nhdesigns

That makes sense to me as I only have a modest size scenic section and don't have enough space to have multiple signals and signal blocks realistically. I'm only having one signal with a feather for the up line prior to it splitting into a slow and fast line and showing the route set. I'm also having just two four aspect signals for my down slow and fast lines before it merges back into a singe down line, which will go onto the hidden storage loops. I'd be best going for something with a sensor that will set the signal(s) to danger and then go through a timed sequence. Do you have any possible suggestions for what would be best to use? Also would I need a seperate sort of sensor for switching a feather? I've seen a few around from BLOCKsignalling, heathcote electronics, and mimic points but just seem confused by them.

That does make more sense to me in a way. I'm rather new to using four aspect signaling and aspects such as route control. I've only really used two aspect signals in the past that would change to danger or green, depending on which line the point is set to. I should think it would be okay to have one block detector close to the signal controlling the fast line and possibly another one controlling the signal for the slow line. Unless that wouldn't be effective or possible. As I say I'm new to all of this and don't want to be pressing buttons numerous times to change a signal when a train passes, since it would've already passed by the time it's changed to danger or similar! :-)

I've got some of the train-tech 4 aspect signal heads that I intend to fit onto a scratchbuilt signal gantry and I just need some help in a way of controlling them. Basically the two signals will be covering both a fast line and a slower line the merges back into one single down track line via a point. I'm looking at having both signals operated by means of block detecion or similar, that would change the from a clear or single or double caution signal to danger and then return the signal back to clear following the reverse sequence of single yellow etc. Basically I want to have both signals change to danger when a train passes on either the slow exit line or fast line. And possibly to change the fast line signal to danger when the point is set for the slow line/exit and then change to danger when a train passes it. I don't know if that would work in real life, let alone in model form. But would anyone be able to help me out please? What would be the best signal controller is best for automatic signal control? How many signal controllers would I need for both signals? I should also mention that my layout is: DCC using Hornby Elite and Railmaster My layout is a contious run with hidden sididngs One line diverging into a slow and fast line Two lines merging/joining back into a single line I'd really appreciate any help and advice since this is something new to me. I can provide photos if it will help

Hi I just completed the 1st survey. I have got to say I really do like the 3D designs you've done for OHLE portals and registration arms. I could see something like this to be very popular with modern modellers modelling the 1970s up to the present day. Especially since there are some impressive new model electrics coming out like the Heljan 86/0 and Hornby 87 with Rapido Trains 92 as well.

I've used the same OHLE portals you've mentioned and I have to say they are worth the price for them. Easy to assemble and modify, as I've had to do due to size limitiations on my layout. I've gone and managed to add some registration arms as well. Now I just need to prime and paint it all.

That’s what I’m doing as well for my own layout funnily enough. I’m in the same boat as you with OHLE. That said I’ve been trying to make my own as well as close to realistic as possible. I agree that it depends on the time and place of ones layout but I don’t think it would be hard doing the WCML or the West Midlands area. I’ve tried to make my own for a four track stretch on my layout but it’s not been easy due to space constraints on my layout. Tried the nbrass locos metal gantries myself but found it tricky with soldering everything and then fitting the arms to hold the wires. Peco were due to introduce a new multiple track portal for its own catenary but still no sign of it coming soon. I have found a video on YouTube by someone called Paul Thompson who has made some effective looking catenary using brass wire and catenary portals from an online company. Have a look here:

Well that’s really good advice there thanks. I don’t think I would have much trouble with either 3D design work or vector graphics and CAD. I actually had a look around and did see one for £100 on Amazon but I’m not going to rush into buying one or a laser cutter either. If anything it’s one of the ideas I have in mind, that might be gone again tomorrow or over the next week knowing my mind. Mainly because I got a degree in illustration, with line and technical illustration being my major in my final year. And I did learn 3D art and design in my first year and did it as my major in my second year. Though I probably would be a bit rusty since I’ve not done 3D design work for nearly 10 years but I still know my way around it. I shouldn’t have a problem with CAD or vector design and laser printing. Mainly because I did work for my local glass centre and learned about vector design and printing, since the branch I worked at was the only one that did sandblasting for glass. I did do a lot of the design work and printing onto vinyl prior to sandblasting. “Ah memories!” Those were the days. All in all I appreciate your advice on this.

I'm not sure if I'm going about this the right way or not. I have a number of ideas in mind for making my own model scenery items like lineside junk, interior items for buildings and other things like buildings, signal gantries etc. I've heard of some places like shapeways.com and others, but I'm 50/50 on that at the moment. I'm interested in 3D model making but don't know much about it. I know I would need to have a 3D printer for start and 3D printing or design software but that's it. I imagine the same for a laser cutter and some CAD design software to draw out shapes with. So basically does anyone have any advice on 3D printing and laser cutting? Just some basic information and advice for 3D printing like: What is the best 3D printer for making small items? Such as scenic details, building interiors etc. Is it better to get one new or second hand to try? Would I need any special software or app? Is it easy to use 3D printers and any programs? Do I need any special materials? As far as laser cutting and printing is concerned: What's the best or cheapest laser cutter to get? Is it better to get one new or second hand to try? Would I need any special software or app? I imagine a CAD design program would be needed. I model 1:76 OO gauge and with an urban themed layout set in the 1980s to the present day if this helps as well.

I plan to install colour light signals on my layout like I’ve had done before, but this time I’ve decided to have four signals on a gantry at one end near two set of points at the start and end of a four track mainline. I’ve had a look around and the web and wanted to get the traintronics modern signal gantry but it’s not available anywhere. I see that the closest I can do is to make my own signal gantry and I have seen some things from ScaleModelScenery that I can use to make a signal gantry, such as walkways and safety ladders in curves cages but don’t know how to go about making one. I’m wondering if anyone has any suggestions or plans of any modern signal gantries in OO gauge. I’m mainly looking for something that would be seen on the WCML or similar, with the protective cages around the signals if that would help.

It’s a personal choice whether to use varnish or not. You don’t need to use any specific brand of varnish as long as you use matt varnish. This is mainly to protect the printed finish from fading and the like. If you’re weathering any kit after building then I would suggest sealing it with matt varnish afterwards to protect it. Just remember to cover any windows properly before using any varnish as this will cause them to be frosted or misted.

I’m planning to install some signals on my layout with, possibly, a signal gantry on one end of my trackbed near a point that merges two lines into one again. I’m looking at getting some head only signals like traintronics or similar and I’m wondering if they could be wired and controlled by train-tech signal controllers for DCC. I just mainly need two two aspect signals that show which way the point is set.

Does anyone know how to set up a realtrack 156 to run as one unit. I got the ESU 53614 Decoders fitted in both units but they keep going opposite directions when running. Everything else is fine but it’s just this problem and I don’t know how to go about making it run as one whole model.

I've recently got a set of working streetlights for my layout which are clear white in color. Because my layout is set in the 1980s upwards, I want to paint the LEDs themselves a little to make them look like the older sodium based lights used. What color paint would be best to use to make them have an orange or yellow tint to them. I should point out that the street lights are ones that would be used on a typical high street with a 30mph speed limit and two which would be in a residential street.

I've just come across this and would like to add my view on these laser cut Catenary Portals. I've probably got the ones mentioned from a site on Ebay called Torri Laser cutting and Design. I mainly got them after seeing a post on Facebook and a video of how to model registration arms. I've made a set before from N brass locos and played around in these laser cut ones. In my own opinion and for simplicity I would say laser cut portals of the heavier type are a lot better. Mainly for the ease of building them, which only takes a few minutes with some strong glue than special solder flux for brass and a hot iron. And from what I've seen, adding registration arms are easier to fit with just super glue than soldering. I did that last year with my N brass portals and ended up with everything coming apart!

Oh wow that's incredible! I certainly do like the look of the Kingsmill TMD. That's pretty much the sort of thing I'm looking at doing myself. Thanks ever so much for sharing this.

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far and given me some advice. I have used AnyRail to make up a plan for a small TMD. The time period I'm modelling will be the same with this as with my main layout, which is mainly the 1980s to present day in a way but with more focus on the 1980s and 1990s. I have opted to keep it small and rather compact in a way because the intended location would be urban in a way, where it would be limited in space and able to just give quick maintenance and services, with potential to add to a future layout. As far as size is concerned, I intend on having it small and compact with it being 6ft by 1ft or more if needed. The plan I have here is a little more compact in width, which I can alter if needed. This one does feature a fuel point on its own lines seperate from the main TMD and service lines. This would possibly allow for diesels to go for re-fueling without having to go via the depot lines. Overall size of this would be 72" by 18" I am able to extend the width a little more to have more of a scene towards the rear like house backs or a industrial site.

I have said that I'm modelling it in OO gauge in a way and I have enough space in length to extend outwards if needed.

I've considered and haven't been able to stop thinking about making a small to modest size TMD and basically have some sort of an idea in place for something around 6ft by 2ft or longer if possible. I got the time period and location in mind so it's not going to be a large one like Old Oak Common or Neville Hill etc. I've seen this plan on freetrackplans.com and I can see it working in a way for what I have. I intend to have as a pit stop in a way for diesels going on my main layout and Electrics as well as, possibly, one or two car DMUs for a quick service during duties. As time period goes I'm mostly going to be having it as one set in the BR days of sectorisation with early BR blue appearing as well. Most of the locos that would be using it would be the loco hauled type engines, such as 47s, 56s, 86s and 87s and 90s. As far as DMUs they'd mostly be class 150, 153, 156 and 158 units. As far as electrics are concerned, I intend to have a small section of cateneray going over towards a head shunt line and then have them moved around by a class 08 and then back to the electrified headshunt where they would go on. I've included a track plan link here to show what it is I'm considering and just want to know if anyone has any suggestions or advice on making one like this. Only because I'm rather new to making a TMD type layout and want it to look and feel right. I know I have a TMD building and a shunters mess room in mind but should there be anything else I can add. Like a washing plant or fuel storage tanks and fuel point. The plan I have looked at and like can be seen here: https://freetrackplans.com/151-6x1-diesel-depot.html Again any suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks everyone

I gotta say I look forward to the OHLE coming. That's the one item that's sure to be a hit with electric modellers like myself. Hopefully it won't be as complex or fiddly to assemble as the single masts. As great as they are, there not easy to assemble with fiddly hands!

Either way I personally would still like to see some more emphasis on these EMUs from the major manufacturers like Bachmann and Hornby along with some of the others makes. They've all done some good work on modelling the southern region EMUs and even better with electric locomotives like the class 87 and class 90. Though this is partially because I'm not really one for scratch building or kit making and bashing. Even though I'd be willing to build one from a kit, if there are any available right now.

I would like to see some more EMUs that are from outside the southern region(s). Main ones I'd like to see are the 308 and 310 and similar. I honestly don't see why Bachmann and other makers can't alter things with the 108 and other DMUs to make them EMUs. After all it's the same sort of body but with extra cables around the ends and a pantograph fitted. It's not like they have to do a whole new build.

Places like the range are good for getting 1mm mountboard from A4 up to A2 at good price(s), like 50p/60p per A4 or around that price. Other places are good to look is in local art supply shops as well for greyboard and mountboard. For thinner card, you can get cheap stuff from poundland, which is good for very light use or even to protect surfaces when gluing and the like. Cereal packets and other food packaging is good for lighter card as well. That's what I use.

Wow thanks for all the advice there and links. It's interesting to see some of the MK1 and MK2 coaches still working up into the early 1990s with MK3/MK3a coaches. Good thing I have them on hand to go with the push pull trains I intend to operate. I just wish it was easy to get a hold of the 308 and 310 EMUs though. Chances are it might be some years before they come out on the market as ready to run. Also wish the MK3 sleeper coaches would still be available as well.

Wow thanks. It's a good thing I got some MK3a coaches. I take it these were mostly TSO x4 or more with one RFM and two or more FO.