K14

Only The Good Die Young - Billy Joel

Fairies Wear Boots - Black Sabbath

Boogie Woogie (Duff 'Em Up) - Ian Dury & the Blockheads.

When I Say Stop, Continue - King Crimson

Useful illustration of a backhead-feed Pannier here:— http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/8680/help-speedy-valve-gear-issues?page=229 Items 8 & 20 are the clacks. See also this photo of 2516:— https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b1/GWR_Dean_Goods_0-6-0_2516_cab_Swindon_Museum_1975_(10197533613).jpg Much the same general position - shoehorned into about the only space available.. As to the leakage claim, I wonder if it was common amongst backhead-feed locos. Stuffing cold water into one of the hottest parts of the boiler must cause a fair bit of thermal shock, and boring extra holes close to a pressed curve that's already full of holes next to a hole-bestrewn riveted seam won't help either. With top feed the water was passed over long sloping trays, which must have reduced thermal shock considerably. The quality of rural water supplies may well have had an effect too. Pete S.

This thread makes mention of it:— http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=18334&sid=36b9a0cfb52607dc2335c8e161f119f0

Source? Rivetting is usually a hot process, which tends not to mix well with timber. I've hoy'd a few planks off ex-GW wagons in my time & have never found a rivet – always been cup-square c/sunk bolts with the nuts on the outside. They usually succumb to an angle grinder & a medium ball-pein adjuster (Cold Chisel optional). Pete S., C&W Dept., GWS Didcot.

Race With The Devil - Gun

Take Me, I'm Yours - Squeeze

I've a suspicion that the lettering was dark brown, based purely on the contrast in the very few close-ups that exist. That said, the smaller 'finger boards' were black on a cream background for later GW, & either cream or 'old gold' on red for early BR. Larry (coachmann) posted some samples he'd done using Bell MT that look pretty good in this thread:– http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/29157-wr-carriage-roof-destination-boards/ You could also experiment with Clarendon Light or possibly Egyptienne or even Cheltenham. Ideally they'd need a bit of a stretch, but the ability to do that will depend on what software you have.

C'mon Everybody - Eddie Cochran

Brand New Cadillac - Vince Taylor & His Playboys

Further reading on the vacuum brake:— Swindon Engineering Society lecture No. 127—“Brakes For Modern Express Passenger Trains,” by C.K. Dumas, read Feb. 22nd 1921. Also by the same author is No. 145—“Brakes For Long Goods Trains,” read Nov 18th 1924. The original 1883 instructions for the GWR Dean brake might be of interest too. The principle is identical, but the cylinder moves rather than the piston. Pete S.

Turning Point - Back Door

Electric Reflections Of War - Frank Marino & Mahogany Rush

Seven Streets - Atomic Rooster

Keeping that theme going... From The Beginning - ELP, Trilogy

One of my Facebook friends 'liked' the Blackham Transfers page, so I thought I'd take a peek . His work looks excellent from what I can see, but his reputation spoils that rather (I also tried his website & frankly wasn't impressed - broken/circular links aplenty). This post from December 2014 caught my eye:— https://www.facebook.com/blackhamtransfers/posts/387770951390791 (You don't have to be a member to view it - if it tells you to 'login to continue' just press Escape). Expand the comments & you'll see his Business Model explained. It would appear that, if you're not a commercial customer, or prepared to pay a 'drop everything' surcharge, then your order goes into his Ironing Pile & gets dealt with as & when. That's fair enough IMO, but frankly he'd be better off either not accepting bespoke orders at all or posting that business model on his website so that the emptor can be well & truly caveat. Pete S.

Why Should I Lend You Mine (When You've Broken Yours Off Already)... - Brand X

Further to Mike's post, here's a shot of Centenary First Diner 9635 as built:— This shows that it had seating for 24 First Class passengers. Thirds sat 8 to a compartment & Firsts sat 6, so the rule for compartment stock is: Thirds — 3/(8 x Number of compartments) Firsts — 1/(6 x Number of compartments) Emergency seating (like the tip-up seats in the van of Trailers) is not included. It looks like the coach in Mike's photo had 4 Firsts & 3 Thirds On the real thing, each number is 1" high with a 3/16" drop shadow, so much respect to Hornby for pulling this off in 4mm. This is the artwork for use on 7371 at Didcot at some point:— 2 x 1st - 4 x 3rd. As far as I can tell from studying photos, the seat allocation numbers came into use sometime during the Lake period - possibly post WW1; if anyone can narrow that date down it'd be much appreciated. Pete S.

Thanks for putting that up. The sponge tip & the idea of using a cheap picture frame are priceless. I'm nicking those!

Sort of... The conventional method is to have a screw adjuster on the end of the handle that limits the degree to which you can pull back the needle. Yours however has an adjuster that works the other way around. The little screw assembly in front of the trigger allows you to preset the needle position before you start spraying - so that you then just push down for air and paint (with the attendant risk that the first thing that will happen is a big splot). The Badger 100 Side-Feed has the same arrangement. The manual has this to say on it:— So basically, you're a bit stuffed there. Two choices - either pick up a bottom feed brush with a tail-stop adjuster or get the hang of a double-action brush. IMO you're better taking the latter approach as it'll pay off in the long run in terms of greater flexibility. There are shedloads of tutorials on YouTube, most of which seem to be either way too advanced for a beginner or badly filmed/scripted (or both). I found this one which covers some of the basic trigger-control techniques:— OK it flashes past in a blur & **at first** probably makes no sense. However, with practice, the strokes discussed within it will help you build 'muscle memory' so that controlling the trigger becomes second nature. If you've got this far you're probably thinking "yeah, but all I want to do is spray a wagon, not paint the ******** Sistine Chapel!" & to some extent you'd be right - if all you want to do is lay down large areas of solid colour, then a pre-set handle gun is all you'll ever need. But... what if you want to accentuate the shadows & highlights on some scenery, or run a line of grot around the back of a downpipe, or waft soot-stains on an overbridge? That's when you'll find that the time spent playing around with Dots, Lines, Daggers & Swirly-Whirlys pays off. Pete.

That looks stunning. I'm not sure that adding mortar will improve matters to be honest, it looks spot on as it is. **Maybe** some moss/lichen on the roof & buttress tops, but there's a danger of gilding the lily.

Quite correct. More here:— http://www.wcpr.org.uk/Carriages.html That low-profile clere deck looks er... 'fun'. A not dissimilar design (but without the clere) was used on the ANDR:— http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/56665-coaches-for-the-alexandra-newport-and-south-wales-docks-railway/

They took a little while to hunt down — not quite "on display at the bottom of a locked filing cabinet stuck in a disused lavatory with a sign on the door saying Beware of the Leopard," but getting there — so here's a direct link to the planning documents:— http://publicaccess.mendip.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=documents&keyVal=ZZZZOYKPXU933 P.