marco demarco

Mick Thanks for your advice. I’d like to think I have a latest one considering I just bought the kit at the weekend! I only had the controller set to CW so that may negate that glitch. I’m also using the supplied lead as I’m wiring up s simple crossover. I will release the motors from the baseboard... I was carefull not to tighten the screws too much, but there may be a chance that this is the issue. I’ll continue with a clear head tomorrow. Probably disconnect the whole lot and start from scratch. See where that gets me! marco

John... Yup, Nigel's point made a lot of sense. The image you posted doesn't accompany the cobalt ss point pack, so thanks for that and your clarification. However, before I could act on the advice and complete the installation, the motors started to behave erratically, as I described above. marco

A more pressing issue has occurred in the meantime... After the layout has been left idol for several minutes the point motors seem to act unpredictably. First it appeared that the motor refused to move, although I could hear it whirring. Further investigation revealed the throw bar had moved in the same direction whenever the switch was activated until it reached the end of its travel along the threaded rod and I can't figure out how to get it back to the centre position. The throw reset button does not do what I expect it to do i.e: centralise the throw bar. The above issue happened a few of times, in between seemingly working fine. Anyone with similar experience or advise, I'd appreciate hearing it!! marco

Nigel... That’s very helpful, thanks. It did cross my mind to do that, however the instructions denote it as a SPDT switch so I didn’t think it would switch polarity. I’ll give it a go! Thanks marco

Thanks for your reply Vecchio. I have other junctions and crossovers wired up using the Seep PM1 motors with built in polarity switches and they work well [considering], but this is the first time I’m using the Cobalt SSs. The supplied “controller” has one frog polarity switch built in for each set of points, but I can’t get my head around wiring ‘two’ opposing frogs. It’s designed specifically to operate two or more points at the same time, but nowhere does it explain how to wire two opposing frogs. Me: Flummoxed marco

I’m just fitting a couple of Cobalt SS point switches onto my layout to control a simple crossover junction and have been stumped on how to wire the frogs. The motors are tested and switch the points well in their respective directions, but now I need to wire up the frogs and can’t think how this is going to work with just the one polarity switch on the controller. With one set of points the frog, when wired up correctly, will switch polarity, but two points from the same connection? I can’t wire two opposing frogs into the same frog switch on the controller, can I! Am I missing something? Any and all help very much appreciated. As always! marco

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but it is in a DCC'd loco... I removed the body shell from my HST dummy car, and in the process managed to disconnect the middle wire from behind the front headlamp assembly. I took the obvious loose end and touched the broken solder and the headlamps flickered. I cleaned up the wire, tinned it and the contact on the assembly [see photo]. However, when I soldered the two together the lights no longer came on and a very audible buzz came from the loco's circuit board. I don't understand what has happened in the time it took me to clean up and tin the relevant contact points. Does anyone have any idea what I may have done, or, indeed, what I need to do to rectify it!? All info and suggestions gratefully received. Thanks marco

This is ultimately what I'm working towards... maybe not exactly, but using this plan as a guide. My layout measures 18 x 10 ft, so I have a little more room to play with compared to this plan. The layout is permanent, but i decided to build the baseboards in sections so if I need/want to move it, I can do so relatively easily. Each board is made up of 18mm MDF on a 2x1 baton frame. 12 boards make up the lower level, joined using split-pin hinges and a large bolt securing them together. This forms a rock solid base elevated on wooden legs with adjustable feet. Boards have been coated with dark grey primer. Being a loft layout it has it's pros and cons... I can only really work on it during the day as once the kids are in bed I can't go knocking about above their heads. This has meant that to get to this stage has taken quite a while, what with work an' all. Deciding on the size of the layout The dimensions of the workable space in the loft measures almost exactly 18 x 10ft, plus a couple of centimetres, so i figured if I measured precisely it would fit like a glove.