Les le Breton

Me too, yippee! Any ideas about a reasonable DCC sound for Number 8 ?

Not much progress on Aberaeron, we’ve only just returned from holiday and have been taken up with hospital visits and child minding in the half term holiday! I have a couple more photo's taken on the Quiberon Isthmus of Kerhostin Station. This line is only used in the summer holidays and it is amazing how quickly the vegetation takes over the ballast. When I was a kid in school my science teacher asked who can name three gasses, I raised my hand and said Oxygen, Hydrogen, and Jumpin' Jack Flash.

Thanks to Ian Nolan, posting a number of photographs taken on 13th November 1963, I have been able to plan more for my layout whilst on holiday. I hope these pictures are of value to others also, the ballasting has been an eye opening to me. The following photograph is of a lovely single track line in Brittany. She had a penetrating sort of laugh. Rather like a train going into a tunnel. P. G. Wodehouse

I have discovered that building one’s magnum opus, planned for a glorious retirement, is thwarted by unseen distractions; child care and health issues really intrude into model railway building time. I am really grateful that I haven’t discarded my Hornby oval track; it has become a brilliant tool- For making changes to the DCC chips, Running in locomotives (purchased before the stock runs out), planned for the aforementioned magnum opus, Checking the operation of my Sprat and Winkle couplings, etc. but, Best of all I can relax just enjoying the trains running. There's something about the sound of a train that's very romantic and nostalgic and hopeful. Paul Simon

I have not posted for some time for a couple of reasons, health and modelling. I have had an issue with my ANE SmartFrogs. To cut this long story short, ANE have taken my problems seriously; after initially giving me a lot of technical advice, they offered to exchange my Version 3 SmartFrogs for the latest models, Version 6. The mail to and from Taiwan was efficient and SmartFrogs V6 seem to have many improvements. Unfortunately, I am now on holiday and in no position to put the replacements to the test! I hope that my normal modelling service/posts will be resumed asap. Fortunately the University of Railway Modelling, in the safe hands of RMweb can be accessed in my rural hovel/holiday home.

I have used Woodland Scenics, track underlay on my Aberaeron layout http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115981-aberaeron-station/page-3. I used Woodland Scenics own adhesive which seemed to behave like a cross between PVA and Copydex. My reasoning came as a result of my loco test track, which is a baseboard of 6mm ply. It resonates to all train traffic in the same way that a guitar does! Aberaeron has the same baseboard structure and the Woodland Scenics, track underlay seems to work well. I have yet to add a coat of ballast but the depth of the track positioning in the underlay looks suitable for a reasonable covering of ballast. I have followed Castle Aching for some time and enjoyed the banter between knowledgeable railway modellers. You have brightened many a difficult day with family health issues, a real tonic. Thank you all.

Thank you for your information about signal rules for GWR track, 5BarVT & Siberian Snooper, the university of RMweb has come up trumps again. This humble student has tried to follow your suggestions. There are a few ignorant spanners in the works of my own making however! My layout will hopefully extend from Aberaeron station, over a level crossing and along a single line to the dockside, as John Harford of Falcondale intended when the line was proposed. [This extra part of the layout depends on my own negotiations for real estate.] The lever plan I’ve come up with, is a suggestion that the GWR, planners, perhaps in a moment of madness, installed spare levers for future use to control the fixed signals and goods turnouts when they modernised the signal box. I hope my plan below is understandable, and apologies for my ignorance of prototypical nomenclature. Lever No. Lever colour Purpose 1 Red Signal Down End of Platform protecting level crossing 2 White Signal Distant [to dockside] Fixed 3 Black Turnout Up Turnout Main/Run round [CROSSOVER] 4 Blue Turnout Facing point lock for Up Turnout Main/Run round [CROSSOVER] 5 Black Turnout Run round/Main [CROSSOVER] 6 Blue Turnout Facing point lock [CROSSOVER] 7 White Turnout Goods shed siding 8 White Turnout Siding 9 White Turnout Run round to Sidings 10 Red Signal Up Starter signal 11 White Turnout Run round or Cattle siding 12 Black Turnout Up Turnout Run Round/Main [CROSSOVER] 13 Blue Turnout Facing point lock for Up Turnout Run round/Main [CROSSOVER] 14 Black Turnout Down Turnout Main/Run round [CROSSOVER] 15 Blue Turnout Facing point lock for Down Turnout Main/Run round [CROSSSOVER] 16 White Turnout Loco Shed or Loco coal siding 17 Red Signal Down Home 18 White Signal Up Distant Fixed All corrections would be welcome. Whilst pondering my next modelling move (before my Hernia op,) I realised I have probably missed a Signal box lever. It is likely that a signal protecting traffic from the port before the level crossing would have a lever used by one of the locomotive staff, near the gates; but before the fictitious port line, imho, there would likely be a crossing lock controlled from the signal box, protecting both rail and road traffic. This brown lever will become number one, sending all the others dancing one position to the right! [or down the list of this post. He who laughs last has not yet heard the bad news.Bertolt Brecht

I am hoping that my normal modelling will be resumed as soon as possible because autumn term has arrived! I have decided to add contents to my signal box and have discovered that this is a potential can of prototypical worms for me however! From postings in the RMweb I have discovered that from early on, facing points for passenger routes had obligatory facing point locks, controlled from a Signal box (or ground frame,) I understand that the levers in the box are normally as follows:- White spare; Black point; Blue facing point lock; Red home/starter signal; Yellow distant signal; Brown gate mechanism lock (if required). I have a couple of questions however:- Would the GWR install facing locks on some goods turnouts, like cattle sidings etc. after WW1? Am I correct in thinking that the levers would be in logical groups, with point, facing point lock and signal controls? I know that the levers won’t be easily visible, but with interior lighting it is more noticeable perhaps. Any advice from the University of RMweb would be most welcome.

I found it it very cold, like the loco's. They reminded me of Madam Tussauds and could have been replaced with large plastic models. Very sad, a vault of dead machinery.

Thank you for posting “Little Muddle” KNP, particularly for taking the time to answer the many questions posed by others. IMHO, your topic is like an on line university course for railway modellers, with a wonderful railway model, developing before our eyes.

I'm pleased to say that my modelling has made good progress. It was with trepidation, that I girded my loins to start the installation of my ANE (now marketed by PECO,) SmartFrogs, under one of my Aberaeron baseboards, particularly after reading negative reviews in RMweb by kirtleypete and torikoos et al. For a couple of days I have been wrestling with the difficult instructions. I persevered with the electronic Gordian knot, eventually managing to get the single crossover turnouts to work, controlled with one switch. I think I am lucky to have used power from my Hornby Railmaster DCC control system. At the slightest hint of an electrical short, the power is immediately switched off until the fault is sorted. The first time it cut power I became quite worried, because it occurred the moment I connected the first SmartFrog, but after re-setting the software the SmartFrog did what it is supposed to. The second SmartFrog behaved in the same way. This attachment is the current state of play, not a pretty sight but it works; I haven't secured the SmartSwitch cables into a safe place yet. The main components are:- At the top middle, the two tag boards, positive, (brown) at the top and negative (blue), beneath. Various components on wooden plinths are, from left to right:- Servo number 6 SmartFrog servicing Servo number 6 SmartSwitch controller SmartFrog servicing Servo number 5 Servo number 5 The ribbon sailing down on the left of the controller leads to the Control Device which enables adjustments to the servo horns position, the servo speed etc. All good clean fun, even if it is frustrating at times. Taxation is just a sophisticated way of demanding money with menaces Terry Pratchett

I’m still plodding along with the wiring. Today I added 2.5mm cables for the power bus of baseboards 2 & 3. This is the tag junction for baseboard 2; you can see that the bus wire is soldered to the tags opposite the droppers. I checked that each individual dropper had a good joint with the bus bar, by using a multi meter, from each dropper on it's tag to the end of the bus cable, before gluing the bus bar wires to the baseboard. This is the tag junction for baseboard 3; observant modellers will realise that by not soldering decent lengths of dropper cable to some of the track, has forced me to separate the positive, brown bus wires on the tag board; this will teach me not to be a Scrooge! I just hope that the addition of other cables will be enabled by my positive cable bridge. The last of today’s pictures is the result of further Scrooge behaviour. As well as engineers’ dowels, to connect the baseboards, I used bolts with captive nuts, (harvested from a sofa well past its use by date, as I gathered timber for our wood burner stove.) It struck me that to use these bolts would be an excellent way to transfer power buses from one board to the next. The captive nut had a cable soldered to it and the bolt head squeezes a bus bar cable sandwich between two large washers.Yes, I did check that it conducts power well to each and every tag. Wot a horrible mess of solder - I should get lessons!!!! It has also struck me that I need to ensure that servo, electronic equipment, doesn't accidentally touch any of the power joints. Has anyone got a suggestion? So much universe and so little time. Terry Pratchett

Today I finished the positioning of Servos in baseboard 2. The weird thing about renewing railway modelling after about fifty years, it is amazing how much I have forgotten. The RMweb has been an incredible resource for me, thank you one and all. Let the passengers off the train first . . .oh, go on then, stuff yourselves in like sardines – see if I care. London Underground driver announcement.

I have started to add the servo's to Aberaeron. I have made bases, glued with PVA, to screw the servos firmly into place and I hope the photo's make sense! The photo's include a glimpse of the tag board which deals with the track droppers. It also shows off the results of trying to tidy the droppers and strengthening the cables where they pass through the baseboard. The two servos near each other control the three way turnout, the foot of the turnout being further away. One board remains to add servos and then I have to deal with the spaghetti of the Smart Frog power routing board and the Smart Switch control board. The place of the father in the modern suburban family is a very small one, particularly if he pays golf. Bertrand Russell

After our nieces wedding weekend, I decided to open my first ANE servo set; of four servos and controllers etc. Eek! I discovered, that to screw the frog polarity boards, controllers and servos into place, I’ll have to glue some patches of plywood beneath my baseboards first, the screws provided are clearly required for thick baseboards, even the underlay won’t help. More woodwork for me tomorrow. I have to admit that this unplanned additional labour is a consequence of having 3.6mm plywood for the baseboard, however, I am glad that my scenic boards are very light to handle, especially as I managed to acquire a right inguinal hernia a few weeks ago! I should have ignored the garden and worked on my layout. It is well known that a vital ingredient of success is not knowing that what you're attempting can't be done Terry Pratchett

I have finally managed to fit the entire scenic track in place, adding droppers to each individual length of track and placing Sprat & Winkle decoupling magnets in position. Every cable underneath the baseboard was reinforced with my glue gun where the cable emerges from above. Then each power dropper was glued at intervals, to keep them relatively tidy, before being soldered onto its’ own tag. Fitting the PECO inspection/ash pit was easier than I thought it would be. The Engine shed track is at the bottom of the photograph. The white baseboard surfaces show how I tweaked the underlay and track positioning. I now have the joy of fitting servos and control units. It is a shame that the track wasn’t ready for my Oxford Dean Goods (which arrived on the 15th,) but I did manage to enjoy it, travelling around my test track once my Hornby Railmaster recognised the loco’s chip. Wot, no crew! I come from a very old military family. One of my ancestors fell at Waterloo . . . someone pushed him off platform nine. Eric Morecambe

If you've got mods on the layout, aren't you worried about the rockers arriving?

I continued using PVA to add three more coats of Papier-mâché to the River Aeron model, on the scenic, baseboard, topside, which I then painted with the same soil coloured paint, like the rest of the baseboards. I also thought it important to add the same amount of Papier-mâché strengthening, on the underside of the river. The underneath doesn’t need any fancy finish however! I can now get on with the more interesting modelling jobs, like track laying, as well as adding water, undergrowth and weeds to the river etc.. They say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but it's not one half so bad as a lot of ignorance Terry Pratchett

Managed to paste the first coat of Papier-mâché on the cardboard bones of my River Aeron today. It reminds me of my teaching career, too many years ago to think of! "A layout is a little theatre and the trains must act in character; it's all about illusion." "Swiss Rail Passion.”

Hi y’all, I have managed a little modelling between domestic nursing etc. The following Photographs might make sense of my modelling. I have used the removed part of baseboard 3, (creating the river Aeron) to act as the river bed. I used the hot glue gun to join the baseboard cutouts lower down and then used PVA and a couple of clamps to join the two lengths, at the point where the train line bridge goes over the river, with a short length of plywood. When the glue hardened I used strips of cardboard to begin creating the river banks. Aerial shot of the Bridge over the river Aeron I hope my posts are worthwhile, although my methods are probably old hat for the many erudite, brilliant modellers who post in RMweb. The pen is mightier than the sword if the sword is very short, and the pen is very sharp Terry Pratchett

With my wife still in hospital (having a new hip,) I was able to continue with my modelling! I soldered track power droppers to each length of track, cleaned the soldered joints, and then tested the connections. Holes were drilled through the underlay and baseboard to allow the droppers to go below! The heads of baseboard edge screws and track ends were then tinned. Thank you Jamie92208. The turnouts were carefully glued in place to avoid the fragile PECO frog cables from breaking; the turnout switch was checked to ensure it wasn’t glued in one position! The track was glued in place and each length was checked with a straight edge before soldering the rail to the baseboard edge screws. All were then weighted down. When the tracks are fully dried, I'll use a glue gun, to ensure that all the droppers are secured at the point they arrive under the baseboard. Then I have the joys of connecting the power bus to the droppers, followed by fitting the servo's for the turnouts etc. I only have three more baseboards to go! Thank goodness my wife set me up for her hospital stay, I just about had enough tins. What a terrible round of golf! I only hit two good balls all day that was when I stood on a rake. Jimmy Tarbuck

Hi y’all, following many domestic activities I managed some more work on Aberaeron today. Having checked the power connections of two turnouts through the underlay and baseboard I tested the positioning of a couple of magnets for Sprat and Winkle de-coupling. Thanks again Siberian Snooper. I tested the ability to move the de-coupling chain and it allowed wagons through when pulled and decoupling when stopped above the magnet. This shows the magnet beneath the sleepers and snuggled into the underlay. This is my first foray into cutting code 75 tracks to length etc. At least it’s a re-start for me. Inside every old person is a young person wondering what happened?

I have a lot to thank you for Siberian Snooper, particularly with my planning of Sprat & Winkle couplings. You may recall the plan of the magnet positioning I posted on 03. February, as a novice with this technology, do you think my positioning is sensible or warrants changes and/or additions? Suggestions from modellers with knowledge of inter-war G.W.R. practices would be most welcome. No matter how fast technology advances the world will always find a more advanced idiot. [Me?]

Hi folks, I’ve managed to continue with Aberaeron over the last few days, perhaps it’s better described by pictures. As my layout lives in a garage I thought it prudent to paint the baseboards, to reduce warping. After the white undercoat, I used a brown tester paint to give a rural feel to the baseboard tops. I soldered droppers for the turnout’s power and frogs. Next I drilled holes for the droppers, as well as the switch access for the servos. I ensured that the droppers were O.K. and that the servo orifices were large enough. This enabled a test for my Airfix Autocoach on code 75 turnouts, success. With the turnouts taken off I started to glue the track underlay It was kept in place like this! I am hoping that after all of the underlay is completed, I’ll be able to work from under the board to drill through and reinstate the cable runs. What follows this, will be an evaluation of how deep to place the magnets beneath the track, to operate my Sprat and Winkle couplings. It’s no good telling the politicians to go to hell because they’re building it for us. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Les Dawson

Politicians are like nappies, they should be changed regularly for the same reason. Patrick Murray