latestarter

25 minutes ago, DCB said:

The issue as I see it is UK railways have to be fenced.  By Law.  There must be fencing between the farmland and the tracks if it is to look "Right" Only a very few Light railways (St Coombs) and tramways were unfenced.   Post and wire were frequently used which is not easy to replicate but post and rails as somewhere around 3ft spacing of posts,  12mm 1/2" should look right.  Failing that some close spaced fencing is available from Ratio etc . That clear separation of railway land and farm land would  help the layout "Look right"  without too much work     Your ballast is 2000s era scruffy, it should be much neater, like underlay, for steam era or even preserved lines. and should continue between tracks with a dedicated walking route, often cinders beside the tracks, very neat pre diesel era.   

Starting from scratch I would try to get some variation in level, My ideal would be track level above a lake or river level by an inch or so, lots of station platforms are on bridges over streams or rivers (roads even) 

It's worth remembering most rural railways were threaded between existing  buildings.  Pretty much anything pre 1870 pre dates the railway.    Its actually quite amazing how close the railway was to some houses, though not usually on the same level.

 

 

Thanks for all the great background detail info. I'll have to live with most of the layout as it is now - but I do regret not doing enough research on the condition of the tracks for the steam era. I'm not sure how to correct that without ripping it all up to be honest.

22 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi again,

You mention using the land for abandoned farm machinery. But perhaps it would be better used for abandoned railway machinery. Perhaps wheels and a mobile crane, Bits of track etc.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have some 'dumped' carriage wheels on there already, and a disused carriage on blocks (as a workman's hut, with toilet) on the other side of the shed. I'm now thinking of something more scenic, as I have a large depot at the other end.

Thanks for all the responses guys, they are much appreciated. My specific replies are below...

@cypherman The building nearest the 'plot' I'm referring to is an engine shed, which has a fairly large area to itself already - and there's a bigger one at the opposite end. Photo below.

@The Johnster Good to hear from you again. Thanks the detailed reply. I totally agree with you about a gap in the hedge and a gate. I'll get onto it. See above re: the building to the left. There is a large farm area in the center of the layout, which includes chicken coops and even 3D printed chickens that I made myself. So, (as with the engine shed) I'm trying to avoid too much repetition. See photo below. I've done some fencing on the layout, but totally agree that it needs a lot more. Thans you.

Using the plot for old farm machinery, old vehicles and/or caravans really appeals, and that would give me some 'weathering' work to do. I think that may be my first option.

@wasabi But then again....the stone circle is a great idea, not least because I am literally surrounded with stone circles, and standing stones where I (now) live in South Kerry. This would seem like the obvious choice, in order to reflect my actual locality. Now, I'm VERY confused. :)

 

I'm looking for some suggestions on how to improve this triangle of my layout (55 x 45 x 25 cm).

If I took the 'fencing' away in the middle, what could replace it and fill the space more appealingly?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Stephen

 

7 minutes ago, Steven B said:

There's no mention of disconnecting the Hornby Selecting in the OP so I thought it worth mentioning. Sensible don't you think?

It's fair to assume I know nothing! :)

9 minutes ago, WIMorrison said:

Get hold of a fibreglass pencil and rub it on the inside of the blade and the stock rail where they close together to clean them. You can also get hold of some switch cleaner and spray that in the gap to clean the contact surfaces (but not everyone likes using this sort of stuff). Also give the blade pivot points a blast with contact cleaner.

 

EDIT, I note you are using these Hornby clips to power the turnout blades - I recommend that you take them out and use the switch cleaner and fibreglass pencil on them also, they are notorious failure points on layouts.

Thanks again for your help. I was racking my brains today wondering about the best way to clean them. I've actually got two fibreglass pens somewhere. I'll dig

 them out tomorrow. I did wonder whether I should clean the Hornby clips. Thanks for confirming that.

I've worked it out, finally. The inner (far) switch rail needs to be pushed right up against the inner main rail, somewhere in the middle of the switch rail, in order for it to make contact.

I'm not sure why that is, and it's a bit of a pain, as use that point a lot. I seem to need to push it with my finger every time I change the point and need to put it back.

Any thoughts on fixing it are welcome.

I think I've narrowed the problem with my A4 (Mallard) cutting out as mentioned. It seems to be going dead when it goes over this diamond crossing (on the plastic area). All thoughts are welcome.

9 minutes ago, Steven B said:

 

Don't connect both DCC systems at the same time!

Is that possible, if the switch only goes on when it's set either to one side of the centre or the other?

1 hour ago, WIMorrison said:

Simple is always best - that is exactly how to do it 😉

KISS is my motto. Thanks for the clarification. :)

44 minutes ago, WIMorrison said:

Take the output from the EZ Command to the common poles on a DPDT switch them you take the track from one switched set of terminals and the programming track from the other. You then move the switch to whichever you want active.

Thanks for that! A basic follow up question, please (electronics is definitely not my 'thing' and my brain hurts even thinking about it)....

On a 6-pin DPDT switch, would it work putting all the red wires (of 3 pairs of connections) on one side, and the corresponding black wires on the opposite pins? Sounds a bit too simple, but I hope it's right! :)

10 minutes ago, amdaley said:

I have sent you a pm Stephen.

Tony.

I've replied. :)

Neophyte wiring question!

I have a bus wired DCC layout that I'm currently controlling with a Hornby Select DCC controller. Connection is very straightforward, as I just put the red and black (tinned) wires at the end of the bus wiring,  into the Select. I can then put 2 red/black wires from my programming track into the Select when needed. 

The Bachmann EZ Command seems to have a single-ended plug that goes to a track fitting. I assume I can take this off and bare the wires, and then wind them around the red/black bus wiring? Is that correct?

Also, is there a simple way to connect the controller to the bus wire to make it easy to swap the layout wiring for the programming track wiring?

Thanks for any help.

16 hours ago, amdaley said:

That's good news Stephen.

Decoders will sometimes default to address 3 if subjected to a short.

What Dcc system are you using & what size is your layout ?

Tony.

 

The layout is 8 x 4ft  and I'm using the Hornby Select decoder, although I think it's getting a bit worn out after 1 year's use. I'm looking for a not-very-expensive upgrade. 

Thanks again @amdaley (Tony). I put it on the programming track and it worked, at the original cv address. This made me think that the issue was with the track, but not the whole layout, as locos were working on other lines.

I've narrowed the problem down to one of two sets of points, which are next to each other on a straight line. I'm 90% sure that one of them is not creating a circuit, some of the time. At the moment, it's working, and I'll give them both a good clean tomorrow.

Thanks for your input.

4 minutes ago, amdaley said:

HI Stephen.

Have you tried to read the decoder on the program track ?

Tony.

 

Hi Tony

Thanks for the reply. I do have a programming track, but I haven't tried the loco on it, yet. By 'read', do you just mean see if the address appears in the controller - or is there another test I should try?

When I last ran my R3395 Mallard, about 2 weeks ago, it ran fine at all speeds, with sound and no issues at all. Today, it ran for about 3 minutes, juddered on some points (that may have been set the wrong way - but not certain) and lost power. It got sound back once or twice, but didn't run at all after that, and now it's quite 'dead'. The connecting wires between loco and tender all seem to be intact.

Does anyone know what might be happening?

Hope you're all doing well - and Happy Christmas from the west of Ireland!

Stephen

@markw and @MikeParkin65 Thanks very much for your replies. That slide-bar, has literally just been fixed and came back from the dealer on Friday. So, I hope that's not an issue.

I have just seen 2 wires hanging loose from the orange connection box. I assume, that's the reason for no power. I have no idea how they came off - and certainly no idea at all about how to put them back. I think that loco is going to become a quite expensive ornament on the layout!

13 hours ago, MyRule1 said:

Having now spent the weekend experimenting with various options, all around standard solenoid point motors of three types I have these observations to add;

Back to the OP and the retailers suggestions.

 

This weekend as part of my layout build I tried four types of point motors, all above board as the pre-laid track and my baseboard design  means beneath the point installation is too difficult:

 

Peco PL-12 Motor Adaptor Base + standard throw - fine bur too close to the track to fit a realistic building over it.

Peco +se with extension throw, this allows for a building to cover the motor, and the the throw can be covered as well.

Hornby side mounted motor, seems find but fiddly to mount and does not fix Peco points. Not realistic.

Gaugemaster side mounted - easier to locate than the Hornby, but my example jammed after a few throws. 

 

Of the these the Peco seems the most reliable and easiest to install, My layout has space for these as it is a single line with sidings, but might be difficult on a more complicated layout.

 

As to operation - I tried both PC based software and controller. Finally decided that although DCC was nice to have, as my layout is bases in 1944, I want to have the look and feel of a signal box rather than press buttons. I have a couple of Peco  PL-26R Passing Contact Switch Red Lever's in stock and these worked fine. However at around £10 each these are not a cheap option. Therefore I have gone old school and ordered some  old Triang black point levers of the internet at £3 each (free postage for a bulk order). 

 

As to wiring - two wires from my power supply to the switches and three wires from the lever frame onwards to the point motors.

 

When they arrive I will poot some pictures of the installation in my build thread and a link in this thread.

Very helpful, thank you. Which peco's did you opt for - the PL-12's or the +SE's?

My Bachmann Ivatt 2MT (with a sound decoder) is just back (yesterday) from the repairer, who fixed a problem with the wheel linkages coming loose. It ran quite smoothly, but not perfectly, for an hour so, and then seemed to have problems connecting to the track. I managed to get sound from it, by holding it down and/or moving it back and forth.

But, now it's causing the EO (overload) error on my Hornby select controller, on a fully bus-wired DCC layout. The error won't clear while the loco is on the track, but, once removed, it will clear and then 'shorts' again when the Ivatt is re-railed.

Can anyone suggest what might be going on? The photo shows the pickups, which seem to be in the right places.

Thanks, Stephen

2 hours ago, ITG said:

So bottom line of what I’m saying is, whilst you may remember which of just 4 points are which, when you get to maybe wiring up all 18, it becomes more of a memory test if relying only on a numbered system. Of course, you could just have a paper track diagram stuck to the wall, with numbered points as a reminder and still use a simple numbering system via your DCC system. In summary, it’s not just how the system works, but also how you as a human being interface with it.

Fair points, thank you @ITG. I was thinking that with 4 only, it may not be too difficult. My (very rudimentary, and possibly erroneous) understanding, so far, is that the Hornby controller (or maybe the accessories controller) starts the points addresses at 61 - I think!!

14 minutes ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

Operating 18 points at remote locations from your fixed operating position (the Select and Elite both being console based systems) will require lots of wires to and from the point motors.

Solenoids require a separate CDU and power supply and all that wiring back to a control position, etc, etc, etc.

 

Consider simplifying everything by using a separate DCC point control set up.

 

For example.... (Note: instead of the ready made switch panel featured, a mimic type control panel, a bank of switches or mini point levers can be used instead.

 

 

 

 

Alternative solutions, including using solenoids.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

Thanks for the videos, I've had a look and I'm definitely tempted by the 'sniffer' set up and the fancy control box. Although you (I assume that's you in the video) explained the set-up to the complete stranger asking you totally random questions, very well; I'll still need another 10 views and bit of additional research before it makes any real sense to me. :)

4 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

Lets start with what you want before working out how to do it.

 

You have a choice.  You can use DCC to work points, or you can use conventional electrics. 

With conventional wiring a CDU isn't actually required but they do tend to help reliability, and they are only appropriate for point motors that are solenoid types (eg not for Tortoise and similar slow-motion types)

 

You need to buy accessory decoders if you are using DCC, but switches/CDUs etc work out cheaper.  From an operator's point of view, using switches on a control panel is more intuitive and can be easier than trying to do everything on the same DCC controller which you also to drive the trains ... with many DCC systems you need to remember which point numbers and function keys to use, and entering the command to change a point can take longer than just flicking a switch. 

 

On the other hand if you are not always in one place when operating, a fixed control panel can prove inconvenient when you are the other end of the layout using a secondary controller or perhaps a handheld "walkabout" type controller to drive trains.

 

DCC is just about the only sensible way to go if you want to use a computer program to drive your trains - but of course many people don't want to do that.

(Copied from my post above) What I'd like to do is work the points via the controller (even if I need to buy the Elite) from the controller position. I think I'd like to go the way of using an accessory decoder, as I'm not so practical and it seems (maybe only seems) like less of an installation hassle.

I don't want to use a computer program to drive the trains, mainly because my laptop died and my PC (with a 32" monitor) is not in the train room. So, I'm now thinking that controlling the points via an accessory decoder is the way to go. I just don't yet know how to get there.

1 hour ago, RobinofLoxley said:

I get the sentiments. So the switches need to be placed near the controller/command station. You have to cable from the point motors to the switches and from the switches to the power source. If you use accessory decoders that can be addressed by the command station those switches will be virtual.

Thanks again Robin, that's very practical advice to get me started. :)

16 hours ago, RobinofLoxley said:

I cant advise about the Select but I would expect you can run an accessory decoder (instead of a CDU) from the Select, with the choice of accessory decoder being determined by what you choose for point motors. You can see this for example on DCC Concepts website, where they offer different accessory decoders for different styles of point motors. 

I have no doubt that it can be useful to learn the ins-and-outs of how stuff works and lots of abbreviations and jargon to go with it. After all, I spent 30 years in a profession where people would die if 'Haloperidol I.M. Stat' was confused for 'Haloperidol I.V. TDS' (for example). But, at this stage of my semi-retired life, I really just need to use 'free floating attention' (more jargon) to bypass the technical minutiae and get the job sorted.

What I'd like to do is work the points via the controller (even if I need to buy the Elite) from the controller position. I considered manual points but this failed for two reasons: 1) I ordered some from a guy in the US and they never arrived and 2) By the time I walk around the layout and change the points, it's often too late!