Caley Jim

20 hours ago, CF MRC said:

The standard stock also ran and looked the part. This train may get a new mechanism and act as a prototype for the gate stock which is currently at the design stage in the Jim Watt works.

The drawing office at JW Works has yet to commence work on this project as all staff are currently fully occupied in the erecting shop.  Thinking will hopefully commence soon!

Jim (MD,CEO, & General Factotum)

4 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

 

Having seen the excellent OO model of York seen on other threads on this forum, .......

If it's this one to which you are referring, it's 2FS, not 00.

Jim

tender body coming along slowly.  The openings in the footplate and tank top needed a wee bit of fettling to clear the motor etc, but otherwise most bits fitted rather well.

This side has the 'temporary' coupling rod.  the extra weight is keeping the tender a bit steadier, but there is a slight stiff spot which causes it to wobble slightly.  I think that's in the gears somewhere and will hopefully 'run out' once it gets a bit of lubrication.  It's already been run with some toothpaste to polish the gears.

Front plates/cab doors and toolboxes next, then I'll start on the bogie outside frames.

Jim

1 hour ago, CKPR said:

 (another instance of the M&CR havin deek aboot Carlisle for some inspiration, this time from the Caley ?)

Yes, indeed. The CR had some early similar asymmetrical ones with a raised centre section. 

Jim 

Magnificent as always!

Jim

17 minutes ago, Schooner said:

Behold!

 

 

 

that's got mair pipes and tubes than a plumber's van!

Jim

Hi Adam. It's just that I have a'thing'about not wanting to have a drive shaft flailing about between the low tender and relatively open cab of my tender locos. I've no objection to other folk doing it, that's their choice. It does make things a bit more complicated with the extra gears on the tender and the need for a lay gear in the loco, but for me it's worth it to get the drive shaft out of sight. Purely a personal thing and not something I would necessarily encourage folk to do unless they are similarly minded. 

Jim 

12 minutes ago, webbcompound said:

So the government is exercised about the hundreds of thousands of immigrants. Perhaps if they didn't include the 300,000 students from overseas in their ludicrous calculations things would get "better" at a stroke.

My daughter is working in a University post where she was dealing with postgraduate students, almost all from overseas.  It was their fees that are paying her salary!  If the number of overseas students is reduced then the Universities are going to suffer financially.

Forgive me if I'm missing a point here, but I cannot get my head round the logic that the threat of shipping immigrants off to Rwanda is somehow or other going to stop the illegal gangs taking oodles of money from them and dispatching them from the beaches of France!  Why aren't the French getting on top of the gangs? 

I'll tell you why, they're only too happy to see the back of the poor souls and don't give a sou what happens to them after they are out of their hair!

Jim

If it's Zinc, it should be possible to solder it.

Jim

At least we don't have someone standing for election who thinks Al Capone 'was the greatest' (it takes one to know one) and says he will only act as a dictator on the first day of his presidency!  that will probably involve making himself President for life and abolishing all opposition parties!  Small comfort.

Jim

Another addition would be to drill a pair of holes vertically into both parts, from the underside, and fit a couple of wire staples in them, spanning the joint, to not only reinforce the joint, but also hold the parts together firmly while the Araldite suggested by @WFPettigrew sets.  That would be the most secure way of doing that.  Getting the staples the correct size between the legs will be the trickiest part and may need a few goes to get them right.

Jim

After removing the sacrificial tabs etc., adding the springs carrying current from loco frames to tender and masking off the gearbox with tape, the chassis was given a quick blast with rattle can black.  The wheels were then fitted along with the gears.

At this point there was one of those 'b****r it!' moments when I found I only had a set of layers for one coupling rod when I was absolutely certain I had put two on the sheet!  Close examination of the artwork showed that I hadn't put any tags on the second set attaching it to the parts around it so there was a glaring hole in the sheet where that set should have been!   See this C-Nile virus?  Does it never stop raising it's ugly head?  Guess what will be going on the next sheet I do!

Only solution in the short term was to use the made up rod as  template to make a temporary one and, while it's not as neat as the etched one and not fluted, it seems to do the job as the wheels turn in unison when powered.  The photo has the good one on this side.  The crankpins on the other side have been left long to make it easier to eventually replace the rod.

Running is somewhat erratic as the lack of weight causes both chassis to shake about a bit resulting in poor current collection, so no video of it, but if the tender is held steady, the wheels turn reasonably smoothly.  Hopefully the weight of the tender and loco bodies will cure that.  You can just see the drive shaft running behind the spring.

I won't be making the front bogie until the loco body is well on the way as the body fixing screw will only be accessible with the bogie off.

Jim

2 hours ago, DavidLong said:

Most courageous if I may say so. I haven't dared to try it yet!

It's what I've always used.  Watered down to the consistency of thick cream and applied with a soft No.6 artist's paintbrush.

Jim

Sorry, Mike.  I should have been paying attention😒!

Jim

This project might give you some inspiration.

Jim

I'm not sure if you are aware of this, Mike, and I can't make out what you've done from the photos, but the side cupboard doors were usually double skinned, with one layer of planks vertical and the other horizontal, which layer was which depended on the builder, e.g. the CR built them with the outer layer horizontal, but private builder often had that layer vertical.

Jim

Mike Williams has replied stating that he and Ed McKenna, who have been researching traders wagons, have nothing to add.  In that case I would go with red oxide, black ironwork and white lettering.  Whether you shade it or not is your choice.  If anyone comes along and says you are wrong, the appropriate response is, as always, 'prove it'!

Jim

1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

 

I dare say it's just my Claytonesque predjudice but those old Scottish coal bogies don't just look as if they came out of the Ark but as if they were made from its remains by Noah's sons. 

I have a few of them!

There's another five where they came from!🙂  (And a few more to build)

Jim

Following some advice from @AY Mod, I've rescanned the photo as a .png and been able to upload that.

Jim

1 hour ago, airnimal said:

Jim, this wagon is described as being rebuilt from a dumb buffered wagon with new timbers, and on a previous page of Len Tavender's book there is a smaller 6'6" wheel base one with the same number. Both are lettered the same with the same number but surly if the smaller wagon was rebuilt to such an extent it would be a new wagon altogether.  There is no indication of colour on either drawing. The side door is very small for such a large wagon but with the end door being used for tipping this small door might not be used much.

That sounds like one of the early 6 or 7 ton 'bogies' with outside framing.  It was probably replaced by an 8T dumb buffered wagon as a renewal, taking the same number, and this in turn was converted to spring buffered when dumb buffers were outlawed.

Had another go at scanning and uploading the photo I have, but still get a 'problem up loading this file' message!  ☹️

Jim

'Round of applause' doesn't cut it.  We need a 'standing ovation' emoji!

Jim  😃

Attention has now turned to the loco frames.  The gearbox was assembled first and the meshing checked by having a long shaft on the worm which could be rotated with a pin chuck. The gears were then removed prior to soldering on the thin PCB pads which will retain it in the frames, after which the worm was refitted on its proper shaft, as it will be extremely difficult to fit when the gearbox is in the frames.

the two frames are etched in one piece with a couple of cross-members below the coupled axles.  These allow the frames to remain square when they are bent up and will be filed away now that the spacers and gearbox are all in.

In this top view you can see all the sacrificial lugs which ensure the spacers and gearbox are accurately located.  Also the two trunnions with holes at the top which, by passing the length of axle steel through them and the gearbox, ensure the bearings for the lay gear are at exactly the correct spacing from the driven axle.  They too are sacrificial.

In order to give the bogie wheels a bit more clearance from the frames, the latter are joggled in 10thou each side at the front, the bends being re-enforced with generous fillets of solder.

Removing the sacrificial parts and then cleaning up are the next job.

Jim 

5 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Given that the colliery was in NB territory, I would guess grey, .......

Seems I might be wrong on that.

I posted a question on the CRA forum and the following are extracts from the only reply so far :-

I have a colour photo of Arniston 515 12t taken many years ago where the livery is (well faded) red oxide, letter white shaded black. I think this wagon is at Prestongrange.

........

..........an extract from the Pickering order book which reads:-
[ARNISTON COAL Co., Ltd. Gorebridge. Brown Oxide, white lettering with black shading. And ironwork. Some wagons without shading,
1 coat of Tar inside. 1901, 1904, 1905, 1907.

Will report any more responses.

Jim

1 hour ago, airnimal said:

Jim, I forgot to ask if you know what colour this wagon would be painted. 

Given that the colliery was in NB territory, I would guess grey, but I'll try and find out definitely for you.  is there no indication on the drawing you have?

Jim