juke

The first shot really demonstrates how close-coupled your locos are, looks really good.

I have a Hornby A4 won't even go round one of my curves that every other loco does, still working at finding the problem... So dreams of close coupling are on hold<G>

Pic 3 is an excellent, simple solution, draws no attention to itself.

Syd

Is the black coach in #12271 an engineer's coach? I really like it, is it a kit?

Syd

The app currently on sale is fine, works very well. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again if I needed to.

One thing we're not getting is any replies to requests for help but other users can usually answer queries.

It was in danger of being lost a while back, until these new guys took it over so I'd buy it now in case it disappears again!

Syd

That right hand track, that creeps under the bridge close to the right hand abutment - does it just stop?

 

Chaz

It's the Ghost Train's track, doesn't stop, just can't be seen........<G>

Syd

Much too heavy at the front end though. The loco, that is.

Do you mean the model or the real thing? I just bought a Hornby one after seeing yours so as yet I know nothing about them<G>

Syd

Re #12097, 12099, that's what really makes this layout so effective - the illusion of length and depth in the photos

 

I agree but also I have been looking at pics of model railways for VERY many years and Gilbert's shots are the first where I became aware of the length of the boilers on locos!

Somehow they are not so well captured elsewhere.

Syd

  The addition of some Klear as applied by Tim also gets rid of the peculiar shade of green that Hornby use, which is about the only thing IMO that lets the model down. Apologies for forgetting to confirm that * on those formations I sent you does indeed indicate a MK1 coach.

Is it just a coat of Klear, or some other work first?

Looks great!

"I've said many times, IMO it is the figures that destroy any illusion of reality most of the time."

I hadn't thought about that before, but you're right, suspends reality more effectively.

Syd

I really enjoy your daily updates!

Who makes your figures, they look really well.

Syd

Having another exploration of what this app can do, I set up my ip Cobalt points, setting each one to use feedback.

When I go back to check the feedback the slider is off.

Am I doing something wrong?

Ah! I see what to do now, that's great, thanks Jim.

The two pages of instructions I found online didn't mention any of these functions.

I later found the proper instruction pages!

Syd

That was it, it's showing OK now. Works fine on the iPad too.

It's the full version, I've had it about 6 months now and it's great. Only discovered recently that I didn't need a laptop to make it work

I bought an extra copy today for my wife's phone, got it from the App Store no problem. The pic of the first screen on the App store shows a light, speaker symbol, steam loco wheels etc, 8 more symbols than my iPhone's cab, points, signals and options.

Weirdly I tried finding it on my iPad just now and it come up 'no results'. Went and searched using the iPhone and it's still there in the App store!

The App store shows more functions on the first screen than I see on my iPhone or iPad, are these ECoS features?

I have Lenz gear.

Thanks

Just got word from Warren that I can expect my newly weathered 24 in the post tomorrow!

I'm gobsmacked at the realism in Warren's work.

It took a bit of courage-building before sending such a show case little loco off for ageing but it has certainly paid off!

Suzie, Kadee leaflet 012408 says on P2 in the first paragraph below the Fig 2 box "The uncoupler should extend above the rails by exactly 1/64" (0.4mm)" This is the white leaflet packed with the uncoupler.

I'm using Peco FS Code 75 and the #322 sits exactly between the chairs. I've carefully checked with a torch and the magnet is securely glued flat on the sleepers. The little recess down each side of the bottom of the magnet might actually help this. I just made sure that the two ends were not above sleepers. It really looks as if it was designed exactly for this piece of track.

Dungrange, as I said my couplers 'just' foul the shimmed magnet, as I just used an umeasured thin piece of card. I put the gauge on both magnets just now and the little indicator dowel looks to be recessed about .1mm on the unshimmed and the using the same test on the shimmed one, the dowel is above the top of the gauge by a very slightly larger amount.

As I said in my first post both positions work the mechanism correctly in each of the functions. The raised one gives me the impression that it swings to the side a little quicker but I've checked and with both magnets the coupler has fully swung to the left. Both vehicles' couplers are exactly right for height per the gauge. So I intend to reduce the thickness of the shim by a tiny amount and standardise on that.

I also just measured the sleeper thickness with a digital caliper, it's 1.86mm.

Code 75 rail is not high enough to allow the Kaydee permanent magnets to sit on top of the sleepers - they have to be cut away so it can be recessed (83 - 75) thingys

I'm fairly new to using Kadees. I read the instructions on the #322 packet and with too little thought cut out the sleepers and began packing up with thin card for test purposes. Then I had a rethink, aren't 83 and 75 thousands of an inch? I'm guessing but I think that's right.

So a difference of 8 thou or .2mm. AND the sleepers shouldn't be cut, in fact a shim is needed to get the #322 to the .4mm above the rail as per Kadee leaflet.

Actually just had a thought, if code 83 is 8 thou taller then the 322 would need even more of a shim for 83 track, must be getting too late for thinking. But the test below works anyway.

I have just glued one #322 at rail level, ie glued straight on, no shim and one shimmed with a thin card and both work fine. In fact the shimmed one is rubbing some of my couplers a little but easily adjusted with the Kadee pliers.