Richard Lee

Must admit that I would prefer to have the gated-stock before the O2 (I have both on pre-order in Southern Maunsell Green). Concerning liveries, I think that in general, the earlier they are the nicer they are. I like the older locomotives; I think the Southern's use of old locomotives for branch-line work may have been one reason that I decided to model SR branch-lines. If I could, I would have modeled LSWR and LBSCR branch line services. The trouble is that there are not many suitable ready-to-run coaches. For my LBSC liveried Terriers I had to cobble together some resin kit 4-wheel coaches.

I ordered a few small bits and pieces from Kernow (trying out Kadees on my smaller layout) on Sunday 2nd November. Today, (Thursday 6th) I popped into the (Northern Bulgarian) village post office and the parcel was waiting for me. When I got home, all was present, correct, and well packed.

I am 90% sure that the Hayling Island station had two 3-way asymmetrical sets of points (like the Peco Code 75 ones). You can see for yourself: http://www.haylingbilly50.co.uk/node/489 I don't believe that the station layout changed too much (except for the loco shed becoming a bay platform) until it closed. Can't think of any examples like the Code 100 s-way points I am afraid.

I would be very interested to hear how you get on. I am considering some of their LBSC stuff in 4mm, for a fictitious branch line terminus.

To be honest, when I get mine I think that I will be looking to close-couple them. I don't really like tension lock couplings anyway. I have a feeling that one of the projects for later this year or perhaps next year is to consider alternatives.

Thank you for that information. "Southern Counties Branch Line Steam" by Michael Welch, ISBN978-1-85414-359-4, has a couple of colour pictures that include the prototype in that livery on an excursion on the Cuckoo Line, in 1962. I was curious about about it.

The stripey member of my household used to love to watch model trains and attack them when she was a kitten. She doesn't bother now, though. Her brother used to be a big pest when I stored the old shelf layout in my bedroom. He used to jump up and cause damage to get me out of bed so that I would let him out.

Could be. When I laid some and ran trains over them, it seemed to me that the check-rails were too far apart. They can't be adjusted because you slot the rail into the chairs molded onto the timbers. It may be that the Terriers have slightly courser wheels than the M7s, which could be why the Terriers loved them but M7s didn't. One thing that I might try if I get trouble when I get around to doing the side project would be to stick some thin material on the insides of the check rails. I have read about people using phosphor-bronze strip or thin plasti-card for that kind of job. Like Micky, I actually prefer the look of the SMP kit points. My intention was to use wire in the tube, which does work with the kits. (Because the Marcway points are stiffer and need more force to operate, I couldn't get wire in the tube to work with the Marcway points.) Although I had used the Mercontrol levers, I was going to try using little switches with omega loops attached so that I could switch the frogs with the same action as setting the points.

It is a little bit difficult to measure now that they are ballasted, but they do seem to be 3.5mm.

Here is a picture with Marcway 36" at the top, with a (badly made) SMP plastic based kit below: For my layout, something like 36" radius points is about right. Have a feeling that having to use much larger points would tend to make things more difficult for me, and would be a reason not to choose them. If I bought Marcway again, then I would consider using the 48" radius ones, but would have to think a lot before I went 60". The big scenic curve goes down to 30" in the middle, so I didn't see a lot of point in going for much larger radius points. The SMP kits gave trouble with my Hornby M7s, and several of the wagons. The Terriers seemed to like them, though. I kept them, and might use them for a little side project involving an LBSC branch line which is restricted because of a wooden bridge to the mainland.

For potential sales to me, the firm that you are competing with is Marcway. If the price got up to that of equivalent Marcway points I would need clear advantages to chose the new points over Marcways.

The main competitors for points to use with SMP, C&L or Exactoscale flexi-track are likely to be Peco Code 75, and the smaller radius Marcway points. It is unlikely that Peco can be beaten on cost, although if the product is better, some people would be prepared to pay a bit more. There is a lot of information available about wiring Peco in the preferred manner, so I think any new competitor would be wise to make it simple to wire-up their product to DCC standards. Marcway look extremely good, in my opinion, although some people are worried by the lack of chairs. There are other issues with using a copper-clad construction. I get the impression that they are not intended for novice modellers. On the whole I am happy with them, but, because I am on a limited budget, I cut the number of points to 8 when I planned my layout.

Although, as you say, you are are not making P4 track now, I am very pleased for you that Scalefour News gives you a lot of pleasure. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79430-scalefour-news-185/&do=findComment&comment=1250933

My OO gauge 36" Marcway points look good to me, but seem to take up significantly more space than Peco Streamline medium or the SMP based plastic kits. They are fairly stiff compared to some other points, and I found it impossible to operate them with wire in a tube. (Maybe someone else has been skilled enough to implement wire in a tube with them.) As Clive said, you need a self-latching point motor, or manual lever. As supplied, they rely upon the switch blades to change polarity, which works reasonably well if you clean the relevant bits with a glass-fibre pen; however, DCC using people might want to modify them to implement some kind of switching mechanism.

That is possible; however, an alternative view is that that ready to lay OO track might wet appetites for better track and encourage some people to have a go at making their own. I notice that some people who make track and encourage others to make their own have been helpful and supportive.

Have received the message. I am very grateful. Have thanked you in reply, but echo my thanks here.

Thank you for that advice. I would love to see an expert demonstate white metal soldering; it is a skill that I would love to aquire. However, I am an expatriate, and only visit Britain once or twice per year.

May I please ask for a spot of help? I could do with some OO LBSC 1900ish transfers for some 4-wheel coach kits that I am doing as a side project. Does anyone know where I can get hold of some? Obviously, correct for the 1870 to 1903 livery would be ideal, but ‘near enough’ might do for me. The coach kits are from Smallbrook Studios: http://www.smallbrookstudio.co.uk/#/products-new/4569521214/LBSCR-Four-Coach-Set-of-4-Wheel-Stroudley-Coaches/3738609 I managed to get hold of some car spray paint that looks about the right shade for mahogany. I am sure that there were changes to the coaches between 1900 and the 1930s, but I thought that they might be a better match for my Hornby LBSC liveried terrier ‘Fulham’ than the Ratio GWR 4-wheelers. I strongly suspect that they would more likely appear in rakes of 5 rather than 4 during LBSC days. Thank you in advance.

This thread pushed me to ordering some, and some low-melt solder. Up to now I have glued white-metal kits of horse-drawn vehicles, but I might try soldering the next one. If that, and the resin 4-wheel coach kits that I am doing arn't too bad, I might think about doing a proper, rolling-stock or locomotive white-metal kit some time.

I chose SMP with Marcway 36" points for my 'L' shaped layout. As it happens, bullhead was ideal for the bucolic, early 1930s branch line. However, if there had been ready to run flat-bottomed track with OO sleepers that was significantly cheaper, then I must admit that I would have been very tempted to use it. By the time the rails sides are painted rust colour and the track ballasted, then the difference between bullhead with chairs and flatbottomed rail would not be as noticable as some of the other blemishes and compromises on my layout. Very few people would disagree that hand-made custom-built track (depending upon how well it is made) would eclipse any pre-manufactured track. However, for the rest of us who are not yet ready to make their own track, a new range would just have to be better looking than Peco code 75, with comparible running qualities to be in the picture. The sleeper and point timber sizes and spaces is very noticable, in my opinion.

Langley Miniature Models do liquid flux for low-melting point solder (3rd item on page of link). Have no idea if it is good stuff or good value for money. http://www.langley-models.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Solder__Glue___Fillers_100.html

Regarding flexitrack, SMP, C&L and Exactoscale (now owned by C&L) all do proper OO track in code 75 bullhead rail. Expect it to be about a pound or two more per yard than Peco code 75. Points are a bit more problematic. You can get kits (for instance C&L) to help you make them yourself. You can buy ready-made hand-made points from firms such as Marcway, who own and distribute SMP track. Alternatively, some people compromise and use Peco code 75 points with proper OO flexitrack. C&L and SMP have lower sleepers than Peco, but I understand that Exactoscale OO track uses similar height sleepers to Peco. I have not tried using Peco points with proper OO flexitrack, so you will have to seek other opinions on the practicalities of using Peco points with SMP, C&L or Exactoscale track. EDIT: By the way, there have been some reasonably lengthy discussions on RMWeb about this issue. If you are interested, you could do a search.

I notice that Hattons have a couple of sets of the coaches from the Imperial Airways pack for not very much more than the cost of that one coach.

I decided to retire early, and couldn't afford to stay within the UK without working.

Thanks. I take your point (excuse the pun). If I already have something to run my trains on, then my second layout is not urgent. If I were still living in Sheffield I would pop down to Marcway and purchase a couple of kits, and whatever tools they suggest I need. The problem that I face is that I live in Bulgaria, so that if I find I need something unexpectedly then I would face international postage charges plus over a week's postal delay. If I try to buy enough stuff to do all the points and then find I can't, then I am left with a load of expensive white elephants. I will consider it further, though. Thanks, Jeff, your post (and previous information gleaned from this thread) have been extremely useful. The point-work and track looks very good indeed. The whole project looks extremely impressive, and far more ambitious than anything that I am considering.