grob1234

Hello Tony, It has been a little while since I shared my progress on here. Thought you might like to see how my DJH C1 is getting on? Well, it is now in full primer, and almost ready for paint. I just need to add the boiler bands, and then waft another thin layer of primer over the top. And a rather gratuitous shot of my C1 and J3 posing together.

What is going on? 2 updates in the space of 3 days. Ridiculous!! The DJH C1 is now fully primed and almost ready for some paint. Just boiler bands to add after I have filled and sanded any flaws in the initial primer coat. Luckily my hard work paid off in the preparation stage and she is looking pretty smooth (ooo er!) I couldn't resist posing J3 3329 next to its main line cousin, what will be 3283 while I had all the lighting set up: And of course in the back ground work on the Silver Jubilee continues. All interiors now virtually complete, with the exception of the ends of the seats which need a thin plasticard cover. Thanks for looking in, more work on the A1 coming up in the next week or so, and we might even get the SJ into primer too!!

Scott, I think making your own trees is the only way to go. In my experience, “RTR” trees are generally too small, and too generic to use on a layout, if you are really trying to capture the true flavour of a location. I’m sure it has already been suggested, but Gordon Gravett has a couple of excellent books featuring some of the techniques you are using to create trees and scenery in general.

Hello Jonathan, The tender pick ups do work well even though I say so myself, and of course completely hidden by the side frames. I chose the front pair as they had better angles for the pick up wires than the rear pair, but I'm sure either would be fine. I have vowed never to use dead frog points after using them on my little N Gauge layout in the fiddle yard. The ones on the scenic section are all live frog and work well, but I have had to replace the fiddle yard points with live frog due to poor running (especially in N where the frogs are comparatively bigger). So for me it is lesson learnt! Like you I can't see any difference which side has the hook or loop so I will go ahead and fit it as I planned. Luckily I actually thought about this during construction and pre drilled holes. Quite a rare event for me!

Hi Scott, Personally, I make my own fencing. Sounds really daft but I hate the way the Peco/Ratio versions behave. They take paint and glue really badly, and the mouldings are old and not very crisp. I made my fencing in 'N' gauge, choosing appropriate evergreen strip. It is possible to build quite a lot quite quickly and it isn't as laborious as you might think. http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=22062.90 Have a look at page 7, there are a few pics of 'wot I dun'.

Hello everyone, thank you very much for the responses to this thread, even though I myself have not posted for some time. I feel I am on the cusp of a break through with several of my models, and although time is very sparse, the Hong Kong branch of the LNER workshop is actually open for business! The C1 has its tender primed and the model itself is about 98% complete. Today I opened up the hole in the underside of the boiler a little more, and the chassis and motor assembly is a very nice, easy fit. All I have to do is solder on the whistle, add the drawbar to the loco, and a little gentle filing and smoothing before priming the loco body itself. By the way, does anyone know if the following is acceptable? On my J3 I had a hook on the loco body, and a bar on the tender to couple the two together. Is there any sound reason why this cannot be reversed? Due to the configuration of the C1, it will be easier to have the bar on the loco and the hook on the tender. I tested the electrical connection between tender and loco today as well. Having just 4 wheels for pick up on the loco means that it is sensitive to dodgy track, so I felt it essential to add pick ups to the tender as well. In my humble opinion, although good, the DJH C1 tender chassis is a little over engineered, which meant it was difficult to attach traditional side on wiper pick ups. So I fitted top wiper pick ups from 0.33mm NS wire. I tried 0.45mm but it was too stiff. This doubles the number of contact points with the track, and it works very well indeed. Slow speed control of the loco is now excellent. The electricity is transferred by little connectors that Jonathan showed on his thread. They are from Peters Spares, and very simple to use. Another project nearing a break through in progress is my Silver Jubilee rake. Most of the interiors are complete now. Just step boards and a couple of other details to add, and I will soon be able to get the coaches buttoned up and ready for the paint process. As an aside, I used the plastic extrusions for the seats from the 30+ year old Coronation set. So it is nice on a personal level to be able to link the two rakes together.

Almost a shame to paint it, Tim. What a brilliant piece of work, astonishing. Thank you for sharing.

A little bird told me the DJH A3 is no longer in production. Last time I checked their website it wasn’t listed. This would be a real shame as the kits I have are really lovely. One being unbuilt and one at the rolling chassis stage. Tony, I hope Mo is feeling a little better now? Emergency trips to A&E (I suppose they are emergency by default) are never welcome. I’m also glad that this thread has returned to its usual good form - that of encouraging people to model. I’m eager to get back to the work bench having picked up two more kits on a short visit to Blighty. Another A1/3 and a C1. Upon checking the kits (both of which from EBay... but did I “win” them or merely buy them?!) I noticed the C1 has a missing cab. Initially I thought of buying a replacement from DJH. However such is my preference for building stuff, I simply bought some brass sheet, and I’ll fashion and cut a new cab from the sheet. I hope this approach is in the spirit of this great thread.

Might not be "right" but looks jolly nice!

Ronseal doesn't suffer from the same problem?

Yes I suppose so, still, I take pride in being a bit grumpy myself sometimes - doesn't help my modelling much but I enjoy it none the less. I did manage to carve out a few spare hours today to cut and fit the seats and tables for my Silver Jubilee rake. Once done I'll be able to prime the insides, fit the roofs and begin the painting process. I'd also like to make a public acknowledgement of the superb service I received from London Road Models and John Redrup. When I checked my D2 kits that I recently ordered from them, I found that the buffers (usually supplied) were missing. No big deal, I knew I would be able to email and get them sent to me. However due to being busy I hadn't had time to contact John, yet today in the post arriving unannounced were two sets of buffers and handrail knobs sent free of charge all the way to Hong Kong. Now, I suspect Jol might have had a hand in this, but to me, this type of personal service highlights just how good some of our smaller suppliers can be. A brilliant advert for the hobby, and all kudos to John for being a great exponent of customer service. Needless to say, LRM now have a customer for life.

14 hours to build a loco, Tony... I struggle to build one in 14 weeks!!

Thirded... Items reach their way to Hong Kong too. Great example of how a company like this should be run IMHO - innovative products and great service.

If my C1 looks anywhere near as nice as your newest C1, I will be delighted!

You could say it was frost?!

Thanks Jol. I do have Ian's fantastic book, but I am too lazy to look inside right now! I recall the use of the matting agent now I think of it.

I need to try Ronseal. I thought he used matt and gloss (mixed as required) so he can vary the finish depending on what he wants. I wonder what thins Ronseal?

My model will be exceptionally prototypical then!!!

Lovely Mozzie, Al. Tamiya Acrylics are renown for being awful to use with a brush. However add air to the brush and hey presto - results like you demonstrate.

Hello Graeme, Tony, I'm just catching up on this thread and others. I have been committing aviation at a furious rate in recent weeks - three return trips from HK to Paris, a return trip to Rome and a day return to Singapore, which doesn't sound like much but I can assure you is pretty tiring! On the subject of Humbrol white enamel being pretty rubbish - yes I can confirm the fact it is waaaay to thick straight from the tin for lining. Black is better, but still needs thinning. I'm a bit of a tart when it comes to things like this but I use Tamiya thinner which is formulated specifically for enamel paints as oppose to white spirit. I don't know if there is a real difference (other than cost) between the two, but it's what I use and so far with the minimal amount of lining I have done it has been OK. Having said that I am literally adding 1 drop of thinner at a time into the paint. Random thought - I have always used Tamiya acrylics (though they clean with cellulose thinner and thin with Tamiya thinner), and continue to do so. I get on with them really well, and they spray beautifully. This is a hangover from my aircraft modelling days. The pigment is always very fine, demonstrated by how well they flow though a 0.2mm airbrush needle with no clogging at all. The big thought of mine is to try Tamiya ENAMEL paint for lining. I have a pot of gloss white, and I just looked - the consistency is more like the creamy consistency Mr Rathbone recommends. I will give it a try and see how I get on I will of course report back with my findings. On a completely unrelated subject - would 55mph be a reasonable top speed for a D2? I'm just working out what gearbox to buy for my kits. TIA. EDIT: Steve, I really like the look of those fine scale N Gauge points. I looked at that range and was really impressed.

I had heard rumors of items such as flares and groups called the Osmons... I suppose as I have heard the rumour more than once, it must be true!

I'm using a brand new tin of Humbrol gloss white. Contrary to Rathbones advice I have had to thin it, otherwise you could stand a spoon up in it, it's so thick!! The black is better but still needs some thinning. Both are probably still a touch too thick, but rather that than too thin, and they are flowing nicely from the pen if I am able to work quick enough so that the paint doesn't dry at the tip. I was looking for images of C1's to see about the red lining and I came across your model on the Bachmann atlantic thread. It is really lovely - what paint do you use for the red lining? Also how did you like around the plugs etc, looks very very neat!! Sadly not Dave, I missed out on the 70's by 2 years....

You're going to have a full order book it seems Dave.

The key in my immeasurably tiny experience in lining wheels is actually the preparation. Markits wheels I presume? I got on OK with the wheels I had, but if I did them again, and in the future, I would definitely fill the seam line where the insulating mazac (sp?) is, and then I would sand smooth, prime with etch primer, check, possibly sand smooth once more down to about 800 or even 1200 grit so the primer is almost shiny, then I reckon a thin coat of green (whatever shade), and then, personally I would go over it in a gloss acrylic coat. Long sentence?! However, once enamel paint is hardened (I'm talking Pheonix Precision here) can you remove small mistakes with enamel thinner without cutting into the paint below? Oh and I am glad I cheered you - I wish my wife could be cheered up so easily! (I'm kidding of course - sorry ladies!)

Best to choose locos that don't have tricky hand rail arrangements like the C1 I'm making... I always need at least 3 go's to get curved ones right! I'll deal on that, I'll go for one of each!!