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MattB

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Blog Entries posted by MattB

  1. MattB

    A Small TMD - Part 5

    By MattB,


    General
    Work progressing on the front scenic module with the cabin now added, currently making the Palisade fence. 
     
    Fuel point off board under construction.
     
    Currently making a CANPAN for controlling the lcb switches at this end.
     
    Lights fitted in shed but non operational at present.
     
    Yard lighting Testing in progress. 
     
     

  2. MattB

    Building the Control Panel - Part 4

    By MattB,


    Control Panels
    Quite a while ago I managed to break something with the wiring on the control panel that caused a glitch on the programming for all the switches so I had the TM7 board 'temporally' on the CANPAN. Several months later and several more servos and relays now online and I realised that I had to reluctantly return to the control panel and try and figure out what had gone wrong. 
     
    Disconnected the LED wiring from the circuit board (no change) Fiddled with some switches and and found a fault, with not just 1 switch but 2 of them! Typical!   
    So two switches (which equals 8 functions) now temporally out of action. 24 functions still working and I now have 11 functions programmed, with two more functions coming once I get 4 more servos installed. So not to worry too much for a while. The great thing about using CBUS is that I was able to simply re-programme the event functions that were using those switches over to other switches and carry on with minimum fuss. 
     
    Well to be quite honest I have decided that the panel I have built doesn't quite meet the bill. It was a good first attempt but I think I need to have the LEDs on a mimic panel map as that will be far easier to read and install plus I need a code sheet on the panel itself so I know which switch does what event. Also I think having the panel slot inside the box instead of hinging ontop of it will look far neater than it does now. Also using toggle switches that return to centre - maybe I should use push buttons with an internal LED as having had 2 toggle switches fail so quickly doesn't give much faith in them.
     
    Mimic panel diagrams and this is my strength having drawn one for real for a heritage railway. I drew something quickly on paper  and pinned it to the ceiling (no walls in the loft) and then proceeded to draw something more professional on AutoCAD for all my boards and functions so far. How I get the LEDs onto the underside of the mimic panel diagram and then attach to the sloping ceiling well that will need a bit more planning but should be fairly doable except I will need a wiring bundle (x12 wires for each CANPAN) to go under the board and up the ceiling from each splitter board.
     

  3. MattB

    A small TMD - Part 4

    By MattB,


    General
    I finished construction of the scale scenes diesel depot, now down to a single road, clearances are a little tight (due to a central heating valve) so large locos can't fit but small ones can.
     
    I swapped the old container crane to the other end and the fuelling siding will now be alongside the tanks but I need to add pipes at some point to the tankers siding.
     
    Now working on a west hill wagon works test facility. Its going in the siding alongside the shed on a separate module.
     
    Need to continue the duct routes and add some orange ducts under the tracks  

  4. MattB

    A return to the lower deck - part 3

    By MattB,


    Layout Wiring
    First semaphore signal installed and working.
     
    2x front crossover points all wired up and working, have installed microswitches for frog polarity.
     
    Now I know the wiring configuration the rest should be straight forward enough although I need to build a daughter board for the CANMIO to enable 16 outputs for the servos.
     
    When I took the photo of the signal I had power to it but had wired the relay up wrong so that it wasn't moving but it is now. - (Its a CANPAN, to CANACC8 to a relay to the signal)
     
    Wiring on the underside of the board is a mess while I figure out how to wire things up. But going forward I now know how it all works
     
    Crossover on the far right is now powered and tested with locomotive (4 left to do on this board). Had a short for quite a while until I realised that the power rail going to the V on the point was one of the end pins on the microswitch not the middle one (like PECOs). Whoops!
     
    Edit -further adjustments to servos coming out of the branch followed by a change to the configuration and adding the polarity wiring means i now have the next crossover working off another switch.


  5. MattB
    Continuing work on this part of the project over the May Day weekend.
    2 servos now installed in the shed area (merg servo vertical mounts) and programmed. Eventually I will programme them to run off one switch as they are a crossover but still testing them out and need to add the polarity wiring so keeping them separate.
     
    I think I need a ground signal here prior to the catchpoint (on the shed side) ( Also a signal with a shunt signal on the other side facing toward the shed. I need to read up on how these signals would have been placed as ideally I want them installed before ballasting.
     
    I took up the central crossover as it wasn't level. This point motor needs replacing with a dingo servo mount
     
    Recent visit to Thornbury Show where I purchased 3x left hand SLE 92s points (Code 100). Interestingly these days the manufacturer puts in a option for livefrog so instead of cutting rails all I had to do was snip a couple of wires out from the underside. Many years ago I had all sorts of problems with shorts on DCC using insulfrog and discovered that modifying electrofrog points to Brian Lamberts 'livefrog' was a good solution.
     
    Started install of goods loop crossover, 1 point is in and the other needs a bit more cutting of rail for it to sit neatly.
     
    Lots of SG90 servos needed now
    At least 3 Dingo servo mounts and for the rest Merg will do.
    Probably need another electronic module at this end to operate signals.
     
    Still quite a bit of mess from the old track layout to cover up again with scenery.
     
    Point rodding also to do, having seen that on exhibition layouts I think it should be installed. But light ballast might be needed in the cess areas first.
     
    So essentially I will have up / down main line. Branch Single line and then sidings on both front and rear of layout.


  6. MattB

    A return to the lower deck - Part 1

    By MattB,


    General
    With the top deck tmd nicely underway I decided that it was time to return to the lower deck. I had already started work on it by repainting the front to a dark green and painting the rear to a matt sky (white colour)and adding viaduct arches to give the effect that the top deck is on a bridge rather than flying in the air.
     
    I took a critical look at the existing track layout on Baseboard 1 and decided that it wasn't quite right and that the crossovers were located in the wrong place and there was no catchpoint either for the loco shed located at the front of the layout. Although the layout isn't based on a real location I would prefer if it appears to be correct in the way it is laid out. 
     
    Due to the position of the loft hatch I have found that the geometry of the old layout wouldn't work and even with removing the end meant I still couldn't fit in radius 4 or larger curves in at this end. So I decided to move the station completely round the corner on to the next couple of baseboards.
     
    I have decided to add a goods loop. I haven't space for a relief line but have noticed some station layouts of this era operated without one. 
     
    Removed all the track that was on the front of the layout and all the ballast for recycling. This was originally laid in 2009 so its been here a while. Re-laid track swapped the crossover round so that layover locos can be stored easily in a siding but also easily access the water tower and coaling siding. Started installing the crossover which needed some transition pieces as this is code 75 and then ran out of points. 
     
    Installed 2 servo mounts with servos and microswitches ready for the CANMIO.
     
    Two steps forward one step back though...
    I decided to swap around the wiring of the 4 remaining solenoid point motors but I had a bit of disaster 😢😢😢 when wiring up onto my remaining working CANSOL. I dropped a screw and although the power was off there must have been some charge in the circuit still and I have shorted it and fried some of the components. (this was after 2 hours of re-wiring so I was a little annoyed). However I still see using CBus as a game changer to layout control and although I am disappointed with the CANSOLs (as they are expensive in my view for the number of outputs and seem to be prone to faults (all 3 I have no longer work correctly) I have decided to change all the points over to servo operation which will require 1 CANMIO with a daughter board added giving me 16 outputs (for 16 points). Having already fitted several servos to the top deck in hard to reach areas of the layout I think installing servos on the lower deck should work well but I need to get the frog polarity microswitches working correctly to prevent shorts as this deck is DCC. Have looked into frog juicers but I think they are a bit pricey and the control system seems to work ok with microswitches at present.
     
    Overall pleased with what will hopefully be a more enjoyable layout to operate. One photo below the signal box is one out of storage and needs to some paintwork and changes to the base.

  7. MattB

    A Small TMD - Part 3

    By MattB,


    General
    Finished the rear module with some more scenery and walls
    Spray painted primer onto the ratio container crane that I have had in storage, unfortunately I have lost some of the parts during the house move so its going to be a 'condemned' structure' unless I can fix it  so I have started dry brushing streaks of rust and grime onto this. This will be an ongoing project that I will add to over time. Technically it should be placed a bit further to the right but I haven't the space available due to clearances.
     
    Some social media gave me inspiration for where to place the oil tanks. Its a wills kits that I have had since the nineties and they have not found at home. Decided to place them on the module next to the crane and built a wall around them on three sides. Don't know whether to add a gate or not. Other scenery added around.
     
    Added scenery onto the signal box module with a mixture of landscaping, sleepers and discarded rail. Nice to visually have something here rather than bare boards.

    Spot the birds...
     
     
     




  8. MattB

    A small TMD - Part 2

    By MattB,


    General
    Been working hard on this part of the layout.
     
    Signal box - I have built the scale scenes brick signal box. I wanted a 1930s style design. This is placed on its own scenic module which is a 3mm piece of mdf (kitchen unit back). Between the module and the cork track is a concrete duct run that I am constructing to run the length of top deck layout but starting it here since ive never used it before. Basic scenery of scatters is now laid on this module
     
    Engine shed - I have had a peco 2 road depot for many years but I have decided that it just doesn't fit the 'look' I am trying to go for. So having built two scales scenes kits I have decided to have a go at making the diesel depot. At present I have to spend a lot of time not in the railway room so having kits to make out of card and printed paper is actually quite useful. Old engine shed probably dump it on flea-bay for a quid and see if I can get anything for it! To save printing costs I used an online print company.
     
    Control - Relays are installed now so have 3 controllable sections. MERG universal relay boards made this job easy. Control is still via the main panel but will build smaller panel when I get round to it. 
     
    Backscene - Experimenting with canvas, have some spare roll left over from a decorating project and also a lot of green, pale blue and overcast colour paint
     
    Rear scenic module and low relief warehouse - this is practically finished, mixture of scale scenes and scale model scenery here and various bits and bobs from the spares box. I am pleased with how this part is going
     
    Oil tanks - was going to buy some new ones but in the end I have decided to use the old wills kits ones so just to add some pipes
     
    Crane - Have a crane needs an overhaul
     
    Cabin to build - another model that can be done outside of the railway room.



  9. MattB

    Building the Control Panel - Part 3

    By MattB,


    Electronics
    A big pause on all model railway projects for several months due to 'life'. Actually I only managed to build 1 model over 3 months!
     
    But in February I tried to remember where I had got to with the control panel. Back in October I managed to get the switches working and figured out how I was supposed to wire it all up. Essentially its a matrix on a grid where there are 12 switches but 4 switches switch on the other 8. So 4 switches are in on / off mode and the 8 are in on/off/on mode with one of the 'ons' unpowered. The throw reverts back to the off central position. I used these switches since I have surplus of them rather than using push buttons. I have 32 switches altogether and about 14 are working something. 
     
    Back then I couldn't get the LEDs working so I parked it and then model railway life had its pause.
     
    In February coming back to the model railway I tried a different sort of LED, played around with the programming and it switched on under test. So this was good news and I started working out how I was going distribute them. I have a stripboard distribution board over the IDC board which eliminates the use of larger terminal blocks and then an LED bank underneath. However I have found with the first one that splitting them into a bank of 4 LEDs per stripboard might be easier.
     
    Currently have a problem / glitch not sure what it is but is something to do with this part of the panel and basically affects the data input so currently the layout is setup on the TM7 board temporally while I figure out what I have 'broken'.
     
    Sometimes I look at how many wires and I think have I made this too complicated. Then I look at the old panel which was the same size and only supported 9 points and massive bundle of wiring and I think its not too bad!


  10. MattB

    A small TMD - Part 1

    By MattB,


    General
    I have this short end of baseboard on the top deck outside the main loop that after a bit of playing around with track I have decided will work as a small TMD. I haven't built one of these before.
    The thing is I wouldn't mind having a bit of modern lighting on this end, plus its next to the bench so good as a test track for analog models. 
     
    I am building this somewhat on the cheap, Track, wiring, point control, electronics is from my spares, models the same. Might use scale scenes for several of the models (they have some free ones), I have some card and just need printer ink.
     
    Era - 1980s / 1990s (since this is when most of my 'modern' stock is dated from.
     
    Years ago I regularly used to pass the train care facility in Bournemouth which borders the A35 (on the old Bournemouth West station approach trackbed). There was a greenish building which I always wondered what it was but now I think its a train wash facility, so I have scratchbuilt one. I twisted together two coloured Pipe cleaners for the wash brushes. I think the result looks quite effective, bit of touching up to do with paintwork. Roof was from a previous scratchbuilt canopy. Ideally it would be better if this was on the track that the 156 is on so I might shift it and have the fuel depot on the other line. Still thinking about it and might need to relay the track a bit to get it to fit.
     
    Controller is a Gaugemaster Model 100 linked to a gaugemaster transformer, conveniently located next to the workbench. Might need a walkaround plug in as the main controller is several metres away and could create difficulties for exiting onto the mainline which is on a seperate controller and in a different section or I leap frog the control wiring and install another relay to control that (now that's an idea). Plan is to have a separate CBUS CANPAN down this end with an event setup on a small panel to change points and signals for accessing mainline but also have the same event setup on the main control panel.
     
    Test loco is the 07 which happily trundles around this board.
     
     



  11. MattB

    Building the Control Panel - Part 2

    By MattB,


    Electronics
    Following completion of the woodwork a few months ago I have recently re-started the control panel project as the number of switches on the temporary board is steadily increasing.
     
    First I installed my CANUSB and CANPAN / TM7 temporary board inside the left hand panel and its been like that for a few months while I pondered where to go next with it and extended the CBUS around the layout.
     
    I have now cut the woodwork (3mm ply) and screwed / bolted to a couple of hinges for the panel top.
     
    Recently I was lucky to procure some IDC patch boards from a MERG member for getting the wiring sorted between the CANPAN and the switches and LEDs. I am still figuring out which wire goes where and will likely setup something on a breadboard before installing it on the main panel
     
    I have worked out that I am having a switchbank rather than a mimic panel as I haven't the space for a mimic panel. I have plotted the switch and LED positions on some graph paper (better to make mistakes here before drilling holes)
     
    Intend to have 24 switches per panel and 64 LEDs running off two CANPANs. The system works by having 1 (of 4) switch powering up 8 switches at a time so I only need 12 switches for each CANPAN and I am intending to have 4 CANPANS altogether. Noting that 1 switch could actually make a series of items move i.e. place signals to danger, move point 1, move point 2, clear signals....
     
    I am using on-off-on toggle switches that I already have where the toggle returns to the off position. I could use the down position potentially as another switch but will probably leave it un-used
     
    Am waiting for a IDC crimping tool and some LED holders (and LEDs) to turn up before I can push this project forwards

     
     

  12. MattB

    Scenic Corners

    By MattB,


    Scenery
    Been working on two of my corners that are on the top deck and close under the house roof.
     
    A few years back I built this corner on a previous layout. I couldn't find a way to incorporate that part of the layout in the new layout so decided to chop off the corner and re-use it here. However it wasn't quite big enough so I attached it to a foamboard base and extended it out the back and made a grassy / vegetation covered slope on the front.
     
    The pump house is the ratio one but there wasn't enough room for the chimney so I have shortened it slightly. I originally made it in around 1987 (it was on a corner of a layout back then too!)
     
    For the next corner I wanted to have a low landscape slope and had the perfect building that I could fit in under the house roof. It didn't survive moving house very well so I had to rebuild it, install the window glaze and then I went chimney pot hunting but unfortunately I didn't have enough. This building isn't connected to running water (but will be connected to electricity soon). I used my method of plywood frame, mesh wire and some old plastercloth. I painted the area brown (soil) and then laid a mixture of 20% gravel and 80% brown dirt which I had salvaged off an old layout. I sieved this through so as not to get lumpy bits on the surface. Left this to dry and proceeded to make up the horse drawn wagon kit which I thought would fit in well here. Made a well and found a bucket, the little building was a previous scratchbuild, added a privy to the rear. Used static grass with some wild flower tufts in random locations (random tufts planted first), then added some fruit trees. Need to do some touching up on the left and I ran out of some materials and ran out of time for the day.
     
    Currently working on the LED but cannot find a resistor that works with my voltage and gives a good enough brightness on the LED. Something to experiment with.
     




  13. MattB

    Relays and Servos

    By MattB,


    General
    For the last few weeks I have spent time working on installing more servo motors, laying more track, extending the top deck of the baseboard in the corner (a mis measurement when cutting it meant I couldn't fit the inner radius in) and starting to install the sections using relay switches.
     
    With the servos I am experimenting with a different type of mount, I found a type on Ebay which is just a L shape metal piece of angle with some holes and these are proving to be far better than the MERG ones. I have found that I have to bend the linkage wire to fine tune the movement of the point but I now have four servos up and running on a loop between tracks 1 and 2. These servos are running off 2 push button switches off the CANPAN TM7 board. 
     
    Now I am starting to make things move I have a CBUS events spreadsheet to keep track of all the different events that are generated.
     
    Last year I worked on figuring out how to get a relay working. I use those opto types which have several pins and at the time I was a little confused which pin went to what. I tested one out again and linked it up to some track and having got that working bought a few more.
     
    The plan is to have three isolating sections on tracks 1 and 2, with further isolated sections in the shed area on the heritage line. 
     
    2 of the dual relays are now installed under baseboard 1 which was the point where bus splits into two different directions. Unfortunately I have only one output module at the moment (a CANACC8) and since this is located centrally under board 1 the wire run down to the relays was rather long. But at least it was only 5 wires altogether in 1 bundle! (4 event wires and 1 power wire). I installed two of my new terminal blocks here as well. One issue I did have was getting access to the ACC8 so I solved that by spinning it round 180 degrees! Left the experiment board attached to it so I can see that the events are working. 
     
    I've got everything working on the test panel and its great, I have only the one line working but I have the ability and space to run 2 trains on it but can now stop a train while letting the other one catch up to it.
     
     


  14. MattB

    Points and Track

    By MattB,


    Trackwork
    I have started working on the trackwork on the top deck. I had already laid track 1 which is at the rear and added in the points ready for the rest of the trackwork on this deck. I have now extended track 2 to a loop and started work on track 3
     
    The idea of this deck is for it not to be prototypical but to be more of a tail chaser with a heritage line bolted onto the front of it. That way I can run items that are of a different era (and my older Lima stock) and I hope the height difference will provide some separation between old and new. However I am installing signals and point motors here and generally trying things out that I haven't really done before. Im using Peco Code 100 track mostly streamline with the odd bit 
     
    Fiddling around with the track layout on a fairly narrow short space basically meant I couldn't fit in niceties like catchpoints or headshunts due to the geometry. I have even got the link between the heritage line half down the loop when really it should be at one end.
     
    Because its running older models on DC I had decided not to install too many points on the main running line (probably 3 each) to reduce stalling or derailments. Its about 700mm from the front of the layout and there is limited headroom above which makes re-railing quite difficult.
     
    I spent the weekend in the loft laying track, installing wiring & electronics and getting it all to work.
     
    I have one MERG CANMIO that will be driving 8 servo point motors, but have now bought the addon daughter board so I can power up a further 8. Its intended to eventually have at least 12 to 16 points on this side of the layout on the top deck. I successfully installed and tested 2 servo point motors on a crossover and have them programmed off one switch off the CANPAN TM7 board. The CANPAN is now in the main control panel and wiring has been very easy so far with only bus wires needed. 
     
    I missed out several drop downs (what a numpty) so I had to take some track up and relay it as I solder my drop downs to the underside of the fishplates.
     
    New wiring bus for the heritage railway that is connected to a Type E gaugemaster controller. Eventually the plan is to add an autoshuttle for this track which will be around 6m long.
     
    Wiring is a bit untidy at present but want to get all the servos in place before tidying it all up


  15. MattB

    1 year on.

    By MattB,


    General
    Success! I have a train running in a circuit around the room. 
     
    Bit of tweaking to do, following an hours operation, one of the rails on baseboard 13 isn't seated correctly in the sleeper, so will have to get that sorted to prevent potential derailments and i somehow wired the bus up wrong when i brought the wires in from behind baseboard 1. Easy fix (hopefully) to do in next session.
     
    These photos are taken on the 18th May 2021 and today so you can see how much progress i have made in a year. Bearing in mind i work plus have other commitments.
     
     
     
     

     

  16. MattB

    Scenery complete (in 2020)

    By MattB,


    General
    I actually finished all the scenic work on this layout just before we moved house in 2020. Wish I had known about MERG back then it might have simplified some of the wiring for the lighting, not that I would have been able to solder stuff easily as back then the 'workbench' was 10'' 6'' tray!
     
    I' m tempted to take the track up at the points as the inner loop doesn't work that well. Also the back right corner is a bit tight and has always proved problematic with couplings of which I have tried various different types and methods.
     
    Anyway it was fun building it while I didn't have anything else to tinker with or run and a useful place to store all the 009 stock. Doesn't need dusting much.... lives under the main layout where it conveniently fits in one of the new drawers.
     
    Holtwood Light Railway - From the boxfile part of the forum
     



  17. MattB

    Building the Control Panel - Part 1

    By MattB,


    Baseboards
    The woodwork marathon goes on...
     
    While I am a roll I decided to build the control panel. I have never built a full control panel before that is designed to hold all the loco control and switching systems. First I measured the size of my controllers (3 of them) and then I physically walked round the area and decided how far I wanted the panel to stick out into the room. I have made it so that in future if I want to get a few more drawers they won't be impeeded by the support legs, also I have allowed some access gap at the ends so I can access the back left and right corners of the room which are tricky to access due to the ceiling being low. The panel will be bolted onto baseboard No.4 so that it is easily removably for access but also be supported by 4 tubular legs due to the weight of the controllers and transformers. I will probably screw the legs to the floor for extra stability. 
     
    I have used a mixture of ply and pine frame but also some L shaped hardwood pieces  that have smooth edges for the front and anywhere which might scuffed by a hand. (All the wood actually has come from scraps and some bits from an older layout) Control switch panels are set on a slight slope and I have two one for each side. I think I probably haven't made these quite big enough but I can fit some switches on the front that I will need for the CANPAN for each section of the layout. I think I am going to need 4 CANPANs to operate the 4 main sections of the layout with a 5th panel on the other side of the room. 
     
    I cut some large holes in the rear (large enough to fit plugs through) for all the wiring
     
    Planning to further sand it, paint it and apply some wood filler 


  18. MattB
    I decided that this was likely to be the most difficult element of the baseboard build. I trawled the internet and youtube looking for ideas for how to construct these bridges as from previous experience I knew the following
     
    They have to be rock solid and not move horizontally or vertically once in position Ideally they need contact connections without having to plug something in separately. They have to meet the connecting baseboards square on and not on an angle  
    DG Modelworks on youtube seemed to have the right idea I watched his two part videos (Making my Lift out Part 1 and 2) several times before deciding that this would be what I would go with. His baseboard thickness was different to mine so when I was building the 'abutments' I put in a 12mm piece of ply underneath the cut out section to take the dowels as they are around 10mm long.
     
    My baseboard is 9mm ply but it will be topped with 2mm cork so the intention is to lay the cork and then cut out where the dowels are so it doesn't create a bump on the cork surface.
     
    I prefer to use hand tools as I find although its slower I can be more precise.
     
    3 dowels are now in - I recommend using clamps to hold the bridge in place while drilling through the bridge deck and the abutment so it doesn't wobble.
     
    I did a rolling stock test to check I had the correct clearances, I used my widest Hornby stock to check the gauge. (all good). (I think im close to correct scale width)
     
    Next job on this is to put some support frame in as its a bit flimsy and also some L shaped pieces on the edges to help prevent accidents


  19. MattB

    Double decker baseboards

    By MattB,


    Baseboards
    Well I am still at building base board after baseboard. Work has progressed on baseboards 10,11,13 and 14. So I am nearly there. Baseboard 12 - I am not entirely sure what to do with it yet and it won't affect the main running of the layout so I am probably going to leave it for a while before constructing it.
     
    I am now at the more complicated end of the loft where I have to build the final corner which includes a removable bridge piece of the access walkway as well as being on a double deck. 
     
    Some of you might wonder why the bottom board of baseboard 10 and 11 doesn't extend all the way to the back and this is because I need to get easy access underneath to do the wiring. Wiring will be fairly simple here as im only using insulfrog points and dc control on the top deck but there still will be quite a few lights and other animations that I am planning plus point motors.
     
    This is the design im using for the bridge, I have watched quite a few videos and this guys bridge seems to be the best method.
     
    Making my lift out - Part 1 - YouTube
     
    Ive used 12mm ply for resting the bridge on because I need to cut out the slots for the metal contacts
     
    I have sourced the dowels that he used and do agree that they are the best for lining things up. My 9mm ply and 12mm ply is just thick enough to take these dowels. However I don't have to worry much because there is a 2mm cork sheet being placed over the top as well.
     
    Baseboard 14 was installed and then I decided I didn't like one of the corners that is protruding into the room so its currently back downstairs where I can cut off a large chamfer and rebuild the frame. 
    Baseboard 10 I got installed and then realised that I had built the top deck too far out and measured it wrong off the cad drawing so I had to rebuild it. (A lot of to and froing with the boards up and down the loft ladder!) but thats now in and butted up against baseboard 9 and 11. Baseboard 11 I mis-measured the top deck so had to cut a small chamfer but it will be fine once covered over with cork and scenery. Baseboard 13 I have a height difference to sort out and a leaning problem on the top deck so a bit more thought on the frame is needed here. Probably needs some triangular bracing.
     
    I had a general tidy up of the temporary controller area and added a auto reverse shuttle that I built from a MERG kit last year to the rear top deck track so I can go hands free despite not yet having a tailchaser loop.
     
    Did a lot drilling for wiring holes and bolts in all board frames
     
     
  20. MattB

    The last baseboard

    By MattB,


    Baseboards
    So I see we have lost all the images from the recent server problem. Oh well mine weren't that interesting just lots of wood frame and plywood!
     
    Nearly finished the 3 month marathon of building baseboards and other woodwork and getting it installed. I have now completed 14 baseboards and 15 top decks. Still to do are two 650mm long removable bridge sections and the main 1.2m long (x200mm wide)  control panel. I was rather pleased that after all the builds around the room I was only about 10mm out horizontally.
     
    I decided to build basebuild 12 which is located next to the bench and will utilise cassette storage on the top deck and possibly a wharf for the bottom deck or other hidden storage could work but that's for the future
     
    I built baseboard 14/ 15 top deck with a gap in the support frame so I can run a spur under a bridge here. All level first time fit which was a plus. 
     
    I had to rebuild baseboard 13 top deck with some extra supporting frame as it wasn't level - it is now!
     
    I bought a few more drawers from IKEA to increase storage - I can highly recommend using a cheap utility tray and got one that fits the whole tray - great for storing tools.
     
    The two photos:
     
    The one with the existing scenic layout (baseboard 1) butted up against baseboard 15 with 14 on the left. Top deck built last night installed but not secured yet. Baseboard 13 in foreground sitting ontop of a kitchen unit
     
    The one with the gap is taken from baseboard 13 looking across to baseboard 11, with baseboard 12 on the right and baseboard 10 on the left. All sitting on kitchen units with some of the new drawers installed on the right the idea being to empty the shelves for ease of access for wiring and maintenance. 2nd bridge for lower deck is wider an annoyingly straddles baseboards 11 and 10 on one side. Not yet finished the bridge support on the other side between the kitchen unit and the baseboards


  21. MattB
    (Edit - 24-02-22 I wrote this  blog post this on the morning of the day that my Mum passed away - Mum was very supportive of all my railway interests of model railways and volunteering I have literally just come back to my open computer and this was still on the screen)
     
    I only discovered about a year ago that its possible to use servo motors for controlling points. 
    Several advantages:
     
    Less power draw than solenoids Ability to slide blade over rather than an instant jump (klack) so more realistic operation. Cheaper overall to procure  
    Have now got two working under test one is mounted underneath a turnout on my temporary board. Have to link up the microswitch for polarity change. These first servos will be used on the DC part of the layout (top deck)
     
    Its powered via MERG CBUS modules CANPAN, CANMIO on a universal setup
     
    All work on lcb is now paused as I have decided to work on baseboards only and then have the ability to get a train running around the room. I have 12 out of 15 baseboard modules now constructed. Still to do are 4 top deck sections, 3 main baseboards and 2 bridge sections across the access walkway. 


  22. MattB

    Baseboards (Part 6)

    By MattB,


    Baseboards
    So I have worked out how many baseboards I am going to need altogether = 15. With an additional number of sections to complete the top deck. So far I have 9 baseboards constructed with the same number for the top deck.
     
    At some point I will have to get down to a DIY store and get some more 9mm ply (3x 1.2m x 1.4m or thereabouts) as I have almost run out and also need about 25m of 45mm x 20mm of softwood for the frames.
     
    So the next plan is to start working anticlockwise and construct baseboard 15 which will go on the other end of baseboard 1. 
     
    Many years ago when I built baseboard 1, I found I had to construct the end 6 inches on a separate board (so it would fit in the car for transport) and this will have to be detached and binned because due to the geometry of the room I have to build baseboard 15 in in its place (and also start curving the track around sooner. This is going to affect the station so might have to have a rethink at some point about how that is going to work but more than likely I will probably just redo the bridge and the pedestrian entrance and add a curve to the platform.
     
    Most of last month has been spent on installing the loft ladder and then building and painting an inner hatch so when I am in the loft I don't fall down the hole. I have a mate who did just that, he stepped back to admire his layout....and fell straight through the hatch that he forgot was there (luckily he didn't hurt himself too badly). I had to make a second box piece to block off the draft that comes through and this fits over the top end of the ladder. The ladder itself is telescopic so it doesn't take up any space and can fold underneath the layout when its not in use. The inner hatch box is constructed in a way that means it cannot be slid if one kicks it, I am pleased with both ladder and hatch box.
     
    I'm laying 2mm cork on the top deck - I am not intending to have ballast shoulders as its a steam era layout so just one sheet for the track area is needed. 
     
    Sorry about the mess on the layout photo (these boards are 950mm deep to the wall. Just about reachable to the back but wish there was a bit more headroom. Top deck at this point widens out a little to accommodate 4 parallel tracks and a station platform (for heritage railway)
     
     



  23. MattB

    Back to the LCB (part 3)

    By MattB,


    General
    I am about 2 baseboard modules away from the first turnout on the top deck of the layout. I want to use servo motors to power them and had purchased a CANMIO from MERG which I was yet to build up and figure out how it worked.
     
    I decided to therefore spend several afternoons in the Christmas / New Year Holiday setting myself the task of building it and programming it.
     
    Got it all built and tested no problem and then had an issue with the installed firmware so installed a different firmware (with some assistance from other MERG members) , found the right menus on the programming tool and hey presto got a servo working from the panel test unit. So that was very good news. I then started making an underboard servo mount which I need to test out on the test track board since this first point is quite a long way back from the front edge of the main baseboard. Once all thats working then its back to building baseboards. This one CANMIO will power all the servo motors on the top deck, as the top deck is DC (and not so prone to polarity change problems) frog switching is done by an in built microswitch but when I come to doing the DCC layout I might look at installing frog juicers.

  24. MattB

    Baseboards (again)

    By MattB,


    Baseboards
    So I had to have a think about the priorities.
     
    Priority No1 is get (at least 1) train running around the room. 
    Priority No 2 is get a 2nd train running around the room
     
    In order to do priority No 1, I need to knuckle down and build base boards. So for the moment all work on wiring, electronics and other railway modelling projects is paused and the main thrust of action is to get the lower deck baseboards and the top deck constructed. As its at the back the top deck (DC) will be fully constructed (with scenery, electronics and wiring) before I come back to the lower deck (DCC). The other advantage with this is I also have all the track I need in Code 100 and a mixture of insulfrog and electrofrog points.
     
    I now have an L shape on the top deck with two more baseboards (7 & 8) that need new top deck modules adding. Last night I installed the top deck on baseboard 6 in the corner. The more I build the more the room looks like a model railway room.
     
    I am currently flattening out my sheet of 2mm cork ready for cutting up and laying on the top deck.
     
    (Another priority this winter was to clear out all that plywood that is sitting downstairs in the garage taking up space.....)
     
    I was interested to read in the latest MERG journal about  signals being used to control the layout through use of relays and CBUS. This is something which I was already working on anyway but I need to now re-route some power on baseboard 1 to make it into a parallel circuit. The idea being that the signal is put at danger and in the same switch the power is also turned off. I had planned that but hadn't thought to combine it with a signal (not that I have any signals) but to wire this up should be relatively simple so will futureproof it with isolators and make ready for relays when I put those in.
     
    Had a scenery idea for backscene after looking through some other layouts. Get a sheet of 1mm / 2mm ply, shape it and paint it and then glue on building sheets, fencing bushes and foliage to make it 3D. Attach to loft wall with command strips.  Not to use the photo backscene and let the loft colour work for itself as a typical overcast England day.
     
    Basically I just want to get something running around the room while I work on the rest of the layout.
     
     

  25. MattB

    Ideas for Board 2

    By MattB,


    General
    So my last post I said I was going to put in the big factory. Unfortunately I tested it and it won't fit in so I scrapped that idea. 
     
    Baseboard building is temporally paused this month due to other house projects in progress. Hope to restart that in the next couple of weeks so I can push on with working on the lower deck trackplan.
     
    Lots of Code 75 track arrived from Rails. Tested this and its going to be great!
     
    The new plan for board 2 is to install a triangular module which I have on an older baseboard and put this at the back top corner. Its got the Ratio pump house on it, so all it needs is a bit of touching up, repair to the chimney (might need to make it shorter due to loft roof) that got damaged in transit during move and a bit of lighting. Plus a wall / bushes will need adding to disguise the front of the module which consists of 9mm plywood. I am making this removable so I can service it. Also on the top deck will be my Ratio ground level signal box again from an older baseboard, so the two buildings should compliment each other. I also plan to put in two signals for sections. Unfortunately I haven't got the room height to put in a distant signal on the outer line but might be able to fit one in on the inner line. The section signals will go on the curve where I have more height room
     
    Below the top deck the new plan is to install another module but in this case to make it a grassy embankment / side slope. Again I am making it a removable module in case I need to access the wiring behind (which powers the top deck. This will consist of 3mm ply for the base, upright formers and then my tried and tested method of chicken wire and probably plaster cast. Underneath / inside it I will be installing a CANVOUT Cbus module for powering all the lights and relays in this part of board. I might link one of the inputs on the CANVOUT to a detector so it would automatically put the signal to danger if there is something in the next section. However I am going to have place the signal about 20cms past the track isolator due to the height of the loft so I might get quite a few SPADs if I forget to stop the train!
     
    At the front of this module there is the disused railway bridges but I am going to change that into a farm track since the gradients don't tie up at the bridge end. On the other side of that I am going to put in a small set of oil tanks since this will be a stones throw from the diesel TMD. Its not quite where I would put them in an ideal world but I think such things should be close but not too close to the shed facility but sort of round the back. I need to do quite a lot of work to the tanks as when I got them they didn't have the walkway over the top but I have lots of spares so will cobble something together. This will have a siding extension from board 1 which goes under one of the bridges
     
    I made a relay work off the CANACC8 on the main board, which I quite pleased about as the plan is to use several of these for controlling the sections on the analog circuit. Now that will cut down on the wiring!
     
    Waiting for some more colours of wire to turn up in the post.
     
    Sorry similar photo to last time - the only visible addition is the outer track using a 30 inch tracksetta. I have now extended it to the edge of this board and then stopped. Soldering power dropdowns to the track connectors (fishplates) was a good idea. Imagine a peak belting around this top deck...

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