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Hi Steve, this the plan as drawn in Anyrail, I printed it off full size but had to tweak it to fit the space available, even then it didn't quite work for me as I wanted to have a sector plate rather than a fiddle yard but it wasn't to be. Cheer's, Pete.

A few more photos to be going on with. The loading/cattle dock with its timber facing and top covered with textured brick paper. I didn't think the brick surfacing on the loading dock section looked right so I covered it with an ash ballast. Thats it for now, cheer's, Pete.

I wasn't sure what the limits were, thats why I said if it was not applicable, for the admins to say and move it. I do have a diorama/plank thats approx 4ftx1ft but in O gauge its not that interesting. Pete.

This my layout of a fictitious Great Eastern built branch terminus. I've named it by mashing up the ElsenHAM and THAXted railway. It is 11ft x 2ft 6inches so I hope it qualifies as a "micro layout", if not could an admin move it to a different forum. It is loosely based in the late 30's/very early 40's. I began building in around 2018, and as I have only just today covered the platform with a sandy/soil dust to replicate (I hope) the ash ballast type covering the GER used for their platform surfaces. Any way here are a few photos of my glacial progress, I will add to them as a I go, there are 107 up to now, I doubt anyone could sit through that many at a go. So the first few of many. I built the base boards with the 4mm sides with soft wood blocks glued and nailed between. Sorting the trackwork out. Wiring for dcc, remarkably tidy for me! Trackwork around station laid and pla.. testing. I have used servos for point motors using the MegaPoint system and micro switches for polarity changing. All the main track work laid, tested. The cattle/loading dock built, still to be finished, just checking it fits ok. Thats all for this post, I will put more photos up later. Thanks for looking, cheer's, Pete.

One of the things that puts me off using a kit for a base board (aside from the price) is that you need to design your layout to fit the kit, now I know the manufacturers will build what you wish, within limits I guess, but bespoke things come with bespoke prices and what if you change your design at a later stage? Personally I would suggest that you design your baseboard/s break it down into component parts and take the resultant drawing/s to a local timber yard and get them to cut the ply/mdf etc to size to provide you with the parts, all perfectly square and to the shape you want ready to assemble. Cheer's, Pete.

Lovely layout, if I owned it I think I would scenicify the sector plate as well but it looks fantastic as is . Cheer's, Pete.

The Sava BMC FG lorry works out at about £30 with carriage. Steve Beatty doe's a 1.43rd resin kit for £27 + p&p for the FG it needs some fettling, I have one in my kit stash to build, mainly for nostalgic reasons, I used to own a full size one until a few years ago. Pete.

I have one of these old Dinky Transits in my to do box but without a windscreen, can you tell me where you got your replacement from? Thanks, Pete.

This is my method, you have to be pretty accurate with the measurements, but its cheap and it works. Hope this helps. Pete.

Duly noted, thank you John, much appreciated.

I have some Halfords grey primer but compared to Dapols 16t wagons it's a good deal darker. To tide me over I have ordered some Railmatch aerosol in British railways early grey. I will make up a swatch with it and see if I can find a near match at my local Halfords. Cheer's, Pete.

Can anyone suggest an aerosol spray paint for BR freight grey please? I'm particularly thinking of an auto spray from the likes of Halfords etc. Thanks, Pete.

I am toying with building a layout in 7mm for the Gauge O Guilds 20 square feet layout comp. Having some mobility prob's I need to make it as light and easy to handle as possible. I've seen Gordon and Maggie Gravetts Arun Quay layout a few times and seen the way they have made the framing for the base boards. I have become a fan of ply wrapped foam and have done a test with some 4mm ply and 1/2" foam and was surprised at how rigid and light it is. Obviously some thought needs to be taken in joining the framing and boards together but for me, it is the way forward. I reckon 4" deep is adequate and drilling some holes to lighten it even further won't cause any problems. Cheer's, Pete.

Alex Jackson couplings work well, ask Gorden Gravett. I have used them and they work best if built with a jig and a height setter though they work best with electro magnets. Cheer's, Pete.

I did this on a bridge I built using Slaters brick sheets some time ago. If I remember right I used Pritt Stick, the high strength one, after roughing up the plastic with some wet and dry 600 grit used dry. Giving the surface a rub over gives the paper something to grab on to. It is still stuck after a few years. Pete.

This is my first go at scratch building and painting a 7mm coach. It is based on a very old drawing of a GCR suburban. I have found a drawing for a brake for my next attempt. Still aways to go to finish it but a very enjoyable exersize. Cheer's, Pete.

Similar to this. Cheer's, Pete.

I am building a layout based on a Great Eastern branch line. I would like to have a couple of GE or similar benches for the station. Doe's any one know of a supplier of same in 7mm scale? Cheer's, Pete.

Many people have home 3D printers these days, would it be suitable to make a wagon load and use it as a master to produce a mould for resin casting perhaps? Pete.

I have 3 marcway points on my O gauge layout, one of which is a 3 way so 4 point motors. I have gone with servos controlled by a Megapoints set up. Apart from some buzzing from one of the servos, my fault for not setting it up right, I have had no problems. I use micro switches for polarity switching, though I may swop these for an auto switching system from Gaugemaster as they also take some setting up correctly. Cheer's, Pete.

I bought this Lima 040 shunter in O gauge already Anglicised by its former owner. I did a little more work on it by carving off the original exhaust and fitting a stove pipe exhaust at the front and replacing the cast on hand rails with brass wire ones. I've painted it early BR black and given it a fictitious number. I have since re-motored it and added a dcc chip. Cheer's, Pete.

Textured masonry paint is good. Or matt emulsion with a bit of sand mixed in. As is often quoted in all modelling genres, study the prototype or photos. Cheer's, Pete.

The first photo is of my derelict house the second its in place. Also in the foreground of the second photo is the fencing I built with coffee stirrers and old rocket sticks for posts, before painting a mucky weathered wood grey. Third is the fencing in place plus taller fencing the opposite side of the track and fourth the fencing with bushes and weeds etc detailing it. I will try and take some more photos of it as I have done a little more work on it since these were taken. Cheer's, Pete.

After the track laying and river sorting I slapped a load of plaster/filler to create the ground form at the front. The end where the buildings would be planted I left the foam uncovered. The third photo is the pub rear almost ready for planting. Finally I started on the static grass using my home built applicator. Pete.

It is an O scale Lima rtr shunter. Suitably Anglicied and weathered. I have also replaced the motor and added a LaisDcc chip, so it now runs a treat.