k22009

There's also another list at

https://www.brmna.org/xrefs.shtml

Thanks Ian, 

Next time i'm on the phone to Colin i'll ask him, in the meantime i'll try to make something that looks the part.

Does anyone know of a supplier for LMS/GWR style mud hole door covers? These are usually positioned at the corners of Belpaire fireboxes.

Colin at Gibson's sells what i believe are the LNER type (4M814), but i've not seen anyone selling the LMS/GWR version in 4mm. Malcolm Mitchell used to include some nice copper ones with his kits, and i'm pretty sure i've seen white metal versions on Finecast kits. If i can't find any i'll try knocking some up from thin copper sheet, i'll make a recess in some hard wood and try pressing some out from thin copper sheet.

Dave

Egg + Bacon

Banger + Mash

Bread + Butter

Fish + Chip

Bubble + Squeek

Salt + Pepper

Mild + Bitter

Hi,

I'd be interested if the offer is still there.

Dave

An old General Merchant warehouse which was across the road from the terminus at Blairgowrie. What looks like an old gas lamp still secured to the gable. The guttering is shot now and it's only a matter of time before the water leaking down the walls rots the mortar.

And the view of the rear which sits above the river Ericht. 

Magnificent

5 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

You should be able to hold it with the weighshaft arm, exactly as full size.

Thanks Mike, yes of course.

I've asembled the cylinders, slide bar bracket which is now attached to the slide bars and the radius link bracket onto the frames. They are all tied together with the extended ejector pipe that i've continued into the cylinders so i probably don't need to provide any other ties to keep these as a lift out assembly.

I've made a start on the valve gear, i must admit i'm apprehensive as there are lots of very small parts and very few spares (non in most cases).

The radius link bracket was first up, some of the locating slots needed opening up with a scalpel blade to enable a good fit. The reversing crank laminations on the right won't be needed for a little while but they've been removed from the etch anyway.

Assembled together and with a 1mm dia rod running through each side.

In the instructions it just says solder a short length of rod into each hole so that the radius link will pivot on them. Soldering 2 tiny pieces of rod here would be tricky, so, i decided to just solder in a length between the 2 locations and using a disc cut a gap in them which can then be filed down once the radius link is made and i can be sure the protruding rods are long enough.

And with the pivots cut 

The next assembly is the 2 radius links, these are made up from 4 laminations, some 0.3mm wire to locate them and then act as bolts and the radius rod itself made up from 3 parts.

To start the 2 inner laminations must be sweated together, i used the 0.3mm rods drilled holes through into a wooden block and placed the 2 laminations over them before sweating together. Sorry not a clear photo.

Once this is done the radius rod must be attached. This is completed by placing the rod under the 2 laminations on the block and fitting the outer radius rod lamination over the top of the link laminations and again sweated to the other side of the radius rod. Great care must be taken to not solder the rod to the link as they must move freely once assembled. With this done you know have to pin the radius rod to the 2 link laminations with some 0.7 dia rod, once again only allowing solder to penetrate the radius rod itself. Once this is done the radius rod should then be free to run along the slot in the link laminations. The outer radius link laminations can the be added to encapsulate the radius rod, the 0.3 rods can be cut off and filed down.

With the radius rod free to move into any gear position, i'm not quite sure yet how you are supposed to retain them in one position, so more thought is required there.

Making all the fork joints for the rest of the valve gear next.

No new updates just yet, mince pie munching has stopped work temporarily.

Everyone have a good Christmas.

Cheers

Dave

https://scalescenes.com/product/r029-oo9-structure-set/

Looks like a new set of very useful items, just in time for the Xmas break to have a dabble with.

I have just received a few etches (Claughton's, Kirtley 700, Flatiron, 1134 saddle, MSWJR, 4P chassis, 3F chassis) if anyone is interested please message me.

Merry Christmas to all.

Dave

I've added the handrail pillars and want to add some boiler bands at this stage. I do sometimes just use magic tape but i have some thin copper sheet from Eileens that i have cut a few 1mm wide strips off.

Once cut they curl and wriggle all over the place so  they need straightening.

With 2 pairs of pliers just grab each end

And give the strip about half a dozen pulls so that it twangs, and now should be pretty straight. I do this with coiled wire too.

The bands are positioned by the band clips on the underside of the boiler.

They're thin enough to not look to pronounced, i realise scale bands would be wafer thin and each to there own everyone has different views.

I might cut the footplate assembly out of its cradle/jig next so that i can carry on with the chassis and valvegear.

Now that the main assemblies are assembled it's time to add some of the smaller detail items. First up the mechanical lubricators which are made up from 3 or 4 parts, the unit, base, mechanical lever, and handwheel. These are all tiny items but have gone together ok, i've even managed to make the levers moveable (not that they need to), sandbox filler caps on the left.

I've also been adding the 0.35mm dia copper wire to the pot lubricators for the feeds, not the easiest of jobs to get them through the apertures in the valve cover and into the lubricator, but being copper it flex's a little bit more. 

All done though, soldered from the rear of the pots and once the footplate jig is off i'll cut the wires flush to the footplate underside and dab a spot of solder on them to keep them fixed in situ. With the lubricator feeds done i can also fix the smokebox saddle in place as i don't need access for anything else.

I'll add the handrail knobs to the boiler/firebox assembly along with the pipe brackets for the ejector exhaust pipe and the pipe itself next.

The cab roof is made up from the parts shown, the cradle is a fold up item and incorporates the front and rear roof stiffeners which will later be cut away from the frame. Both the roof and the ventilator parts need rolling into a shallow curve before fitting.

With the front and rear stiffeners positioned it's quite a simple operation to solder everything together, there are a selection of vents with both open and one closed so i've gone for the later option.

With the jig cut away and a test fit onto the cab. 

On 01/12/2022 at 07:58, ianLMS said:

 

Looks like a well organised work bench there Ian 😁

Hi Ian,

Thanks, it's great to see how your getting on with them, more than happy for you to continue, at least when other members search it'll be in one thread.

Cheers

Hi John,

This company in the Czech republic offer various rivets for different scales mainly for planes/tanks etc however they do plain sets too. The delivery is about a week from order, the link below is for single line 0.15mm dia at 0.8mm pitch they are quite small so if you were to try them i'd suggest trying a range of scales. No link just a happy customer.

https://hgwmodels.cz/en/172-scale/540-single-lines-rivets-080-mm-172-722013.html

15 minutes ago, JeffP said:

Did you drill with a pinchuck, or a Dremel-type?

Hi Jeff,

I have a 240v Proxon that i use for the drilling, the castings that came with the kit are quite hard (maybe a brass alloy?), i'd guess using a pinchuck would be possible, though it may take some time and even the slightest movement with a 0.3mm bit would break it. Ideally the use of a drill stand would be the way to go but i don't have one. Just trying to see what your drilling was the most challenging thing.

25 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

Hi Dave.

Good to see that the drilling went OK.

Regards Lez.

Cheers Lez, yes it went very well, i wanted to drill them through so that i can solder the copper wire from the rear of the lubricators when i get to that stage, it's an easy clean up operation then especially as it's not seen.

Splashers have been added, these are quite a neat design with the footplate fitting into a half etched recess on the splasher front, the tops have a flap that needs rivets pressing out before this is located into a half etched recess on the footplate. I'm wondering though that the lip (about 1mm) that now sits below the footplate may well foul the wheels so this may need to be removed at a later date. Also added were the valve guide covers, the tops are an overlay that sits onto a frame that is soldered to the footplate first.

We were then into small part country, the hinges for the access covers on the front of the footplate and the pot lubricators needed adding. The lubricators will have some thin 0.3 ish copper wire soldered into them at a later date for all of the feeds to various locations under the footplate (copper wire will bend easily), but before this i needed to drill each of the 8 pots 3 times with a 0.3mm drill to suit the copper wire. The magnifying headband i bought donkies ago was very useful here as i could hardly see the ports that the drill needed to start at without it. I was expecting a battle but they all went ok with just the one drill bit. On the bottom of the pot lubricator support legs are approx 0.4mm dia locating lugs (the castings are very good indeed), there are locations marked on the valve covers for the positioning of these but the holes needed drilling to locate these into (something not mentioned in the instructions). Once drilled they provide a good sturdy locator so that with the pots support legs tinned they could be soldered to the valve guide cover top from the rear. The hinges for the access covers likewise were tinned before holding in place with fine tweezers and soldering in situ. 

The copper wire thickness below is 0.3mm so that gives an idea of size.