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ROSSPOP

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  1. ROSSPOP
    I `m a great fan of Tamiya modelling products especially their masking tapes and masking rolls with attached plastic sheet.
     

     
    Having trolled the website it seems that in LMS days the driving ends were painted maroon but when repainted in BR livery they were mostly black. Rightly or wrongly I`ve opted for black ends.
     
    Partitions and seating are done..........................
     

     
    I`m never sure what the colour scheme should be.
     
     

    I`ve used HMRS LMS coach lining and after some struggle one side is complete....
  2. ROSSPOP
    Having been back up in my attic rummaging around I found the very first RTR loco I purchased from Bachmann in 1999.
     
    According to a few RMWeb threads , this particular early example 31813 could be a victim to `Mazak Hypotrophia` I prefer that to `cancer`............
     
    ...............................................rather like this example on Ebay................................................................
     
     
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-OO-GAUGE-32-152-N-CLASS-BR-BLACK-EARLY-2-6-0-LOCOMOTIVE-31813/201436800836?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33834%26meid%3Dcecf8f40ed64425bbf020e4710eee1af%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D201436800836
     
     
    Or should I assume that after this amount of time my loco is safe ??????????
     
     
     
    I do hope so as she is a particular favourite being the first RTR I ever converted to P4 and now I wish to upgrade further............
     

  3. ROSSPOP
    I`m actually heavy into O Guage since retiring, but I need a break from my 7mm Diorama layout, which has fully occupied my time this year, having made baseboards, track, laid track, wired track, and finally tested track.......
     
    I have kept a selection of my 4mm modified and kit built stock and it was while I was `stocktaking` I came across a 4mm project I put to one side in 2005 having built it the year before.......
     
    She`s not `state of the art` and there are a few errors and compromises to be looked at but I`m thinking seriously about spending a little more time on her.......
     

     
    She is based on a Craftsman models kit with a different chassis assembly and even has Ultrascale wheels. I `improved` the buffer beams by using Cavendish MR sprung buffers and various vac piping to produce a push pull variant.......
     

     
    I used a variety of parts from the bits and bobs box to replace dome and chimney and added the obligatory lamp irons. I can`t find the photo I worked from but she is based on 58051 that was based at Leicester and finally Highbidge.
     

     
    Anyway.... after a decade I think she has a quaint charm about her and am considering working on her again......
     
     
     
     

     
    The lining as a bit poor and she has those wonky shaped cast whitemetal splashers,but with weathering etc and a bit of detailing inside the cab...... i think she might be worth saving.....
     
    What do you think ????????
  4. ROSSPOP
    I changed my mind about using Alan Gibson`s backhead castings as the motor I have used slightly encroaches onto the bottom of the backhead space, so I decided to fabricate my own half backhead that will be seen through the cab side.
     
     
     

     
    It sort of looks LMS`ish.......
     
     
    The space betwixt drivers and bogies I think will look better with a firebox bottom (nasty affliction for some) It was a bit of a fiddle but I`m pleased with the fit....
     

     
     

     
     

  5. ROSSPOP

    Underneath Churchill Halt

    By ROSSPOP,

    This project is to be DCC sound driven but under the baseboards will be the traditional wiring of point motors and servos. Fortunately all my kit built and single RTR locomotives have modern motors with very low ampage requirements and have run well with all of my 4mm controllers and wiring preferences so I hav`nt seen a need to change much.
     

     
    I have recycled most of my previous 4mm wiring looms using low ampage ribbon cable as connections to and between units . These don`t require any soldering and have been totally reliable. Also on this project I have used quality double bladed `suitcase connectors`
     

     
    Provided you use the correct diameter cable I think they are very useful
     

     
    As is a glue gun when you forgotten cable clips!!!
     
    Point motors are Fulgorex and Lemarco as I like things to be simple to adjust and service. They are not for everyone. There is a minor adjustment needed to make the switches more reliable so they become `Fulgorex and The Four Clicks` The recommended operating 14V is too much and causes the gears to jam, 9V is not enough for O Gauge pointwork and affects the reliability of the inbuilt micro swiches, particularly the lower pair which can cause the motor to overheat through shorting out. mine operate well at 12V. They are noisy, which does`nt bother me.
     

     
    I`ve since changed the operating links to a Gem wire compensating loops.
     
    Yesterday I completed the track wiring and re-assembled the units and today these duty locos completed the thorough testing and I`m pleased with the results...............
     

  6. ROSSPOP
    Each module is to be lit with the latest superbright LED strips supplied by LED Lighthouse.
     
    I`ve settled on an equivelent of at least 100 watt brightness for each module which can be dimmed if needed.
     
    These new type of LED lights available produce about 100 lumens per watt of power input. A 100 Watt filament bulb produces about 1200 lumens , so I would need an LED strip of at least 12watt per metre length.
     
    I chose 4 meters of NANO TECH flexible LED strip 2835 60/LED/M at 14.4 Watt per meter. Waterproof.
     

     
    The strip needs a 12volt transformer capable of coping with combined wattage. I also needed strip connecters and a dimmer switch.
     

     
     
     
    I hope to get all four modules lit up this week.................
     
     

  7. ROSSPOP
    Woodwork is not my strongest skill....... But the plan is to build a modest diorama/layout to feature my Churchill Halt model. Lightness and ease of transport is paramount with quality inbuilt lighting built early on so as to match the scenic work to my choice of illumination.
     
    It all has to fit into my shed without any fiddleyards set up....there will be one at each end of the project.
     
    I`ve based my modules on an article in RM Aug 2012 by Neale Burrows.
     

     
    MDF is too heavy so I was lucky to find all my timber from a local hardware shop.
    I started with a simple jig to drill four bolt holes at each end of what is to be four modules.
     

     
    Four sets of component parts to make odd sized modules based on length of halt platform and the position of pointwork and working crossing gates.
     

     
    Two modules at 3` 6". One at 2` 6". One at 4`
     

     
    We did have some sunshine ????
     

     
    Each module has a set of adjustable legs.
     

     
    I`ve decided to use 5mm foam core as track bed and scenic work
     

     
    Height from floor to track level is 3` 10" and the visual window will be H 12" L 13` 6"
     
    Modules are now complete enough for me to start laying track and wiring up.
     
    I am pleased with the light from LED lighting strips.
     
     
    I will start a tracklaying blog in a while...................
  8. ROSSPOP
    Continuing with my O Guage Sound investment, I tackled one of my early kit builds..............

    and again fitted a Zimo MX645 decoder with a bass reflex speaker... ..
     
     

    Not a particularly original pickup arrangement but I needed to avoid plunger pickups with can lesson the effects of sprung suspension that I like to employ in my stock.
    Because of the rather crude pickups I needed to insulate the inside of the front splashers and other suspect areas with black tape before progressing.
     
     
     

    The rest was fairly simple as there is plenty of space in O Gauge for fitting decoders
     
     
    Please excuse the quality in sound but my Sony camera seems to pick up on the boiling steam background sound which takes away from the chuffing in this video link. I`m quite pleased with the outcome......

  9. ROSSPOP
    I was hoping to use Balsa wood for this part but could only find Bass wood ,which is fine , but looks less aged and grainy. However, it was probably a bonus on the stability front.
    I thought a base for the whole platform would aid stability as the platform was to be built around the front of the signal box.
     
     

     
     
     
    I had already purchased a Skytrex GWR Pagoda and intended to upgrade this as well as use the whitemetal platform supports to save me much time.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    Then I got on with producing old sleepers for the platform surface and produced a crude dye for embossing impressions of where the chairs had been attached.

     
     
     

     
     

     
     
     

    I fabricated lamps from the SD Mouldings range of parts, adapting them to fit on the end of the wooden posts which were then hollowed a little to take grain of wheat bulbs and wiring.

     
     
     

     
     

    The Box is fully detailed and lit.
     
     

     
     
     

     
     

    The Inspiration
  10. ROSSPOP
    1974 meant training for an occupation, getting married and starting a layout....I think that`s in the right order of priority!!! Was`nt possible to go to exhibitions so books and magazines was the norm for me. Lack of space meant N guage on the back of an old door!!

    Get something running quickly........
     
    Real inspiration began with dragging my family to the venerable Didcot Centre, equipped with my Zenith SLS camera...remenber those cheap Russian imports??. First shot of a real loco.... 1982

     
     
    29 years later, my initial inspiration is back to kit form.....

     
    I guess for an avid GWR modeller it had to be a trip to Pendon Museum....
     

    This was from a time when the Vale seen was not on public display
     
     
    This all led to me selling the N guage stuff, which ran very poorly (early Grafar and LIma) and having read about Protofour as it was then, purchased my very first etched kit.. a Mallard Models 517 class. Took ages to build and then was severly damaged having had a Black and Decker drill dropped on it! Here it is after it`s second build......
     

    lack of small quality motors in the early eighties, hence the motor showing in the cab....
     
    Life can be hard, and from here on in, I became unfaithfull to the GWR....I know! I know!! I should have sought treatment, But bringing up children and then teenagers as well as a career and home move to the south, wrought havoc with time constraints etc and I was banished to the dining room table.
     

    Father in law`s xmas prezzy was a book on the LSWR which inspired a period of that company`s modelling, particularly as Jidenco did quite a large range of kits
    .
     
     

     
    A LSWR layout was built but never quite completed as I baulked at the thought of making and lining all those coach kits....
     

     
     

     
    Completing this pre group project was too daunting for a solo modeller and I ended up completing a much smaller project over a five year period. This time in Southern livery.
     

     
     

     
     
     

     
     
    Having now retired and persuading my employers that my long service award should be an MOK 7mm GWR autotank loco kit, it is time to return to my GWR modelling roots. Loco`s are built and inspiration for a finished layout project is needed.
    I no longer buy any of the regular railway modelling magazines as I find them much a clone of each other and rather boring in content. Even the dear old MRJ has , in my view, become tired and the photography aint as good as it used to be.
    I never keep piles of old mags ,preferring to remove and file any articles that interest and inspire
     
     
     
     
    So its off to the shed for me and start making
  11. ROSSPOP
    I still like making whitemetal kits but having moved into 7mm modelling this is to be the last. Bought through the O Guage Guild Society relatively cheaply with wheels included, I already had a motor and gearbox in the spares box. The kit is from the 1980`s and the body castings seemed reasonable. With some major fettling of the body parts I felt she would make a reasonable loco.
     

     
    By thinning the edges I felt she would have a much better profile.
     

     
     

     
     
    The boiler casting would really need some major work. I decided to remove all cast boiler bands.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
    Then provide brass boiler bands to improve the look.

     
     

    She has been low melt soldered throughout due to the weight of a 7mm model.
     
     

     
     

     
    I would normally provide compensation on the chassis, but this time I did`nt bother as she weighs a ton and some!! But I did add some extra frame detail with plasticard.

     
     

     
     
    Having got this far i decided to scrap all the boiler and smokebox fittings as they looked overscale. I sourced alternative castings from various O guage suppliers. Overall I think it improved her looks no end.
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Then it was off to the paint shop for etch priming and livery. Number plates and cab detailing and the Old Gal was done......
     

     
     
     

     
     

     
     
     

  12. ROSSPOP

    A Shell Out On Tanks

    By ROSSPOP,

    Rather than convert Bachmann tanks which I did`nt feel were opened framed enough. I had a go at David Geen kits and started on a set of three. I began with a general clean up of parts and to work out how to incorporate my favourite w-irons.
     
     

     
     
     

    this proved to be a little more complex as I had to to fit all three springing units seperately making sure they all squared up with the framing.
     
     
     

    A little jiggery pokery to make sure the wheels were free of the framing.
     
     
     

    One of my pet hates is poor quality axle box details, and I feel this is a failing on these kits. All were replaced with MJT.
     
     
     

     
     
     

    The rest of the kit was very good and went together well. Then a thorough clean and off to the paint shop.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    I used Fox transfers to complete the project.......... The entire project was completed in the late Ray Earl style...........three Brownie Points to anyone who can say what that is........?????
     
     
     
     

    And I did the same!!!!! Actually I messed up the Fox transfers.
  13. ROSSPOP
    No point in building kits when Bachmann produce work like this. Converted to P4 using Alan Gibson wheelset plus his coupling rod etch. Not all RTR locos have accurate chassis but this one does so I changed her to plain coupling rods as there were failures with the fluted variety in real life.
     
    I upgraded buffer beam detail front and back and she is fitted with Zimo sound.......
     
     

     
     
     

  14. ROSSPOP

    A few more BR vehicles

    By ROSSPOP,

    I think this ex GWR wagon is from Ratio, again with Bill Bedford springing and MJT BR plate axle boxes. Please don`t tell the Scalefour Inquistion but the axle boxes are upside down..........fffffancy that!!!!!
     
     
     

     
     
     
    Studying the many books available on S&D in the 1950`s I needed a selection of representative brakevans.
     
    Parkside LMS Brakevan with my preferred method of w-iron suspension and a upgrade of white metal axle boxes and springs from MJT and Kenline parts. I think Kenline castings especially their loco lamps are the best you can get. I`ve been snapping them up on ebay for years.
     
     

     
     
    The Bachmann BR Standard brakevan was just the job for upgrading to P4. I changed all the handrails with steel wire which is more robust.
     
     

     
     
    Cambrian ex SR Brakevan; also frequented the S&D.
     
     

     
     
    Back to Parkside for these identical wagons but with different running gear.
     
     

  15. ROSSPOP
    It`s surprising how accurate these kits were in their time. First thing was to open up and separate parts not needed.
     
     

     
     
    I`m making two kits and plan to use Bill Bedford sprung W irons, brakegear and MJT replacement axle boxes and buffers.
     
     
     

     
     
    Bill`s W irons are now my preferred suspension system. Previously used the MJT three point suspension method, but I found them a bit fiddly to get a level height.
     
     

     
     
     
    Once fitted squarely it`s just a matter of adding a little weight to depress the wire springing, Plastic kits aint heavy!!!
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     

     
     
    I nearly indulged my childhood by having opening doors at least on one side. However, I decided to fill all holes after removing hinges with plastic strip.
     
     

     
     
     
     
    Then spent a pleasant evening soldering up Bill Bedford`s underframe parts.....
     
     

     
     

  16. ROSSPOP
    Continuing with my 1960`s Airfix kit theme, here are two mineral wagons complete with working drop doors that will provide a coal scene in Cole goods yard.....eventually!! Underframes are as mentioned before...........
     
     

     
     
     
    Now this is an ex LSWR van in BR livery which was used as a tool van in Southampton. I`ve used modellers licence as I`m sure it MIGHT have travelled down the S&D and stopped off at COLE on a pickup freight !!!!!!
     
    Now the body of this van is from the 1970`s and is from the Maple Models range .....Is there anyone out there that knows what material these kits were produced in ??
     
     
     

  17. ROSSPOP
    The two coach set is based around the excellent comet coach kits , but changing their 9` bogie kits for the MJT compensated frames and white metal sides which, in my view, are much better representations of the type. I also used MJT sprung LMS buffers and vac pipes from Wizard Models.
     
     
    suburban
     
     

     
     

     
     
     
    Having upgraded all my loco`s for this project to DCC sound I decided to revert back to using 3 link couplings, but this time using magnetic bottom links. I used what remaining stock of PC Couplings I had left from the 1970`s , with additional frets from the excellent Wizardmodels own range.
     
     

     
     

     
     

     
     
    I decided to use Bill Bedfords coach connections for this local set as they will work forever together!!!
     
     

     
     
    Hope my eyesight is good enough to use this uncoupling gadget I bought about 1980..........
     
     

     
     
    The real two coach set....
     
     
     

  18. ROSSPOP
    I prefer Parkside 7mm rolling stock kits over their 4mm versions. Their 7mm versions have much finer detailed chassis parts.....
     
    This was an easy assembly as always provided you take your time.................................
     


     
     
     

     
    The quality of livery transfers was somewhat disappointing............................
  19. ROSSPOP
    Having built them all, it was time to test them and the trackwork which has been left `fallow` for a couple of years.
     
    All my locos have Digitrains sound files and the mooing is the Lemaco point motors I have used as my units are only 21/2 inches deep and they are the lowest in height I could think of.......
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    Eyesight has dictated that this loco kit will be the last one as I must save my sight for easier tasks-like building a layout!!!
     
    I felt I should add this last kit build to my GWR collection of constructs to complete the journey as it were.
     
    Fortunately, I purchased the kit six months before the collapse of JLTRT and further fortune has been that there are no missing parts.
     
    As always my preference, beginning with the chassis first, I planned for sprung hornblocks. These are supplied as part of the kit but was concerned about the amount of potential axle slop in what are average quality in the bearing and hornguide castings.
     

     
    Too much axle movement will always lead to coupling rod binding problems further down the chassis build so it is prudent to sort this out right from the start.
     

     
     
     
    In this case I opted for using Slaters `new style` sprung hornblocks ( a first for me).
     

     
    These are much better quality products with absolute minimal axle slop in the bearings and hornguides. And have cast `axle height` marking which will help in fitting later on.
     

     
    The next priority for me is to build up the coupling rod etches I pre-drilled these 2.4mm to take the Slaters coupling rod bearings.
     

     
    One other important observation for me was to adjust the position of the plunger pickups to avoid the `nasty plastic infill` on Slaters driver wheel rims causing electrical pickup problems down the road.
     

     
    Before using them the chassis fret needs to be adjusted for their use. The basic chassis subframe is a combination of fold up frame spacers, chassis sides and detailed side frame overlays. There are pre-etched `dimples` to help establish the `axle ride height` which is very helpfull leaving me to mark out the Slaters hornblock cut-out positions.
     

     
     
     
    Having prepared the chassis side frames and soldered up....................................................
     

     
    ............................................it is an easy and reliable job to accurately solder the hornblocks in position using the coupling rods and axle jig. ( obviously the springs are to hold the hornguides in position before soldering)
     

     
    The result is a sweet running chassis everytime.......
     

  21. ROSSPOP
    I was hoping to have completed construction this week, but there has been a few re-fashioning delays from the kit and some errors on my part .
     
    The buffer faces as supplied have a very noticeable `dome` head `their all domed`!!
     

     
    Easily sorted with the trusty carborundum disc.................................................................
     
    Other modellers have noted that the cast injectors as supplied are cast incorrectly and need a lot of extra work to become prototypical.
     

     
    As can be seen as supplied on the left if not modified cannot be made to look right.
     
    It took a couple of evenings to sort out..................................
     
    .
     
    The cast pannier tank supports in my kit were not square and needed fettling to get right..................................................................
     

     
    Again , not quite perfect but the best I could come up with.
     
    The buffer housings needed re-drilling to make a smooth working buffer shaft
     

     
    But finally on removal of the footplate frame I found very little work was needed to get a smooth trouble free chassis match-up
     

     
     
     
    Decided to do more work on the body but did`nt like the wrong size of the central toolbox which on the finished model will be very prominent.
     

     
    On the real thing the back of it is tight up to the central splasher face and the front is almost flush with the edge of the footplate.
     
    The `iffy` whitemetal versions supplied just don`t fit and are too shallow.................................
     

     
    So, with some scrap white metal sheet from the bits and bobs box I made the toolboxes deeper..................
     

     
    And after cleaning up look better..........................................................
     

     
    And fit better...........................................................................................
     

     
    Happier with that I can now push on.................................................................................
     

     

  22. ROSSPOP
    I like to build a chassis so that wheels and motor are removable for painting and chemical blackening. Once you know you have a sweet running motion It`s just a case of adding all the brakes and details.
     
    I like a robust brake gear set up and use slightly bigger gauge rods to achieve this aim. The cast springs supplied in the kit are nicely detailed and perhaps slightly over scale if I was to be really pernickety. There are lots of etched brake rod washers supplied in a very heavy gauged nickel silver fret, which are afflicted by `cusps` at the edges through the etching process . I decided not to waste time fettling the cusps away.
     

     
    I started with the brake hanger rods and the firebox.
     
    As my loco will be an early version I fitted the early pattern brake hangers ( the kit also supplies the later pattern). These are the usual etched design, each set needing two halves soldered together.
    The white metal sandboxes needed draw filing to make them look presentable.
     

     
    You need to consider the positioning of the brake operating rods and not make everything too scale closeness or removing the wheels will be impossible.
     
    It all reassembles easily enough...............................................................................................................................
     

     
     
     

     
    I`m pleased with the result and the chassis is virtually ready for the paint shop
  23. ROSSPOP
    Making model loco handrails is not one of my favourite builds. It has`nt helped that the handrails supplied were (a) not enough usable examples in total, (b) a few were innacurately drilled through. Luckily I had a few in the spares box.
     
    My method works for me so I make boiler and pannier handrails in two halves.
     

     
    Using an easily bendable wire. The version supplied in the kit seemed to be brass/nickel mix and was easy to work with.
     

     
    Obviously the two halves are joined and soldered at the central handrail knob.
     
    The white metal dome supplied was a tad oval in shape so I had to make do with it.
     

     

    She`s well on the way to completion...............................................................................................
     

  24. ROSSPOP
    Phase one has been to start lightening the stonework and begin to get rid of the satin sheen of the primer coat.
     

     

    I`m using mainly Revell matt enamels and very old stock matt Humbrol.
     

     

    Phase two has been to colour individual stones and then a further overall wash of the main stonework colour.
     

     

    This will now need to dry for 24 hours and then I must concoct a morter probably dark grey colour mixed with plaster of P.
     

     


     


  25. ROSSPOP
    Having really faffed around with doing individual panes of glass ( that should be pains of glass !! ) for the rooflight the Goods Shed is now complete.
     

     
    I wanted to make the rooflight more flush with the slates which I hope adds to the realism.
     

     
     
     

    Well to recap... I`ve gone from this........
     

     
     
     
    To this........
     

     

    Next to complete the overall project will be a bit of cheating........
     
    I did`nt make this one. T`was bought of ebay back in 2010 for a very good price
     

     
    She just needs reverting back to 1930`s GWR building colours................
     
    Bye for now..........
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