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ROSSPOP

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  2. ROSSPOP
    I find it such a stressfull slog blocking out and painting each area on a GWR livery................
     

     
     
     
    But she is finally liveried up without too many dog hairs in the finish. I`m glad I added a Badger Anthem dual-action airbrush to my paintshed kit as being able to adjust the flow of air and/or paint has helped no end.
     


     
     
     

     
     
     

    The paint is fully cured now (three days) so today will see final reassembly, the transfers applied and then the final finishing coat of satin varnish.
     

  3. ROSSPOP
    The chassis is virtually complete and has had it`s first powered bench test.
     

     
    The body has been primed with Clostermans etch black and then all green livery areas undercoated with Humbrol very old stock No80 to highlight any blemishes etc.
     

     
    I`m happy with how the push pull gear looks
     

     


     
    And will be using a quality masking solution and Tamiya low tack tape to seperate colours as I proceed.
     

     


  4. ROSSPOP
    This is a Modern Outline Kit but I`m not going to give a blow by blow constructional account as it has already been done by many others.
     
    However, my version will be based on No 4851 in 1939 when the rear left hand side steps and access handrail was fitted and also still had he original auto-gear which I have never seen modelled.
     
    I bought the kit in April 2013 with my long service cash award for 40 years at the sharp end in the NHS.......... so thankyou tax payers !!
     
     
     
    This is a top- notch excellent kit...not perfect.... but excellently designed and thought through. Not for the absolute beginner but if you patiently read and follow the instructions you will enjoy how the kit is meant to be assembled.
     
    The `not perfect` comment is because certain details have been mandatory and therefore not representative of early versions. The lamp brackets, for instance , are etchings which I dislike and are pre etched in the wrong positions for my version. The rear side steps are positioned with pre etched slots half of which are blocked off by a lost wax casting and drilling lost wax castings into a slot shape aint easy.
     
    A minority of the smaller lost wax castings are poor quality and ill- defined.
     
    But nevertheless it is the best 7mm kit of this loco on the market.
     
    So, the chassis has brilliant beam compensation designed in............
     

     
    The body is assembled by a novel tab, slot and twist method followed up with minimal soldering..............
     

     
    .......... and if you are careful there is provision for opening doors...........
     
    Original Auto-Gear 1930`s style with no hood on the buffer beams and just a single socket and lead...........
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    The kit does not supply push-pull gear but is available through Peter Roles Components which has enough parts to be adapted for this early version.
     
    I also used components from Peter Roles to replace those smaller ill-defined items and also his cast GWR lamp irons and vacuum and heating hoses.
     

     
    just some pipe work detailing on the chassis to complete.........................
     

     
    ....and then to fabricate the full cab detailing supplied with the kit....then she will be ready for the paint shop.........
  5. ROSSPOP
    This completes my 14month back -to back LMS loco kit build project.
     

     

     
    I discovered that the Canon 1833 motor is intolerant to any hint of feedback so I track tested with pure DC power which does not give the very `fine` motor control I will eventually achieve once she is fitted with the superior Zimo MX645 decoder.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
    Panic set in over the possible demise of 7mm loco kits now that the epoc of quality 7mm RTR has arrived..................................
     
    see ya!
     
    John
  7. ROSSPOP
    Finally completed today and will go on to be fully run in before converting to DCC. She is very heavy ( a brick and a half)
     
     
     

     
    Far too clean but will remain so until I investigate subtle weathering techniques.
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    Something to sing along to...................................................
     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8UVguWGtuQ
  8. ROSSPOP
    No longer available so lucky to have snapped this one up on Ebay.


     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This project is to be a gradual enterprise as it was really an impulse purchase during 2014 when I had committed myself to building a GWR modular diorama/layout.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The layout is going well but by the end of the year I needed a break from it as I have always been a solo railway modeller.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This kit was calling out to me....... so I began construction January last year.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave Andrews has withdrawn this kit for the time being as there are some niggling problems that some might find annoying.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This is the most complex kit and largest loco I have started in 7mm . If you have read my other blogs you know I prefer a sprung loco chassis and I am prone to replace most visually obvious parts from HobbyDevelopments, PR Components and Laurie Griffin in order that all my loco stock are of the same standard.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I`ve never made a `state of the art kit` so I`m not sure what that really means but the etches in this kit for both loco and tender are well produced.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Dave advises in the instructions not to use the correct size wheels for his kit because of the tight clearances between the front drivers, but having asked about others experiences on the O Gauge Guild Forum many have used the correct size wheels with no problems.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I find a cuppa and a chocolate macaroon highly advantageous at the very beginning.......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As ever I start with the coupling rods......  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched loco springs but I need to fit cast white metal versions to match my other stock.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Because of the issue with the front drivers already mentioned, I needed to markout as accurately as I can the frame cutouts for the roller bearings, any error here or wandering away from the kit designers intentions will be diasterous when it comes to fitting the crossheads and front wheel brakes.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Not a lot of space !!!
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    It`s always a tentative time marking up and cutting out the frames for hornblocks. It is the most significant action in determining whether you will get a trouble free chassis and perhaps the whole point of a loco`s construction..... a faultlessly running model.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I usually power off the centre axle but this kit has quite a bit of detailing between the frames, so I will be using the rear axle .  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have invested in a quality ABC Maxon motor and 38.1 gearbox. She will eventually be DCC sound.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Everything goes together well. and using an axle jig ensures accuracy.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have replaced the inside motion bracket gubbins with HobbyDevelopment products.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    As expected not a lot of room between the drivers.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    All is well in the chassis dept....  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with the front bogie framework. A very workable and sure footed design.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    On to the cylinder blocks and crossheads. This assembly is very much part of the `face` of a GWR castle. There are enough parts to consider making a moving relief valve which connects through the front framework via a swivel linkage.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Unfortunately we come across the kits first niggling problem as the etched holes in the fold up cylinder blocks are misaligned.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Easily sorted once you find out how it should look.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some very nice lost wax parts to make the slide bars , but does require fettling and drilling.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The relief valve rod is too short to make into a moving part so I needed to fabricate a longer length during my attempt at using the ` Guy Williams flicking link movement`.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Some of the cylinder blocks detailing parts are also white metal so you need to prioritise the order of solder assembly to avoid melting them.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Sorted !!!  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    There are no problems with construction of the footplate.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Annealing helps with forming the curved parts.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The splashers need filing to get a finer top edge which will be left shining brass in the finished form.  
     
     
     
     

    The firebox shaping is helped by the parts supplied and by annealing.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The smokebox needs soldering with care as the front is a white metal.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    The boiler is soldered up in the usual fashion.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

    All three boiler sections are bolted together.  
     
     

     
     
     

    It will take time to file and fettle around the base of the firebox to get a level fit between the rear splashers. Care must be taken to get it all level with the smokebox and its whitemetal saddle at the front.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Once this is achieved the boiler bands can be tinned and soldered in place.  
     
     

     
     
     

    The second niggle is that nearly all the pre etched washout plug holes in the sides of the firebox are in the wrong place, mostly too low and this takes time to make good.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    An error of my own making is that I chose the wrong shape on the front edge of the extended frames and had to rebuild it into a curved front.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The front bogie has its own central spring and so I had to balance the weight using lead sheet. these will not be finally used until completion of the build.  
     
     

     
     
     

    Roof and cab is well detailed and care needs to be taken in bending the roof to the correct profile.  
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    At this point in the build I took a break........  
     
     

     
     
     


    Building recommenced this January commencing with adding some footplate details.  

     


     


     

    Then a brief push by hand trial through my B6 turnouts.  

     


     
     
     

    Encouraged by this I have pushed on with finishing the chassis detailing with fitting the braking system, and fitting the plunger pickups.  


     


     


     
     
     

     
     
     

    She currently sits in my cabinet calling me to do further work........  

     


  10. ROSSPOP
    This is the last of my MR/ LMS loco kit builds.
     
    I bought this kit last December and started it this month.
     
    It has`nt been the easiest of builds and this has been a combination of my own attitude to some of the kit`s idiosyncrasies and a subsequent dip in my assembly skills perhaps.
     
    This is a kit that you will definitely need an 80watt soldering iron as it has thick nickel silver chassis etches and thick brass etches for the bodywork.
     
    There is no provision for any chassis compensation but there are half etched hornblock lines and ride height markings.
     

     
    The brake hangers and blocks look good, but the brake rod adjusters and controls are a weakness in this kit.
     

     
    I`m not a fan of etched axle springs either but fortunately Laurie Griffin makes a number of lost wax castings for this particular loco class.
     

     
    I`ve chosen sprung hornblocks and for the first time a Branchlines 40.1 fold up gearbox with a Cannon motor.
    Assembly is simple with the use of basic axle jigs and coupling rods.
     

     
    After preparation of the chassis sides the kit makes a very strong chassis framework.
     

     

     
    The bogie is a straight forward non compensated assembly.
     

     

     
    I shall be using Laurie Griffen parts to complete a more substantial brake assembly than is provided for in the kit.
  11. ROSSPOP
    It has taken me a while to get this model to work and look right. I hope this has been achieved.
     
    It was important to dig in the two gate mechanisms and then to lay the track.
     

     
    The servo`s worked well once I had callibrated them to be in crossing gate mode. However, I had not realised that first you needed to cancel out the bouncing signal mode and so although this short video
    looks reasonable, both gate hinge mechanisms broke when the servo flicked back into signal mode and slammed the gates agains the posts !!!!!!
     

     
    This mayhem did, however, lead me to completely redesign the hinges and make simple shock absorbing joints below baseboard.
     

     
    The blob of fluid is sweat from my brow !!!!!!!
     
    I guess one comment would be `dont use heavy white metal crossing gates in 7mm ` having said that, these Springside models crossing gates are an accurate GWR representation and it is a pity that a pedestrian side gate is not included.
     
    Studying the one picture of Sarsden Halt crossing that I have you can just make out those charactristic bars of `kissing gates` so I have had a go at representing these as accurately as I can.
     

     
    The white metal gate is from the Duncanmodels range.
     

     

     
    Obviously, everything awaits painting and ballasting in.....................
  13. ROSSPOP
    The built in fold-up hornblocks needed to be free from paint and so as with the 1P chassis I have continued with a combination of Birchwood Casey chemical blackening and Clostermans black etch primer rattle can.
     

     
    A secondary advantage is also avoiding shiney axles , bearings, wheelrims and coupling rods. All the steel parts are coated in Electrofix to avoid rust.
     
    Then its just a case of slowly putting it all back together again. There are some rattle can paints that do not swamp all the detailing with copious amounts of paint.
     

     
     
     
    Just a bit of tidying up and the wheels and motor can be fitted.
     

     
    The chassis has completed it`s session in the paint shop. It`s a smooth mover and just needs to be wired to the motor which can wait for another time.
     

     
    Body fits well with no fouling of the wheels or coupling rods........ so on to painting the bodywork......
     

  14. ROSSPOP
    As you all know, in my other blog, I found a previously unfinished 4mm version of a Johnson 1P in the attic stored away and decided to finish it......

    Now that I`ve moved into 7mm modelling, but entirely GWR, I had been bitten with an LMS bug and decided to investigate the Slaters 7mm version. There were no real negative comments about such a kit that I could find, and so, I sold some stock to fund the purchase.
     
    The Slaters 7mm Johnson 1P kit dates from the mid 1980`s. so it is`nt a, so called, state of the art kit. Having said that, it is supplied as a `complete kit` so no extras are needed.
    It`s not supplied with a Belpair boilered option , but I`m happy to build her as an LMS 1930`s push-pull version in beautiful all black with intermediate passenger livery and a few polished brass bits!!!!
     
    She will be No 1260 based at Bedford , my home town.
     
     
     
    Way back in the early 1980`s I discovered for myself at least that sprung hornblocks provided a most reliable way of improving loco performance whereby all wheels are on the track despite any track irregularities. I think it also maximises electrical pickup provided the right type of pickups are fitted. I have carried this preference forward into 7mm construction. I also like the idea of using the loco coupling rods as a jig for establishing accurate axle and hornblock alignment at all times which in turn eliminates all those hours wasted trying to find out why a chassis binds or works in one direction better than the other.....for me at least it means I can get it right everytime.....
     
    With this slaters kit,however, I was unable to follow this tried and tested method in full. The kit makes up into a fully sprung system, but the hornblocks are etched foldup tabs as part of the chassis etchings and do not have any form of screw adjustment to ride height either....... so new territory for me ......
     
     
     
     
     
    I decided to begin with making the rear bogie as a way of assessing the kits accuracy and also discover any failings on my part in making up the Slaters hornblocks

     
    The bogie hornblocks differ from the main chassis as the hornblocks are assembled by soldering on the axle box guides as seperate units
     

     
    However, if you take your time at each stage and read the instructions making sure everything moves freely with NO SLOP, you will find few problems that can`t be solved with a minimum of fettling.
     
     
     

     
     
     

    I think it makes up into a very clever designed sprung bogie mechanism. with both axles at 90degrees to the chassis with no lateral axle movement. A very free running set up.
     
    I opted for black foam between the two brass washers instead of the plasticard provided as an extra level of adjustment.
     
    The only problem encountered was a wrong drill size written in the instructions.
     
     
     
     
     
    So... on to the main chassis fret..............

    As already mentioned, the hornguides are attached to the chassis etch and the instructions suggested folding and soldering these first before bending the main chassis into its U shape.
     
    I did`nt feel this suited me at all and chose another way..........
     

    I opted to fold the chassis sides first and then fold up the hornblocks as there is plenty of room between the frames to solder easily. I had also at this stage made up the coupling rods to check on the accuracy by lining them up with the fixed spring stop etch...... all looked to be accurate.....
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    After reaming the axle boxes and preparing the main drivers I assembled the coupling rods and was amazed and pleased that the chassis ran absolutely faultlessly with no fettling of the rods required. No slop at all and a very free running design.
     
    Still plenty of detail to be added later on but now I have a solid chassis to work with I will now proceed with the loco body and make sure every thing lines up.......
     
     
     
    These are my preferred sprung hornblocks, although the plastic Slaters have been upgraded and are not adjustable...
     

     


     

    I prefer to make coupling rods first and then after cutting out the frames use them with a Metalsmiths axle jig to solder everything in place........
     

  15. ROSSPOP
    Earlier in the year I snapped up a few 7mm whitemetal wagon kits off ebay. They are from currently extinct Oldbury Models and fit into my ongoing MR/LMS modelling project.
     
    They are not state of the art by any means but I think can be made up into fairly satisfactory models.
     
    Although I am a follower of etch brass only for locomotive kits I quite like making whitemetal wagon kits.
     
     
     
     
     

     
    Obviously, the handrailing had to be fashioned from brass rod supplied with the kit. I preferred brass angle strip for the running board as the whitemetal ones supplied were the wrong profile and would be prone to damage.
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
    I`m pleased I snapped it up and it makes an unusual and not often modelled wagon.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
    In the paint shop having had a dose of Clostermans black etch primer......
     
     
     
    Then two thin coats of Humbrol black 85. There is very limited information and photos of how these wagons were painted. I based this one on the photos in Midland Wagons volume 1.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

  18. ROSSPOP
    Thinking a long way ahead towards making a small LMS layout project, I thought it might make a change if I ignored having a stationary goods yard hand crane.
     
    It might be more interesting if I had a mobile hand crane , so I searched the web for ideas and information and came up with this photo.
     

     
    Strictly speaking I think this is an ex LNWR version but there are similar Midland examples and I took a chance on a Meteor Models hand crane truck kit in 7mm , which is based on Midland Railway practice.
     
    Rather than bore you all with blow by blow construction I will start by saying that the kit is very much a mixed bag of both reasonable and poor white metal castings. The buffers are supposedly sprung but you have to drill the solid cast buffer housings first.
     
    The etched truck had fold up W irons which were badly drawn before being etched. These were replaced with Slaters compensated MR W irons that also had better axlebox castings.
     
    The kit had an atrocious piece of tatty wood for the jib, so this was replaced by a suitable size of square plastic, which I sanded to shape.
     
    The crane castings, however, were reasonably good. After cleaning up the crank wheel castings and painting all the parts prior to construction, the hand crane actually works!!!
     


     
     
     
    The crane truck finally turned out quite well.
     
     
     

     
    It has been difficult to establish what colour these cranes and trucks were painted. The preserved example at the Chasewater railway centre is red-brown with a black truck.....
     
    It took four evenings to complete and paint so not a huge project and I`m pleased with the model. Still needs more painting to be done and a suitable match truck to be added..........
     

  19. ROSSPOP
    ]As some of you will already know, some recently produced HMRS 4mm and 7mm pressfix transfers have a problem. The paper or the adhesive is wrong and in my recent purchase of 4mm red lining, I couldn`t soak off the backing paper without the lining pulling away from the model despite experimenting with letrosol and Transfix etc.
     
    So when it came to dressing the 1P in her intermediate lining I had to use my Bob Moore`s lining pen for the first time ( at least on a model steam locomotive).
     
    According to the LMS literature, buffer beam and lining are both Vermilion so for my model it has been my favourite Humbrol Satin Black No 85 and Phoenix P451 Vermilion buffer beam red.
     

     
    Having red ( read ) up on how the professionals do lining I fabricated some plasticard formers to use as the datum lines , particularly as the corners of the lining panels are rounded.
     

     
    I also added the suggested 12 drops of lighter fuel to the tin of vermilion to get it to flow well.
     
    I`m reasonably pleased with the result even though applying red lines onto black alters the hue of the red. I would`nt want to do this for a living !!
     

     
     
     

     
    Just a few more lines to apply and then on with the LMS transfers..........
     
     
     
    I used Fox waterslide transfers of the appropriate countershaded style..................
     

     

     
    And then a `sealing` coat of Railmatch Satin Varnish...........
     

     

     
     
     
    The end is in sight....... internal cab to be painted , window frames and glazing and then some lovely builders plates and smoke box number plate to be applied..........
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    Construction of this enjoyable kit is now done.
     
    A lot of the detailing is not attached yet as I intend to paint them all first.
     
    The kit provides both brass etch and plastic strip boiler bands which obviously fit in the milled grooved boiler, I hav`nt decided which to use yet.
     
    Time to go for a longish lay down before I start the priming and painting journey.
     
    Thanks for all the likes, etc, etc.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

  21. ROSSPOP
    Nothing too exciting about pickups and every railway modeller swears by his or her method. When I built the chassis I had been trying sprung pickups and it was built using them. I was never happy and I`ve tried Jidenco`s, Alan Gibsons, Kean Maygib`s and they have all been unreliable and some have come apart or have been too strong and have acted as brakes !!.
    I ended up trying these coiled spring types , but I could see them from side profile, having said that I have them on two other 4mm locos and they are very reliable. These on the 1P interfere with the sprung axles and one has left in disgust !!!
     
    My other successfull type of pickup arrangement I use in 7mm and 4mm. At the end of the day I like to clean and adjust pickups when required , so I like to be able to get at them.
     

     
    So out with the carborundum disc and chop some phosphor bronze strip. I use a rivet punch to make a dimple at the end and then use various shaped bends to improve and increase the pickup pressure on the wheel rim. I find with this method you can get maximum pressure with minimal braking affect and no interference with sprung axles.
     

     
    As an added insurance against possible shorting out in tight spaces I give them a couple of coats of gloss black enamel as insulation.
  22. ROSSPOP
    I hav`nt been entirely satisfied with the look of the smokebox, so have spent today fabricating a new front plate. It`s not quite thick enough but that was all the scrap box had.......
     

     
    I think it gives a better profile.......
     

     
    Overall the boiler seems a very accurate fit and will provide plenty of weight over the drivers

     
    The kit provides either plastic strip or etched brass boiler bands which fit the milled slots, my vote will be the plastic strip as the boiler is 5mm thick !!!
     

     
    There is extra work to do around the base of the smokebox with regard to some rivetting not catered for in the kit for my particular choice of loco. Also, the white metal Deeley smoke box door provided is very poor, which is surprising as the kit has mostly top class lost wax detailing parts.
  23. ROSSPOP
    In 2007 my attention was drawn to a RTR Tower GWR Pannier tank as a quick introduction into O guage. However, i was`nt comfortable with the chinese compromises with construction or what seemed to be `Bakerlight` bearings. After giving her a coat of etch primer and a wartime livery, i let her go to a good home.......
     

     
     
    I started venturing from to 7mm modelling more fully in 2008 starting, as i did in 4mm, with a white metal small prairy tank Springside kit and at the same time joining the O guage guild . This enabled me to research 7mm traders and other modellers experiences . I chose GWR 1935 - 1945 as I guessed there would be plenty of kits and accessories available, thus speeding up progress . Having started my railway modelling journey as an adult in 1974, also with GWR, following a holiday trip to Buckfastleigh, I sold all my accumulated 4mm GW stuff and slowly replaced them with 7mm equivalents
    Actually, it turned out to be a journey in 4mm taking me through periods in LSWR, Southern ex LBSC ( see MRJ 111 Devil`s Dyke) and finally SDJR 1950`s project which I still have.
     
    Why 7mm ? Is`nt that what your supposed to do at retirement??????
     
     

     
     
    Then I snapped up a complete Scorpion kit on ebay, which I built with sprung suspension. Painted with a tin of Precision GWR Green purchased way back in 1979.
     
     

     
     
    Confidence grew and this time I found a complete Gladiator kit on The Sales and Wants section O guage guild site.
     
     

     
     
    Then it was time to try my hand at 7mm buildings.
     

     

     
    Back to loco construction with a John Maidment kit to which I added extra detailing.
     
     

     
    Then a last fling at a white metal kit, purchased from a guild member at Telford 2011.
     

     
    Ebay again.... found a very dificult to build Gataneal GWR `Flying Banana` kit.
     
     

     
     

     
    Thats all for now.................
     
     
    However, having migrated from P4 discipline it is wise to keep all things in perspective................

    one of my favourites from Model Railway Constructor, February 1960
     
    I have been scribbling track plans since January 2013 looking at various typical GWR station layouts. I have an idea of four
    baseboards, each 4` x 2`6`` plus a fiddle yard.
    So far, this plan has settled in my imagination.

     
     
    Or perhaps this:-

     
     
    Or oerhaps this:-

  24. ROSSPOP
    Was`nt happy with the roof sides, so have added a roof strip which i think has improved things.
     
     

     
     
    Roof needs re-painting with a darker grey, but will do that when I visit her again when in 4mm mode.
     
    Meanwhile, I have added the pipework front and back and will need to paint these red left and yellow right.
     
     

     
     

  25. ROSSPOP
    I `ve nearly finished the BR 1P so here is the coach.........
     
     

     
    I changed the bogies to full MJT parts and MJT Sprung buffers. The roof is completed so its just the interior and coach lining to do.......
     
     

     
    This was the inspiration........
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