MarshLane

Hi John, Superb progress! Love the progress with the track work, those smooth curves look lovely. Cannot wait to see trains meandering around them! Well done. Rich

Ah! Yes, good point. No Im definitely not going down the S7 route Thanks for the advice, yes thats a valid point and a superb graphic from Templot to show it. Thanks Rich

Sorry for hijacking the post Jinty! Its a Super Empire Builder Xtra with a DB150 base and DT402 handset. Really easy to use, and great control - also like that you have two dials so that two separate locos can be controlled at once. Rich

Hi Paul, Ok, I've finished playing with the Kings Cross plan, its attached to this email as a Templot BOX file, but I've put a graphic Sketchbaord on here as well: Its not perfect, and if you decide to use it, it will need some work, specifically on the double slips, and three way point, and some of the yard tracks will need minor adjustments - but it might give you some ideas. That plan is 18' long by 3.5' wide - again, its not an exact copy, so I think by tightening some of the spaces between points up etc and getting the correct lengths, you would get it down to certainly 16', possibly 15'. To give you an idea - the road that has the fueling/servicing shed on nearest the running lines, would accommodate two Class 40s with room to spare, while you could get another 40 in the shortest 'loop', third from the bottom. The headshunt is also 560mm long - so about 50mm longer than a 40. Im using 40s, purely because they are the longest O gauge loco you'll encounter. Now in searching around to try and find some lengths and the link, I also came across a thread on another forum (click here) which is all about it, but that includes a photo, which may just seal it for you - as it gives you the slight raised sidings that you wanted! http://railphotoprints.uk/p573218589/h3525715B Also this one off Flickr, seen from York Road platform: https://www.flickr.com/photos/63924222@N06/8124333047/ And this one shows the grade between the lines: http://s176.photobucket.com/user/robertcwp/media/KX_4-68s.jpg Hope that helps! Rich Kings Cross Bottom Shed.box

I did look at the Ambis tie bars, but several people on here recommended the JLTRT ones instead, and I have to say they were easy to put together, bit of a g*t to solder onto the blades, but thats me not being used to things I think ... got three to do later this week! Im modelling 0-MF, which (if I remember right) is 31.5mm and I think 7FS, but I'm not totally sure to be honest. Rich

Nooooo! Don't go shooting yourself! Think of the paperwork somebody will have to fill in Seriously, DCC shouldn't be complicated or nerve-racking. Im a Digitrax guy myself, so any questions about the specifics of the Lenz handsets/systems should perhaps be directed to Jinty and Simon, but anything DCC in general - feel free to shout, I've done quite a bit with it! Even have the DCC system working block bells on a test rig! But happy to help anyone if I can. Rich

Hi John, The one thing I've learnt, is never be afraid to ask questions, somebody will always answer them! So go for it! I presume you mean the gap when its not against the rail? To be honest, I'm not sure, although on mine I purchased the tie bars from JLTRT, and on those, once the gap between the blade and the rail is around the same as between the stock rail and the check rail - about 1.5-2mm. Rich

EDIT: Completely missed a page of posts so my previous post is not applicable!!! Great news on the development Steve - and good luck with the three models for next year, slow down a bit though, your costing us all too much money . Hope the 0-6-0 is an Eastern Region, and not one of the 'Go When Ready' locos Rich

CME, I've now been able to work out a way in which I can do Bristol in January - and thanks to this comment from your goodself I gather John Shaw is there with this Wintereley Yard (might have got the name wrong) layout, presumably using his couplings - and an ideal opportunity to chat. Hi Colin, Are you going to be at Bristol? I'll try and say hello and have look at the couplings. Rich

Very nice mate - on both counts! Can't wait to see the weathering on that - Although are you going the opposite way to me on Talyllyn Junction? . As for the mega something board ... Megapoints? They are superb and used by JF for semaphores as Im sure you already know! Dead easy to set up too, all of my points and signals will be using them. Rich EDIT: PS - not sure if I said or not, but superbly well done with the 08 and the CargoWaggons ... looks great.

"Still in the Box" he says ... you know western technology created one of the hugely complicated things .. oh now what are they called .. ermm... oh yes, printers! They allow you to put writing and pictures on labels ... many boxes come with them - the hint being it shows you what is IN THE BLOODY BOX!!! Ah I've guessed it - its a fresh air converter for the Alfra Romeo ... either that or a Flintstones version that operates on shoe leather Rich

Oh come on Jinty, you cannot leave us hanging like that ... I mean in the North East there's loads of things you could have come away with - some might even have been model railway related! Rich

As far as I'm aware, there is only a set in the curved rail. Basically when the blades are set for the straight ahead route, the curved rail set allows the blade the nestle up and keep the straight line. When set for the curved road, then the thinning of the blade ends, allows the same to happen on the curve, so the set isn't needed on the straight rail. Rich

As people may have guessed from the above posts, I've finished the pointwork off today. Just a few missing chairs to add, soldering wires etc.. to do. This has been a huge learning experience, but I'm heading into the next point with a lot more knowledge. Only two more to do, and thats all the point work for Marsh Lane Depot. I've also done a little bit of work on Marsh Lane shed building. The roof has now been temporarily fitted and the internal roof rafters added. Next task with the shed, is to cover the roof with slates. Im thinking that the slate roof printed sheets from Kirtley Model Buildings might be an option? All thoughts welcome however. The barge boards and soffits also need fitting to the ends/sides of the roof to stop light bleed. Thats all for today! Rich

Hi John, These are not as clear as I had hoped they might be, but should give you an idea. Somebody (apologies to the guy concerned, I cannot remember who now!) on rmWeb suggested doing the rail bends this way, and I have to say I found it very easy, but there's no sure fire way of getting it right first time every time. However, mark up the piece of rail that you want to bend, whether its wing rails or check rails, position it on the template, and I use a black whiteboard marker (as it rubs off) to mark where the 'kink' should come. Then position the rail on its side - remember to check that its the right way up before marking, I learnt my lesson with that one! Remember that when you tap/hit/clout (delete as applicable!) the rail will bend towards you. Then position it between two off cuts of rail again, both on their sides, with your mark roughly centre between the two rails. The wider the gap between the, the shallower the angle. Then use a screwdriver with a blade (i.e. not a Philips) and position it on the mark you've made. Once your happy gently hit it. I generally just let a hammer fall under its own weight onto the screw driver and repeat as necessary. You should then end up with a 'bent' rail. If you've gone to hard, just gently bend it back again, not hard enough - another tap required! Then repeat the whole thing for any other bends that you need. Somebody may have a better more precise way (if so, please tell me!) but thats the way I do it, then after each tap refer back to the template and see how it looks to your eye. As for the set query. Im flying a bit blind, and Minty Jinty or one of the other longer serving tracklayers might be able to answer better, but to me, the set appears to go hand-in-hand with the blade of the point where its filed down: Admittedly on the example above, I've not got the blade filed correctly, as it filed too short - but I only realised this about 20 minutes ago! I think once the tie-blades are on, this will be ok, as its only access to a single engineers siding! But you can see the set above. My understanding is that the set should start where the blade starts (at the bottom) and finishes, where the running rail and the blade part company. As for putting the set in, I've been following the same procedure as adding the 'kinks' to check rails - just tap very gently! Hope that helps. Any queries, shout! Rich

Hi Martyn, I think I've checked with the gauges on a couple of the check rails, but not all I'll do that. The shims I'm still waiting on - but have come up with an idea for creating a 'vee' jig (anyone know where I can find out the actual angle of the different sizes?) - but in the mean time I think I've come up with a way of making a suitable shim that will work short-term. As for the DCC ... Yes I can guess! Rich

Martyn, It certainly is! Cannot wait to run a loco over it! Good point about speaking to C&L before hand, I'll make sure I do that. Thanks. As for the check rail, yes your partly right - I think part of it is the telephoto nature of the camera lens as its not as far away as it looks, but it could be closer. Which chairs do you use for sitting your check rails on? No critisim inferred at all, I welcome comments and feedback, it's how we all improve, so thanks for taking the time to mention it. I knew there was something I forgot to do, that was the rail cuts. Must make sure I do those in the future - meantime it will be out with the Dremel. I have also noticed that I need to learn a bit more about sleeper pushing in Templot, as I'm not sure I've got it right on this one. I think the sleepers around the check rails etc, are not quite right. Time for more photos ... I keep taking pictures of track work whenever I travel by train these days! Cheers Rich

Hi Brian, Oh the modern image will stay, that is going to be the purpose for Marsh Lane, and I'm hoping to sort the Light Rail vehicles out after Christmas. Plans are all drawn. Been over them several times, bogies sorted, DCC sorted and motors sorted! I've always enjoyed the 1950s/60s period, there is far more variety in rolling stock, more variety in loco types, more variety in the different goods trains, but I swayed towards the 1980s because of the availability and cost of locos. Couldn't afford things previously, and when I started RTR O Gauge was the Bachmann 08 and Heljan 37, and nothing else. I thought well I can't afford to have kits built and don't have the skill to build them myself, so go for what you can do - and I knew I wanted to be O gauge. Now I'm a bit older, bit more money to spend, the RTR market is changing, I'm proving to myself that I can build kits - admittedly plastic ones, but I think the recent comments about Connseiour brass kits has made me think I could try one. So doing what I've always wanted to do is becoming viable. The big turning point was the Hattons A3 and A4 announcement. Also I've acquired the two green 47s and the green 37, with the intention of repainting them, but the weathering on one is just so nice I can't do it! They do look good around the A2 as well lol! Plus I have an interest in trams (although typical for me I come into things late, just when the 7mm tram modelling scene is declining!) and the 1950s, with a slight stretch of timelines, allows both to feature on the layout. So it all seemed to make sense - but the blue stuff will stay! It's not going anywhere! A couple of locos might get sold over the next 12 months, but nothing much! Marsh Lane will stay in the 1980s! Thanks Lee. To be honest it's not as difficult as I thought, and made a lot easier thanks to the kind help and advice of the guys on here. I don't think I've got all the different types of chairs right, and think I'm still using too many side chairs, but it's coming - practice makes perfect as they say! Yes I have thought of staining, but the whole thing will get painted and weathered, which pretty much covers the staining so I decided against that. Thanks Andy. Other than the patience of threading chairs on and those "oh bu66er it" moments when you realize they are on the wrong side, I wouldn't think it's much different to copper call to be honest. But many thanks for your very kind words. Rich

Hi John, Thanks! Templot is fantastic and a pig at the same time! Lots to get your head round, but I find its one of those pieces of software that you struggle with, then the penny drops, the fog clears and everything makes sense! My advice is when you do try it, don't give you thinking this is too complicated, keep going - oh and join Martin's Templot club website (it's free!) and anytime you hit a snag post on the beginners page, because somebody, usually Martin will help. As for the set and wing rails,I'll post some pics this afternoon. I'm using the method that somebody told me on here - mark the rail side for the 'kink' be that the wing bend of start/end if the set, the position it over two pieces if off cut rail laid on their side, with your mark center between the two. Use the blade of a screwdriver against the side of the rail and gently tap the screwdriver with a hammer. It's trial and error, sometimes you hit it too hard, other times not hard enough! But I'm finding two gentle taps work well, then check against the template. If it's not enough, go back and tap again! But I'll try and put some step-by-step pics up this afternoon. Rich

Thanks Paul. Well totally had enough of the computer this afternoon, so decided that this evening would be another one spent on the crossover. Not had so much modelling time in one week for ages! But things have moved forward a bit. With the exception of a couple of check rails there is only one point blade left to fit, everything else (track wise) is sorted, so once the remaining blade and the check rails are in, then its add the remaining missing chairs, fit the tie bars, also solder the connections up, then I think this may get sprayed and painted, and possibly ballasted! Seen as its mounted on card, it makes sense to do it ahead of going on the layout. Really pleased with how this has come out, which considering its only my second piece of pointwork I think is an achievement. No loco movements yet, but a wagon freewheels over everything so smoothly, no clicks, derailments, bangs or anything. No wheel drop around the frog either - way better that I thought I could produce! An extra blade and check rail has been done since these pics were taken around 9.30 this evening. Also pleased with the camera on the iPhone 7+ - the quality of the imagery seems to be really good to me. Might be a case of concentrating on the wagon kits over Christmas, because I am going to need some more rail chairs etc, and as Im now hoping to get down to the Bristol show in January, it doesn't make sense to pay postage from C&L! Hope those at Reading have had a good weekend - eager to hear what Steve at Little Loco has come up with for model No. 2! Rich

Thanks CME, That really helped, I will try and speak/email John Shaw and see if he can offer any thoughts of advice. Once idea I have is to fit Winterley's to the freight stock and yard shunter, but keep the locos, a small number of wagons and the passenger stock on Lincs couplings, which do not need to be handed. I'm thinking that could be the way forward. Hi Colin, Thats great thanks - unfortunately I don't think I can make the Bristol event ... a bit too far from the York area on a Sunday by train. Is there a website or anything for the layout? It would have been good to have a chat with you guys about them tho . Might have to try and look at Bristol again! Rich

All looks superb Simon, Nice line up! Rich

Looking good Andy, nice to see the guard is keeping a keen watch out for trespassers on this new railway while looking out for the driver on a propelling move Rich

Hi Brian, Thanks - good luck with your OO gauge ... keep us update through a thread! Im very fortunate with the loft as it has high, wide rafters, so I've a working around of about 21ft x 11ft. I means the curves a little tighter than I would like, but I think all should be ok. Rich

Morning all, Just a quick update - obviously Marsh Lane Depot is progressing, only two more points to build and then its about getting them down on the board, ballasting and running! I've kept mentioning my main layout, so thought it was about time I did a quick update, so nobody is confused. This is the 'BIG' project which is going in the loft, and is moving forward. After much thought and conversation with people, I've decided against the shed for a variety of reasons, the biggest one being about security as I'm really not happy about leaving locos in there overnight, and don't want to be carrying them back and forth to the house. So the new layout is to be called Arksey - its all in the based on the Eastern Region, and I'll develop it as a separate thread on here to keep the two separate, once there is some progress to be seen. Trackplan wise, its quite ambitious being dual level, and certainly isn't going to be a quick boards down, track layed oh we are done! It's a take it forward slowly project that will take a few years to reach fruition, but hopefully will be well worth it! I've also committed the last of my funds to locos for the layout - as it will be a late 1950s/early 1960s period - so joining my existing A2 Pacific, will be a Finescale Brass Britannia, as well as an LNER '04' 2-8-0, and an LNER 'K1', all of which will be in for delivery during 2018, so that gives me time to work on the track work etc. Although the funds have totally dried up now!! I'll make sure a link to the new topic goes in my signature, although it's probably going to be February/March next year before I start it as I want to make sure I can show progress not all hypertheticals! Rich