kingmender

A little more progress over the last few evenings. Body now assembled, although handrails still to add. I have a bending jig for the straight handrails but feel I may need to make one for the more complicated ones to get consistency. I made a start on the chassis too. My hold and fold is too small to bend the solebars, so they require a little fettling after soldering. Me feels Eileen's emporium is due an order for a larger one!

With @macgeordie having now produced an O.11 Siphon, I thought it was time to build both the O.33 and O.62 he created over 3 years ago. I made a start on the first side last weekend, detailing the hinges, door corner strapping, door locks and label clip. The level of detail is incredible although assembling the first door's hinges took me an hour. Developing my technique and improving my performance saw the remaining hinges added in not much more than an hour. Swiftly followed by handles, strapping and label clip. Returning last night saw the second side completed, further improving technque and speed. Just the label clip to add then onwards to assembling the body...

Second side completed last night. I have to agree Ian, I did find myself wondering “why am I doing this?” But overall I’m pleased with progress and the level of detail is amazing. Thanks for doing the o.11, it’s forced me to build the o.33. Just the o.62 to build before the postie comes then!

I managed to make a start on my o.33 at the weekend. Hinges handles and strapping attached to one side so far. Improving in technique to get straight hinges, it gets better towards the right hand end. I got a rhythm too, the first 6 hinges took an hour, the remainder not much more than an hour. Looking to start the second side tonight.

Heartfelt thanks Andy for the herculean task of rebuilding RMWeb. This has to be the world's biggest model railway club. One that brings members from all over the world (yes, I'm on the bottom of it!), with a massive diversity in interests and skills together where they can share their knowledge and views, helping to promote our hobby. Next job is to sign up for RMWeb Gold - it really is worth the money.

Path of least resistance for Hornby and all other manufacturers, then don't add cost by making it more complex. How many of us will a) run it, b) have curves more generous than 4th radius >24"? Rails of Sheffield got a far amount of stick on here over 18000 and third radius curves (to be fair I didn't see or register that this was the case, perhaps because such tight radii are not of concern to me?), so backwards compatibility will remain an overriding factor. "You can't please all the people all the time" could be an apt phrase. Despite compromises like this, I'm still amazed that we've seen this model at all. I'd never consider myself a serious modeller, but I'm happy to improve things to my satisfaction. It all started with a Hornby 9f and Crownline Crosti bolier conversion kit nearly 40 years ago. My late Grandfather marvelled at some oddities: Crosti 9f, LNER P2 (he bought me a Kay's kit which I heve the sad remenants of my unskilled attempt), W1, Fury, Turbomotive, Leader and others. Nearly all of these have become available as RTR offerings, just 20 years too late for him. Can skilled serious modellers do better with kits and scratchbuilding? - probably. But for the rest of us, I for one am really grateful for what we now have. Rodger

Returning the Hornby W1 in original condition if I may. Do any of Wright writes regulars know of, or have suggestions for, etched side steps? Having had one of the plastic ones drop off and the other fouling platform edges, I would like to fit a finer version closer to loading gauge. Thanks Rodger

I've modified the rear end to use flanged wheels on both axles. Minimum radius on my layout is 30" and I don't think it would be suitable for radii much less than this. Using a Comet models LS3 pony truck etch, I shortened it to 18mm between the pivot and wheel centres and removed the guard irons. This is the distance between the keep plate mounting screw at the front of the cab and the rear wheelset. Using a "dentist's" burr in my Dremmel I ground away the rear wheelset mounting flush to the underside of the cab floor. Then ground out a channel each side of the front mounting and where the rear truck would swing to give clearance for the flanges. A little too hasty with the Dremmel saw a little damage to the underside edge of the cartazzi truck frame. A dab of paint should fix. Test paint dabs on the underside are railmatch GWR freight grey, bottom and Humbrol dark grey (32?) top. I then cut the keep plate down and filed off the screw recess boss to give a flat underside. The modified pony truck fits between the mounting and keep plate using a longer 2mm shouldered screw. Test running revealed some shorting to the chassis, so a little more ginding on the underside was required. Having added a small piece of lead to the trailing truck, it now runs perfectly with all trailing wheels in contact with the track. Hauling a dynamometer car and 8 Gresly teaks the 1:60, 30" radius helix between each level of my layout was barely noticeable. A little painting should finish it

Comet delivery arrived at lunchtime. The world must be returning to normal as I ordered on 1st Feb and deliveries in 2019 were about 10 days extending out to over 4 weeks in the last 2 years.

I've only tried the flanged wheelset in the front pair of the trailing wheels. Runs ok on my circa 30" radius curves (I think the inner track on my helix may be a tad under 30"), but causes shorts (running DCC) as the flanges are fouling the botton of the chassis. I'll take my dremmel to it soon to resolve. I'm also planning on using a Comet etch to build a swinging rear wheelset, just a soon as Auspost deliver it. So a little more butchery will be required. I'll have to do the same to my A4 too as it doesn't like the inner track on the helix when running with flanged wheels.

There was an article in Railway modeller a few years ago on making a gate rather than a lifting flap. I used this idea to create one across the doorway to my railway room in early 2018 (article before then). Using a DIY store kitchen wall cupboard as an inexpensive but accurate and strong box as the basis. Hinged on one side and supported on casters it pulls open. The top is square at the hinged side and curved on the opening, at a constant radius from the hinge, to allow it to open. I model in oo gauge and have had no issues with it. track is soldered to screws both sides of the opening, laid as a continual length (with expansion allowed for by joints in the rail between the fixed points), soldered and then cut. The cupboard provides handy storage for all that railway stuff we tend to accumulate! Rodger

Thanks Phil. I modified my rear bogie last night. Elongating the slots and shortening the springs by about 3mm. I then fitted a kadee long underset coupler by drilling out the rear screw hole and using a longer self tapping screw. The coupler is a little long so will be replaced with a medium when I get some more. Running is improved over pointwork where it had previously stalled, now completely smooth even at walking pace. Haulage is far greater than new Hornby equivalent. The Dapol prairie will haul 8 collett non corridor coaches up my 1:60 helix. Hornby won't get up with 4, seemingly short or torque rather than grip. Others have suggested additional weight although I've not tried this yet. Looks like a job for tonight. Rodger

6024 would have been in service last year, so should Hornby have announced it then too, only for it to be delayed into 2022?

LNER coronation coach set seeing as the beaver tail has been restored and this years LMS set seemed well received. Oceans mails for me though please.

Simon, an awesome effort to get HLJ infront of the public. I'm just waiting for the Australian leg of the world tour to be announced! My club's exhibition is in June - I'm sure we could squeeze you in somehow. If I do make it back to the UK next year, seeing this will be on my list along with 6024 running on the mainline again. Don't think my airfare will be £43.78 though!

Not sure why weight would make a difference, adhesion is not a problem, a lack of torque appears to be. It doesn't slip, just runs out of steam.

I'm looking forward to haulage comparrisons. New Hornby prairie struggles to haul 4 Collett suburbans up a 1:60 helix, plenty of grip but little torque so it slows to a stand. It looks like the fireman is struggling to raise steam, clinker in the firebox perhaps? Cranking controller up to full has little effect, requires a little assistance to restart then takes off to warp factor 6 when it reaches the level. By comparrison Dapol Mogul romps up barely slowing in esponse to the incline. Longer freight workings eventually cause it to slip to a stand. Dapol prairie currently en route from Cornwall to Melbourne, so testing might be a while...

Is that what the instructor has at the end of the lesson?

Mine was despatched on 13th. Given that most UK to Victoria Australia parcels are taking 3 to 4 weeks its just another short wait. Hopefully less restrictions in Brisbane John KS should get his before me.

It’s why we in Australia (certainly Victoria) have to attach trailers with a pair of chains (using an eye either side of the tow hitch) crossed under the trailer’s tow bar to stop the trailer breaking loose.

Are they anywhere near 7030 Bouncy Castle?

Timbertracks did both 7mm and 4mm laser cut versions of both 2 and 4 road sheds. Brian is retiring so not much left in stock. He was also going to make a model of the lifting shop (behind the shed at Didcot with adjoining modern workshop), but this didn’t materialise. I used 2 x 2 road sheds end to end and one of his coaling stages. Excellent models

Huntsman spiders keep the insects down, but even their skin casts cause major derailments. Big but not deadly and no match for a dyson

Mine didn’t look like that. Blanking plate easily removed. I would consider returning it as this appears to be a manufacturing defect.