Spitfire2865

10 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

Sound fitted loco - unconventional methodology

 

Loco with sound

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Christ......

Im at a loss for words. 

Are you able to delete custom activity streams you create?

Ive accidentally made a couple in testing that Id like to remove but am unable to figure out how.

I would also like some form of auto-downsizing of uploaded photos as well as the ability for activity streams to list items in pages, rather than a continuously scrolling page.  

Ive given up on Shapeways.  Its clear theyre on a path of self destruction.  Quite worrying that it required the communitys input (without access pricing algorithms) to raise doubts of the effectiveness of the new pricing systems.  The company refuses to run tests themselves in closed environments and is using the company and its users as guinea pigs.  

Id hope they can fix the company and continue into the future, but at this point its not looking likely. 

That newest plan is definitely a modern industrial spur.  Bare minimum and plenty of storage space.

Even when you screw up, its better than my painting!

Looks very good. 

2 hours ago, Nile said:

How big are your photos? When I edit mine they come in under 1MB.

I usually crop my photos and they would upload fine. The ones above were about 3mb each, but it wouldnt let me put up to the maximum. 

Well to try posting here, my first notice is the quite low upload limit. Can only insert 2 or so pictures....not sure how thats reasonable for a forum so dedicated to photos...

But Ive been doing good work. 

The American is coming along. 

And I finished up that tugboat, or as done as Im going to make it.

Now I just need to figure out how to post more damn photos as it wont let me upload any more. 

Anyone know how to change settings for message notifications?

Message notification options are the only ones locked away as active.

3 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

Interesting ... I know I am on a mobile view, being on an iPad,, but i’ve no continuously scrolling pages in topic listings or topic sections ... just usual page numbers with next/prev which reload the page as on the old site.

On desktop, topic listings are showing as a continuous page with a "load more content" button at the bottom which just expands the page downward.  

On mobile Im getting the same. "load more content", not page options

Another fault possibly.  Or just hasnt kicked on yet.

Im unable to create a "Content Feed".

Really I just want to recreate the "View New Content" so I can just easily browse all topics and posts since I last visited, but it doesnt actually save the choices I make when I hit save.

And a definite thumbs down from me regarding the lack of pages in topic listings.  Things like continuously scrolling pages start slowing down loading times and make it very hard to judge just how many 'pages' you have to sort through.  Not to mention some mobile browsers tend to jump back to page top when going between tabs, thus making it near impossible to go through a long list.  I hope this can be changed as the old software definitely had both at times.  You could load more content into that page OR leave that page and go to the next one.  

Fault I just found.

If you quote someone, then try to remove said quote, you cant delete the actual quote formatting, only the message.

To delete it, (Alt+Right click) and click remove quote.  Then the comment locks up and you cant type anything.

If you choose remove quote contents it works. 

Not sure why both options are needed. 

Correction.  Deleting message contents the old fashioned way, the quote box locks up and must be deleted by alt+right click and "remove quote"

if you hit the other option the comment locks up.  

Hard to explain...

1 minute ago, russ p said:

I always used the posts since last visit that's gone and you can't go or don't seem to be able to go to the most recent post on a thread.

Seems to be to many buttons to press than before

Ive noticed that too. On the "Content you follow" tab, theres no way to go to the newest page.  On regular topics, if you click the (time last post happened) text it appears to bring you to the newest page, but not the newest post.  While its not breaking by any means, its additional clicks which werent needed before.

Seems RMweb now suffers from that trend of "simplifying things" which only makes it harder to actually do what you want. 

Shame we've lost the "View New Content" feed. Was the only way I ever used RMweb.

Also not much a fan of the formatting.  All seems very jumbled to me.  

Problem with "Philips head" screws is theres a stupid number of official and variant specifications.  

It looks like you may have to carefully drill it out as its deep in a hole. 

Since I only read RMweb on my break at work...I guess Ill still not be doing work!

Quite the space there. Plus open land for a garden line!

Without a link to the product, theres not much anyone can do.

Why not contact the designer on shapeways? Surely they would know best what it was designed for.

Quite scummy of eBay to make offers then delete them from their system afterwards.  

Those two MR opens on the rear track definitely have diagonal bracing at one end.  And the closer of the two does Not have corner ironwork which means end door. 

The other two MR opens appear to be normal D299s

Hello everyone

 

Recently I found a kitmaster beyer garrat going for cheap on ebay, however I would like to take it apart to motorise/build it myself as that's the fun part of the kit. Assuming that the seller made it with modelling glue, would there be a way to un-bond the suser glue?

Thanks

If put together with a plastic solvent glue, not really a chance.  These glues 'weld' the material together and its often difficult if not impossible to remove a part with minimal damage.  

If a non-solvent based glue was used, possibly if said glue has a removal chemical which somehow does not attack plastic. 

I understand your comments Spitfire & many thanks. Would you ignore the positive feed that Peco have indicated after the 3 way before the adjacent point? Going with your favoured system would I need 9 seperate switches on the control panel for all 9 feeds or could any feeds be combined where isolation is not necessary?

Regards.

not sure what you mean by "positive feed....after the 3 way".  Peco's plan relies on a different wiring principal to mine.  

For the isolated sections, only if you want isolated sections.  

In my plan as drawn, you could, as per normal DCC wiring, have two bus wires along the underside of the board and wire all power droppers to the respective bus(upper and lower rail), and run the frog polarity wire to your point motor(wiring your point motor into your transformer auxiliary power so you can operate points when trains arent running).  In this situation, All tracks will be powered to your transformer at all times, perfect for single locomotive on DC or multiple locos on DCC.

If you wanted to add isolating sections, you would need to identify exactly Where and How long each isolated section would be and then insert IRJ to block that section off (If not already isolated by IRJ on a point frog or if in a different place) and run the power feed from that isolated section to a switch on your panel and then back to the power bus wire respective to the rail you have isolated.  In cases of isolated sections, I would personally go with a double pole switch and isolate both rails of a section, but thats just me and my typical 'belt and braces' approach to all work.  

If you want an entire siding isolated, you could add another IRJ at the end of the respective points stock rail and leave the entire siding isolated.  

Ultimately, the plan I have drawn above is the bare minimum for the modern "recommended" wiring scheme for all track being powered.  Any changes such as isolated sections/block sections is added on top of the plan already and should not change what is already there. 

If you can on a drawing clearly identify where you would like isolated sections, I would be happy to modify my drawing to illustrate exactly what you need with a wiring schematic to your control panel. 

Looking at Peco's plan, I would not go with it.

It relies solely on fishplate continuity and doesnt allow any proper isolated sections. 

Even if you only have one loco on at a time and need no isolated sections, wiring everything as if you were going to is incredibly helpful for running qualities.

There are few people now a days which will not advocate for the full wiring that DCC requires, usually because they know after a while the traditional simple wiring just doesnt cut it.  

I would not reduce the number of track feeds if I were you. But if you must, just trace every rail length to where it naturally terminates, whether it be an IRJ, track end, or point frog.  That one length needs a feed.  

(Actually looking over my plan again, the only two that arent "critical" are the two rightmost "red" feeds as they are satisfied further left.  But I would still HIGHLY recommend soldering a track feed to EVERY rail length, or at MOST limiting yourself to as little reliance on fishplates as you can.  I know soldering to points can be a little difficult, especially with how expensive some of them were.

On a previous (now scrapped) layout, I had to modify and solder together a doubleslip and point due to space constraints.  Not to mention the joint between them had to then be strengthened with copperclad and cut across a folding baseboard joint!  It was quite the harrowing experience needing to cut apart and put together expensive points.

Your response from Peco sounds like they are giving a simpler plan than modern wiring recommends so as to make it easier for you.

However for DCC, and DC if you want blocks or isolating sections for multiple locos, the modern practice.

Here, Ive drawn over your plan to illustrate exactly where IRJ and power feeds need to be for full operation. 

Blue is an IRJ, Red and Green are your pos and neg power feeds, however you wish to use them.

If you wanted to go with frog polarity switching using DPDT switches, youll have to chop the frog wires underneath the points and bridge between switchrails and the adjacent stock rail. 

For the 3 way, unless theres some weird frog wiring underneath, this should work.

Ive added extra power feeds in certain spots which arent completely needed but its best to not rely on fishplates for your power transfer between track sections.  

Anyone see any issues with this plan?

Im not too familiar with peco's 3 way.

I'm hopefully soon moving to a larger home where I will plan a new layout. 

Best of luck with that move.

Sad?

I find it disgusting that such narrow minded bigots exist, let alone have the cheek to write to you in PMs.

How about you name and shame?

I have always liked Gauge 1 German and remember a shed scene at the old Oxford GRS show.

I was very tempted by a P8 but lack the room to be able to run it realistically.

Don't let the *****loks get you down.

Bernard

I was one of such people to give suggestions of other forums with more G1 activity, however I never implied it wasnt welcome here, and that was never my intent.  

However I have noticed after several years here that larger scale modelling is very much a minority of a minority and if you come here expecting activity beyond what you make yourself, you will be waiting a while.  

Which is why Ive moved my own large scale modelling to more active forums.  

Still doesnt make RMweb a bad place for good discussion and impressive modelling.