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innocentman

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Posts posted by innocentman

  1. 32 minutes ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:

    I really like the flowing curves you’ve planned in for this layout - I hope they won’t affect coupling up.  Could I just ask what track you’re using for the layout for the non handlaid parts (if it’s mentioned anywhere I missed it, sorry)?  Thanks, Keith.

    Hi Keith,

     

    not sure if I did mention it earlier.

     

    All the track is Peco code 75. All the points are electro frog and modified so the the blades are live to the stock rails.

     

    Andy

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
  2. Thinking I could crack on a lay the mine track was a bit premature. I realised that I needed to install a section of board above the lower level to accommodate the mine yard throat.

     

    Having cut a bit of board, I planned out the point work across the baseboard joint so as to not have awkward joints.

    4409E0AE-985C-41AE-B5E0-0B6A5339894C.jpeg.535a43fc2a4b332f238b0724f7f106c6.jpeg

     

    Once I was happy with the positioning it was time to secure the first two points. At this stage the board was only secured or the other boards by a couple of clamps, so it was easier to remove the board to do the work on the bench.

    IMG_4297.jpeg.ac20812d8114ece41663ae4b4212e988.jpeg

     

    And then wire it all up…

    IMG_4298.jpeg.d46a3c06a2d048b40ce466f948676f86.jpeg

     

    This was then secured to the baseboard, no glue at the moment, in case I need to remove it for access below. The 15 way D connector was fitted into the baseboard end below the level of the adjoining board.

    IMG_4299.jpeg.1b3711c9bf300b205492dd5cb3564bd6.jpeg

     

    A total of 5 points laid today. Only 1 more at the other end of the loop to go in the mine area.

    IMG_4301.jpeg.184d828b6f3f6727830f39d445a3f1f2.jpeg

    IMG_4302.jpeg.9bbb67b5a91dfa75df15cc1e691fb148.jpeg

     

    I will have to sketch the mine loading building onto the board next so I don’t mis my marks as the tracck sweeps around the corner.

     

    Andy

    • Like 6
  3. It’s been a busy couple of weeks with work including a trip to Roskilde, Denmark where this NOHAB MY (GM 567 powered, same as an F7) diesel dating from the 1954 was lurking.

    IMG_4267.jpeg.fbaa853e060c6259d8aa8efa614a5a2c.jpeg

     

    DIY also last weekend so not much has happened. I have progressed as far as I can on the boards for the main yard, so it was time to have a look at the mine.

     

    After dropping the boards, I moved the master board towards the back of the garage and the erected the mine boards within the garage.

    IMG_4285.jpeg.4cc7ae6b27e8e8cd0d8966e644611b5d.jpeg
    IMG_4287.jpeg.dfd1ad27c64525fa0478c1a56584c0a1.jpeg

     

    I will transfer the track plan onto the boards and then I can start laying track again.

     

    Andy

    • Like 5
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  4. 49 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

    Were the two engines on Mallets always "in sync" like that or was it random?

    I’m not sure to be honest John.

     

    Given the way the front engine used the exhaust steam from the rear engine I think think they may have stayed in sync due to steam supply.

     

    If anyone knows the inner workings of articulated compounds and staying in sync or not I would be interested to hear.

     

    Andy

     

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  5. It’s been a while since I posted an update. Work trips and exhibitions have been the limiting factor. 
     

    when I did get chance I have been out in the garage. Cork has been laid for the main lines. 

    IMG_4172.jpeg.5b8c8b0836471955864941691e4f7734.jpeg
     

    And I remembered to install the Kadee electro magnets (just!).

    IMG_4174.jpeg.220fd199135f4436dade44e674cd48dd.jpeg
     

    IMG_4218.jpeg.5d9c5d8983ccac8f73686fd2a9525723.jpeg

     

    Having finished laying the track, I turned my attention to the underside of the board and completed the wiring.

    IMG_4217.jpeg.e3ff80b0565bfff006e44c9d7bccb2d1.jpeg

     

    The two circuit boards you can see are timer boards that operate the magnets. A push button on the panel activates the timer and switches on the magnet for a pre programmed time. It’s currently set for 6 seconds. I will see how we get on with this and adjust if necessary.

     

    And finally a test run of the “Donford Triangle”

     

     

    Andy

    • Like 4
    • Round of applause 3
  6. I have finally gotten around to give the track around the triangle area a bit of attention. I fixed point 16 and 17 in position first and then laid the link round to point 13.

     

    IMG_4171.jpeg.0e326e8cbc3ab68522ddab5654d59119.jpeg

     

    In preparation for the automatic polarity reverser, I created staggered insulated joints at both ends of the link. I also realised that the use of frog juicers at each end of the reversing section would probably not work with the auto reverser, a battle of polarity switching would likely occur. So it looks like for points 13 and 16 we go back to using a switch on the point motor to control the frog.

    46C28DD5-856A-4285-AF03-54B55033A9EC.jpeg.c0424611072843a1a3dc2efadc9ce297.jpeg
     

    And finally this evening, I moved the layout away from the wall and after a bit of marking out laid the cork to complete the main running lines to points 16 & 17.

    IMG_4172.jpeg.8d640bc745782aa167625f3f5bb1000b.jpeg

    IMG_4173.jpeg.d38b664f3bf31104652665e615f07c46.jpeg

     

    Hopefully I will get the links laid this week and wired up.

     

    Andy

    • Like 7
    • Agree 1
  7. A progress update from last weekend, well BH Monday.

     

    We have all the mine boards constructed and on Monday evening after our customary BBQ we erected the full 28 ft.

     IMG_4155.jpeg.a865474dbea6c8d0f6187518b5dd983c.jpeg
    Difficult to get a shot of the full length. 17 ft is inside the garage.

     

    A few more pictures of the Mine boards with the bricks and blocks used to support the legs on the falling ground.

    IMG_4156.jpeg.ae4c6bb4dfae61cb4633140615626bdf.jpeg

    IMG_4152.jpeg.7585a6a94e325f4e2913339f8360f7ee.jpeg

    IMG_4151.jpeg.cc110da7525a10c3eb444c0200028643.jpeg


    More work behind the scenes with the electrics having been carried out including the operation of the first two points in the fiddle yard in the picture above. These are operated by MTB MP1 point motors instead of Cobalts. Very easy to fit. All working from the main panel once I corrected a polarity issue. 
     

    Andy

    • Like 6
    • Round of applause 2
  8. Two more boards made so far this weekend.

     

    After a bit of discussion with my brother it was decided to add another three feet into the layout. So now it will be 28ft long. The reason was to improve the transition from the lower level to exit scene at the mine to start at 8 inch above the lower level.

     

    The exit now looks much better and has a nice curve with a bit of super elevation. A few pictures below. 
     

    IMG_4145.jpeg.10aa06e2c2c9a963a33bc482406cf22e.jpeg

     

    As the layout progresses further out of the garage, the ground falls away and currently we are using bricks lift the boards. Eventually we will construct bespoke blocks for each set of legs.

     

    IMG_4144.jpeg.d5ba5e7316511887bb9fe4c7da3ede36.jpeg

     

    You can just see the cant in the track in the picture below. This is achieved using strips of 10 and 20 thou plasticard under the outer edge of the track through the curve. This is a trick my brother has used before on his N gauge layout Headingley.

    IMG_4143.jpeg.6921d35df9b43381276b87fb3567b2c6.jpeg


    Another thing we tried was the use of a captive nuts to join baseboards together. In the case below we anticipated that joining the two new boards together would be an issue once the scenery has been applied.

    IMG_4149.jpeg.9c5a97ada981a5b7e7e48514aaa5380f.jpeg
     

    Hopefully a bit more progress and another mine board tomorrow 

     

    Andy

    • Like 7
    • Agree 1
  9. You may notice in the section above that we have the tracks crossing the baseboard joints at angles. These crossing points need to be strengthened and then cut. Below is a series of photos of how this is achieved.

     

    First up mark the section of sleeper that need to be removed and slice through the chairs

    IMG_4125.jpeg.082b88b233ca1154b104ad2f046fe213.jpeg

     

    Using a snap of blade craft knife carefully separate the sleeper from the cork.

    IMG_4126.jpeg.037d2c674fcb404946b274219bd52cb7.jpeg

     

    having gut through the webbing between adjacent sleeper sections push the section of sleeper out from under the rails. You will see the chairs have been left behind, these will be removed.

    IMG_4127.jpeg.88fbfe1519711f83648125be757a1c7f.jpeg

     

    I inserted a section of 40 thou black plasticised into the space left by the plastic sleepers. This is secured to the cork using superglue. The plasticard leaves a suitable gap for copper clad sleepers to be inserted

    IMG_4129.jpeg.ffa4d074299b0f832e1e9a5c24cbe461.jpeg

     

    The rest of the sleepers are inserted and spaced to match the original plastic ones. These are then secured using drops of thin penetrating superglue which wick under the sleepers.

    IMG_4132.jpeg.a93f8270762bd627766d1e6acf2910fd.jpeg

     

    The rails are then soldered to the sleepers and gapped

    IMG_4134.jpeg.7e5fb7fc9e1ef8043c7dd823856dda24.jpeg

     

    using a mini drill and slitting disk, the rails re cut in line with the baseboard joint.

    IMG_4135.jpeg.11416db37d6e33cbcb5117820ee188c4.jpeg

     

    The sleepers and plasticard are then cut using a razor saw

    IMG_4136.jpeg.f075ef474749aef7c518d7d44a995feb.jpeg

     

    And we end up with the joint as follows

    IMG_4137.jpeg.cff798205c696a9b0edc10c39d99914a.jpeg

     

    When it’s ballasted you won’t see the plasticard

     

    Andy

     

     

     

    • Like 7
    • Informative/Useful 3
  10. 13 minutes ago, Fordbank said:

    Back to Life!

    Never quite gave up, but the mojo certainly drained away.

     

    Now feeling the modelling motivation is coming back and after a two year "lull" I have been enjoying running the loco fleet to test out its ability to withstand a prolongued rest.

     

    Nice to see you back

    • Like 1
    • Agree 1
  11. No to much done over the weekend due to DIY and the England match. So it was only Sunday afternoon. After a bit of marking out I laid points 13, 14 and 15. Points 16 and 17 were also marked out but not laid.

    2B2731D1-023D-4A68-8E43-BC7A56870880.jpeg.a0f87ada0c26cf3495d3bc94f8667e95.jpeg

    The track was also laid from point 13 to 12.

     

    Back in there tonight and I managed to lay the adjacent track and the cork roadbed for the next one.

     

    IMG_4108.jpeg.fa7f1987c5e685acb65465e88bdb87ba.jpeg

    IMG_4109.jpeg.b8c3bb8bcc1ff125f8938476ce612ad2.jpegMight I I need to relocate boards a bit to give access down the front of the layout after laying the third loop so that I can reach the tracks at the front and lay them to points 16 and 17.

     

    That may have to wait until next week as my baseboard builder is over this bank holiday weekend so we will concentrate on board construction for a few days.

     

    Andy

    • Like 9
  12. 2 hours ago, lezz01 said:

    Wolfy Dave Basford does a chassis for the 3F that's very good. It isn't 100% right for a 4F but it'll do the job as it's an 8'x8'6" wheelbase. It can be built rigid or it has basic compensation it's also got brakes, coupling rods and sanding gear. He's K22009 on here or he sells his stuff on eBay, his eBay ID is farmerdave but I would contact him direct on here. 

    Regards Lez.

    I have built one of his 3F chassis kits and they are excellent. They come with good instructions and diagrams. Mine was a replacement for a mangled chassis under a Gibson 3F body I had, that I was upgrading to EM. 

     

    Andy

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 2
  13. It’s been a busy week or so with the builders working in the house and a bit more progress on the layout. 
     

    First up was the cross board DCC power pus connectors. After a bit of deliberation I opted for a Wago 5 way power connector rated at 13A a capable of accepting the 1 sq mm flex cable. 
    IMG_4068.jpeg.5a4b55c097f8500be91d6a117a87e8a1.jpeg

    I think these will do the job just nicely. 
     

    Then I moved on to finishing off the control panel and all out going connections. I used a bit of heat shrink in the legs of the LEDs to eradicate the chance of contact with other connections. 
    IMG_4064.jpeg.5da321f80efff8984a29408a0b8929a2.jpeg
    IMG_4065.jpeg.554348981ea8132551f23cac00850006.jpeg

    So this meant the wiring on the panel board was now complete from a track and point control perspective (there are a couple of push buttons for Kadee electromagnets down near points 16 &17 to add).

    IMG_4066.jpeg.e37a6f84aadfcb4ff04e1a46123243c9.jpeg


    Onto the fitting of point motors & wiring for the next board I thought. But I realised I still had a few points to lay. Out with the track laying tools and cork to get the last three points on this board laid.

    IMG_4074.jpeg.afa171b8ee9125ac14967e3e717145c0.jpeg

     

    Then it was onto the point motors and wiring which I installed over a day and half while the builders prevented access to the home office. I knew that would be the case so I used a couple of holiday days up.

     

    IMG_4084.jpeg.7396d69d08fe28ff3953b1defd0a29b5.jpeg

    That was finished Tuesday evening. Onward connections to the next board have also been completed so there should be no need to go under this board again.

     

    IMG_4088.jpeg.b2552115a629cfdec7b06a716847b0c0.jpeg

     

    I put the boards back up and tested the points and feedback LEDs. I would like to say everything worked first time but I did have wires for the LEDs for points 1-5 crossed with 6-10! 🤬. Any way all is right now as you can see above. 
     

    The builders have also finished and it wasn’t long before my cat Ziggy was trying to find the optimum position in front of the new log burner ready for winter (even though it wasn’t on)

    IMG_4093.jpeg.225837a54d2025648eea5de35e4e2ddf.jpeg

     

    Time to progress the track laying and wiring the other direction.

     

    Andy

    • Like 7
    • Agree 1
    • Round of applause 1
  14. It’s been a busy week at work, but I did find time to add a couple of bits to the new baseboards in the form a socket for a simple leg on the two cross board which will aid single person erection in the garage.

    B41A2FF0-3E13-436E-A60B-2F4C4478AAE6.jpeg.352aa8af353b9dab91c96d5471e76053.jpeg

     

    I also added a 2 inch extension to the edge of two boards for extended scenery away from the track edges.

     

    IMG_4061.jpeg.672625d2454a9a0c61fb2ab12dc1f902.jpeg

    3A7397B6-B75E-4751-A983-70181FDEA4E9.jpeg.7e8be67a68d673cb983177f6bda5e392.jpeg

     

    Onto electrics now.

     

    Andy

    • Like 5
    • Agree 1
  15. Another wet weekend in Morecambe, and so back to the garage too. On to the wire strangling.

     

    I could have adopted to run all the point motors and route indication via the DCC bus and numerous interface devices. These would have kept the wire quantities to a minimum. However I opted for direct control and feedback to the control panel and the 70 odd wires that will spread out like a spiders web across the layout.

     

    First up was creating the control panel. My method is to print out the design of the panel from the computer and sandwich it in between two sheets of 2mm acrylic sheet. 
     

    IMG_4020.jpeg.cdd8ff04f356a8bc67a7804e04435f59.jpeg

     

    What you are looking at above is the second version as when I tried to drill the switch holes I managed to crack the acrylic! 🤬 For version  2 I ditched the 6mm drill and switched to the step drill to create the holes.

     

    The panel is fixed directly to the baseboard (70 less connectors required). I constructed a mounting “box” on the baseboard top. If I have my dimensions correct, this should easily be below the level of the mine branch which runs directly above it. A cut out in the back scene will provide operator access. Suitable wire way access holes were cut in the board for easy access.

     

    IMG_4022.jpeg.65e7942fad5cf8b8791b7efe13a8f695.jpeg
     

    The points are switched using Cobalt Analogue IP motors. I bought a pack of 12 ages ago when a vendor was selling the for a really good price. These I control with a DPDT (on-on) switch to reverse the polarity of the feed to each motor.

     

    IMG_4027.jpeg.c16f629b6f2e0ffff2825278e7cc9776.jpeg

     

    I only had 8 switches in my stash. Some more will arrive later this week. 
     

    I had hoped to finish the connections out to the adjacent boards but time ran out and I have 20 wires to run to a D connector for the LED point indicator feedback for points 1 to 10. So final progress looks like this.

     

    IMG_4025.jpeg.8f003bf844c7278afdc6cdd523bd0d0e.jpeg

     

    I mount the D connectors on 3D printed mounting frames of my own design. These are fixed to the board using M3 pan head screws. Of you use a 2.5 mm hole in the base board the screws do quite happily screw into the wood. 
     

    IMG_4026.jpeg.7ef1f2dce5d2f36165fcae4f494684ae.jpeg

     

    The D connector will be secured to the mounting frame with post screws that allow the mating connector to be fixed using thumb screws in the connector hood.

     

    That’s it for now.

     

    Andy

     

    • Like 7
    • Informative/Useful 1
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