I have just got around to testing my Silverlink 321 on my Kato layout which has R1, R2, R3 and R4 curves. Initially, there was no movement or lights. Fixed by reseating the sound chip in its socket on the pcb. I guess it probably got dislodged in transit.
I found that my model struggled to negotiate all the curves without derailing. I checked that the couplings were capable of moving from side to side properly. There were two that were sticking and needed to be relocated in the chassis. I also loosened the bogie fixing screws to allow more movement at the pivot. After this the model got round the R4 and R3 curves ok but still derailed on the smaller radius curves. I realise that with the factory fitted couplings the model was not going to make it round the R1 curves.
My view is that, on my layout, the wired couplings will not allow the model to negotiate my smaller curves. Therefore I have decided to remove the wired couplings and install a fixed bar between coaches. I have just tested this on two of the coaches and they go round the smallest Kato R1 curves (216mm radius) and both #6 and #4 points ok. Downside of this is having to remove three small screws to get the coaches back in their storage box. Next job is to add the two other coupling bars.
Without the wire feeds from the motor coach I know this will leave me the problem of making the directional and destination board lights working again. Having studied the coach pcb I now know where I can pick up track power and install a function only decoder controlling the lights for each driving coach.
I also found the saloon lights far too bright for my liking causing difficulty seeing the coach livery and need to be dimmed. I tested a 1k resistor in the feed to the saloon lights and this looked much better to me. However, once the non-motorised coaches are fitted with a decoder I can connect them to a spare light function wire. I think it may be possible to dim the saloon lights with a CV adjustment in the decoder and will check this out.
A couple of warnings for 321 owners. If you decide to remove the non powered bogies be very careful not to loose the contact springs which drop out when turning the bogies upside down. Also avoid damaging the springs when refitting the bogies, both happened to me.
Also the the silver paint applied to the window frames appears to be quite fragile and I have rubbed it off in places with my fingers just by removing the body from the chassis. I am now applying Tamiya low tack tape where my fingers hold the body when removing and refitting it and hope this avoids this problem.
I really like the sound fitted 321 model with the Silverlink livery and chose to carry out these modifications as it was important to me that I could use the model on the small radius curves on my layout.
Colin