Caley Jim

Are there any other combinations of gears which can be used with the  Hunslet Austerity 0-6-0ST (3-640) replacement chassis in order to obtain a higher reduction ratio?

 

Am I right in assuming the total gear ratio for the recommended gears is approx 39:1 (18/14 * 30/1 = 38.57)? Or I got it wrong?...

 

Thank you,

I'm not familiar with either the Loco or the chassis kit, but, assuming the gear shaft centres are fixed by the etch, then, unless you can get some finer gears which have the same meshing centres, that's the best you can get with Association gears.   Your calculations are correct.    In fact, I would think this should be a good enough reduction, especially if you are using a coreless motor.  What diameter are the wheels - 4'6"?

 

Jim

Link to my 2fs layout below.

No progress over the past three month or so due to lack of time.

Jim

I particularly recall the tale of a manager who was staying overnight at one of the intermediate stations which was situated at the bottom of a gradient in either direction. During the night an unfitted freight suffered a break away and the errant portion of the train performed a pendulum act up and down each gradient, travelling through the station several times before finally being brought to a stand. In the morning the manager declared he hadn't realised how busy the line was at night!

Or the Portpatrick local which started slipping going up the bank one wet and windy night. The driver said to the fireman that they would have to split the train, to which the fireman replied 'Hae ye got a saw? '. They only had 1 coach on!

Jim

What the deuce (polite word) has Ebay done with the "finescale" category by now calling it "rare gauges". I also can't shortcut to the category by clicking on a previous item's title.

How do they justify calling S7, S/P4 and 2FS 'rare'?

 

Jim

Anybody know the origin of the outside framed van body in this photo?

http://cumbrianrailways.zenfolio.com/p328179906/h11f95c0b#h184f9d8d

 

Jim

...... I was really impressed with the conversion, however the loco seemed to stall just off top dead centre and bottom dead centre, but when removed from the track the couplings rods/wheels didn't appear to be tight, .....

I meant to comment on this in my last post.  Are you certain that the quartering is spot on? Try setting the rods on one side at top, or bottom, dead centre.  Then turn the loco over without allowing the wheels to move.  Now look at the cranks on this side and see if they all lie at the same angle, ideally horizontal, or at least near it.  If any of them don't, place a small screwdriver between the spokes on that wheel and gently turn it slightly to the correct position.  I've often found that the problem you describe can be cured, or at least greatly reduced this way and it's worth repeating it several times.  If the running gets worse, then undo the last adjustment a wee bit..  A bit of running in can help too.

 

Jim

............., it performed very well but showed up a couple of tight points between the V's and check rails, ........

 

Have you checked the back-to-backs of the loco wheels?  Sometimes if they are slightly tight (i.e. the gauge does not slip in easily) it can make them tight going through the crossings, especially if the between checks is a little wide.   I remember Anthony's 08 stuttered going through crossings until he found that the centre wheels were a tad under gauge.

 

Nice to see such good progress.  Wish I could get the time these days!

 

Jim

I must admit I know very little about all this technical stuff and have even less interest. I build layouts and run trains with some degree of success. I use what works for me and care little about the technicalities or what theory says should or shouldn't work.

Jerry

I can relate to all of that!  Amps, volts and ohms I can cope with - after that I'm lost!

 

Jim

I have heard no ill reports of using HF Track cleaners with DC, only good things.

 

CME

! used one on Connerburn before I went DCC and never had any problems.  In fact we often found that the layout was running better at the end of a show than it had been at the start!

Jim

Hi Justin,

 

To my eyes, they look a wee bit dark - nearer mahogany than teak.

I've built four of David's kits for GER NPCS, all finished in teak.  I used the method recommended by David, applying a base coat of yellow, followed by brushing burnt umber artist acrylic along the grain with a stiff brush.  Results below (which were to David's critical satisfaction) sitting in the carriage siding on Connerburn.

 

 

Jim

 I wish I still had the GNSR 3-plank wagon, and the ribbed square base buffers for it, now I am modelling that railway in 2mm scale.  

If you look a the last photo on my Kirkallanmuir thread (link in the signature) you will see one of these carrying a large packing case covered in a GNSR tarpaulin!  I also have an NB van and GCR cattle truck and my model of 499 also uses one of your kits.

 

Jim

Lovely work Jim. Would this be the John Boyle in Lydney who normally builds 0 gauge stuff.

 

Don

Thanks, Don.

 

John lives near Cheltenham and, yes, most of his etches are produced in 7mm.  They were marketed under the 'Decent Coaches' label, but another member of the CRA has now taken over the sale of them.   The 45ft coaches in the photo of No.445 are from his artwork also.

 

Jim

Fantastic Jim,

 

They all look superb, Can I ask how you do your lettering, lining and crests?

 

I was resigned to Photo reducing some 4mm transfers or are there 2mm versions available?

Thanks, Angus.

 

All my lettering and crests are done by hand with a fine sable brush, 000 or the like using thinned enamel paints.  Recently I've taken to using white artists acrylic for wagon lettering.  The lining on my early locos was done with a bow pen directly onto the model, but on the last 5 I've built, plus a repaint of No. 29, I've used the following method, which I've just described on the CRA forum:

 

1. Stick some strips of sellotape to a smooth tile so that they butt up against one another

2. paint a thick coat of gloss white enamel onto the sellotape and give it a good 24hrs+ to dry

3. with a bow pen draw a series of lines in black gloss paint or indian ink leaving a couple of mm between them and allow to dry

4. with a new No 15 scalpel blade, cut lightly either side of a black line, leaving a small edge of white

5. carefully lift the end of the strip of lining thus produced and gently peel it off the sellotape. This takes a bit of practice and some strips will break.

6. dip the strip in a 50/50 mix of varnish and thinners and then place in position on the model using a couple of cocktail sticks to align it

 

For curved lining, leave the strip in the varnish mix fr a little longer and it will soften sufficiently to allow you to bend it gently round with the cocktail sticks. The curves around cab and frame cut-outs etc. are a we bit too tight for this to work there, but I have got away with doing it with a few short straight bits. The lining has to be cut short of the corners and they are filled in with a fine brush.

 

There are no transfers available in 2mm as far as I am aware.  I'm embarrassed to say this, but the late Colin Brady showed one of my coaches to Fox Transfers at a Glagow show and asked if they could produce transfers for the crests.  The answer he got was 'Not as good as these'.    

 

Jim

For anyone who is interested, I've posted some photos of my locos at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/61066-scottish-locomotives/page-8&do=findComment&comment=1836754 .

 

Jim

A thread on the 2FS layout i currently have under construction is at the link in my signature.

 

Jim

Earlier I wrote: "I built one of these in 2fs some time ago using etches reduced from John Boyle's artwork. "

I should have mentioned that this loco can be seen emerging from under the bridge in the last post on my layout thread - link in the signature below.

Jim

In a bout of blatant self promotion I am intending to document a scratch build of a Caley 171 tank in 2mm over on the "Build a loco Challenge forum".

 

All advice, encouragement and criticism gratefully received, although I reserve the right to ignore the latter

I built one of these in 2fs some time ago using etches reduced from John Boyle's artwork. I'm away from home at the moment and don't have any photos of it on my tablet. It has a Branchlines minimotor (which I believe is no longer available), 2mmSA gears and disc bogie wheels kindly made for me by a now deceased member. I intend posting some photos on here of my CR 2fs Locos when I get home and have caught up on all that I have to do after a month away.

Jim

.......... There's something about chocolate and cream coaches that is irresistible .........

 

Jerry

But not as irrsistable as purple brown and white. :-)

 

Jim

Just found this thread and notice that it's dominated by 4mm motorised biscuit tins, so thought I'd balance things up a bit with a mention of my 1885-1915 period CR layout Kirkallanmuir. Thread at the link at the bottom of this. A couple of photos of track laying in progress.

Jim W

It would be a waste to use whisky, but whiskey might be acceptable!

Out of interest I notice that the leading tarpaulin'd wagon has a representation of ropes - I have and will want several wagons with tarpaulins over them, and am interested to know what you've used for the ropes - I considered very fine wire (I have some 0.003" stainless steel wire that I thought might be useful if I could colour it (probably by chemical blackening)).

 

Ian

I use fine sewing thread.  My wife has quite a selection of colours.  I think that one (which is a Graham Hughes GNoS open kit) was straw coloured thread, treated with some dilute brown acrylic colour to make it more 'rope' coloured.  This also helped to take the hairy look off the thread.  The thread is wrapped round the buffers and then secured with a spot of cyano.   On my CR wagons the tarps are tied down with pale blue thread as Caley ropes had a blue strand through them.

Jerry,

 

It's obviously bridge building season!!!  

 

I see you're even putting the stonework under the arch!     

 

I was severely criticised by the Forth and Clyde group's resident engineer because I hadn't put in the cross girders under mine!  

 

Jim

I thought the big tubular bit between the fire box and the smoke box was the 'steam generator', but what do I know?  

 

Jim