Shez

Picked up a Connisseur kit for a J83 ( Class D NBR) at Keighley on Sunday. Will build into No 828 shown on the black and white photo posted by Sam on 20th August - so we will be able to have the option of backdating stock to the early 1900s.

With the car in dock this week there has been opportunity for further progress. The instructions suggest constructing the body in a series of modules then bringing them all together, so first I turned my attention to the boiler. I put this together in my usual way using florists wire to hold it securely while I soldered the bottom seam, and held the central former in place with blue tack. I used 188 solder for this. I then added the boiler bands using the Carrs solder cream I bought at Warley. I know this stuff is costly, but I have found it great for detail jobs like this - a tiny amount does the trick and very little cleaning up. I think it will last a long time, as I only use it for a few jobs on each loco. ( It will have to given the bill for the car!) The kit has little half etched guides at the bottom of the boiler to position the bands, with different positions given for a later or earlier boiler. With the boiler completed the next unit was the smokebox. Again there are choices here in terms of drilling out depending on the variant of the loco you are modelling. My loco was one with tallow cups on the side of the smokebox, not the front, and there was no Vacuum brake on this loco, so hole for the pipe into the smoke box is not needed. The wrapper was rolled, and formed around the front - all parts are labelled top, front, rear, etc, and there are some small half etched lines for ling up, so its hard to go wrong. Again I used 188 for strength. Before soldering on the back I put some pieces of lead into the smoke box former to give some forward weight to the loco. With these two units completed its a case of matching them up to the footplate and rear cab assembly - nothing is fixed yet. So we are starting to see something that begins to look like a loco emerging. Next its the bit that those of an NBR persuasion dread, those curved tank tops, with their odd handrails!

Good to hear from you Jamie. Its blowing a gale and raining here in the Pennine foothills, and my cars in dock, so it looks like some more progress today. Having started following the instruction sequence I think I will continue, but wont repeat the experiment. The kit and instructions really are excellent though. Hope everything is good over there in France and that Green Ayre is progressing.

Its been a long time! The summer just went by with things other than building models. Once I got started again, I have not really had computer access to post, as my son is temporarily living at home, and needs the computer for work! However I did get some pictures today, so here is an update on the G7. As you can see form the picture the main chassis is completed painted and tested. I went for plungers in the end, as it seemed simplest given the tight clearances. The chassis runs fine, but because the bogie fits on to separate frames under the footplate I have not been able to test the whole thing yet. Still contemplating adding some bogie pick ups if there are no problems with shorting. The brake gear has been made removable so its easy to get at the insides to make adjustments. The frames are painted NBR Brown along with the wheels. From what I have read, and given the example I have from a NBR paint scheme from the Holmes era I am pretty much convinced NBR frames were the same colour as the loco. Not unusual with pre- grouping companies. So then it was on to the loco body. I have taken a different road from normal here. As I said previously I have not built one of Peters kits before so I am following the build sequence as suggested in his instructions. He starts with the cab and works forward. First job was to put together some sub assemblies. The beading around the cab was the first job. There are two options in the kit - either full pieces, or two half pieces to join. I took the plunge and went for the one piece option. You may notice there is a thin piece of brass across the door opening to prevent it going out of shape when working on it. This is then snipped away when the side is in place. It was then on to the cab rear. Again there are options with the windows - to represent the coal rails you can either use a prepared etch, or as I did take the more masochistic approach of fabricating each from wire. Window frames were added to the cab front. Then with the sub assemblies complete its time to solder them together. The front sides, bunker end and cab rear were all then soldered together. An interesting idea is the inclusion of a full size cab back that can be tacked in place used to align the sides. Once completed it is removed and replaced with the half depth back that has already been prepared. A jig was also supplied for making the coal rails, showing what a lot of thought has gone into a well engineered kit. So what next? I must say my only misgiving is that the footplate is very flimsy without the ends and valences. Need to decide whether to continue the build sequence or follow my more usual approach of creating a solid footplate first. I can see the point of the recommended approach as its easy to get there long tank locos out of alignment.

Backdating the stock should be not a problem. New book confirms that branch loco around 1903. period was Number 828 of what later became the LNER J83 class. This was a Westinghouse fitted loco which later worked in Edinburgh. I have built one of these as number 808 which was a steam braked shunter. There is details of the build on my "Shezs workbench" thread. I don"t want to be hacking her around - she looks too nice as it is - so it looks like another of the Jim McGeowan kits to build 828! ( Though the picture on the box is of the rebuilt LNER version he supplies the alternative parts in the kit to backdate it ) Other possibilities ate a J82 or a J31 which could be done through a bit of kit bashing! However not everything was recoeded so I think we could justify anything that Berwick had up to the correct NBR route availability. The coaches are already in hand if you look at the "NBR six wheel coaches" thread - using the etches drawn for us by Jamie Guest - one etch is going to have to be hacked in half for the four wheel brake! Correct brake vans are from Dragon models - can be built as the early variant - they also have various wagons for the NBR some of which are early enough. The Parkside three plank and Jubillee wagons are also fine. One thing the book confirms is that hardly any of the stock changed up to the mid 1920s when they acquired two Gresley coaches. In August 1924 the Tweedmouth shed took over running the line. There is a photo on Page 84 of McLeans NBR album which shows an Eyemouth branch mixed train with three coaches and two covered fish Wagons. Despite the motive power being ex NER J21 number 152 ( she is on the to build list!) the train is pretty much the same stock as in the photos from the early period. NER loco - NBR train. Same with infrastructure - photos of the 1950s show the same gas lamps and the same station nameboard. One interesting aspect revealed by the info on the working timetables in the new book is that all but two of the trains per day were mixed. Its therefore more of a shunting layout than a conventional branch terminus. Trains don't just arrive and leave - everything has to be split and reformed - so there can be pretty much continuous movement even with only one engine in steam. I am working out a sequence based on the timetable. There is a surprising amount of NBR stuff out there - so all get looking at those great little branch terminus possibilities around Edinburgh and the Lothians! ( Polton, Penicuick, Haddington, Mussulburgh, Gullane, to name but some, or North Berwick or Corstorphine if you fancy something more ambitious)

Good to see the progress on the 2F. Looks like I have escaped some interesting instructions there! Do you think its essentially the same kit as the one Tony had just with a different label. The kit for a Caley loco I recently built had no provision for a fallplate either - so I had to scratchbuild one using some materials I got from Tonys boxes. I only knew Tony for a short time, but he was a big influence on me, and its nice to be using some of his tools and materials on my workbench, If my models get to anywhere near his standards I will be happy. I am sure it will be a cracking loco when finished - they are very attractive engines. Got to Telford for a brief visit and picked up a lot of stuff for the Eyemouth project, Modelling at standstill at present. Son has moved back home (hopefully temporarily!) As you know our house is not the biggest so modelling room full of his stuff, (guitars, record player, boxes of vinyl, golf clubs...) Cant even get near computer to post as he is using it for work........

I picked up a copy of the new book at Telford Guildex show yesterday. I thought it was excellent. Lots of new info especially about stock and traffic on the line. Suggests as well that the run round loop could have gone as early as 1906. Also got all the parts for the pointwork ordered. Back from holidays now so can get to work helping Sam, and continuing to build the stock.

Well done Sam - good start. We are back from the caravan - but in Whitby next week - will be back after the bank holiday so we can get stuck in. Good to hear you got the clips and dowels.

Good to see the progress across the channel. Are you coming back to "blighty" for Telford?

It was good to see her finished at Doncaster, and she looks even better now she is complete. The livery really suits the design. Would love to see one in LBSCR livery though!

I have used the Halfords Red Oxide primer and then brushpainted over with The Pheonix Precision Caledonian Wagon Red Oxide.

Still debating pick ups - felt that the gap between the wheel and chassis was a bit tight - so might go for wipers, Might give both a try and see which works best. Did any of you eagle eyed experts out there notice I had soldered on the front spacer the wrong way round? - became obvious when I tried the footplate and the holes didn't match. Fortunately able to do some late night de soldering and turn it without it affecting the running of the chassis. Serves me right for adopting a "this is all going so well " attitude!

Further progress today. The bearings were soldered in place. The ones supplied are brass, and have quite a wide shoulder. On testing the chassis there was very little side play, and I don't feel there will be much need to add washers. I then added some other details - the front guard irons, and the lever on the side of the ashpan. The chassis is moving well, and I don't anticipate much more in the way of adjustment. The kit feels accurate and well engineered. As I explained in the previous post, the rear bogie is attached by a separate sub frame. This was put together next, and put to one side as suggested in the instructions. Once again minimal fettling of the parts was needed, everything going together easily. I was on a roll now, so it was on with the bogie. This went together in a conventional manner. Again, the large bearings took quite a bit of heat to get them soldered! The design allows some movement, by 8BA nuts and bolts which are hidden behind the compensation beam. The instructions are very clear on how to fit these, allowing for movement while making a solid unit, taking the builder through through the process step by step. The nuts that take the bolts were soldered to the box on which the bogie pivots by putting a little oil on the threads to stop them soldering up. The bolts were then removed and reinserted through the bogie sides allowing a little play before soldering at the rear. The bogie runs freely, and there is nice external detail on the compensation beams. So far I am thoroughly enjoying this build, especially after the trials and tribulations of the Pickersgill! Perhaps the railway gods of the east are smiling on me for returning having strayed west for so long.

Progress on the G7 has been slow due to other commitments, but its now on the move again. The coupling rods were formed in the usual way by laminating the parts together using wooden pegs and 188 solder. The etched holes fit almost straight away on the dummy axles of the master chassis jig without very little work to open them out. This is in contrast to some of the previous kits I have built. Once happy with these I cut out the frames and other parts to make the basic chassis. The four coupled wheels are on a short chassis, while the trailing bogie is on a sub frame that attaches to the rear of the body. The same approach as the Caley 4-4-0 I built previously, but in reverse. In contrast to the coupling rods, the etched holes in the chassis for the bearings and for plunger pick ups needed a considerable amount of work with reamer and broaches to open them out to the required size. In accordance a note included in the kit the frames were trimmed by 0.75 mill at the front. I would assume that this small error in etching will be rectified in future kits. I next attached the fire box sides. I did take some time to work out how these are bent and folded, using the half etched lines on each side. A photograph that Peter sent with the instructions helped. The frames and spacers were then put together using the master chassis as shown in the photograph. I inserted the bearings and then adding the wheels gave it a quick check on the test track. The wheels and rods turned fine with no obvious binding, although the bearings are not yet soldered in. Despite the success with springing on the last loco, I have returned to a rigid chassis this time. This follows some e mail consultation with Peter, the kits designer. The clearances on this loco are very tight, so I am keeping it simple. The kit includes alternative frames for a sprung chassis, and spacers for scale 7. I also have a kit on the "to build" pile for this locos close relative the G8, and may use a sprung chassis on that loco by way of comparison. Given the clearances, the jury is still out on pick ups. The notches cut in the top of the frame are not specified in the instructions, and have been added by me should I use wipers. . Recently, the Pickersgill had another visit to the paintshop and is now primed, so she is nearing completion. I have also done a few running tests. The tender pick ups are now connected, and adjustment to the springing on the bogie has improved running. The mechanical lubricating gear, which gave me so many headaches is now working fine. Once again, so much turns out to be easier than you think when you just get on with it. So far - so good. Lets get those bearings in!

Fantastic work as usual. Could I ask what you used for the body colour for the NBR Intermediate? I really like the GC locos as well. My great uncle was the regular driver of Butler Henderson when it was allocated to Mexborough shed during WW2.

With the Pickersgill waiting for the paintshop its time for a new project..... NBR Holmes Class L O-4-4T. (LNER G7) As some of you will know if you have been following another thread I have been putting together a rake of NBR six wheel coaches, and its now time to add some appropriate motive power. A Holmes tank, reboilered by Reid - the model will represent No 91, an Edinburgh St Margarents Loco, the last of the class to be withdrawn, and one that kept the distinctive dome with the safety valves right up to the end. The kit is produced by Peter Mullen at 62C models, and while I have used many of his fittings on my other NBR locos this is the first time I have built one of his kits. You can check out a picture of a completed kit on Peters website. The first impression on opening the box is the quality of the contents. The body is in brass and the chassis is in nickle silver, and many of the fittings are in lost wax, rather than white metal. There are brass turned NBR pattern sprung buffers, and even cab glazing. Peter can also supply motors, and Slaters wheels to make the kit a complete package. Alternative parts are provided for making any of the variants. A glance at Yeadons register will show there were variations in domes, safety valves, and steps. The instruction are very comprehensive with clear explanations and diagrams, as well as detailed prototype information. While there are no photographs of the loco, Volume 36 of Yeadons Register, and Part 7 of Locomotives of the LNER will provide a range. First job was blackening the wheels - today being the first opportunity for some time to do tasks that require the garden shed! I took the opportunity to blacken some of the components for the coaches as well. The next job will be the coupling rods. This is an immediate departure from Peter's instructions but as I use a master chassis jig I always start with these. A visit north of the border to the caravan will keep me away from the workbench over Easter, but I am really looking forward to getting on with this build once we return.

It has been some time since an update as I have been working on other projects for the last couple of months. (see my Shez's workbench thread), but I have now picked up on the coaches again. There has been some further work on the brake third, with door handles and glazing added. I am just waiting for some more grab handles from Laurie Griffen to complete the sides. There are then just a few small details and the interior to complete. I have also made a few adjustments to the underframe which means it runs better. Here it is with the completed All First on my newly constructed test track. Both these coaches were built from the test etches and have been very much built "on the fly", making it up as I went along. Given that, I am pleased with the outcome and am sure that in true railway tradition they will serve until better replacements come along! I have now begun an All Third. This will be the first coach I have produced from the etches in their final form, and this time I have a definite build sequence in mind, and all the prototype information I need before I begin. The NBR study group has re released the excellent book on NBR coaches by GWM Sewell which contains a wealth or information. This means that I have begun this time with the underframe. Possessing an accurate drawing means that I can give a much better representation of the underframe and brake gear, within the confines of using the six wheel suspension units from Jim McGeowan. The Westinghouse cylinder is from Laurie Griffen, but everything else has been sourced from the scrap box using bits of etch left over from building locos, and some brass tube from my local art shop, the excellent Calder Graphics in Huddersfield from whom I have got loads of materials. At present nothing is yet fixed down. I envisage this to be a much quicker build with another brake third to follow. I am then looking to use one of the surviving test etches, which had some mistakes, to be cut up into bits to attempt to construct a four wheel brake which were very much part of NBR Branch trains.

Interesting point that Jazz. At Wakefield show I got to do an hours or so stand in operation on a couple of layouts. One was a layout with modern diesels and the other was "Deffors" by Sir Douglas of this parish. Somehow the DCC controller seemed right for the diesel layout, but when it came to the steam age Deffors I thoroughly enjoyed working the manual points, and it had that feeling reflecting the manual control of railways of that period. Switches and levers seemed appropriate somehow. Interested that you say you have had better running from analogue. That would always be my number one priority whatever system. Sound is nice but expensive! Even there I find it more effective with diesels. Saw a lovely layout at one exhibition with period steam locos with sound, - but the sounds didn't fit with the movements of the coupling rods!

I will also follow this with interest. Without doubt my favourite Southern Loco. I like Atlantic's generally. A really good kit for an NBR Reid one would be great. Will it be in the Marsh Umber livery or Southern Green?

Do not worry Sir Douglas - the digital age is not going to reach Ayemouth! Just open minded about it - want to see if the extra expense improves performance in any way - this loco is a good "one off" to try it.

Replaced the brake gear this morning, did some fettling of the front bogie, and added a little more weight. Running seems OK on my short test track. Will see how she performs tomorrow on those reverse curves at Wakefield! Unusually for a 4-4-0 the motor is on the front driver. (recommended in the instructions due to clearance problems.) Does that mean I should compensate with extra ballast over the rear driver? The rear drivers are sprung. Some of the lads at the club are encouraging me to have a go with DCC - so I might look to add a chip as an experiment.

Thanks very much Rob, Help and encouragement is much appreciated. Would hope to get to Leigh, but most probably in morning as HTFC game on that day. Premier League is too stressful - league 2 was much easier! Would be good to catch up.

I have now reached the stage where the Pickersgill is on her running tests and then its a case of putting her to one side to wait for an opportunity for painting - appropriate weather seems a long way away here in the south Pennines. The first remaining job was the cab - this was once again lacking any instructions apart form a very vague sketch. I used a mixture of photographs and guesswork in the end. There were some very nice castings - but the holes in the backhead didn't seem to really correspond to the drawing. There are a few small details to add after painting as there are on the loco generally. Next I turned my attention to the mechanical lubricator on the right hand front driver. I have to thank Sandy here for a picture he sent me so I could get an idea of how the set up worked on his model. I also found instructions for a lubricator in a Jim McGeowan J35 kit, and used this as a basis on which to work. I made use of 16BA bolts to keep the moving parts together. At first there was some binding, but after bending the crank slightly the whole thing works smoothly, and looks effective as the loco moves. At present its not completely secured so it can be removed easily while testing. One problem with the loco is that it does not dismantle easily. The loco has been given some initial test at home, and my plan is to take it down to Wakefiled on Friday to give it a run on the test track. Although I have added some weight I think more will be needed to improve running. For the momemt I have removed the brake gear to help with adjustments. So she is pretty much finished. I would like to thank everyone on here who has responded to my posts and questions, because without you lot I think I might have given up on her. As it is she has built into a handsome loco. Despite the shortcomings of the kit, and the instructions, I would still recommend it to anyone who likes Scottish locos, and experienced modellers will probably find it straightforward enough - not one for a first timer though! She wont probably figure again until after a trip to the Paintshop. As I said on the last post - its time to go back East. The NBR beckons.

Detailing continues, and I have also added the tender pickups which has much improved running. On this side of the loco the pipework along the boiler and the pipework along the footplate was added, using some split pins to represent the fastenings. I also used solder to attach the dome, chimney and safety valve rather than using glue. Another technique I have tried for the first time on this model. You can clearly see the rebuilt firebox in this picture. On the other side the main job was the Westinghouse pump and its associated pipework. For this I relied on photographs, and I have still some work to do here. I used inverted handrail knobs and small pieces of tube soldered on to represent the various joints and valves. I have also completed some of the lubricators. There was no sign of the etches for the two small steps on the front of the smokebox (refered to mistakenly as sandbox in the instructions!) I therefore made these out of a couple of spare lamp iron etches. I mentioned the tool that I got for cutting the pieces of tube accurately - picture below - I would really recommend one of these - made by Expo - its become one of my favourite pieces of kit. There is still some body detail to add, the backhead and the cab fittings. Then the final job will be the mechanical lubricator. it will be then a case of putting the loco to one side for a bit until the weather improves for painting. This has been a somewhat longer excursion to the west coast than I had anticipated, and I am itching to get back East again!

Thanks for the posts. I do have the Ian Futers book - has a 4mm plan for the station with the crossover removed. I do like fish vans! However, the period we are looking at fish was still moved in sheeted open wagons - certainly from small stations such as this. However, if time permits it might also be possible to build some later (or even earlier) stock to run - the actual infrastructure hardly changed. Like the sound of the fish and chips!!