RichardW1

Richard,

 

They're coming along nicely.  I look forward to seeing them trundling back and forth to Lambourn.  Are the underframes kit or scratch built?  If kit, which ones?

 

One final question, when is Lambourn out and about again?

 

Regards,

 

Ian they are on Eveliegh under frames like yours. I need now to do the turned parts, gas cylinders, lamps etc, but that will have to wait for the workshop.

Lambourn was at AP last weekend, and Bognor Regis in a couple of months.

 

Hi Richard

Yes the floor, sides and ends fold up into a box. The framing is an overlay, from thicker material. There are a lot of bits to add on.

There are w irons and chassis parts, but the w irons are 12 mm and too tight even for 12.25 axles, I'll raid the bits box.

Two end varieties plain and with end doors are catered for.

I'm glad your work bench is tidier than mine!

Really good to spend some time with you all. I wish I could have stayed a bit longer, but had chores to do at home- followed by an evening concert in Kettering to see Fairport Convention ( bit off topic).

As with many good models each time I see St Ruth I see more, not just as the model develops, but as detail emerges from the initial impression. The backdrop is especially good.

See you at Chelford.

That looks really good Ian, Will you be bringing Modbury to Chelford?

R

That is the colour, I am sure you can get local trade paint mixers to make up a batch

I'll pm you with a picture as I can't post in a comment here

By far the best colour is BS10B25 Matt, not vinyl. Black is just crude, and adds nothing to the display.

The BS no above is a drab olive green, and will compliment ground scenic tones of either greens, in vegetation, or Browns/ greys for rocks or roads, even brick in townscapes.

Hi Don

Yes they are all manual, operated from a lever frame, and wire in tube.

I may well experiment with minx micro drive TOUs, using the lever to operate a microswitch to control the unit.

...on the other hand I may simply use MERG servo system, there are already a spare two outputs on the servo controller. Depends on how strong I feel the tie bars are. The minx unit can exert quite a force during calibration.

Richard

To be fair Mark did say the Aveling was 'nearly' ready for painting!  I reckon sometime next year would be a possibility.

I am sorry to hear of the earthquake- I hope you have someone nearby to help you with setting things right again.

Thanks Andy,

That's a good idea. I have heard very good reviews of Morley controllers. But will need to try one on my locks with coreless motors before I buy this time.

Julia,

The spokes are rally fine, but I am not sure about the translucent con rods! (Shoulda gone to specsavers!)

RIchard

Julia- in the end it was easy- I held the led in an aluminium vice and use a very hot iron ----very quickly!

Thanks for your advice ( and Rich B)

I've not fitted the flicker unit yet- I have some,,,,,,, somewhere!, (but where?) It will be a relatively simple job to modify the wiring unit.

Looks good Julia, when will we see it again?,

On another matter could we talk re the LondonAG -it would be good if you came and gave us a talk!

Richard

Hi Mookie

It was an article in BRJ that was the initial spark, it carried all the relevant info. For the building I just counted bricks, and filled in the rest from guesswork.

R

These are really good, I have at least 3 to convert for Lambourn, and I guess a barrier van with DGs at one end will be needed to couple yours into a train.

See you at Keen House.

Lovely stuff Richard.

 

Jerry

Thanks Jerry-you'll have to bring your one to Keen House , so I can see how JG put the mech together. Not that I want to copy it, but it might give me ideas so that I can copy it!

Thanks to all for the positive comments N15class - 2mm is big enough thankyou , mind your 3130 is very fine!

Richard

I'm pleased to confirm that it is. Thank-you

I really like the model of a typical railway modellers workshop, delightful clutter.

The boxes look well, I look forward to seeing them on Lambourn, ( and will have to convert my rather heavy, unconverted Lima jobs!

Richard

As ever, a first class piece of work. What milling m/c do you use?

Richard

The flywheel was machined as a solid piece! The problem is my awful Chinese lathe - tail stock is not quite accurate enough - i am looking at a new lathe for my birthday

I am looking for your email to send you a longer clip

Thanks for the comments

Richard

Weathering on the top of the boiler is superb- how have you managed to get it to stay put? I never have any success with powders.( probably not reading the instructions!)

Richard

Jerry,

I agree no oscars (RMW's limit on file size), but I am happy with the running.

I did consider a fly wheel, but it made things worse. I need t find a way to true a flywheel on the motor shaft.

Richard

Very nice - is this the 2mm finescale version that appeared in MRJ way back? [MRJ Index says no. 32 which must have been mid-late '80s!]. If so, it's worn very well.

 

Adam

Yes this is the same layout

I found that using an airbrush to blow dust from a layout worked well,  perhaps combined with something to try to catch the now airborne dust .

 

-  Nigel

I like that idea- thanks Nigel