Pete22

Hi all, Is there any way that the Z21 can work with a Windows tablet ? to control locos & points etc .., the operating system in my tablet is Windows 10. Many thanks, Pete

Hi,? The Ace seems like a very promising DCC control box, are there any plans to allow it to connect & run with PC layout control software like JMRI or RocRail ? Thanks, Pete

Hi All, I rather fancy buying a Piko Smart Control starter set, but I seek some advice.. (maybe Dogmatix - as above- still has one so perhaps can help ?). May I ask for opinions/ information on the following :- 1. Which make/model of walk-about controller can be used with the Smart box ? - I don't want to pay a lot more by adding another wireless hand-held unit. 2. If any wired walkabouts exist, (surprisingly Piko & ESU don't seem to market one !) does it need to connect into the LNET socket ? - therefore the same plug connection is required. 3. Is the LNET socket working now ( I saw a note somewhere that it would be at some point, after a firmware update). 4. Would a separate walkabout / wired controller allow fully independent / simultaneous control of a 2nd loco, so allowing 2 to be controlled at once ? 5. Does the unit have a SHORT protection system built in ? Too many questions I know, but if I can get a better overall picture, it will make my choice much more informed ! - cos it ain't cheap .. My plan would be to buy one and use it with probably RocRail software. This set-up would replace my Hornby Elite & Railmaster system (I hope !!)... Many thanks in advance.. Pete..

Hi, Yes wheels / everything is very clean now...rebuilt it today and going to test it soon. Here is a pic of my new pickups (also an excuse to see if I can upload a photo !) Peter...

Well , If Bachmann are indeed fitting all their new diesel locos with this type of pickup, than I will not be buying any more, if I can help it. I have spent hours cleaning the grease out, degreasing all the electrical parts & contacts, making new pickups and soldering them, fiddling with alignment & tension of the said pickups...........enough !! Peter.

Hi Rob, Thanks for your help & advice. I removed the 2nd bogey tonight and it all seems ok, just that the screw was not nearly turned into the hole enough. I experimented with using meths as a solvent to clean the grease out, then I tried Isopropanol, but it is not a good solvent for the grease, so I ended up using some industrial liquid hand cleanser with a stiff model paint brush - this worked a treat and has dissolved the grease, just needed to rinse in warm water & dry afterwards.. I am now soldering extra wheel contacts (bit of a job) and I hope to finish it all in a couple of days time. What a great shame that all this extra work is required to make the model run correctly............Bachmann should be paying me for my time ! Cheers , Peter.

Hi Rob, No I won't over tighten the screws. When I took the body off, both bogeys seemed very loose, so starting with the driver end I was able to turn the screw 2 or 3 turns before I felt it nip. However when I tried to tighten the other bogey (it was very loose also), I was able to turn the screw 4 or 5 turns !, so on inspection I noticed that the screw head was disappearing / screwing itself down into the screw hole in metal body of the loco. It appears that there is no machined lip in the metal body that will contact with the underside of the screw head...i.e. the body screw hole is just a vertical hole with nothing to stop the whole screw going up & down in it. I have yet to remove this 2nd bogey, spent the evening cleaning the 1st one, what a mess, Bachmann did not spend much time cleaning the gears/cogs out of old grease. The drive shaft - someone mentioned in this long thread, that to ensure easy re-connection, they turn the shaft (and presumably the motor end coupling) to be at 6 / 12 o'clock. Unfortunately my motor & drive shaft have separated almost horizontally, so I am worried about re-connection. Any ideas on how to turn the motor to the 6/12 vertical position ? Thanks, Peter

Well, I read the concerns on this thread about Bachmann Mauretania, so I tried mine again recently and it runs very badly indeed. I have now taken the body off and firstly tried tightening the top bogey screws, 1 tightens up well & seems ok, but the other (on the non-driver end) does not, as the screw just seems to go further & further into the body of the loco / bogey ! is this normal ? Anyway I removed the driver end bogey and unclipped the bottom gear cover. It appears that there is still far too much grease on the gear cogs and wheel axles, so I intend to try submerging this in meths to hopefully dissolve the grease... I may also try adding some extra pickups, but I only have Romford 3/64th wide PB strips to hand, is this not too narrow for a reliable pickup ? Will let you know how I get on.. Thanks, Peter

Thanks Steve, My 1st drills were Microbox (in a blue box) but I can't get them to drill anything. I then bought packs of 10 by another make, and these are a real joke, badly shaped tips viewed under a magnifying glass etc. I read somewhere that Dormer are good, and probably Heller also - problem is these are all very expensive. This leads me to asking about the tungsten carbide PCB drills as seen on the net. They can be obtained for circa £5 per pack of 10 (0.3 to1.2mm in eack pack) and I would expect they are very sharp !, only problem is being carbide they won't bend at all, so a drilling stand & lots of care is needed. I spoke with the buyer at the company that I bought the last drills from, interestingly he said all these cheap drills are made in "drill city" in China, and that there is virtually no quality control at any of these factories, it's just pot luck if you get a good set or not. Think I may buy a set of the carbide PCB drills....... I will let you know how they perform. P.

Hi Steve, Can you advise on a good brand of mini drills to use ...which make/source to you favour ? I have tried the usual cheap drills, but I find they won't even drill through a thin brass etch. Also, have you tried the mini carbide drills that are meant for drilling PCB's ? Please advise if you can... Thanks, P.

Hi , Will this model run ok on 2nd radius curves ?, my layout has only 2nd & 3rd rad curves. I have the green sound version (32-480DS Class 40 diesel D211 'Mauretania') on pre order since Dec 2010 and it would be a pity after waiting all this time !!!!!!! Can anyone try it on a 2rd rad curve and let me know ?? - as presumably I can still cancel my order... Many thanks, P.