warren haywood

A strange looking loco, a Highland Railway Skye Bogie built by Laurie Griffin from the Shedmaster kit

Hi David Just un wrapped it, very nicely built

Gareth, Crests will be small both early or later, numbers for eastern locos are generally 10" but as always check the prototype as some may differ

Very nice Simon, brilliant detail for something so small

Hi Larry The red lines cannot be seen when viewed normally, however as you state, they somehow change the colour of the yellow making it look more golden. The camera doesn't help it makes the red stand out too much I definitely think it's worth doing in 7mm

These are now finished, except glazing which will be fitted by the builder. This has to be the most stunning coach livery. I love it so much I've bought myself a pair.

It's just common old bs224 deep bronze green, just about the same as pp GWR green and fractionally yellower than their BR green. Easy to tint to match if needed although the colour has never been questioned.

Hi Deano, 99% of my jobs are done using cellulose so are lacquered using a gloss clear celly lacquer. This is sprayed at high pressure lightly to give a finish slightly glossier than satin. If I want a matter finish I can increase the amount of lacquer in the mix and increase the pressure. For glossier it's a matter of less pressure and less lacquer. If I need to use a polyeurathane varnish I go with Ronseal hardglaze in gloss with a little matting agent added. I don't like the satin or Matt versions as they are a little inconsistent and also have a gritty/sparkly texture. It is possible to use cellulose lacquer over an enamel painted loco but needs practice. Cheers Warren

Here's a DJH Brit I built and painted a couple of years ago, just taken a commission to do another although it may be some time before its finished!

No probs mate

Get off the computer and get some modelling done;-)

Ha ha, just wiped them off, wasn't 100% happy.

Hi Peter, The ruling pen is a Haff, it's just short and firm enough not to close up, but I've had it a good 10years now and am used to it. I do have a Kern with shorter blades which I use when the ruler or rest is up away from the loco. Horses for courses, but at approaching 7500 locos painted I'm slowly getting the hang of it :-) I have another haff pen with hardened tips which is a little sharp for my liking but still draws an extremely thin and consistent line. I have three sets of compasses, my favourite are by Reifler, I also have deitzgen and kern ones all for different applications. I notice your in Leeds, feel free to pop round for a demo any time, I'm in Wakefield. Cheers Warren

This evening I have made a start on the lining, pre 1906 GWR lining is only 1.5" wide so scaled for 7mm it is less than 1mm wide. Not the best photo and the lines look distorted and a bit messy, phone cameras for you :-( Tomorrow I will line the slashers and cabside.

On with these at the moment, 7mm kits from sidelines superbly built by Graham Varley. All good fun especially the vermillion either side of the yellow....................not!!

Peter I also use humbrol no 85, it just needs a stirring well but the areas that are brushed on are quite small. It may take a couple of coats though. Anything larger than a splasher top I would mask up and spray. The black is added to the green to create Holly Green which is the shade used from 1880's to 1906. After 1906 the shade changed to the lighter chrome green, bs224 matches this closely.

This mornings work has been to spray the black areas except splasher tops which will be brush painted after lining and also the tender interior. Once the black had hardened off after a couple of hours I masked up and sprayed the holly green areas. This is basically 80% deep bronze green and 20% black. This afternoon I will tidy the brass beading

Hi Adrian Moved on since then, as I'm trying to get continuity with Bracks and Ian Rathbone the Indian red is a little more purpley to what I had before but even then the colour was never disputed. It's pretty much the same two colours with some Crimson lake added.

It's a cellulose I've mixed with various colours to match SECR Indian red.

It's owned by Andy Beaton of Ragstone models. I know it's for sale if it isn't already sold.

The primer was applied yesterday and allowed 24hours to cure, this morning I have sprayed the Indian red areas. The bogie and tender frames are acceptable so the paint was scraped from the brass beading. There are one or two minor dust specs in the paint on the loco frames so these areas will be rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry and respray ex. Once I'm happy with that the paint can be removed from the splasher beading. Tomorrow onto the black areas. Although there is not much to see, here is the current situation

Thanks Larry I know what you mean, but it's a living and I tend not to turn work down. Bracks and Ian Rathbone are now passing customers onto me so I'm managing to keep fairly steady. Done a fair bit for Pete aswell and he is kind enough to recommend me to people who ask him.

Ok, here goes with the Armstrong First job is to take the thing to bits, when painting it's preferable to have as many sub assemblies as possible. The way MOK design their kits with painting in mind is excellent. Now I will spend an hour or so checking edges and cleaning off any excess solder, but knowing who built this one that shouldn't be an issue. I will also polish any brass beading which will aid paint removal after each coat. I don't bother to mask the beading as the mask edge will be uneven, I just scrape it off with one or two custom made tools. Once I am happy with the state of the model it will be given a good clean, first with bar keepers friend which has scouring properties and shifts most of the crud. I follow this with a scrub with viakal. The final act after a good rinse in water is to rinse it in cellulose thinners which dissolves any grease from fingers. The model is now ready to accept primer which will be applied as soon as the model is totally dry.

Hello all, great show at Bristol this year and picked up a few commissions I wasn't expecting. I'm just about to start painting an MOK Armstrong, which will be my third with another two booked in for later in the year. Here are one or two pictures of a completed one, I shall post pictures of the new job as I go along

Two more commissions recently completed, 7mm scale Mitchell castle and a GER F5, a very cruel closeup of the lettering which is handpainted, although that buffer head needs touching up