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ROSSPOP

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  1. ROSSPOP
    Well here it is....... started in March and finished last evening with the fitting of the sandpipes and etched number plates.....
     

    I`m fairly pleased with the cab details now they have been painted up and will leave the roof loose until suitable figures are prepared........
     

     

     
     
     

     

     
     
     

     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    She runs superbly and will now go on extensive analogue running before being wired for DCC sound....
     

  2. ROSSPOP

    MR/LMS Open wagons

    By ROSSPOP,

    Time to complete a small set of open wagons.
     
    A slaters 3 plank plastic kit and an Oldbury Models whitemetal version snapped up on ebay.........................
     
    rattlecan black etch primer.....Clostermanns

     
     
     
    Then another Odbury models LMS 1Plank
     

     
     
     
     
     
    All spray painted with Railmatch LMS livery enamels.......................................
     

     

     

  3. ROSSPOP
    The chassis has now left the paint shop and apart from the fitting of balance weights has been re-assembled.
     

     
    These days I have settled for Clostermanns black etch primer for all brass and nickel silver with chemical blackening to wheels, coupling rods and axles.
     
     
     

     
    Now that Mashima motors have gone into retirement I have discovered Branchlines gearboxes and Canon 1833 motors a more than suitable quality alternative for around fifty quid.
     

  4. ROSSPOP
    Despite the kits shorcomings I have now completed the superstructure replacing or adding parts from either Laurie Griffin or Peter Roles.
     
    I `m generally pleased with the outcome and also decided to model her as a push-pull variant.
     
    The boiler stays have not been fettled to fit yet..........................................................................................
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

  6. ROSSPOP
    I particularly like all the half etched holes in the body sides that make riveting that much easier. Sadly none are provided for the front and rear cab so I added these myself using photos.
     

     

     
    I`ll get all the negatives of this kit out of the way in one go....................................................
     
    The smokebox, boiler and firebox are dimensionally wrong. I struggled to assemble them as accurately as I would have liked and very nearly binned the whole project.......
     
    On the plus side they assemble together as a seperate removable unit.......
     

     
    The smoke box is the kits worst assembly, made up of four brass overlays none of which actually join together underneath....... The outer riveted overlay is far too small...
     

     

     
    However, if you have worked with 4mm Jidenco etched kits from the 70`s and 80`s you will have learnt how to remedy things.......
     
    You will also ,because of the thickness of the brass, be happy to anneal the cab roof, the firbox and the loco rear bunker to get the shapes and reverse curves easily formed.
     
    Finally the cast chimneys are way too small and the smokebox door being 30mm dia is too big. Again, Laurie Griffin comes to the rescue......
     

     
    There is supposed to be a front cylinder cover between the extension frames, but this is neither mentioned, illustrated or included in the kit.
     

     

     

     

     

  7. ROSSPOP

    3. Detailing the chassis

    By ROSSPOP,

    There`s quite a lot of fetlting to do , but the parts are very accurate particularly the etches. The white metal parts are clean but the smaller detailed bits are some times not very well defined.
     
    The axle springs are `mazak` castings so I have avoided soldering these to the frames as it can alter the mazak matrix and lead to `mazak rot`
     

     
    After much thought I decided to change the Premier Components coupling rods to those provided for in the kit as I really don`t think much of milled rods......................................................
     

     
     
     

     
    Maybe not much in it but I think they are better looking..........................................
     
    I really can`t see how this chassis can stay together with just superglue, unless, I suppose, its a static model.
     
    I also discovered the reason why the wheels wobble on their axles even when the screws are at their tightest. The screwsare too long at the cheesehead end.
     

     
    The rusty one is a Slaters original. I happened to have a spare set and replacing them has been an enormous improvement.You can buy them from Slaters.
     
     
     

     
    I soldered all of the brake rigging to give it all strength and to keep stable when the wheels are removed for painting.
     

     
    Now onto the front bogie assembly.............................................................
     


     


     

     
     
     

  8. ROSSPOP

    2. A working chassis.

    By ROSSPOP,

    I used a basic axle alignment jig to position the main bearings.
     
    The centre bearings have been shortened to accomodate the motor and gearbox.
     

     
    I have used the Hatchette replacement wheels set, having shortened the length of the wheel retaining screws to give a stronger hold.
     
    I aligned the wheels using the spokes to fine tune wheel quartering.
     
    There is absolutely nothing wrong with the etched coupling rods provided but to save some time I have
     
    used those by Premier Components.
     
     
     

     
    As I had hopes the large Sagami motor is very powerfull and the simple 36.1 gearing has bedded in well and runs very smoothly.
     

    Yes ,of course, darling I totally agree with your suggestion of a glass kitchen table........................................ simples......
     


  9. ROSSPOP
    I was never interested in Hatchettes expensive offering that looks too small for a working model. So, being the tight fisted old modelling git that I am I came across a large Sagami motor and later a `Home of O Gauge` 36.1 ratio fold up gear box on ebay some time back £30 max.
     
    The motor is about 1.5mm narrower than those cylindrical chassis spacers so I will have to modify the axle box detailing on my chosen driven axle.
     
    Today I built it up and ran the gearing in...................................... should do the trick.................
     
     
     

     
    Comparison with an ABC Maxon motor and reduction gearing in a Dave Andrews Castle chassis I`ve built.
     

     
    The kit construction will be 90% soldered with the exception of very small `whitemetal/mazak` details cab etc and those parts to be attached to the plastic tender body.
    So this means removal of body casting factory finish paint for which I found Polycell advanced paint stripper the strongest and most effective.
     

     
    And this is all you need to strip the varnish off the etches (1 hour dipping max) using good old Wilkos paint and varnish stripper, plus a brush, water and wire wool.
     

     
     
     
    The basic frames are completed and this evening I plan to fit the bearings, wheels , motor and coupling rods
     

     
     
     

  10. ROSSPOP
    She is now ready for the paint shop but I will need daylight for spraying so I will delay that for warmer weather.
     
    She was `run in` today which showed her bouncing up and down on her front axle springing. So, I added `liquid lead` and sheet lead to her front end to balance her ride qualities.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    This evening I tested her fine movement with an AMR controller. Despite being a 37 year old kit with an open frame motor of `yesteryear` I`m quite pleased. She should be even better with a ZIMO MX 645 decoder.
     

  11. ROSSPOP
    I`ve virtually completed the superstructure and just have the front and rear steps to fit and the cab backplate to assemble.
     

     
    Before all that it is time to complete the chassis. I messed up with the coupling rod and ended up with a badly binding mechanism and this was solved by opening the front axle rod to an oval hole .
     

     
    So, before moving forward with it ,wheels and motor were set up to day for a thorough test of build so far...................
     

     
    The plan for this week is then fully detailing the chassis.......................................................
     
    So, chassis completed ( less brake blocks to enable wheels to come off for painting) and all that is left is to fit the dome valves and add a rear edge to the cab roof and then body and chassis are done.
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     


  12. ROSSPOP
    I think I should have rested longer before starting another kit, but I sold an old favourite model to pay for this one so I felt obliged.
     
    Anyhow, my Johnson 1P tank loco needed a mate so I chose a plain old shunter.
     
    Although this is an earlier kit from Slaters (1984) it was more challenging than the 1P (1985)
     
    The coupling rods are a steel etched fret and is more challenging to solder .
     

     
     
     
    But as ever I start with the coupling rods.
     

     
     
     
    And then the fold up chassis frames and hornguides.
     

     
     
     
    The result is an accurately aligned chassis. I learnt from the previous kit to chamfer the front face of the bearings to prevent the corners catching on the backs of the driving wheel spokes.
     

     
    Now the chassis wheelbase measures out to an accurate 7` 4`` x 7` 8`` However, I was aware when I had finished the coupling rods that they were 7` 5`` x 7` 8``
     
    So, ` did I fall or was I pushed` It might of been a wandering blunt drill bit when I initially drilled the coupling rod etch, or a discrepency with the etches accuracy.
     
     
     
    It was back to the workshop.
     

     
     
     
    where I used the old 1980`s trick of filing an oval hole to solve the very severe binding front rods.
     

     
     
     
    I`m not happy with the solution, but it seems to have solved the problem. I might, however, purchase replacement rods...........
     

     
     
     
    The superstructure has some novel idiosyncrasies..... the side tanks and bunker are assembled as seperate units which then bolt on to the footplate..... this should help with detailing the cab backplate later on.......
     

     
     
     

     
    There is, as before,a very thick and heavy boiler to work with but this time it didn`t need the soldering of smokebox to boiler. These were able to be made as seperate units and just telescoped together.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    There is some fettling required to get the boiler to fit between the tanks as the milled flats are too short and need to be filed further forward.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    As this loco is an open cab version I`ve treated her to a Laurie Griffin backplate set.......
     

     
    Most of the superstructure sheeting has been half etched to provide some of the angled beading ............. and as a result there has been some heat distortion when soldering on the top edge beading strips........ unusually this was the hardest part to do so far...........
     

     
     
     
    The biggest issue has been keeping everything square during soldering up.
     

     
    Not for a long time have I snapped a drill leaving the end firmly lodged in the smoke box. Unable to extract it I drilled a small crater around it , filled it with solder and levelled off.....then drilled another handrail knob hole..............
     
    don`t think you can see it................
     

     
    Again I fettled the whitemetal door and improved on the hinge detailing as I did with the 1P.
     
     
     

     
     
     
    mmmmhhhh! That dome ain`t right!! I replaced it with one from Hobbydevelpment range because I was`nt happy with the pitting on the one supplied with the kit, but on second thoughts this one is too big and the sides should be more upright and less slanty !!! so will be replaced with the one supplied as the shape is much more accurate.........
     

     
     
     
    Oh well upwards and onwards........
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     


     
     
     
     
     


  13. ROSSPOP
    I`ve learnt to make a loco kit or two since the 1970`s but still hate the thought of making wooden staircases. So , whilst searching for my copy of J R Hartley`s book on fly fishing....... somebody remind me which TV add that came from !!
     
    I came across some pics of most,not all, of my staicase signal box journey......
     
    Don`t know about you , but I`ve mostly used and adapted plastic or etched windows and also the same for staircases, either butchering Ratio, Prototype(card kits) offerings from varius kits.....
     

     
    Way back in the 1980`s I shrank a ratio signal box kit to emulate a more LSWR offering.... It only needed three steps on to the platform...... yes that is a famous working Jidenco LSWR railcar !!! remember those !!
     
    I`m still searching for pics of a model of the original Swanage signal box I made next...........
     
     
     
    Then on to The Brighton . This was the first layout to be completed of "Devil`s Dyke". D&S Models produced some etched 4mm LBSCR windows and these were used on the signal box the rest of which was in plasticard.
     

     
    I was , of course, stumped when it came to making a model of `Cole` SDJR signal box. These had to be fabricated and somewhere I read an article on using Acrylic glazing sheets and WHSmiths`s white sticky back labels which are layered and cut out with a scalpel !!!!
     

     
    I think this was the first time I needed to make a `gessometer` working drawing from limited photo`s.......
     

     
    The staircase was a pain to get square.......
     

     
    Still pinching parts from Ratio though as the valence is theirs........!!!! The last 4mm signal box build.
     
    In 2008 I moved into 7mm modelling planning to utilise the embryonic RTR brass loco offerings. Way back then it was still possible to find real quality bargains on ebay.
    In an effort to save time, I snapped up this signal box bargain made by forum member Gravy Train. Ive still got it , an excellent piece of 7mm modelling, saving me the trouble of making another staircase and awaiting use on a small diorama idea I have fermenting away !!!

     
    Had the likes of Minerva , Lionheart, and dare I say Dapol been available then I would have stayed with RTR. So it has been back to building my own.
    Back to using etched windows from Phoenix range to try my hand at 7mm scratch builds and another staircase!!!
     

     
    My recent dabblings in things MR/LMS has had me trying laser cut mdf kits.
     
    This is a Lasercraftdevon now taken over by Rail Model kit. Very accurate , very nice kit to build. Painted all the components before assembly.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     


     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    Finally saved me from having to make my own windows and staircases.... Is this the way forward??
     
    Just a little bit more finishing off to do.....
     
    Will this be the last signal box build ?......
     
    .I doubt it !!!!!
  14. ROSSPOP
    ........... So, lining and lettering have taken ages..............
     
    For the glazing I like acrylic sheet 0.5mm from Yorkmodels as it`s easy to score and snap.
     
     

    I lay it in place and gently flood the edges with watered down Glue an Glaze.
     
    Leaves a clear tough bond with no overspill on the front of the model.
     
     

     
     

     
    Perseverence roof is a vac formed moulding which needs trimming to fit...... never was an an easy task.
     
     

    Not a perfect job but I`m glad that task is done. Just the vacuum pipes to fettle and fit , so she should be finished this weekend........
     
     

  15. ROSSPOP
    Now that the motor/chassis fits well to the superstructure, it has been time to complete the chassis build.
     
    No real issues here. I could only use two of the supplied sandbox castings, for the leading pair, as the kit really only caters for the very early loco version.
     

     
    I used a dental burr to fabricate a hole for the sprung buffer shanks.
     

     
    I sourced a more accurate pair for the trailing boxes
     
    The only other addition to the chassis kit was for a better representation brake rod adjuster.
     

     
    The kit has some nice brake gear lost wax castings.
     

     

     
     
     
    The main driver axle springs are plastic and fit into the etched holes in the chassis sides. I found that the springs fowled the keeper plates so I removed their lugs and will glue in place during the painting stage.
     
    The pickups will be fitted at the final assembly.
     

     
    I intend to experiment with chemical blackening ...................
     


     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

  16. ROSSPOP
    The curve in the roof is not too severe so it has been fairly easy to bend to shape and fashion a removeable set up......
     

     


     

    The prototype has wooden buffers sandwiched between steel buffer plates. The kit supplies 20thou plasticard. I would have liked wood but didn`t have anything suitable to hand, so added extra thickness to mine and used my favourite `Gorrilla` to assemble it all....... I hope it is robust enough. I then used 100deg low melt to solder the rear plate to the chassis.
     

     
    I also did a bit of extra work on that Deeley door by beefing up the hinge detail.
     

     
    I made a bit of a `pigs ear` out of the rear coal rails due to the thickness of the etch, but I managed to get a square job done in the end.......
     

     


     
    The kit comes with a decent motor and gearbox. Panic set in as it seemed at first to be too tall for the application as Slaters often seem to upgrade and change their motor/gearbox production.
     

     
    So it was time for a dry run and one thing was blindingly obvious and that was that thick boiler casting needed a chunk removing........... thank goodness for carborundum discs !!!!!!
     

     

    Panic over as chassis and body make a well balanced model...........
     

     


  17. ROSSPOP
    Needed to give some thought as to how much cab detailing is to be fixed into place before the painting stage, as there will be difficulty in painting individual details once the cab sides and back are assembled.
     
    The cab floor will need to be glued in place before painting as it is impossible to drop it in past the narrower cab sides.
    The kit provides some very thin ply which I was concerned would warp during the scrubbing and cleaning preparation.
     

    So I first made a plasticard test piece. I preferred the look of ply so have decided to give it a coat of gloss varnish both sides to minimise any problems, although I wetted a test piece and no problems were encountered.
     
     
     
    I spent this afternoon assembling the cab sides and end, which I fitted guard irons to the windows.
     

     
    Basically , everything either side of the backplate is now fixed in place, the backplate is removeable to aid painting it.
     

     

  18. ROSSPOP
    The cab fittings are all lost wax but of varying quality.
     

     
    Some I have put to use......
     

     

     
    These I have replaced from the HobbyDevelopment range.
     

     
     
     
    The instructions for the kit have a hand drawing of a 1P cab details arrangement. I based mine on photographs.
    What I am after is a `busy` looking cab as the cab sides are quite open and the view of the controls is fairly prominent.
     

     

     
    More still to be done..........
  19. ROSSPOP
    A most awkward and troublesome kit. I can understand now why I spent those years in the early 1980`s trying to make all those 4mm etched Jidenco loco kits, it was to prepare the way for making this model in 7mm.............
     
    I had previously seen a few made by others and felt there was some potential for the kit and I had always fancied a 1930`s GWR diesel railcar also known as a `flying banana`.
    I knew it was likely to be a challenge and I had never worked with resin in a kit before, particularly resin and brass etch and the joining of the two together !!!!
     
    At least it is a complete kit with wheels, motor and seating.......
     
    Well, It certainly was`nt going to require sprung axles so a start with making a working powered bogie was the first step.
     

     
    The first surprise was that the etched holes were far too big for the bearings supplied. Luckily some left over bearings from the previous JM loco kit were a better fit.
     
    The motor suppled needs a worm gear attached to both shaft ends to power both axles, not an over easy task to get set up without motor and gear `growl`
     

     
    The bogies comprise of an inner frame to which the outer framing forms the dummy side frames. At this early stage I was aware that the one side insulated axles would give me a `` live`` frame which is a potential area of concern with DCC, but not impossible.
     

     
    By carefull adjustment and gentle running in I ended up with a fairly quiet powered bogie as per the instructions.
     

     
    The outer framework needed tidying up with files and extra rivet details were added using pictorial reference. The white metal castings were of reasonable quality and were superglued in place.
     

     

     
    The brackets are to be a nut and bolt attachment to the main chassis frame.
     
     
     
    Pickups are phospher bronze strip with a round brass contact point soldered on.
     

     
     
     
    The chassis as designed proved to be too weak and prone to bending. Because the body work is 75% resin along its entire length, the chassis needed strengthening. Also, the ride height of the bogies was far too high and the chassis needed lowering over the bogie centres by at least 5mm.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
    As already mentioned the body is made up of resin ends and roof with etched brass sides and internal dividers.
     
    The ends are reasonably square and robust.
     

     
    But...... the roof sections have warped badly ( 1985 KIT) .
     

     
    I used several immersions in very very hot water and some judiscious tweeking to straighten them out.
     

     
    A dry run indicated potential weaknesses in the construction.
     

     
    And so I used brass rod spigots as a strengthening method.
     

     
    The etched sides were rolled to the same profile as the resin ends and attached to the resin roof and ends with superglue.
     

     
    However, the resin roof sections over the next week gradually returned to their bowed shape and began to detach from the etched sides.
     

     
     
     
    There is not much of a surface area between the brass sides and the edge of the resin roof sections to make an effective bonding surface.
     

     
    So my solution was to drill holes in the top edge of the brass sides and push through some interference fit brass rods, which would be soldered to the brass sides and fixed by Araldite to the inside of the resin roof sections.
     

     

     
     
     
    With the sides now securely fixed I could think about fitting the central and end doors which are recessed into the sides. Here , the kit is a shambles, with poor draughtmanship and etching. The kit suggests keeping the sides fairly flat when in reality they are curved at the lower edges , as are the doors.
     

     
    This all required a lot of filling and shaping with Green Stuff filler. The roof joins also needed filling and carefull sanding to maintain the correct profile. I used thin guaged wire to tidy up the roof above the central sliding doors. I also went to a lot of effort to solder on a moulding strip along the top, middle and bottom of the sides to improve the look of the model and match the moulding on the resin ends.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    There is a great deal of work to be done in tidying up the sides and roof. Once this was done I moved on to detailing the roof.
     

     
    The kit provides white metal roof vents and these need to be seated on square bases which I fabricated from plasticard.
     
    I also spent time in fitting the ATW cable,added in the 1930`s, and conduit to add some much needed roof detail.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    She was now beginning to look like a reasonable model.
     

     
     
     
    Some final detailing added...... guard irons to bogies which I fabricated from some angle strip.
     

     
    I tried to track down some decent brass horns but in the end had to tidy up what was supplied in the kit.
     

     
    The seats over the diesel engines are higher, so all this I fabricated from plasticard to keep the weight down as I felt by this time she was getting very heavy for a single motored model.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have organised the model to have a removable chassis with seating attached.
     

     
     
     
    After a thorough clean up, I proceeded to the painting stage. My usual preference is to prime with Phoenix/Precision two part primer.
     

     
    For this project however, I needed a primer that was a little thicker and for this I always use Teroson available from C&L. Expensive perhaps but always reliable.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    I also use Tamiya masking tape products, particularly their tapes with attached plastic sheeting.
     
    This project would need a lot of masking !!!!
     

     
     
     
    Here she is basking in the sunshine outside my `erecting shed` in her first coat of GWR cream.
     

     
    I have learnt the hard way , that you need to leave each finished coat of paint at least a five day week before re-masking for the next.
     

     
    You also need to use quality masking products.
     
    For this project I needed to mask for the GWR Cream, Chocolate, White and Black, so that took one month in summer !!!
     

     
    In the 1930`s some of these Railcars had either a two shades of white roof, or as in this model a central black painted section.
     

     
     
     

     
    Then it was out with the lining pen and transfers..........
     
    Don`t you just hate being watched while you work?
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    Well having purchased HMRS GWR coach pressfix decals I was annoyed that there are not enough to complete two sides of a railcar !!!!!
     

     
     
     
    I used plasticard strip to fabricate the wooden slatted blinds that you can just make out in photos.
     

     
    I also used plasticard for the white sun shades on the driving end windows.
     

     
    I prefer to use Yorkmodels Acrylic Clear glazing sheets..... expensive but very easy to scribe, snap and shape. Affixed to the model with Glu`n Glaze.
     

     
    A final coat of satin varnish and more plasticard fabrication for the roller blinds fitted to the windows in the 1930`s.
     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    I have now fitted her with DCC Sound.
     
     
     

  20. ROSSPOP
    At the time I started this kit, no one else made a 93XX Mogul. From what I had researched other modellers had made quite a decent example of the type.
     
    I was aware that the etches were well researched and produced but lacked a lot of rivet detailing. With the exception of the chimney and sefety valve, I replaced all the white metal detailing parts with those produced by HobbyDevelopments, including the tender springs and axle boxes.
     
    As is my preferred modus operandi , I started with coupling rods and roller bearing hornblocks to produce a sprung chassis.
     

     

     

     
     
     
    With this kit the cylindr blocks and crossheads were very well produced and needed no replacements.
     
    After soldering on the hornblocks I added cast white metal loco springs from HobbyDevelopments.
     
    Power was to be from a Mashima 1833 and fold-up 40-1 gearbox.
     
    The frames provided made a very substantial chassis assembly. The front bogie was a very nice fold-up etch.
     
     
     
    The etches are quite a thick gauge so some parts benefit from annealing to make bending easier.
     

     
    I slowly built things up from the footplate and added extra rivet detailing by referring to photographs.
     

     

     

     
     
     
     
     
    The firebox is mostly devoid of detailing and so this was fabricated by me and from parts from Peter Roles Components.
     

     

     

     

     
     
     
    Interestingly the smokebox saddle was detailed with 14BA screws and nuts supplied in the kit.
     

     
     
     
    Fettling was required to get the boiler unit seated correctly.
     

     

     
     
     
    From here on in it was down to slowly building up the extra detailing .
     

     

     

     

     
     
     

     
     
     
    The cab backplate was superdetailed with scale fittings
     

     
    I did`nt document the tender construction. The rivets were pre etched on the rear of the sides to help with the rivetting. I sprung the centre axle.
     

     
     
     
     
     
    Spray painted using Phoenix etch primer and GWR colours with a satin varnish. Plates by SevernMill.
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    I have also fitted DCC sound.
     
     
     


  21. ROSSPOP
    The very first 7mm etched brass effort. Snapped up on Ebay complete with Slaters wheels.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Certainly for locomotives , I am a follower of the principles of sprung hornblocks as a means of maintaining good electrical contact with the track, smoother movement through pointwork and track joints between baseboards and more importantly for me at least, springing enhances the `weight and shear presence` of a loco on the track by drastically reducing the wobbles of a fixed chassis. I have been convinced in 4mm modelling and so this was to be an essential element in my 7mm constructions.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I have always been used to the Kean Maygib plastic hornblocks in 4mm, but could`nt get as much precision with regard to movement with the brass bearings in the 7mm version made by Slaters.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I eventually came across these roller bearing hornblocks by HobbyHolidays that enabled me to continue with using a MetalSmiths axle jig to accurately set up coupling rods to hornblocks. Such a simple way to quickly assemble a trouble free working chassis mechanism and ridding the loco building universe from timewasting trying to find that elusive `binding` nightmare of a wonky chassis.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The Scorpio kit was designed as a `beam compensated` chassis, but I`ve never been totally successfull at building one.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Obviously, consideration has to be given to cutting out the hornblock positions. I usually base this around where the kit has got its bearing holes positioned in order to maintain the correct axle height, particularly in rgard to connecting rods and GWR crossheads.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The chassis frames provided are accurate and have plenty of rivet detail to be added.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Assembling the cylinder blocks and crossheads was hampered by the way the kit was organised. The crosshead castings are lost wax and poorly cast. They needed a lot of fettling and still looked wrong.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The cylinder wrappers need annealing to make forming to shape more maneagable. The vacuum pump is a solid whitemetal casting but I fabricated a replacement from brass tubing to make it a working pump even though it is tucked up under the loco valence.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    You can see the wonky crosshead castings more clearly on this pic. I later disguised things by adding further detailing from the excellent parts from Peter Roles Components.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    To keep costs down I opted for a Mashima 1833 motor and fold up gearbox. If set up properly it will produce good performance, particularly with DCC control. Clearance is tight between the crossheads and leading crankpin. I shortened the Slaters bearing and made the coupling rod bearing hole a little thinner.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The basic chassis completed and performing very well.  
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I invested in a MetalSmith rivetter as there are many pre-etched rivets to form in the superstructure.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    No problems with assembling the footplate and valence.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Care to be taken in making sure chassis and footplate are square before soldering the captive nuts in place. The more decerning modeller will not be happy with the cylinder block profile as the angle of the block is too severe.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    A fairly easy assembly of the superstructure, there was a poor fit between the saddle and smokebox that needed extra time and thought to solve.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The rear corners and rear top section are lost wax castings of average quality, but a good fit. I always find lost wax more difficult to fettle if not right.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The firebox is at least two millimetres too long and so the cab front plate sits too far into the cab. I did`nt know this at the time, but I had decided on `no heroics` and made the kit as it came.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    The roof is designed to be removable to be able to detail the cab and is a fiddle to get to sit correctly.  
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Detailing parts are a mixture of lost wax and white metal and all need tidying, however, the kit is well provided for. The chimney is probably too small and the safety valve cover leans forward.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Overall, it eventually makes up into an attractive model if you persevere.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    I use Phoenix/Precision two part etch primer to ensure that detailing is not buried under too thick a layer of primer. Precision paint was from a fifty mil tin I purchased in the 1970`s !!  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Cab details are provided for in the kit (not the figures).  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    Finished with Phoenix/Precision satin varnish.  
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

    This what I think differentiates between some RTR and Kits........ you don`t get those nice wafer thin metal edges in plastic models........  
     
     


    I have fitted her with DCC sound.......  
     
     


  22. ROSSPOP
    Before final fixing in place of the boiler there have been some extra work needed. This has comprised making a frame for push-pull fittings obtained from Laurie Griffin, replacing the Johnson whistle with a better example, and fettling a better sanding gear.........
     
    The kit provides very basic sanding gear parts..........
     

     

    So I fettled my own version based on photo evidence........
     

     
     
     

     
     
     

    The push- pull frame I made from some spare brass sheet...........
     

     


     
     
     
    And finally the whistle, which I replaced and modified to fit.
     


     
     
     
    The boiler is now fixed in place.......
     


  23. ROSSPOP
    I`m impressed with the fit accuracy of the parts, but there is not much lee way when it comes to tidying up the edges of individual parts. I`m finding that with the slightest of tidying up you can easily make some parts a tad too small.
     
    I ended up with todays work preferring to make my own frame extensions to give more generous proportions and to add some rivets that are not catered for in the kit..............
     

     
     
     
    As you can see, I should`nt have bothered to tidy the sides of the cylinder cover, cos now I`ve got to fill the gaps !!!
     

     
    I hav`nt bothered with replacing the smoke box door either, I spent an enjoyable hour with files and wire wool cleaning her up.... filed of the awfull central loco number plate.
     
     
     
    Anyhow I`m much happier with her smokebox `face` now
     

     
    Before I finished for my tea and currant bun , I removed all excess metal behind the wheel splashers to prevent electrical shorting later on.....
  24. ROSSPOP
    I sat and counted today, that I have made twenty four 4mm loco kits and including this project eight 7mm loco kits over a 40 year modelling journey. Only a Gibson 4mm loco kit that I never made was supplied with a turned brass boiler until this Slaters kit......... what a heavy beast !!!!
     

     
    The instructions suggested using Araldite to make up the smoke box around this beast of a piece of brass, but I set out to use solder. I marked out some reference points on the smoke box front and boiler top, then riveted the smokebox wrapper.
     

     
    This needed plenty of heat, so out with the flame thrower. I used solder paste, but it was`nt man enough in the solder or flux content to make a bond. So....................
     
    Plan B was to use a seperate flux and my favourite low melt solder...........
     

     
    This has worked very well......
     

     
    To make things easier I annealed the smokebox wrapper which made a much better fit around the boiler...
     

     
     
     
    I was then able to proceed and finish the soldering with an 80watt iron.
     

     
     
     

  25. ROSSPOP
    Everything is progressing gradually......... Slaters use a thicker gauge metal for most of the superstructure, so it has needed an 80wattt iron for plenty of heat. Most of the bending area has been etched thinner, but not all. Having said that it is a well thought out kit and its a great help having all the beading pre etched. The slot and tab accuracy is really good and it has all fitted together well...........
     

     
     
     

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