JimFin

You should have a look at Thomas Kestenholz's site - http://kesti.ch/rhb1913/

Just scroll down here and you will find some pics - https://hiveminer.com/Tags/bahn%2Cbar

Thanks guys, both of these are older models with the 3 pole motors but one has the classic pantograph and the other modernised single arm - so don't give up on your hunt. No sockets on these so it will be hard wired.Think I will try with one and if successful, do the second. Exhibition running does tend to bring out the weaknesses though!

Michael at http://www.marnoltd.co.uk/ is (I believe) technically their only UK supplier and is very happy to order anything you have a part number for. If you complete his on-line order form he will get back to you with a price and if you are happy order them for you. Once they are in - he will give you a call with the postage amount - at cost - and take payment by card over the phone. He has also managed to get a few parts not listed for my for metal collection locos as they do not come with a parts sheet and also where a item is no longer available ( too old) sourced an appropriate alternative (loco body). Been very helpful indeed and I have now ordered new loco direct from him from the catalogue. More than happy to recommend as I hope he remains in business for some time!

Track Plan. Its a bit of a wind back as the track plan for this layout is driven by 1913 so by way of background - the perfect research resource for planning an RhB layout - The layout is substantially based on Bergun - where the Albula Museum happens to be. Marvellous place to visit with the social and railway engineering history of the area very well presented - along with good cafe an excellent bookshop. Very helpful folk who have responded to my subsequent poorly translated e-mails with additional information. So - this is the actual 1903 track plan - To fit the space available, the right hand end has to curve in the opposite direction and the station siding is replace with a short spur to the loading bay. By 1999 - the station had evolved, losing the turntable and limited use of the engine shed but with a further siding for engineering use. The long siding had become an access line for the Museum. For my purpose and looking at the detail of the station, I am not including the museum - while very tempting - but have realign the track as the station was rebuilt with lines 1 and 2 together as running lines, platform 1 being at the station building side and a large island platform between 2 and 3. The short spur is lost but amended loco shed are retained. With that bit of background, next notes will be tracklaying.

Like this build - not dissimilar to where I am. I have a pair of Ge 6/6 II's still to digitise and wonder if you have tackled those? Currently I am planning to fit 2 decoders, one for each motor on each side of the articulation as I am concerned that the current with 2 motors would need a high power chip and I simply cannot see the space in there for one. Any thoughts?

These? https://www.roco.cc/en/product/229869-67567-0-0-0-0-0-003001/products.html

Baseboards. Well - you have to have them..... For this layout 3 boards, 1.2m X 0.8m each and when assembled gives 2.4m X 1.2m (8 X 4 in imperial). Construction is a frame of 75 x 25 and 50 X 25 plus all the bits I had from dismantling and old bed base. Start with just a simple frame for the first board which is at the loco shed end of the layout. Then add 4 Ikea height adjustable legs onto corner reinforcements in MDF. Making sure diagonals are equal before fixing. Also added a plinth to the side where the centre board adjoins. Repeat the process for the other 2 boards and then add vertical supports to reach the level for track base - to accommodate the viaduct., 320mm. Subsequent boards only have 2 legs each and are supported by the plinth on the previous board. Lay base for track - exterior quality ply to avoid risk of warping. Trace contours from 1913 layout and adjust for changed features e.g width of modern road. Cut thin ply for formers between boards and thick ply for ends and faces. Boards are joined by 8mm wing bolts fitted to "tee nuts". On each board 2 are threaded and 2 machined out which act as an alignment sleeve for the bolt. Its pretty basic but as these are not taking any of the weight of the layout, that is carried by the plinth, these bolts are purely for alignment. At that point - ready for track laying. From past experience (advantage of this project is a I did it before!) formers are not installed over the fiddle yard until it is laid.

Following a visit to Minatur wunderland a few years ago I embarked on a project inspired by Swiss railways and the diaoramas in Hamburg showing the evolution of a section of Berlin from the end of the war to the demolition of the Berlin Wall. I set out to model a typical Swiss style RhB station but a modest enough size to enable a number of versions to be build showing the changes over the years. The station is fictional but based on some careful research and complete liberties being taken to fit my requirements of the railway being set into the scenery, to try and capture the atmosphere, and be capable of being exhibited. On that basis, Neuburg 1913 was completed last year and attended two exhibitions where it was very positively received by visitors and attracted the attention of Continental Modeller - with a subsequent article being included in the "Modelling Swiss Railways" special edition. Pictures of the layout can be found here. https://www.flickr.com/photos/148810032@N02/sets/72157678299593533/ This is how it looks on display - I have decided to share, if anyone is interested, the process of building Neuburg 2013 as some of what I do is very conventional and some a bit different.

As and when you need more decal paper, you might want to try Lazertran Inkjet waterslide decal paper which I got from a guy in Northallerton but online as well. Two advantages - 1) the coating "heals" over the ink and they can be ready to use as waterslides in about 30 minutes, basically s soon as the ink is dry. 2) After you have applied the decal, coat with a water based (acrylic) varnish to retain a white background, use a oil or spirit based varnish to get a clear background. I have used both effects and can confirm it works!

Alan, I have done 3 of these using the Gaugemaster DCC26 compact 8 pin which will just sit on top of the motor and leave space adjacent to the motor for a stay alive which is quite useful given the short wheelbase. Hope the ankle heals quickly. Jim