Simond

Somewhat frustrated. Been writing a "how to" on installation of KA caps since breakfast time and returned to my ipad to discover it gone. As it was nearly finished, I'm not happy. No time to do it now, so later in the week, maybe. Best Simon

On a more serious note, one of my ten-wheeler things got a dose of KA caps last night. Rather than go off topic, I've posted some details in my Porth Dinllaen thread. Best Simon

he ain't givin' much away, that Mister Klein chap, is 'ee? me? Oi reckons as 'ow it'll 'av 10 wheels... jus' don't know whether it tows one o' them tender things around. S

Yeah, but no, but yes but... There will always be tolerances, but, honestly, the bits should fit. Not going yo ramble on as I've just been out to celebrate a very capable modeller's 80th birthday, and I'm full of curry and beer, but, the bits should fit!!! A demain, Simon

'tis ferocious in the sheer quantity of electrickery. it appears to include train control as well as control of the traversers themselves, and there appears to be logic in that it finds, and checks, that the road is clear before sending a train in / out and screens for the despatchers, and, and... there must be more than a few lines of code in there too. very clever! music would drive you up the wall tho'! Simon

well, glad to see you won't be bored tonight...

yeah, a railway without signals - well, it would look like the DLR...

Hi Chris I'd be tempted to screw the tanks to the cab if you go down that route - I suspect that soldering is likely to lead to expansion and contraction and an annoying impossiblity of fitting something just so, despite the fact that you know it is the right size... you can perhaps hide the nut inside the cab, behind the backhead. The screw would be accessible from inside the tanks (or via a removeable smokebox door as Stubby suggests) Adjustment is possible! you will be able to mount your decoder in the boiler - meaning it is not flapping around on its wires when you are trying to install the body. I would put the speaker in the tanks - not worth the effort of wiring it into the bunker IMO. Ditto keep-alive caps. BTW see my discussion with Chaz on Dock Green thread for cheaper approaches to KA. watching with interest Simon

Oh, I wish... Perhaps when the premium bond finally pays out!!! Actually, a pal hopes to introduce me to a chap with a laser cutter. Not going to cut brass, but in bet you can do some stuff in plastic. I don't think MDF is ideal for loco building! Simon

Turning back to the question of sub-assemblies; It looks to me like it should be possible to build the smoke box onto the footplate, possibly with a dummy front wall, leaving the detailed part of the smoke box front on the tanks as it is now. Theoretically, there would be a visible join but it should be possible to effectively fit parts so it doesn't show. All other joins are under the tanks, or where the tank joins the cab, which is prototypical. It might then be possible to solder a couple of bits of brass rod through holes in the cab front, so that they fit into matching holes in the back of the tanks, effectively dowels to locate and secure the back of the tanks. A securing screw from below the smoke box, or down through the chimney would hold the front of the tanks in place. Maybe a screw between tanks and cab front, but access is likely to be a pain, not that you'll need to do it often. This presupposes that the cab & bunker is fixed to the footplate. An alternative would be to secure it with screws from below, which would get around the cab interior problem that I ran into, in which case you might also consider soldering the cab roof in place, avoiding the issue of fixing it so it is removable. HTH Simon

I do have CAD of just about every bit I needed a drawing for, but notes...

Rolling over the cab sides brings another problem, if, like me, you like to build the blackhead and cab floor as a detailed drop-in unit. You'll discover fairly rapidly that it won't... I think I would follow Chaz' advice of separation of the cab parts before forming, particularly as these bits are quite challenging, as there is next-to-nothing to hold onto whilst forming. My approach was to clamp the edge of the cab side to a bit of brass rod of suitable diameter, with a couple of toolmaker's clamps, and packing if needed. The brass rod can then be clamped in the vice, and the cab side rolled round it. Unless there is a "bridge" at the bottom of the doorway, I'd suggest soldering a temporary one into place to keep the sides in shape. It might be worth making a "negative" template from PK or other sheet material - scribe round the edge of the cab front, and cut away to give you a gauge that can be tried from the outside of the bend - gives you a good idea of how far the bend has progressed. Go gently and keep testing, as it is easier to bend a bit more, than to unbend a bit less... What is a "suitable diameter" (radius)? Probably about a millimetre less than the finished radius will be, to allow for a bit of spring-back. Sorry, I am not as thorough as David (DLOS/IsembardUK) so have no notes, and your cab looks like nickel, mine was brass, so wouldn't be right anyway. The tanks and fittings look great - persevere!!! Simon

Chris I don't want to be like Senna the Soothsayer ("Doom, doom, and thrice doom"...) but I think you're going to have a bit of fun with the bunker too... Maybe my CRT kit is not looking like such a bad idea after all... Simon

Ah, missed the "XL" You could try this http://www.esu.eu/support/faq/loksound/loksound-xl-v35/ http://www.esu.eu/fileadmin/img/support/FAQ/DigitalProducts/Decoders/LSXLV35-STL_connecting.jpg I would connect up sufficient caps in series with the diode and resistor between GND and U+, pretty sure it will work. I have no idea why there appears to be 3 U+ connections. If you check them with a meter to GND you should see the ~ 16V. Of course, this suggestion given with no hint of either personal experience of doing it on this decoder model, nor any guarantee! HTH Simon

Chaz I think you can fit KA caps to a V3.5 - see http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/esuloksound52400v35keepalive.html Certainly worth investigation Glad to hear that the show was a success, and hope I'll have the opportunity to see Dock Green & meet you at some point Best Simon

Despite it being the G0G show at Telford, I ended up in Essex, where by chance I found myself at Mangapps Railway museum, which I would heartily recommend - there is a fantastic collection of railway items, principally but not exclusively from the Essex area. http://www.mangapps.co.uk One of the non-Eastern items was this. Sorry that the photos are not excellent. May help anyone weathering a milk tank, or indeed, looking for details. I suspect it is being used as a fuel bowser Best Simon

Chaz Good to hear Enjoy Simon

talking of which, when's the next installment? br Simon

I'm with Chris here - I'm not in favour of "awesome" - but I would run to "exquisite". Actually, I thought I could smell the maroon one when I first saw it! best Simon btw - Chris, thanks - envelope arrived!

be fair, Chris it's better than "very nice indeed".... Simon

Rod the second photo, with the dirty ballast and tracks framing it - it really could be the real thing! what do you think the minimum "rolled down" thickness of the tarmac should be? Presumably, if/when I shamelessly copy you, I would want to make the edging slabs the same or thereabouts? best Simon

Well, to my surprise, it did - with a train comprising a 6w Toad, a Macaw B, 3 4W wagons, and a Loriot, total 15 axles, it stopped about half way across the paper, at speed step 7. At speed step 10 and above, it made it across the paper towel without stuttering. Noticably more if the load was still accelerating, which is reasonable. So perhaps 7 seconds light engine is not excessive. Next step will be a much newer chip with a suitable sound project on it. Like the buffers... Simon

Joking aside, a late thought on this - it's 7 seconds, light engine. Might be rather less if it's loaded. Will check it out when I've reassembled 1366. Simon

Stud contact anyone?

well good luck with her, and the layout. I made another 6 capacitor block yesterday evening in 3x2 format as 2x3 just wouldn't go through the firebox into the panniers of my 1366 (grrrr). I will finish the installation tonight and see if I can further improve the slow speed running. If I have anything worth posting, I will add it to my Porth Dinllaen thread. all the best Simon