Black5

A fair bit of work done already Paul and looking good. You said you`ve gone back to building in card . Can I ask what thickness you`ve used as I`m currently having a go at building a back scene and up till now I`ve used plasticard. Will be watching progress with interest. Cheers just now, Jim.

While walking round the local garden centre recently and seeing all these different diffusers on display I wondered when we might get one that smells of steam smoke and hot oil! Extra atmosphere when watching a railway video but not sure how other occupants of the house would take it. Jim.

Hi 34, I`m afraid I seem to spend more time trying to build things than running sessions at the moment. My layout is an end to end mpd so running is pretty light anyway. At the moment i`m trying to find a decoder suitable for a Jamieson kit that is quite heavy and uses a Romford Bulldog motor. All this is going on while I wait for a reply from Hornby regarding my Patriots problems.

Hi Terry, thanks for your suggestions. I have a Bachman split chassis parallel boilered Scot which I think must have been ex Mainline and after fitting a decoder and making tender pickups is one of my better runners. Mostly I think due to the weight and a certain amount of play in the running gear giving good wheel to rail contact. I certainly would have a go at another one.Rather than bypass the older models, with a bit of work you can have a pretty reasonable model. Cheers just now, Jim.

Thanks to everyone who`s answered my query. After contacting Hornby, I had an e-mail suggesting I returned the loco for them to have a look at and that is where things are at the moment. I await their suggestion. One problem I find with the more up to date models is the high risk of breaking small fittings when trying to remove stubborn parts.It`s nice to have all this detail but when fingers are not so nimble, as in my case, it can lead to other problems. Trustytrev, I too have a Comet chassis that`s going under a Mainline Scot but at the moment is being delayed due to ongoing work on the layout. Oh to have more than one pair of hands! Cheers just now, Jim.

Hi Ray, thank you for your reply. Brit70053 had pointed that list out to me and I duly had a look at it. I`ve since managed to finally remove the body and i`ve not seen any thing drastic on the chassis which suggests a degrading of the metal but I haven`t managed to get into the drive system so i`ve e-mailed Hornby for advice. Hopefully they can help but it all looks a very solid fit around there. Meanwhile , thanks for your help and i`ll see what happens if Hornby reply. Cheers just now, Jim.

Hi John, many thanks for your reply. I haven`t had another try at separating body and chassis yet, might try again tomorrow. I take on board all your comments and it`ll be extra porridge and try till something gives and then see what`s left! Many thanks for your help. Cheers just now, Jim.

I have a Hornby Rebuilt Patriot loco that I have need to remove the body on owing to a loss of drive between motor and gear on the centre driver. My problem is I have been unable to get the body off the chassis as it is such a tight fit. Is there a difference in location due to this being a DCC fitted loco as apposed to the other one I have which is only DCC ready. Iv`e removed all relevant screws as instructed in their servicing sheet and I can get the front end to pull down but it still wont budge when I try to pull the chassis forward. If I pull any harder something will break. I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem or have I simply missed a hidden screw or maybe there`s a problem due to the fitting of the decoder. Many thanks, Cheers just now, Jim.

Your cottages are a work of art. Superb modelling to achieve such a realistic result. Will continue watching your efforts with interest.

Thanks for the info regarding the figures. Sorry not to have replied earlier but i`ve been away and only just got to look at your blog again. Many thanks. Jim.

Nice work. Could I ask where the loco crew came from? they`re very realistic. Look forward to seeing more pictures when time allows.

Some very nice construction going on there. You`ve set yourself a high standard and that`s a great collection of buildings.Looking forward to seeing how it progresses. Great work. Jim.

Very nice layout and a great back scene. I have to agree about the blog section not being perhaps the first sight to visit, but maybe it could be that progress on a layout might not be as quick as we`d like, therefore it`s a while before there`s something new to show, ( certainly in my case ). Myself, I go to the blogs first and then other sights depending on what i`m trying to find out or require help with. So long as we enjoy the hobby. Cheers just now, Jim.

Each time you post a picture it gets even more realistic. I have a back scene to paint as well and seeing what you`ve done shows what can be achieved. Really nice work.

Hi Iain, Good to see things are progressing with you.Your scratch build is going to be an interesting one to follow. When I scratch built my Duchess, the most frustrating part for me was trying to hold the smallest piece being made between thumb and finger while it was being filed to it`s required shape, so best of luck with that. Cheers just now, Jim.

A very nice piece of work. Great shot looking through the bridge, very realistic.

Hi Paddy, that`s a nice layout you have there. Your attempt at atmospheric pictures looks fine to me. My layout is at a similar stage, trying to make buildings and generally putting more bits and pieces around the site to give it more detail. You`ve certainly managed a lot of detail in yours.

Definitely worth writing all that down and I bet most of us who read it sat there thinking we`ve been there as well. Totally agree with Rosspop regarding building your own track and points etc., once you get the experience I think you get hooked. I admire your ability to build two layouts at the same time. Mine`s taken an age and there`s lots more to do yet, I don`t think I could manage two at once! As you say, onwards and upwards and best of luck with it. Cheers just now, Jim.

Hi Paddy, sorry not to answer sooner but I`ve only just got back on the computer. Thank you for your kind comments. The puddles were created using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. It really needs using around this time of the year as it cures better above 50deg F. All the instructions for using it are on the bottle. I find adding puddles adds just a wee bit more to the overall effect. Apologies again for not answering sooner. Although I`ve used this forum for a while now I`m never really sure if I `m in the right place when answering people. I shall watch your progress with interest. Cheers just now, Jim.

Definitely agree with idea of upgrading older models if they are up to it. Currently putting a Comet chassis under a Mainline Rebuilt Scot and have just finished putting a decoder into a split chassis parallel boiler and fitting tender pickups. Not the most difficult jobs i know , but a challenge for the first attempt and very satisfying when you find it all works. A way of increasing loco stock at a reasonable cost. Some nice work on your chassis build.

That`s some nice modelling. I know the feeling when you can`t always put things where they really should be on a layout, very frustrating.

Thanks for that Mike. That looks a useful place to try.

Thanks Don, that was going to be one of my stops. Whether you can get fine chain that would suit 4mm I don`t know. Another place may be in the boat modelling world. Jim.

I arrived at a point on the layout where I needed water columns, eight of them. Not being able to find anything suitable on the market the only thing to do was to have a go at making them myself. Not having drawings at all I used pictures in books and magazines for reference regarding the height and length of overarm etc. The problem there is that the pictures can`t show you everything. They were all built in plasticard using tube for the columns, rod for the overarm and microstrip for the flanges. To put the bends in the overarm, i made a small jig to hold the straight section and using a hairdryer to warm the plastic, I bent the rod round the jig , going past the ninety degree to allow for spring back. It`s a case of trial and error in getting the bend right but the result wasn`t too bad and looked something like it should. Various other bits of plasticard were added to represent what i think are counter weights ( but not sure ) at the right hand upper end of the overarm and also what I think is the water control valve at the base of the column. To fix them to the baseboard I cut a suitable size rectangle in the surface and glued a piece of plasticard in it to represent a concrete base that the column would have been bolted to. The plasticard base has a piece of brass tube through it which takes the brass rod that`s fixed to the column base making it a plug in and removable when required. Some pictures showed an overarm support ( a cable may be,with a turnbuckle in it I think ) on top but other pictures didn`t so i `m undecided on that. i`ve not made the water bags yet but might try cutting up an old handkerchief and gluing that together to see what it looks like and as for the chain, I`ll keep looking, It`ll have to be very fine. At the moment I`m making good the areas around the bases . Once that`s done and i don`t think i can go any further they`ll be painted. None of this would have happened without plasticard, great stuff to work with. Hopefully a couple of pictures attached, Cheers just now, Jim.

A great piece of work. Extremely realistic and an inspiration to the rest of us struggling with scenery. You can almost hear a church bell in the distance! Cheers just now, Jim.