Dominion

Hi Mel, I just sent you a scan of the rest of the booklet by PM. Hope you find some CVs you want to tinker with :-)

Hi Mel, I have just sent a scan of the rest of the manual. the first few pages have colour. The rest is black and white. Tom

Have sent you PM with a scan of the function page for now. Can send rest tomorrow if you still need. Have fun with it. Tom

I can look for mine tomorrow for you

I think there is a dialogue box that does allow you to do exactly that when you load changes onto the chip. If you use it I suggest you do 2 other things. Save a version that you know works before you change defaults, perhaps the factory default, so you can overwrite your new planned default with the original default if anything goes wrong. Second, istr that the button remains clicked so there is a risk of doing the same thing next time without intending to, so I suggest unclicking it explicitly once you are done. Good luck !

I almost certainly have some too, I am also in Ontario. Can you describe or post a photo and I will see how many I have. I see BR60103 is in Guelph which I guess is closer for you. Tom

I would also suggest reading John's (Hayfield's) thread. I have found it full of practical how to information.

I have done many of that type. I use the long box mount offset types 21 , or 31, or 141. Mounted over the existing post in the existing box the length is good. I also introduce a slight bend at the mounting end of the shaft to lift the coupler head to standard height. The closure box clip does not quite hold the pivot up and flat so I use Kadee 10 or 15 thou fibre washers on the post between the coupler and the snap on coupler box lid. Hope that helps. Tom

What are people using for insulated joints ? I have tried 2 ways so far but would love something in between. The existing Peco code 75 flat bottom insulated joiners recommended by Peco look so big and out of place compared to the new nice metal ones. The Exactoscale H shaped ones are very fine. They are great when hand building on a template but I find a bit delicate when laying track on the baseboard.

If am assuming you want to use them in an analogue way and not DCC ? The power to the drive motor is normally left on, so not stud and probe as Sol says. However you don't have to leave the power on. I am using Peco passing contact lever switches for mine. However it only works if you hold the switch in the contact area for the entire duration of the turnout throw. I am running mine on about 6v DC and it take about 5 seconds to complete the throw. A little higher voltage would lead to slightly shorter time. You could do that with stud and probe but may not be the most convenient. If you are using them in digital mode, you can use momentary switches or stud and probe to trigger the whole operation as there are inputs into the DCC controllers specifically for that. However, that is a lot of clever electronics just to allow momentary operation. I think most people use some form of on-off-on switch. Either 2 pole DPDT wired to reverse the outputs or single pole but with dual polarity power feeds. For LEDs there are many interesting wiring diagrams on the DCC Concepts websites if you fish around. I use 456 to switch track power to the frogs and 789 are just the same, so you can use them for isolating sections or feeding power on and off to other switches for interlocking, or for signals, or for anything else you want a switch for. You could also use them for the LEDs but I think the website shows ways to power the LEDs from the previously used switch too if you have another use for 789

I suspect you know that there are some weathered ones currently available. Tom

The Dapol fruit wagon does measure 78 mm over headstocks and 44 mm axle centres, so a foot longer than the Y10 dimensions given by Miss Prism above, and 6 inches shorter wheel spacing than the Y10.

I also sent you a message. Tom

That looks promising. Many thanks for the link, I will try that. When I search for latex glue here I get glue for making latex clothing which is an entirely different hobby :-)

This page on the Hornby forum says that yours is actually equipped with a V4 chip, so is likely different to mine. https://www.Hornby.com/us-en/forum/a4-sound-decoder/?p=1

I had a quick flick through that longer manual and I do not see anything obviously helpful for the F9 function question that you have.

Last one on the list is a longer manual for the V3.5 than came with the model. https://www.Hornby.com/us-en/downloads/view/index/cat/31/

I just went and tried mine for you. I also do not see or hear a reaction to F9 while stationary, or at low speed.

The brakes aren't mentioned in the rest of the instruction sheet as far as I can tell, except for Marklin Zimo and Lenz systems. The F9 button is just a brake release sound I think and may not have any effect on the loco's motion. You are running on DCC I assume ? It says for more details on the chip go to "Loksound V3.5 Installation and Operating Manual" Failing that CV8 =8 is the reset function n the instructions.

I have the Hornby sheet in front of me. F1 Sound on/off F2 Whistle F3 Coupler F4 Air pump F5 Injector F6 Shunting mode F7 Coal Shoveling F8 Conductors signal F9 Brake release F10 Whistle short 1 F11 Whistle short 2 It is indeed a Loksound V3.5 These are from "Herring Gull" R2805XS but I think yours was released not long after and very likely witht he same chip and sound files. Hope that helps. Regards, Tom

I am not at home right now but I have a factory fitted Hornby A4 sound. I can look when I get home if you haven't got a reply by then. From memory it is a Loksound V3.5 chip.

Thanks John. Unfortunately the stuff they sell here for laying flooring is quite different. Copydex is an aqueous latex solution and if the packaging here described the ingredients I could look for that, but they don't, so I have had to buy it and open it. Tried 2 types so far, neither like Copydex. I have also tried to get the Febond product (and admix) that Norman Soloman describes in his right track video, and again it is a completely different formulation here than the one he was using on the video. I believe Copydex may also be used for show repair, so i need to find a cobblers !

I will try diluted copydex next time if I can find it in Canada. I have heard that it remains flexible and so doesn't amplify the sound. I can't vouch for it yet though. Tom

Not enough, there were 79 of the full size versions :-)

For anyone that can't wait for the arrival of new Bachmann products, I just received a model that was new to me. It is a 7 plank PO wagon of Gardner of Norwich. It is a special commission from Bure Valley Models at the Bure Valley Railway. It was released in August last year. I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else so I thought I would give it a plug here. All sales from the shop support the narrow gauge railway which is operated as a not for profit. I have no connection, I am just very pleased with my new wagon. As most of us on this thread are keen to see new Bachmann models and as this one may not be well known I thought it OK to put on this topic, but if inappropriate I will remove it. I enclose a link to the wagon on their website here. http://www.burevalleymodels.com/p/15116/37-076R---7-plank-open-Gardner---BVR-Exclusive