Mick Bonwick

I'm not sure which spell-checker you use, but I certainly haven't previously come across one that interprets n-u-d-g-e as plunger. Or is that just the product of some sinck persons humour? I think, nonetheless, that the answer to your question can be found quite easily if you do a little gnomework.

Oooh, yum! I'll be ready for anything after nudging some of those.

It's OK. A quick nudge will rectify things.

~ A. At the bottom of the bowl, as soon as it is drained. B. Even if they have, they're not likely to last that long now that their presence has been advertised. C. No. D. Just round the corner. Surely you knew that? Or is this just another of your tests?

If you have trouble getting to sleep tonight because of the heat, try reading this: https://www.psa.ac.uk/sites/default/files/conference/papers/2018/VanDeun_vanAcker_Fobé_Brans_Nudging_Scoping Review.pdf Not a canopy in sight. The world is going to pot. There's no point in nudging it in a different direction, either.

Maybe so, but by 19:00 on the same day it was already out of date.

Animal nudging was, presumably, in its infancy at the time. I'm sure there must now be training sessions available for domestic animals with nudging tendencies. You'd have to catch them early, though, because I've heard (and this may not be true, of course) that you can't teach an old nudger new tricks.

Huh! I'll bet he said it more than once!

A master of his craft. Not noticed at first glance. The shunter would have a hard time with that one!

Are you there on holiday, visiting relatives, or just having a quick nudge on the sly?

Household emulsion from a tester pot, in the right shade, will do the job when mixing up. It will last for ages, too!

If it was mine, I'd not bother about that one little bit. A photograph will always show up the slightest imperfections, but if I'm only going to view my models from a distance of three feet or more while they're running on my layout, and cannot therefore see these lines, then that's absolutely fine. If 3D printing is the only way I can get something that I can't do without then disadvantages such as these would be acceptable.

This forum is a vast repository of knowledge, and a little bit of searching in the following topics will give you most, if not all, of the information you seek. There is a lot of it. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/62-dcc-fitting-guides/ https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/29-weathering-painting-transfers/

The final tasks for this project are to sort out the cab windows and finish off the dirt and mud effects. The muck on the windows is removed by dipping a cotton bud into white spirit and gently rubbing the glazing until the underlying Dullcote softens and comes off. I have deliberately not got right into all the corners to leave a film of dirt there.. The glazing can be polished with a dry clean cotton bud to finish off with. Final touches to the dirt and mud involve abrasion to some areas to remove the surface pigment to reveal the differing tones underneath. Difficult to describe exactly how to do this, except to say, "Poke and see what happens!" The filbert brush still has some pigment residue on it, so it is dragged across a few edges and corners to add that little bit of definition to the detail.

There's some sneaky subterfuge being nudged along on this forum. There's more nudging going on in this world than I thought . . . . . . https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120848-little-muddle/page/184/&tab=comments#comment-3614840

Only when in too much of a hurry to effect the necessary adjustments at the appropriate time.

Being of a suspicious nature, I'd be more inclined to think that you've been saving this revelation until such a time as it becomes relevant to a topical discussion.

The application of the darkest of the three pigments is performed in a slightly different way. The work area was cleared of anything that might attract pigment and thus become discoloured. Contrary to general advice and practice, Filbert the brush was dipped into the Burnt Umber pot to collect the pigment. This was because the larger pigment particles were deliberately being targetted for use in this step. The brush was then held in one hand, close to the area to be discoloured, and flicked hard with a finger of the other hand. The result is that the pigment is propelled from the brush in the general direction of the model (if your aim is any good) and lands randomly on targetted areas. In this case those areas are the wheels, lower cab sides and engine cowling. In this case the previous layer of pigment (Dark Earth) was not sealed with Dullcote, so that an element of mixing of the two colours could be performed in the next step . . . . . . . .

It's a good idea to prepare the surface before you place any pigment. A shiny rubber tyre won't accept pigment, so I spray with a coat of Testor's Dullcote. Once that is dry (10 minutes maximum) the pigment is added in SMALL quantities at a time. You will see from previous articles in this blog that my method of making things dirty never involves very much at all in the way of materials. This process also reduces the chance of overwhelming. Here's another example:

The next stage of dirtification was to add another layer of pigment, using the slightly darker shade of Dark Earth. This was added to the existing layer by simply using the pot lid technique and plonking the pigment on top of the Europe Earth layer. I needed to put a layer of Dullcote onto the Europe Earth first, though, or the new layer would have just fallen off. If you try this, don't get the aerosol nozzle too close to the model or the blast will remove your carefully crafted earlier attempt! I distributed the Dark Earth over a wider area than the Europe Earth, just to introduce some variety to the discolouration. You can see the effect on the cab sides and roof, and randomly selected other parts.

Hi Owain, I don't plan to pose it anywhere in any position. This is a weathering exercise. I suppose I could nudge it in an appropriate direction, though, even if it isn't a canopy. The first step in the series mentioned the name of the pigment, and if you enter that name into your favourite search engine you will receive several supplier names as a result. I can't remember which of them I bought it from - it was a while ago and my memory isn't as good as it used to be. At least, I don't think it is.

There could be a reason for that.

It has simply been nudged out of place. If you wait around here long enough, it will reappear.

It has simply been nudged out of place. If you wait around here long enough, it will reappear.

I think, sir, that you'll find that it is Grocer's Droop. Nudger's Droop would have seen a much more --- er --- nudged effect.