innocentman

Hi,

Can you tell me of your TOF2 WD TOP FEED is the standard version or the GWR version please. I'm looking to change out the GWR top feed on a Bachmann model from the GWR to the standard WD type

Many thanks

Andy

On 27/05/2021 at 17:29, Barry O said:

 

A frog needs rewiring then time to clean the track and regraphite it.

 

Turns out it was the wing rail that had become detached from the frog baseplate. The wing rail just happened to be the one with the wire on it from the point motor switch. All fixed now

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

I don't know but I'm running out and not sure what to replace it with - any suggestions from anyone else?

I hear baking soda is a possible alternative

23 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Hi Andy,

 

Wow - that looks mighty fine indeed. My Millholme kit duly assigned to the dustbin! (only kidding).

 

I was in danger of insulting you by asking what kit you built it from but I've since read your entry on the Chapel thread where you reveal that it is scratchbuilt. Fantastic!

 

Well - yes please! - re the etched parts I was already thinking along the lines of replacing certain components with etched parts anyway (you don't have any spare smoke deflectors, do you?).I'm seeing Barry on the 11th but no immediate hurry as there's no desperate urgency this end.

 

I look forward to seeing your loco in the flesh one day.

I will PM you with a list of bits I have that you may be able to make use of

With controlled access to Chapel, its time to finish some new stock for the next outing. Every since I started building kits in my late teens, I always wanted to scratch build a loco and the choice for me was a LNWR coal tank or a Fowler Patriot (no complicated multi plain curves!). Well, I have finally built one of them, although I decided to go down the design an etch route.

I give you 45539 “EC Trench”

I forgot to put the other smoke deflector on for the photo 

Tender is my own etched sides on a comet chassis.

After an hour test running on Chapel this afternoon she (or is it he?) is ready for a good scrub and possibly a coat of primer tomorrow 

Andy

1 hour ago, LNER4479 said:

Anyhow ...

 

Even though the layout is part dismantled for a few months, that doesn't stop work on other things. Ladies and gentlemen, I give you 2021's loco build project:

 

Only been 'in stock' for about 20 years(!). Wish me luck ...

 

In fact, nothing like a bank holiday weekend to make a start. Chassis is a bit basic(!) so I'm already adding things. Spring hangers (from a spare B3 etch!), holes for brake hangers, motor cut out filled in, slots for motion bracket supports and bottom rear of frames profiled more accurately.

 

No Poppy's jig required - it all bolts together in the traditional style. Although not apparent, the bearings for the centre drivers set just slightly high, to avoid grounding on any high spots. Drivers are an old set of Romfords 26mms I had to hand - this will be a 'layout loco'!

 

Footplate assembled from four pieces. A fair bit of fettling to get them to behave.

 

Doesn't quite look like a Pat just yet but give it time. The important thing at this stage is ride height and driving wheel clearance (being 26mm helps).

 

Haven't got a motor/gearbox for it yet but I'm planning on this being a 'heavy hauler' due all the weight it's carrying around. Might even get called up for overnight sleeping car train duty over Shap. I also fancy it in early BR appearance, possibly in lined black which some of them went into before getting their better known cowpat green livery.

 

More as and when I get round to it. I fancy this might be a gradual job throughout the rest of 2021 - there's other things on the agenda as well!

If you would like a nice etched brass cab to try instead of the cast one, let me know and I will sort out a set of parts via Barry.

just finished mine today. Plenty of spare etched bits including steps

Andy

2 hours ago, kandc_au said:

Andy,
I have tried the link but cannot seem to get anywhere!
If I shorten for the midrailcentre.com it also takes me nowhere.
Any suggestions please?

Khris

Hi Khris, 

Looks like the website isn't there any more. Either he hasn't renewed the lease on the web address or he has ceased trading. I know the link worked when I first posted it. 

Sorry

Regards

Andy

44 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Do any of the LMRS members actually admit to being from Gods Own Country then?!

 

There are a few of us, we just keep our heads down

27 minutes ago, Barry O said:

Erm.. apparently I have also received a D2  as part of a bereavement.. no idea what number it is.. so that makes... 6..

 

Baz

Yours is 4325 Baz when I can deliver it to you

Very sad news. Enjoyed operating a couple of Dave’s Highland layouts as a junior member of the Leeds MRS.

Very talented modeller.
 

RIP Dave

19 minutes ago, Barry O said:

So I had a thunk.(not good for an engineer!)

 

And

 

 

wonder what that is all about then?

 

Baz

You feeling OK Baz, looks like you may have been cutting wood. Not your usual medium

Looking good Andy.

Can I ask what those two large pipes are to the left hand side of the door?

50 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

Lez, is there anywhere you can suggest where I can read more about CSB principles and practice?

For more info on CSB go to the following website

http://www.clag.org.uk/

Andy

Hi Jonathan,

thought you might find the below useful. It’s from a 1960’s railway modelling magazine (Can’t remember which one). 
 

Regards

Andy

4 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said:

There an example of the Jidenco kit available on eBay, £35.

You can barely tell what it is from the quality of the photo!

22 minutes ago, Gordon A said:

IIs the kit still availablefor your tender, if so how much please?

 

Gordon A

Hi Gordon

I will PM you

Andy

4 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

Is @Innocentman still on here one of his etches for the body sounds interesting?

 

Yes I'm still here!

Here one I made earlier along side the test etch and build

The green version is to go behind a Patriot I'm wrestling with

Regards

Andy

Wow, that brings back a few memories.

In my youth I worked on the ALR on Sunday’s and do appear in the film on the Hunslet. 
 

There were two big engineering features on the line, the bridge and the cutting.

The bridge steels could be seen early in the video. These were set onto Concrete pads formed on top of wire basket gabions set into each bank of the mill race. The dumper seen early on was transporting bricks to form a ford next to the bridge location. This allowed the dumper and the Ruston excavator to reach the north bank of the mill race. The Ruston excavator sat in the middle of the Ford and lifted the steel RSJ's into place.

The cutting just after the bridge was a pig to dig. It wasn’t long after we started to excavate it the we found it was a dumping ground for off cuts of leather from an old long gone factory! It was like a coals seam of leather.

I have some photos somewhere of my time on the ALR, I will have to see if I can find them.

Thanks for digitising and posting.

Andrew

Morning Jonathan,

Loving the work you are doing on Derwent Spa.

Have you seen the way the glass canopy glazing bars have been done on Leeds City, The Midland Side?

Regards

Andy

2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Smokebox door (and a moulded one as well) posted to you yesterday, thanks for the loan of it.

Arrived this morning safe and well. Well impressed with moulding, nice job. 

Andy

2 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

According to my "Zeus Precision Data Charts and Reference Tables for Drawing Office, Toolroom and Workshop - Metric Revision" the tapping drill size for 10BA is 1.40mm. "Osborne's Cutting Tool Guide" tells me that that in turn is near as dammit a no 54 drill.

I just use the handy table that comes with the Taps

Just now, Captain Kernow said:

Thanks for that, Andy, it's actually something I've been thinking about doing for some time as well. I think I already have a 10BA tap, but out of interest, what size of drill do you use, to drill the existing hole out, prior to using the tap, please?

 

The Tapping drill I use for 10BA is 1.4 mm.

When doing a new build I always use a drill press when drilling to ensure squareness of the hole. On a retro fit with the wheels in place on a chassis its a pin chuck  and a lot of side views to ensure I'm drilling as square as possible. As long as you are reasonably close the  flange on the Romford crankpin will align itself square. 

Of course this all assumes you have the wiggle room for a screwdriver to enable you to unscrew the old M1 CSK machine screw from the back of the wheel without removing them from the axle .

Bets regards

Andy

I use AGW wheels on a regular basis and could never get on with the AGW crankpins

A solution I use all the time now is to drill out and tap the crank pin hole in the wheel 10BA and then use a Romford crankpin held in by a thread locking compound.

Little trick I picked up from Michael Edge

Regards

Andy