grob1234

I'll give it a try when I eventually do some modelling!

What Haff is that Steve? I think adding that black into the white is definitely toning it down quite a bit, yet it still looks white. Is this just for N or also OO?

Yes! That's exactly what I remember. Just wanted to get the lamp brackets in the right place and the top rail detail correct as this will be very visible on the model. Many thanks. PS I very much like archer rivets. Though I do not like to count them, if they are prominent and I file them off by mistake it is good to replace them.

Hello Gentlemen, Apologies for butting in, but I have a request for information.... I recall seeing a picture that clearly depicts the rear of the Silver Jubilee formation as it was in pre-war condition. The picture is taken with the train heading away, but it shows very nicely the detail on the end of the carriage. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I can't for the life of me remember where I have seen it, despite checking all my books.

All Klear, clear Ian I have read your book several times, and I'm digesting the information within. Being a relatively seasoned modeler, I'm always looking to discover the best way to do something, and my reticence to simply line over gloss enamel stems simply from not wanting to mess up a nice paint job when I inevitably mess up the lining! It does however make total sense that enamel will be most happily applied over a nice gloss goat of enamel, and I will bite the bullet and try it (after testing first of course) The main area of concern is the tender and the cab, the rest will be offset lining, which bizarrely I am more comfortable with that using the standard pen. Can you tell from my pictures if you think the pen is OK? I am sure it is, I just need to have the confidence in the tool. Many thanks for your reply,

I got well and truly told off on YouTube by someone who told me I was soldering with the incorrect technique. I too pick up solder on the iron and bring it to my work, using my spare hand to hold whatever I'm soldering, and using my mouth for swearing as I can't take the pain... Anyway, I asked the commentator what locomotives they had built and if they were successful using the apparently text book method of heating the piece and adding solder. It turns out he's never made a locomotive kit in his life! I explained it would be impossible to use his method for my needs, but that if a technique works then why not employ it? I also asked him to send me some pictures of things he has soldered so I could see for myself his work. I'm still waiting though I have never idea why... Basically what I'm saying is have a play about find out what works and stick with it. To me it is the end result that matters not the way in which you choose to solder. PS I also occasionally run a fine sanding stick over the end of the bit when I get a build up of hard black stuff on there. I'm sure it's wrong but the bit still works fine. They're consumables anyway aren't they?

Hello, I have been conducting a few experiments with my Haff 228 ruling pen. What I am trying to establish is: consistency of line width (comes with practise) that the pen actually works correctly paint thickness/consistency and brand of paint the best surface to line on a good way of totally removing an unwanted line from the model without destroying the paint underneath So, bearing this in mind, I set out some tests. First of all, I used PP Doncaster green, which once cured, I coated in Klear, knowing that Klear is impervious to white spirit, and therefore would mean that when I make a mistake I needn't be fearful in removing the mistake with white spirit. Not a fantastic result really. What I found is that although the Klear does produce a very nice gloss finish, it is actually quite brittle. I have taken the sharpness off the tip of the pen with a 3200 wet sanding pad, but even still, the pen cut the Klear a little and I think this clogged the 'nib' and that is why I got the blobby results. All the paint used is Humbrol, which I have tried to get to a relatively standard thick, creamy consistency. Deciding that Klear is perhaps not the best lining surface, my next plan of attack was to try a Tamiya gloss acrylic, which like Klear is pretty much impervious to white spirit. The problem with this is that despite using Tamiya paints for many years, there is no direct comparison for Doncaster Green in their range. Enlargement for comparison: On the left hand side is lining using 2 different tins of Humbrol gloss white. The lines are not consistent, and it seemed that the paint flow broke up very easily. On the right however is a different paint - Tamiya Gloss Enamel. This paint has a very fine appearance and a very nice consistency - probably thinner than the Humbrol. Towards the bottom, I feel I was starting to achieve the consistency I desire, along with nice fine lines. The pen was set to about 1.5 on the dial, and allows a piece of paper to pass between the tips of the pen. Conclusions Although Klear is a nice gloss finish, it seems hard to line on. The Tamiya acrylic gloss surface was nice to line on, especially with the Tamiya gloss enamel. Can I conclude that the pen itself is working ok? (could any experts cast their eyes over my lines please?) If the pen is OK, could the Humbrol paint be a little bit too thick? (the newer stuff seems thicker than the old stuff) My next experiment will be just a straight gloss enamel base coat and then lining on top I will also try Tamiya gloss black and red to see if they are better than Humbrol.

As an addendum to my last post, I have found that 'Klear' is also impervious to white spirit.

Thank you Darren. I have been experimenting with varnishes and so on for lining. I have found that my normal Alclad varnish is somewhat impervious to white spirit, but not to the extent that if I mess up a whole side (highly likely) that I could then remove it and not spoil the varnish. My lining seems a bit hit and miss at the moment. I am finding it difficult to get the paint consistency right. The black I have seems OK, and also the red, but the white seems harder to line with. I have given the pen a very very light polish with 4000 grid polishing pads, but I am reluctant to go too far as I don't want to completely ruin the pen. I suppose practise makes perfect, I'm just impatient! Looks like I will have to invest in some Ronseal polyurethane varnish, it looks like it is very nice to work with.

Great, its nice to know that people can find me rather than just simply clicking on links when I advertise on Facebook!

Hello, Sorry that the pictures have 'fallen off', due to PhotoBucket and their stupid decision. I keep meaning to re upload them but time is tight at the moment. To be honest, I started this blog on here long before I was on YouTube. I still like to post on here, but in terms of my social media presence, I tend to use Instagram as a feeder for YouTube which is the main effort if you like. Initially, when I was new to YouTube I called myself Toms Trains, but made the decision to have Instagram and YouTube bearing a new name of the Loco Builder, which I felt differentiated me from other channels, and also described what I do in a better way. That's why the earlier videos are still under Toms Trains, but over time as the number of Loco Builder videos increases the Toms Trains name will 'wash out' somewhat. Can I ask how you found me on YouTube?

Couple of questions - Is the Ronseal impervious to white spirit? Also, if you colour of choice is in matt, what varnish is recommended to apply before lining?

I'm disgusted....! I thought my fees were eminently reasonable....

I'll take one please. Perhaps I can also pick it up from Sir when I next visit.

So what are those little floaters one gets in ones (or both!) eyes then? Can they be removed?

I can imagine you actually falling off your chair here Tony, just the thought of superglue being enough to send you into raptures

Wow, stunning point work there!

Yes I think this is the method DJH suggest in their instructions too, should you need a picture.

Is there much snow? Nicely trimmed windows though. I do like a nicely trimmed window...

Hello folks. Latest progress on the DJH A1 in a video style format! https://youtu.be/BsU53uWwNWE

I found exactly the same. Not the easiest of hobbies to get into. Which is why I try and promote it as much as possible. It will always be niche, but I hope that the more information there is out there, and the more accessible it is, then hopefully the appeal of this aspect of the hobby will grow.

Good Morning, Just a couple of pictures of my latest project - this is the build I'm featuring on my YouTube channel (link below) if anyone is interested. DJH LNER A1 Pacific chassis now up and running. Next will be the body work and tender. Temporary coarse flange Markits fitted for testing purposes. EDIT - I realise the last picture has too much contrast and saturation - edited deliberately this way for social media, but not ideal for this particular thread - sorry about that!

Richly deserved. Congratulations Tony. How about Tony Wright Apostrophies’ Kit’s available in small, medium and large? They’d be popular wouldn’t they?

Yes, brakes yet to be fitted... I tend to solder them on last once I have finished messing about with the chassis and got all the pick ups working to my satisfaction. Thanks for the tips regarding the rear side frames etc. I'll have a look in my Yeadons Register book and I'll probably just use plasticard as it won't be structural and should improve the appearance of the loco.

Normally I remove the boiler bands that are moulded on, as is the case with the C1. Previously I have used electric tape for the bands, which has worked well, looks crisp, but is probably over scale. If you look at this randomly chosen view of a C1: https://www.lner.info/locos/C/c1.php you can see on the top of the loco that the bands make no visible impression on the horizon. So I'm leaning towards the transfers that I'll make up with the bow pen being the bands. I'll have a look in Mr Rathbone's book and see what he does.