut the spares down for ends/bracing formers. I then marked out and used the jig saw to make the slightly more 'artistic' cuts. I'm already aware that I would do things differently next time - for instance; I probably don't need braces at 200mm centres and i've not cut any holes in the bracing strips (which are too close for me to get a hole saw into). But it was a great learning opportunity and I'm pleased with what I've produced. There are still bits to do, once the track-plan is printed and affixed to the ply toppers, I can start to work out where I need to make cuts to the bracing boards to allow for anything underneath. I'll also laminate the ends to be at-least double thickness. My question to Tony's thead followers (and you guys!), is; do we think 550mm wide boards are too narrow to allow a natural depth of field, without it feeling forced? The track plan is a simple two track main line, diverging into a junction. The plan is to loosely base the scene on the junction at Hardham, the two photos below were really what drew me to this location. It's nothing overly complex, but level crossing gates on a turnout were interesting, plus the raised signalbox and junction. It's early days yet, and I'm still not convinced I have the guts to make it prototypical. But i'll keep you updated as I go. That's all for now!

A day late and a dollar short to the discussion around baseboards. The cost of laser cut baseboards + postage to New Zealand is both difficult to justify fiscally and from a creative sense. I spoke to a few people who have built baseboards/layouts and they suggested the skeletal approach from ply, with the flat surfaces then cut from ply once the trackplan was printed and tweaked. I ventured to the local DIY store, and armed with some sheets of 9mm 'Okoume' ply I set to work. The angled board took a bit of head scratching to make sure I had lengths and angles right. After I'd assembled the two boards, I decided it wouldn't do justice to the trackplan I was intending to use, so this afternoon, a third board was started. To make my life easier, I used the jig/cutting brace that came with my circular saw and ripped lengths off the board along the short side. This meant I had plenty of boards that were all 1200 long (2400 x 1200 ply sheets), and then cut the spares down for ends/bracing formers. I then marked out and used the jig saw to make the slightly more 'artistic' cuts. I'm already aware that I would do things differently next time - for instance; I probably don't need braces at 200mm centres and i've not cut any holes in the bracing strips (which are too close for me to get a hole saw into). But it was a great learning opportunity and I'm pleased with what I've produced. There are still bits to do, once the track-plan is printed and affixed to the ply toppers, I can start to work out where I need to make cuts to the bracing boards to allow for anything underneath. I'll also laminate the ends to be at-least double thickness. My question to the group would be, do we think 550mm wide boards are too narrow to allow a natural depth of field, without it feeling forced? The track plan is a simple two track main line, diverging into a junction. Thanks in advance for any answers!

Finally bit the bullet and started my two EM kits. Much to my surprise.. I also finished them! Need to now go through and fix everything down (and swap out the slightly too short stock rail on the diamond). I was hugely impressed with the instructions, the bases print quality & the general approach to construction. I'm also amazed at the quality of the end result that I managed to produce. I had thought for a long time, that the cast common crossing was a godsend, but having built the diamond from all rail, I can see how much nicer they look, and not difficult either! Wayne, could I just check, are the sleepers a specific spacing/width? I'm just comparing the turnout to my PECO EM flexitrack, and the timbers are thinner and differently spaced. I've got a junction to build, and so I'd love to make sure that things match up - should I be using C&L flexi instead? Definitely not a criticism as this is my first foray into 'proper' track construction! Thanks in advance, and thank you for producing such an excellent product!!

Hi guys, As the title suggests, i'm curious if there are any other kits for SR/SECR/LBSCR level crossing gates? I'm aware of the Wizard models LSWR/SR version, and it does look pretty close to what i'm after, but I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks in advance!

Any updates on when the 'SOUTHERN' Liveried coaches might appear?

Thanks Rob, I'd probably describe my approach as 'feathering the edges', the loco looks clean from the side (where you'd usually see it), but has a bit of muck around the edges and underneath, I find pinwashing works really well on the SECR underframes, as it nicely highlights the detail without looking filthy. I also think the horizontal surfaces of the footplate/cab roof etc, always benefit from a slightly more obvious toning down. I've seen what you can do though.. and you'll absolutely ACE it, no doubt. Hi hi, thanks for dropping in. I find that the easiest way to remove the hook from most wagons is to pinch the sides with a flushcutter (or similar), just enough to grab it, and then pull it out with a quick snap of the wrist. Usually that then leaves the start of the pocket intact, the original hole can then be drilled out, I usually use a .5mm bit, and I drill out the top and bottom of the pocket, then (If I can) the middle, or I cut the centre out with a sharp knife. Once you've cut the hole you can choose to either glue the hook in, or rig it up to be sprung. I can take some photos next time I do this!

It's actually been really hard recently to find time, there's (what feels like) an infinite number of other things to do. Appreciate the kind words, as always! Heya Rob, I gave the whole loco a coat of super glossy lacquer, and then misted the dome with the mucky boiler colour I use, seemed to 1: lift everything else to a similar gloss level underneath, and 2: cut back the shine ever so slightly. Hope that helps! Here's the back - not quite as toned down

Ooops, 27th of Jan.. it's been a while, but i've not been idle. Lots of commission work on the go at the moment, excitingly, some narrow gauge stuff! Here's a selection of what i've been working on for others: And some stuff i've been working on for me: That's all for now!

Hi folks On the hunt for x4 axles (EM preferred, but will take OO) of the Ultrascale 4'71/2" GWR 14 Spoke 12"c/t c.b.s. Happy to pay more than market rates/Ultrascale pricing. PM me :)

Link to update for those who (like me) are lazy: https://railsofsheffield.com/blogs/news/new-samples-secr-maunsell-d1-class-4-4-0-steam-locomotive

Bump - On the hunt for an O1 kit!

This accurately sums up the absolute madness that modelling the NZR seems to be. Lots of very skilled people amongst that mess of scale and gauge though.

Righto, so a week has passed and the workbench is now suitably messy and cluttered. Actually even more so since this picture was taken.. My first task was to make a little spray station, instead of having the spray surface directly on the cutting mat/workbench. This one also has a small shelf along the back for lids. I'm considering adding a lip along the front to help hold the bottles in place (if the unit is knocked) I have a surplus of Rapido wagons that need attention, so I though I'd have a go with one of the SECR vans to get my eye back in with weathering. I think it came up alright - a few tweaks to the next one. I've got a swathe of commission weathering work that I need to get through, including almost the entire lineup of Bachmann's new Narrow gauge locomotive fleet; so these rapido wagons will make for good practice, although the narrow gauge stuff is absolutely tiny! I've also had the Bachmann Dance hall brake in the pile of things to attend to. I had originally thought that I would leave it as is, and accept the discrepancies in the accuracy, but while I was working on painting the interior, I decided that I should give it a once over. First off, the conversion to EM. The Wheels that the wagon comes with are much bigger than the Gibson replacements I have, and I spent some time trying to turn them down to be more EM friendly, but they wobbled like mad. So in went some pinpoint bearings, to improve the rolling qualities, and then some Gibson spoked wheels. They're not quite right, being 8 spoke instead of 10, but by 1947 they might have had Disc wheels anyway? I also carved out the brakes to be safe, but the Gibson wheels sit a mile away from them anyway.. so perhaps it's worth investigating some replacement options. I also filed down the fronts of the axleboxes and did my best to add some half round plastic rod to the sides, and plastic strip to the front, to bear a passing resemblance to the SECR axleboxes. Not perfect, but passable. I took the opportunity to remove the footboards and then paint the solebars, I then glued the steps back in place. I removed the Large letter SR livery and used some HMRS transfers to keep the same number, but in the small logo post-1936 livery. I painted the roof grey while I was there. The next job will be adding 3-link couplings, and then it will join the queue for weathering. Confession time: The HMRS transfers are really shocking, nowhere near as crisp and clear as they used to be, and heaps of goopy film to remove - enamel thinners seem to be the best way, but too much and you risk destroying the transfer. I need to find a new supplier. The paint on the solebars was mixed by eye and isn't reeaaaaally the same shade as the body, I'm hoping that with some weathering it will be hard to tell though. In the last photo you can really see how far the brakes sit from the wheels, it's not the worlds worst, but still not great. I think overall it looks about right. I'm hoping that Bachmann do another batch at some point and I can do a few more modifications and tweaks. There also aren't any photos out there of these vans in the post 1936 livery, so this was a bit of a guess. I worked off the comparison to other brake vans, and the one image I could find of an S-prefix van in one of mike king's books. Finally.. meet the newest member of our family! We had decided that we would wait for 1yr of home ownership before getting a cat. Tomorrow (28th Jan) is the 1yr anniversary of our offer being accepted, and we moved in about a month later, so not quite 12 months, but we can make an exception. He's 5 months old, grey, and very friendly. We need to keep him inside for the next two months, as he's still a kitten. Oh, and his name is Otto!

I had suggested an intercom system between here and the house, just incase I needed another gin sour. Kathryn (unsurprisingly) vetoed that idea pretty quick! 21C151 was a western section loco, sadly. It's unlikely it'll happen, but I would love to model her, if for no other reason, to pay homage. Small bits left to do now, installed a shelf to mount my main desk light on. Used a bit of offcut from the desk so it ties in nicely. Also cut a grommet hole for cables to pass through. My job today is to cut the one on the other side, and tidy up the other side of the shed. That's all for now

Now this is not the end. It is not even the beginning of the end. But it is, perhaps, the end of the beginning.

Happy New year folks! Nearly a month has gone by. Various frustrations with tradesmen, and whether or not they actually turn up when they say they will has meant things didn't progress as quickly as I would've liked them to. Anyway, we are nearly there (I am sick of saying this). I really wanted to keep the Plywood cladding bare. But untreated plywood is very absorbent of, well, everything. and it doesn't really seem like an ideal finish for a workshop. After some googling/youtubing, I decided Danish oil would offer everything I wanted without changing the finish of the ply too much. I also applied Danish oil to the benchtops, so far I've done 3 coats with wet sanding in-between. In the below image, you can see the oiled side on the left, and the un-treated side on the right, it's really added some nice depth & sheen. I've also been prepping the hardware for the benches. Adjustable legs, and heavy duty brackets. The brackets are galvanized steel, and I didn't like that the finish didn't match the legs - Some black Zinc paint sorted this out for me! Oh, and this is where we've got to tonight - not to brag but I cut and laid the carpet tiles myself. The ceiling has been painted, along with the brickwork next to the bench. Some of the threshold for the door has also been painted. But this will be an ongoing process. Lights are installed and working, and we have power! I’ll paint the cable trunking, but once I have a new tin of paint I’m thinking about taking the lights down and painting the entire ceiling at once to make sure it’s cohesive. Hopefully more soon!

Is it the spring, or the shank? I oiled my shanks and did lots of repeated compressions of the springs to help them slide and and freely. Might have sanded them slightly too?

Hi Tony, Fantastic, Love the end of year updates. I'd be very interested to know how you get on with the C3. I've pestered Mike about the B4x, the one on Ian Rathbones site is an absolute marvel to behold. Happy new year!

I'm not sure what the inside of the tender looks like, but it might be a good candidate for a motor mounted in the tender, with a shaft driving the wheels?

Those are some very pretty boxes! Are they still on track (huehuehue) for Q1 2023?

Possibly the last massive understatement of the year? They look fantastic Iain!

Ooooh, That DE 0-6-0 Shunter looks excellent. Really looking forward to that one, Will it be buildable in EM? Merry Christmas Mike!

Righto, another update! Builders paper in the rest of the gaps. An annoying task when you can't run large sheets (like you would before cladding went on) That means its time for the forbidden candyfloss. Cables run everywhere I need them, and some cladding back in place. Next, marking out for the TV mount, power point and ethernet cable outlet Reinforced the back of the TV mount with some scrap bits of ply - just so I could get some decent length screws in there. Glued and clamped before final assembly, and glued onto the back face of the cladding. Not the prettiest job, but it didn't mess it up.. Switchboard - FITS! Woo, and it's level even. I opted for a flush mounted board, on the advice of my mate. Once all wired up and in place, will have a framed picture over the front. Final fit up - Need to cut a few more pieces for the top section, but I need to run one final cable over to the other side of the shed first. Tantalizingly close. I don't think I'll be back in before the new year sadly, but it will be soon! Really looking forward to proper modelling updates vs Jacks Construction thread...

Another update; We are nearly there. Well, for the 'new' side of the shed at-least. Had a rather wet time running new 6mm cables under the house from the existing switchboard to the new sub box. Also ran data via an ethernet cord, and a cable between the outside lighting switch of the house and the workshop. The intention is to have the outdoor lights switchable from inside the workshop, and the house. Making a start getting building paper up, then once the wall is levelled off i'll insulate. Then it's installing the new switchboard and running cables for powerpoints/lighting. The 'old' side will be next years project. I have the flooring ply, but it won't be ready to go in for a while. You can see my new benches on the left, and the 12mm interior ply on the right (this will be used to clad the new side). All for now, really hoping I can get a bench in place before the new year. But it's looking unlikely. Months without being able to work on models feels like torture.