k22009

9 hours ago, Dave John said:

If its any help I found the Halfords Burgundy red to be a bit redder than the vauxhall burgandy red I sprayed my rake of GCS with. To my eye ( though thats not really all that accurate ) the Ford burgundy red is a bit too purply for Midland red. However I do know that the undercoat colour influences it, so might look right. 

 

Mind you I'm not the best at painting, and we all see colour a bit differently. 

Thanks i'll probably try a couple if they look close and as you say the primer coat does make a difference so i'll try both red and grey see how they look on a test piece.

8 hours ago, farren said:

Sorry first message on you topic but have been following. That’s a lovely build very tempting indeed, I did complete a old white metal one which isn’t bad as a layout model but definitely doesn’t have the crispness on the detail like what your creating. I never finished mine as the gearbox never meshed properly, and was put in a box where it still is. 

Time to get that old kit out and get a nice High Level gearbox in it, it'll soon be thundering around the layout.

Hi Jol,

Thanks, firstly, I hope your retina problem is improving, i've missed your contribution on your workbench.

The pivot position between the front 2 axles allows you to use horn blocks/guides with a pivoting tube on a fixed rod soldered to the frames with an equalising rod/beam resting on the mid point of the 2 axles. As i've chosen on my model to drive the rear axle so splitting the bogie and drivers i've not been able to go for full blown flexichas compensation with a link beam and equalising beam pivoted between the rear axle and the bogie, the twin beams i have used uses the same pivot point. So i'm not sure what i can alter really and if there's not much interest the drawings will be heading to the depths of the hard drive anyway. 

The chassis has been finished it's powered by a 1428 Mashima along with a 45:1 High Level Roadrunner plus gearbox driving the rear axle so should be plenty of power. Most of the detailing is now completed (whistle to add though), so next stop will be the sink and a good clean.

A few photos attached with the roof placed in position. I'm pleased with how it looks and as Stephen said earlier in the thread it will look nice with a rake of Ratio suburbans so i guess that's something else for the future to do list. I'd better get down to Halfords to see if i can find a replacement for Rover Damask Red (i think maybe Ford Burgundy red) if not i'll maybe get some made up from a Motor Factors. 

If anyone is interested in an etch, message me please if you do rather than adding onto the thread, the artwork will need a revision as there were a couple of things that need altering. I'll include as many resin castings as i can (they are not perfect by any means the dome could do with being slightly taller), along with round top and belpaire back heads for the superheated version and the usual drawings, instructions, parts lists, parts drawing etc.

Cheers 

16 hours ago, brossard said:

I have a soft spot for this loco.  I spent a fair bit of coin buying a model that had allegedly been professionally built.  After I got it I discovered it was rubbish.  I set out to make a decent model of it and got well advanced.  Then I had my road to Damascus moment with 0 gauge and that was that.

 

Here's where I got to FWIW:

 

 

The idea was to super detail the body.  Chassis was scratch built.  Bogie was cobbled up from a Comet kit.  Someone actually bought it, no idea if that person made anything out of it.  Wish I'd had your etches then, so much better.

 

Anyway, I've been watching the build and really like how it is coming together.

 

John

It was coming together nicely too, there is something quite satisfying about the trials of making a silk purse from a sow's ear, the Midland cab front would have been fun to make though. 

A couple of shots when i trial fitted the boiler assembly. Lead added in the side tanks  and a little in the bunker so it feels far more substantial now.

It fit's, Hallelujah, now onto adding the detailing parts, steps, lamp irons, castings, pipework etc and finishing the chassis off.

I've added the steps, lamp iron and water capacity plate before i fitted the bunker rear, the beading and sloping rear tank top has also been fitted.

Tank tops have had the filler and ties added these fit into half etched grooves on the inside of the tank sides.

All fitted, i've left the front of the beading slightly raised for now so that  i can get the boiler assembly into position, the front has locating tabs. I took the opportunity to add the tank handrails while the access is easy. I'll add lead sheet to the inside of the tanks front and rear before i position the boiler assembly for good.

27 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

As somebody who is new to kit building, thank you for the step by step approach, its fascinating and informative.  I am an interested to see more how the rocker beams work with the wheel sets when you get down to that point.

 

I am assuming this is an etch you have put together for yourself - or do you do kits to sell?.

 

Rich

Thanks Rich, the rocker or compensation beams should move up and down if there are any irregularities with the track so in theory giving better adhesion and also probably more importantly better electrical pickup.

The etch is primarily done for myself but as with a few of the last locos i've built i've offered them to anyone that's interested once i've ironed out as many of the problems that i can.

On 12/10/2021 at 16:33, k22009 said:

 

Thanks yes you're right, i've just looked and noticed that i put the wrong former onto the boiler end. Doh.

Corrected former, i'd never have noticed it unless it had been pointed out as i'm using the saturated version.

6 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Before you go any further I'm a little worried that the top of the firebox is too high compared to the boiler. Photo's show them almost at the same level, with no real 'step' between the two.

Thanks yes you're right, i've just looked and noticed that i put the wrong former onto the boiler end. Doh.

4 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Just wondering if it would be easier to follow the prototype and make the splashers in full, with cut-outs in the piece that goes on the underside of the tank? 

That's something i'd not thought of, it would be possible, it would take some of the open area at the front of the tanks and behind the center driver away from lead filling though. Although there will probably be plenty of room elsewhere. I'll have a play on Cad with it.

I've made up both boiler assemblies, just to make sure both were ok. 

They were both made up using the guide holes i added to each of the formers so they would locate accurately, the boiler smokebox and firebox (on the superheated version) are all half etched so they form quite easily. The saturated version smokebox front includes the tank fronts also in one piece, whereas the superheated version the smokebox was enlarged to fit the superheater header and consequently protrudes forward of the tank fronts.

This is the saturated version, the 3 small holes are for the tank top stays which will hope fully line up with stays fitted onto the tank tops. I used additional larger diameter formers to make the step between boiler and smokebox.

The superheated version has the belpaire firebox, several thicknesses of former at the front allow the edge to be filed to shape.

The superheated version fits onto a different cab front, a more typical Derby style one.

The side windows have been revised on the etch so they are now semi circular at the top and bottom.

I'll add the tank tops next so that the boiler assembly can be trial fitted.

More work on the flat irons distinctive cut outs, this time splashers, reversing rod support and what must be the upper frames. 

The portion of splasher that is visible is quite small, the tops however do roll easily enough with an exacto knife handle bearing down onto the cutting mat. It's a hot finger job when it comes to soldering them to the splasher fronts. 

Then comes the tricky part in getting them located under the cut out but flush with what would be the footplate, that spare pair of hands would have come in handy.

Once these were all in position, the reversing lever support and upper frames fit between them, again it's a bit tricky to keep it all flat underneath. Once done however the cab was formed at the top edges to follow the front/rear profile, The front tank top beadings and those around the cab opening were also added while access was easy, then both sides were fitted to the footplate and cab front and rear. I've left a little cab beading overhanging i'll trim that back once the handrails are fitted.

Tank tops and then the boiler assembly next. 

With the tank sides removed, i formed each end of the tank cut out around a 12 diameter bar and fitted so they were flush with the outside.

The cab floor and cab splashers were also folded to there required shape, window frames added to both cab front and rear which also needed folding to shape. I'm building the original saturated version so the cab front has circular openings rather than the more usual Derby Midland style 4 oblong windows that the superheated version had.

The recesses in the sides are for the tank tops and the bunker bottom/rear tank top.

And with all of the cab parts fitted to the footplate.

I've folded up the sandboxes and and fitted these to the frame sides, the solder fills the recess on the sloping edge

After this i decided to make up the basic footplate assembly so that i could check the chassis fit for length and the locating screw positions. The valences always need care in fitting and i find it's something to take plenty of time over getting the positioning correct. They are set in from the edge just about 0.5mm. Once they were on the buffer beams are added to make a good solid platform for the rest of the model.

And with the chassis underneath all fits and lines up perfectly to my relief. But to be honest that's the beauty of CAD as long as you pull the items from the assembly drawing you work too then it's more difficult to go wrong. 

I set aside the footplate and made up the coupling rods sweating the 2 sides together, after a very slight ream of the holes to remove the excess solder i checked the fit using axle alignment jigs.

Then finally the last job before i can paint the chassis adding the sand pipes and supports. The brake hanger rods i've added too but i'll add the actual brake hangers and blocks after it's painted and the wheels are on as i only want to fit them once. 

I'll give the chassis a good clean now before priming and top coat. While i wait for less damp conditions i'll get the bodywork prepared next.

I'm as always impressed by the exceptional craftsmanship that goes into your builds. Inspiring.

Cut out and laid all of the chassis components out, i've included compensation beams with the etch so i'll fit these rather than hornblocks so i've opened out the axle holes to the front 2 driver positions to allow a little movement for the bearings when they are in the beams. 

The tube which slides over the pivot has been split into 2 equal parts, so that the beams will move independently. A rod identical to the pivot has been dipped into brass black, i'll use this to enable me to solder the pivot tubes to the beams themselves. Once they are soldered together i'll then remove the rod add brass black to the pivot tubes only so that when i solder the actual pivot rod between the frames it won't solder everything up tight.

Below is a shot showing the beams on the outside next to the frames, you can see in the photo above there is plenty of room for movement of the bearings in the frame axle holes.

Dave

2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

and space to house a large motor!

It's a fairly cavernous space above the footplate, plenty of room for a big motor if required, plenty of space for weight, decoders, and speakers if that's what's required. It should be possible to have pickups on top of the footplate too for certainly the front 2 pairs of drivers which should keep the underside a bit tidier.

It's in 4mm.

The 40 Deeley 0-6-4 tanks or Flatirons were all built in Derby in 1907 numbered 2000 to 2039, they were all originally built Saturated but by 1927 had been converted to superheated and by 1938 had all been scrapped.

The etch caters for both saturated and superheated versions, this one will be in the original guise. 

As usual chassis is up first.

Dave

On 22/09/2021 at 08:48, hayfield said:

What a superb little loco and built so quickly 

Thanks John, it's a straightforward build with only a few parts so it does go together quickly. I guess after designing the parts i'm very familiar with where and how everything fits so that does make things easier.

On 21/09/2021 at 17:06, Compound2632 said:

That does look very tempting. The resin casting (?) dome hasn't quite turned out as well as one might hope, but otherwise it's a sweetie.

Thanks Stephen the dome definitely needs work, it looks a bit battered. 

Sourcing castings and detailing components is an ongoing headache. In an ideal world it would be great if someone with good UK based 3d printing capabilities could start a parts vault that we could all purchase from. Dream on i guess.

Anyway I've revised the artwork now, had a price from the etchers and will be hopefully placing an order early next week for these. The etch with the castings i have (as i said before they're ok but not perfect) drawings, instructions, parts lists etc will be £40 inc postage if anyone wants a Mitsumi motor too that will be an additional £7. Please message me if you do.

Cheers

Dave

45 minutes ago, MarkC said:

This is looking very good - they are nice little locomotives. I have a K's version, built by myself in 1976 "as K's intended", & still going strong, many Exhibitions later. This lovely etched model promises to be much better.

 

I have to admire your using Romford crankpins though - are these 'traditional' ones requiring soldering, or the more recent 'de luxe' version? I wrecked a Gibson wheel once whilst soldering, even though I was as quick as possible with the iron; haven't tried it since, preferring to use Gibson crankpins. Yes, I'm a coward 

 

Mark

Thanks Mark there are a few small modifications i have to do to the etch but they will be available if anyone wants a bash.

Yes they're the plain Romford crankpins, sometimes i solder them but very often i just dab a drop of cyano onto the retainer. It's relatively easy to break the joint then if you need to adjust at a later date. I use them because i'm not keen on the threaded pin and sleeve that Gibson uses (i do use Gibson crankpins without the collar some times if it's not going to get a lot of running time), it also takes a lot of meat out of the rod.

On with the chassis, all very straightforward i've added the fold up sandboxes and brake gear before being painted. Once dry i made up the high level roadrunner plus gearbox, mitsumi motor and gibson wheels with romford crankpins. As it's an 0-4-0 no trouble with quatering the wheels, added some pcb underneath along with pickups from phospher bronze wire. The mitsumi motors have holes at a different setting to the gearbox so i usually solder it on but in this case i fitted it with the fixing screws in the holes provided.

Detailing next.

It never ceases to amaze me what information is available from the membership on here, the help and assistance is always gratefully received. Thanks.

The saddle tank was formed after a bit of a wrestle, but with the use of the rolling bars and a few small steel bars to get the smaller radius corners to match the formers i got there. 

The smokebox base formed and a nut soldered onto the inside before attaching to the saddle tank front. Here shown all assembled just placed in position for know.

In the picture below you can just see the joint between the separate lower boiler and firebox, the firebox top extends under the saddle tank. Once the pipework is added that will hopefully be disguised.

Chassis completion next and to see how the motor/gearbox fits.