MarshLane

I've done a bit of work on the next point work tonight - you may remember this is the light rail crossover. Taking onboard the comments from the first point, I've tried to do the 'vee' a bit differently this time, and I think I've got it! I've taken the main line rail and filed it down to a point, so it butts up against the branch rail nice and smoothly. I've then soldered the two together, and blunted the end off. I think that looks a bit neater. Took longer to do, but maybe that was because I was checking back to previous comments so much. Still I'm quiet pleased for an hours work! Rich

Simon, Thanks - yes I've something similar in mind for the coaches when I get to them. I used that LED strip material for the pit lighting in the shed. Jinty, That is superb! Looks really good. I think on the NE van, the lamps are on the side, so a little modification due to their, but that has shown me that its all doable! Defiantly something to play with! Do you have any preference on where to get the fibre optic tube from? Rich

Thats it your hooked! No getting away from it now! Rich

I've been giving a little bit of thought to how I can improve the brake van, and two things have come to me, one a faint interior light to represent a flickering gas light, the other to see if there is someway I can get red lights on the side lamps. Does anyone have any thoughts on the former? Im wondering if I can somehow get a grain of wheat bulb, or more likely some fibre-optic from inside to the lamp. Both would be connected two a two function DCC decover in side the van. Anyone any thoughts ... anyone done this before and have all the answers to the questions Rich

That's the realisation your running big boys toys!!! God doesn't the OO look little and toylike in comparison! Rich

Hi Andy, That lorry is nice, what's the make, if you don't mind me asking? Rich

Both Dapol and Tower have told me that the next version will be out Christmas next year/early 2018. Dapol at Warley told me that with various versions and specials, they expect the 08 to stay in the catalogue for four to five years. Rich

Just a thought with you mentioning Liverpool, but two things spring to mind, although I accept they are more stabling than depots. But the approaches Manchester Piccadilly had a couple of stabling sidings in the middle of the fast and slow lines, which could be something different. There are the sidings just north of Preston, see my thread a couple of pages back for a picture someone kindly posted, or Guide Bridge stabling point after the Woodhead route had finished ... plenty of 40s Rich

Hi Barnaby, While I've been very firmly in the three-link camp for coupling, I am giving some thought to fitting some wagons with autos and I like the Lincs system the best - it seems one of the more unobtrusive designs. How have you got on coupling and uncoupling three links on wagons that are also fitted with the Lincs system? If I've read all this thread right, it is feasible to use both? I also believe the Lincs system has a delayed action to it? Do you have any idea what the minimum radius would be for vehicles fitted with these couplings? Rich

Thanks Jon, Id like to say its another string to my bow, but a 50% completion of one kit, doesn't warrant that saying I don't think! But I've enjoyed it. Thanks for your comments. This could have an impact on the history/background and period of main layout (oh god, I hear myself saying!) which may be to your advantage/disadvantage ... as its definitely going to mean more semaphores, and perhaps additional complications in the number of arms! No further work on the wagon today, due to discovering my 1/32nd and 1mm drills appear to have sprouted legs and walked off somewhere! Waiting on some new ones coming before I can finished the kit off. The comment from my family today on the van was oh goodie, something different to buy you for Christmas!! Rich

Hi Simon, Thanks for your input, I'm struggling to visualise how you do it .. any chance of a picture? Rich

Andy, Many thanks, very kind comments, much appreciated. Rich

Paul I would have had the same response as you, but having done this one, I would now say to anyone have a go! Without a doubt, there is a difference between Etched Brass and Plastic, I've yet to build the courage to tackle the former, but I have a feeling I might yet give it a go one of these days! Hi Jinty, (this thing still wants to call you Minty!)Thanks for the comment, I feel really upbeat finding out that it's not the easiest of the Parkside kits! Or maybe I haven't got to the hard bit yet!!! No criticism taken - you know me, unless anyone pulls it apart without offering advice or a better way of doing things, I welcome all comments and queries. The axle boxes, to be honest, were the only bit so far that has caused me problems. I did them as per the instructions with all three sections glued together with the bearing end, but then found that a) I struggled to get the wheel set in, and b) when it was in, the 'W" irons were pushing outwards and the wagon wasn't free running. So having pondered for a few minutes and though, hang on, the way the three parts form up, there is a side groove in each axle box, so gently praised the back section and bearing holder off the other two parts and married them back up again, through the W Irons. They do still slide up and down (although admittedly I've glued one slightly wrong so it doesn't slide!) but with the wheelset in place, the W irons are not pushing out any longer, and the wheels are free running. That is totally different from how the instructions say. Do you do them a different way? Rich

Don't see anything that needs to be excused! Looks really good to me! I do like that slightly raised area. Rich

No problem, I'll have a go and see what I can come up with. Im sure somebody has look at KX stabling point for a layout, if I can find that, that may give some idea of the proper length. Rich

Very nice build image. Really like the coach on the turntable? An LMS variety? Rich

Well guys, I have to say my modelling skills have been given a huge boost this evening, and I've attempted something else I've never done before! Back at the Gauge O Guild event at Doncaster in July, I purchased a NE 20-ton brake van kit from Parkside Dundas. I've often thought of doing kits but really have steered clear as I wasn't happy I could make a decent job of things. I know I have high standards and become dishearten and disappointed when the outcome doesn't match the quality and detail that was in my mind at the start. Its probably the wrong way of looking at things, but thats me! However, with the whole depot building in my mind at Doncaster I thought, well I'll grab what looks like a reasonable kit and see how I get on. Ok, its plastic and not etched brass or anything, but take things one step at a time. So looking around I acquired the PD LNER 20-ton 'Toad E' goods brake van, with the view that they lasted into BR service, so if it worked it could form the first vehicle of an freight to run behind my A2! The kit (PS113) cost £42 and one of the attractions was that it was a 'one-stop' shop - including wheels and transfers. So for an uninformed idiot like me, that sounded a good move. After back and forth chatting with Paul (pjking on rmWeb) over the past few days, the conversation briefly turned to kits and I remembered the purchase from Doncaster that was still sat sealed in the box on the shelf! Well, tonight I've had the evening to myself with no disturbances or distractions, and I've set to it. Given this is my first kit, I didn't think it was a good idea to do a bit by bit write up, I'm bound to make mistakes and there are likely better ways of doing things, so didn't want to be telling people wrong. However, Im conscious that like Paul and me, there are people out there who feel kits be they wagon, coach or loco are well beyond them, so I've done a batch of photos as I've been building this evening, and hopefully they may be of interest to people. The kit is quite neat when it arrives, although the number of parts do make you think what have I taken on here! However, the instructions from Parkside Dundas are good (in the main) and the schematic drawing helps to put things in perspective. Having followed the instructions and go the internal doors glazed, the brass wire door handles added, and the guards look outs glazed, the body is then brought together. The one problem I found was that the long sides were slightly banana shape, and it took some work to get everything to come square, and in the end, I abandoned my Revell plastic cement in favour of superglue - with just a small dab added at the ends to hold things in place, which seems to have worked well. From here, its then on to the start of the under frame, sorting the axleboxes out, in the end, I did these slightly different from the instructions as I just couldn't see how the method in the instructions could work. However, once these were fitted, and the W irons added to the solebars, which were added to the body, the wheels were then added. Thats brought me to the end of the world for tonight, at 11pm, my eyes were starting to go! So time to go curl up with a DVD and a cup for half and hour and watch archive diesels or one of the superb B&R DVDs from the 1950s/60s! Hope its been a little bit interesting for those of you who, like me have never attempted a wagon kit before, and for those that have, well you can probably pick holes in where I've gone wrong! I think there is about four hours work in this so far, so 8-10 hours to complete a wagon build, bearing in mind its the first one I've ever done, I reckon is quite good Will it be the last kit? Definitely, not! I've really enjoyed putting this together, although I'm only half way through it at the moment. Lots of under frame and wheel detail to add, let along painting and transfer - this may also become the guinea pig for trying out weathering! As for what livery it will be finished in NE or BR, I'm undecided - thinking the latter could end up arriving on Marsh Lane shed, while the former could be a preserved example for a brake van trip on the light rail system behind the industrial 08, or maybe a visiting Peckett for some anniversary! With any luck, a bit more may be done tomorrow afternoon. As alway, comments are welcome. Rich EDIT: Forgot the last two images!

Thanks Brian. Not so sure about eyes closed, lol! But hopefully have a bit more of an idea. Need to try and get the 'set' into this crossover, as the light rail vehicles will be running over a bit faster than locos pottering around the depot! Cheers Andy, thats appreciated! Rich

Paul, If you can give me an idea of the length of each siding, i.e. What you want it to hold, I'll have a go at doing KX in Templit for you. Not a master at all, but enough to get by! Rich

Finally made a little bit of progress on the next point work this afternoon in that all the sleepers are down! This as previously commented is a crossover and catch point for the light rail system that will run on a higher level than the shed. The catch points will not follow the plan totally, hence why the longer sleepers stop short. This was my first attempt at sleeper shoving in Templot, and seems to have worked ok! I've now got the evening to myself so another little project that Paul (pjking) of this parish has spurred me into having a go at. It will either be brilliant, kind of average, or a complete disaster! More later Rich

Just a thought as well ... if you are working things out, look at the plan of Marsh Lane which is on page 12, 13 or 14 of my thread that is all working on an 8' length scenic area. Might give you some thoughts as to what you can get on a 4' board. Just don't get disheartened when you realise you need more space than you thought! Rich

Paul,I'd totally agree with Craig. Obviously Templot (or whatever you use) will give you some flexibility but I say 18" for the average point, 36" for a crossover and 24" for a double/single slip. Also bear in mind that a Class 37 is 18", Class 20 is 14" and class 40 is 20" long although I've added an extra inch to each end to allow plenty of space. Remember also where two stabling roads converge on a point you need a good 6" between the point and the end of the first Loco to allow one to pass on the other road, especially with overhang if the road curves. Rich

In the words of Crabtree from Allo' Allo' .... bigger it Rich

I think its another of those lost in the midst of time queries, but I always understood it to be down the sound made by the engine .... round here they always used to be known as 'pilots' or 350s, namely because they were the yard 'pilot' (shunter). Rich

Haha! Should you ever decide to lose that nice blue 31 - let me know Rich