vitalspark

As a young enthusiast I remember it well as it was the only shed where we were forcibly ejected. It was known as pretty near impossible to get round without a permit but of course we didn't bother with such things. Went round it in the summer of '65..took a chance and straight in off the end of the platform and got round pretty well the whole place before being 'collared'. Apart from the Westerns Hymeks and 14s D0280 Falcon was inside so it was all worthwhile. Have a few B&W pics taken off the platform and notes for the day. Dave.

Easy if you model modern locos with a 'tunnel' all you need is the handles sticking out..an inch of wire should do! (PVA still weeping out at the firing plate) Dave.

I know what you mean but the image is pretty exaggerated being zoomed in and it really doesn't look so bad from a normal viewing distance. The internal cab detail is superb and the open roof showcases this well so I favour the open positioning. I may well fit with finer brass replacements in the near future as they shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate however as said it doesn't look as bad when viewed from a different angle. Like you I am not a fan of thick mouldings and still intend to replace the deflectors good as they are plus I would love to do something with the tender side sheets but reluctant to start something that I might make an a**e of.. ending up with a new brass tender! As a friend who has a very well known 70ft long EM scale representation of a certain location on the ECML said to me....'​Dave if some bu***r can spot incorrect brake rodding or the like on a tender of an A4 passing here at 60 mph then thats their problem' ..so Ill take his advice and roster Sir W to the non stops! Dave.

Everyone to their own but surely the idea is to hopefully recreate a little of the past or of what you remember? If that's the case some soot on the cab roof and coal in the tender would be the least that would be required.

A nice model and well done however with an empty tender and heavily weathered could it be it just about to lose its plates and be towed to Barry! Not a criticism btw..I like it. D.

The original mainline Jubilees included long firebox. The mainline body is decent and after some detailing with better handrails etc it it looks good enough. We have Mainline bodied long firebox plus Fowler tender examples detailed and weathered and they stand comparison with the later offerings. Agree though that a retooling to provide the later examples is long overdue. On Galatea I remember when it was thought it might be beyond restoration..looking good now and a great pic with not a high viz waistcoat in sight to spoil things. D

A good example would be a loop with a connection to a main line but which also continues to a headshunt. A loco in the loop can draw forward past the yellow disc at danger to utilise the headhunt but if leaving the loop for the main it would require the yellow disc to be off. If the disc was red then shunting past it would be passing a signal at danger. Dave.

If anyone is looking for high quality scale ground discs Palatine do a finescale etch for the LMS type at £5 / signal which I can recommend. They can be stacked or used single and also made to work with a little care. We need loads of these for the new layout including an interesting side by side triple on a lattice post plus a quad stack in addition to the doubles and triples. First attempt at one to see how it went together and pleasantly surprised. The etch folds up cleanly to form the body easily and some 0.45 wire tacked on to the back of the discs then brass tube to act as bearings soldered on to body and thats 90% of it built. We need these operational so a little beefing up of the crank area is needed but they surprised me as I am not a signal builder. Its not a kit so no instructions but its self explanatory. With little modification it is operational and quite substantial without looking overscale. Apologies for the paint finish..but this was only really an exercise to find out if they are practical..which they are. Following examples will be better!

Answered in detail by 34C and agree. We have 4ft min curves so tighter the better and being a DMU auto uncoiling is irrelevant. D.

Kadees are excellent for close coupling passenger stock and so easy to fit but I don't favour them on locos unless of course they are US outline..or on the back of an A4 tender! We only use them on fixed rakes so height is not an issue. The Hornby Thompson/Gresley suburbans are transformed in minutes with their addition but remember for these coaches as is often the case a mix is best for optimum appearance. A short 17 and a long 18 ..one on either end of the coach..is ideal for these coaches as 2 x 17s wont couple and 2 x 18s space them too far apart. The Cravens 105 DMU with kadees is transformed in minutes with the corridor connections almost touching. It always amazes me when I view an otherwise decent exhibition layout with few sharp curves running corridor stock and dmus with huge gaps between coaches that are still tension lock coupled. Dave.

Good man its the best way as it allows you to add extra detail and unless you are planning to double head then yes I would detail the other end with no coupling. The thing is you are only removing the existing coupling from the NEM pocket and its a few seconds to pop it back in again if for whatever rason you wanted to revert to a full tension lock. Also any fixing holes for the wire loop are up under the buffer beam into the loco chassis or floor so theres no trace of anything..nothing to lose by having a go. Use a drill with a tight interference fit and drill up behind the buffer beam vertically. I know guys that use 0.45 n/s wire but I prefer something slightly heavier to allow for propelling on the bar. You are going to ask me what size ..but I cant remember its perhaps 0.7 but tbh as long as it allows the hook to engage and its rigid enough which even 0.45 will be after forming a small loop and securing the ends. Form the loop along the same dimensions as the smaller neater tension locks and stand it off the loco usually just a smidgeon behind the buffer heads is right as it looks ok and allows plenty of space for coupling up.. if the stock is propelled or buffers up the loop should act on the coach tension lock bar with the nose of the hook one the coach still being clear of the loco body. Its easy enough to offer up a coach and get the correct distance. if the holes are drilled interference fit the wires of the two legs will slide up and remain there while you adjust it down for height etc. Its then a case of some superglue on the two ends and slide up again. The forces on the bar are spread up vertically so the glue really is only to retain the wire. Glad you're having a go as said its easy to reverse without anything showing and I doubt you'll regret regret it. Dave.

I'm obviously missing something here..a coupling on a loco does not need to close up like that between coaches so pull it off and drop it in the bin..then replace with a wire loop of the kind that almost all decent modellers will fit if running tension lock stock. Unless you are finescale and using Jacksons or the like then a wire loop is the answer. If you are running KDs then obviously its not for you but then you are likely not having issues. The remainder will likely be running stock regardless of period with some sort of tension lock with every coach/wagon having a hook..so why do you feel the need to also have one on the loco? Who wants to see a tension lock hook sticking out from the front of an otherwise decent loco? A loop at the correct height as the tension lock bar and secured by turning the ends at right angles up into the loco frame into drilled holes and secured with superglue or araldite is the answer. Its unobtrusive and allows the tension lock hook on the leading vehicle to slide and follow the loco perfectly. No self respecting modeller leaves a tension lock on a loco and apart from that the wire loop is cheap..easy to fit.. good to look at as it can blend with the buffer bean detailing especially on a diesel and its also totally reliable. Ten years on the exhibition circuit with Alloa and not a single coupling failure or trains splitting back this up. A few images attached. One of the first tasks with the new Hornby 'Stanier' was to lose the tender coupling. Heljan Co-Bo Underside..chemically blackening the wire would be better however its easy to touch up when it gets 'chippy' Coupling bars galore on Alloa Its not just our locos that get the wire loop treatment Tony Wrights beautiful kit built A2 Tudor Minstrel on Alloa. Hope this is taken in the spirit its intended as not meaning to be critical but often simplest is best. Dave.

There was no date given but the adjacent logs of Princesses Jubilees and brits were all '58 - '59 so its likely it would be around then. I went back several pages for a clue to the date but could find nothing regarding this log. Its likely that the date was not linked to it at the time for obvious reasons as it was well over the line speed limit and although the book was published some 15 years later there was possibly still a feeling of keeping it anonymous. Adjacent logs of Princesses in the late 50s were equally impressive with 46208 & 46209 covering the 82 miles Rugby to Euston start to stop in 70 & 68 mins respectively both hauling 490 tons and with speed in the 90s..96 in the case of 46209. Impressive machines indeed. Dave.

All this talk off 46251 reminds me it was the subject of likely the fastest recorded run of a Duchess in Scotland. 105mph through Beattock station on the up Mid Day Scot running 8 late through Carstairs. Published by O S Nock in his book '60 years of West Coast Running' so its authenticated. Must have been something to have been standing on the platform waiting for the local to Moffat when that lot came through! Dave.

Lets have a pic of the finished article as I am looking at brass deflectors too. Have you given any consideration to the inning the tender side sheds at the back? They are masked somewhat by being black but would benefit from being bit finer I think although it might be trickier than it looks. I'm not about to replace with brass and still delighted with this superb model just picking over any small things that might still be possible. D

Yep I agree and the jury is still out for me on the deflectors. Its highly likely I will change one for brass and A-B it with the likely outcome being brass. I'll post a pic for comparison if someone doesn't do it first...anyone? D.

Excellent and good to see Sir William back on its old stamping ground. Travelling at the front too which I definitely approve of..an expensive day out though! Dave.

He's incognito..nae check shirt! D

Ah you noticed..these guys gave it a quick tidy up!

Found the 16 tonner..

Interloper. '56 hiding at undisclosed location as it shouldn't actually be there. Dave.

Looking at the pics I've just posted fine model as it is it still doesn't stand being looked at too closely does it! Some thinning of the tender sidesheets and deflectors wouldn't go amiss. D

Stop staring Dave 4 and bring it down. Trust it will have been treated to the superb MMC weathering and if you are very lucky that nice mr Franks might have a spare couple of loco lamps! I have one just like it weathered and coaled with my very last piece of Kingmoor black..so if you have a spare lump I would be very grateful! Dave

Superb!