JimFin

The Bemo track was code 100 and code 70.

There are a few interesting sculptures dotted about - this is still at the back of A & M - At Gevag, the guy walking the plank is a bit weird

The prototype - And the view from it - looking over the A & M recycling yard to the Gevac waste to energy plant :) So - not really Heidiland.....

Have a look at p15 and p13 of the manual, ( p15 says refer to p14 - but that is a typo, its p13 you need) I think you need to set them to toggle mode which is "h" not "-h"

If you are talking about a "gap" like a window in the side of a coach or a "edge" as in a chassis frame, then its down to a process of orientation and support. The optimum orientation is determined by the layer height and pixel width of the printer screen using the ARCTAN formula. Supports need to be placed having regard to the size, type and penetration depth being appropriate for the model to be printed, taking account of solid/hollow models and adequate drainage of resin back to the vat. Understanding and managing these issues is one of knowledge and experience, as is selecting the right type or blend of resins to have the properties needed for the finished model. As TM2201A has said, not all modellers have the skills to use every tool in the modeling world and 3d printing is no different. So to answer that specific question - I think its down to the individual modeller interested in the subject to research the topic, take advantage of the many tutorials, specialist support groups/forums available to increase their knowledge and experiment to determine the capabilities of the printer they have selected.

Send me a PM - I have some spare.

They are after an award for the best PR photo of the year using one from the 100 Capricorn event - vote here if you think it is deserving! https://pr-bild-award.submit.to/browse/categories/6474/entries/125377?fbclid=IwAR2ucdajhop49_sGtWPXJ6jzxk2FZUSepRPRbawOARBipPiK713F-z7dhiM

Making progress now on the other side of the motorway, builders supply merchant, some caravan storage tucked between the chemical works and the motorway. Autumnal trees going in and the hotel will be next on the agenda.

So the motorway lift out section is virtually complete and has developed to be quite a nice little diorama on its own. Need to make a few more vehicles and still some vegetation to complete on the opposite embankment.

Another vote for these. Doing great service on my layouts. Best prewired with a harness on the workbench, solder from the inner connectors outward and use shrink wrap over each wire.

From my point of view, I would not want to force it.

Bit of an update on progress. The lift out scenic section with the motorway is coming along. One embankment has been completed with scrub and a cycle path running beside it with a crossing over the track. Central reservation has been completed, the other embankment will be next. Along at the chemical plant, security fencing has been added round the compound.

Gordon, Cannot help with the specific information but - using street view from Viktoria Strasse in Brig gives a good square on view of the platform - image capture is dated 2013 if that helps. Using the standing figure to scale from, the approx height from rail top to platform is around 20% - say 300 to 350mm.

Absolutely correct. More points you pick the better the result. 5 is good, 8 is better depending on the scene. Photo2 software makes the processing very easy.

With a good camera, then next adventure may be to explore focus stacking - it sorts the depth of field issue and brings all the elements into focus. Have a browse at this and you can get Photo2 for a 30 day free trail if you fancied experimenting.

Having fought with the helixes on Obervaz, albeit 9mm gauge rather than 12mm - you might want to consider set track rather than flexi track for the helix. The difficulty is keeping the exact curvature over the rail joints with flexi track which is not an issue with set track. The new Hornby TT range includes R3 at 353mm radius which would be a close fit to your plan.

I did actually contemplate and did some research on a 1953 version running in brown and green but apart from the OHP, was very little difference with the 1913. 2113 was also floated.................. Fortunately my therapist persuaded me that I had displayed enough signs of modelling madness to be at risk of intensive therapy and I should call a halt at that. Modules (s) may happen after I have Obervaz complete.

One item not included in the original planning which I have added retrospectively to both layouts is a number of uncoupling ramps. It adds a bit more operational interest but in truth, rarely used in exhibitions. On both layouts it would have been good to have automated the signals in some way. 2013 has manually operated colour lights but the 1913 fixed position dummies. That is one item, I would like to revisit. Both layouts have the potential to have extensions added with a point at either end of the fiddle yard taking the line through the end facia onto new add on sections. If/when these are retired as movable exhibition layouts it is something I might look at and create some new scenes, possible switchable modules if i can find the space!

Anyone who is interested but missed the live feed, this is the link to the recording. https://us06web.zoom.us/rec/share/ep1NyF4-o22fmkLRoVAFKmLuPYlBkU5Oa89akgD2pfA0PFHyXG9U1jcB68LSLFRF.EH_bP0A1HX4GiHot Passcode: g0j83Be%

Looks like you are taking your work home to me.....

I use a multi purpose Lithium grease. comes in a toothpaste size tube with a screw on dispenser - like this https://toolshouse.co.uk/products/neilsen-grease-gun-ct4136

That is a regular service job for me, makes quite a difference. Important to get it into the block, not applied to the rails. Pump it in and then run the carriage up and down a few times to ensure all the bearings are coated. Did not know that was how Chitubox handled light off so thanks, don't use it myself but useful to know. Keeping temperature around 25c is always helpful, try and make sure the build plate is warm as well otherwise you are dipping a cold heat sink into the resin.

Two thoughts - light off delay is at the lower end of the range in my experience, possibly try 1sec. Other thought is are the slide bearings and z axis well lubed? May be some jerky movement. There are grease nipples on the underside of the slide blocks but it's easier to take out the screw centre top and pump them full of lithium grease.

If anyone would like to know more about the Neuburg project, I will be delivering a presentation to the June virtual meeting of the Swiss Railway Society on Zoom. Members and non-members are all welcome to join in and a recording will be available after the event for those unable to catch it live. Log-in details for the June Meeting are: Topic: Virtual Branch Meeting – June Time: Jun 18, 2023 08:00 PM London Join Zoom Meeting https://us06web.zoom.us/j/81195785864?pwd=ZCtEdEpKTXN5cjUwSk1YRUdDeGZQdz09 Meeting ID: 811 9578 5864 Passcode: TxG28P

Not exactly sure why the auto leveling is such a feature, I think I level my Mono x 4K about once every 6 months as and when when I change the fep - and it takes maybe 30 seconds.