Mick Bonwick

Whilst that is certainly true, I'm hoping to avoid wires crossing the gap, either under the (planned) carpet or up and over the top. The alternative to wires crossing the gap is to run them around the layout, and I don't have enough wire for that! Thank you for the suggestion, nonetheless.

I'll have one of what he's drinking.

The arches in the facade of the model do not have the stone supports that the real thing has. Wouldn't the floor above them collapse? This is not a criticism of your modelling, more an observation on another aspect of Hornby's strange way of producing a model of something. Still, if it's only based on something real, it only has to have a passing resemblance, doesn't it? A bit like basing a model on Easton, Isle of Portland, rather than making an accurate model of it.

This is neither the time nor the place to be using such language. Kindly go elsewhere.

At the moment they do just as you suggest - crash into the flap. The plan (yes, there is one) is for a similar arrangement on that side as well. The isolated section has been created but not yet separated from the main power feed. I have yet to work out where to place the switches. I will at least remember to put them where the flap will operate them. He said, confidently.

I did have to connect up a set of wires to establish which contacts worked with which switch setting, but I'm used to doing that. Much of my electrical work depends on trying it out first to see what works. I am not capable of reading about it and understanding it straight away. In this case the elcetrical connections were understood before I started work on the actual switches. What didn't work was the positioning of the switches. The right hand one in the first photograph wasn't actually being touched by the flap framework when the flap came down. Nowhere near it, in fact. I had to remove both switches from their initial position and fix them back in place an inch or two to the left (reversing the state of the left hand one to make room for the right hand one), as you can see from the number of holes in the framework. This has all taken a couple of days, you understand. It all seems so quick and easy when you condense it into a couple of posts on here.

I know all about that, had plenty of practice!

The lifting flap saga continues. The microswitches that I ordered have come out of quarantine and been fitted. I created a 2' long section leading up to the flap that would have power cut off if the flap is raised more than 2mm. The switches were wired up without any soldering being done, to test out my logic, and all was fine. I set to and rewired the end of the main board where the switches were located, and solered evrything in place and tidied up the wiring where it came through the framework. Out came the multi-meter again, just to check it all worked before playing testing trains (more than one vehicle at a time). Failure. Everything was double checked for bad connections and the cause seemd to be the right hand microswitch. I tested the contacts with the multi-meter and it was fine. Coffee. See if you can spot what the difference is now. It is working perfectly. Go on, laugh!

I suspect that the problem with your older product is that the particles are too large to fall into the troughs of your matt surface. That's how Mig, Abteilung, AK interactive et al work - the small particles lodge in those troughs. There is a fluid that can be used to get particles to stick to a surface, but I suggest it won't work for subtle weathering effects below 7mm scale. The fluid is generally known as pigment fixer. You could also try isopropyl alcohol or white spirit as a fixer, but note that these do not fix the pigment permanently. It will rub off if touched, so is not really suitable for use on something that will be handled.

Wot? No cartoon?

And a few railway modellers, as well.

Tha anticipation is crippling me already.

I think that's a question for @t-b-g, he who knows everything.

Dictionary definitions that I have seen have all stated that a locomotive and attached vehicles are considered to be a train. That does not mean that I have looked at every single available dictionary definition. Nor does it mean that the development or evolution of the English language has been recorded in all dictionaries. That little devil Stu has obviously been here before and is inciting riots amongst Kevin's followers. I still say, "No". If it's only a railcar then I would describe it as a railcar, not a train. Personal opinion.

No.

I find it difficult to believe that any railway modeller has got more stock than will fit on his layout. I think you're pulling our collective leg.

No, of course not.

No, of course not.

Late crop.

I have been prompted by a building shown in @KNP's thread to have a look back at some photographs taken of the layout built in the roof space at the Alton Model Centre. Kevin's extensive rework of a Hornby Skaledale building on Little Muddle looks like this: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120848-little-muddle/page/266/&tab=comments#comment-3992438 Without any work being done to it, but plonking it directly onto a suitable space on the layout at Alton, it looked like this: This building was marketed as a station building, but I think it was far better suited to a country house identity. I now wonder how many other resin ready-to-plant buildings could be used for purposes other than the originally intended one. I know at least one other person ( NHY 581 ) who will have a view on this.

Thanks very much for a timely warning, Mark. My heart sank when I read your post, but when I eventually thought about in earnest, I don't think it will present me with a problem, The same might not be true for anybody who might have rushed onto the Internet and bought some, though. The connections to be put through these devices are all for control panel LED links to point motor contacts and switches, and for SPDT switch links from control panel to accessory decoders. No DCC current involved at all, it's all 12v DC low current stuff. Phew! High current devices are all connected direct to a power bus, and the point motors themselves are driven direct from the accessory decoders.

Isn't it amazing the lengths people go to, to ensure that their wares are found by people using search engines? If I advertised a weathered O2 for sale it would have to be worded something like, "British Railways Steam Locomotive Engine Train Class O2 Southern Region Black Dirty Weathered Grimy Dirt Filth Used Working Smoky Not J15".

If you take a look at my flickr images. you'll see (I think) that most of the locomotives exhibit that 'warm' look. It was something drummed onto me by my mentor when I first started down this weathering path, and I've always tried to bear it in mind. It seems to work nearly all the time.

Thanks, Rob. I favour browns with a red tint when I mix my paint for the bodywork areas. Humbrol's 72 or Railmatch Frame Dirt usually, but occasionally Revell Dark Earth if I want a more yellow tone. I'm surprised, nay, shocked, to learn that a man with Southern leanings does not have an O2. I think you should rectify that, now.

It's your railway!