Ben Alder

That improves the tender a good bit - pity it has to be done though....

5 hours ago, Jamie Sutherland said:

Now I might have to resist building the whole fleet 

I had to tell myself to stop at five and the extended one....

Thanks - I have recently done a Mk 11 version of these using a mix of Radial, 6'drivers and a further bashed T9 superstructure and SEF castings to give a far more authentic result. I'm going to update the blog at some time but if you look at the last page or so of my thread  - far North line - there are some images of them. Best of luck with it in N! I'm not au fait with what's available as donors in that scale, and the end result is a bit hefty for a Small Ben, but its better than nothing at all, and did me fine until a better option came along. It is actually a close replica of one of Drummond's drawn up locos that never were authorised so it is a possible passable model.

I use the 3mm Mk3's as seen above on the right - they are less obtrusive than the 4mm version and have a delayed uncoupling action, so are far more versatile. My curves are 24" with one or two yard ones a bit less and I have no problems with them, with the proviso that my stock are all handed so there is a coupling at one end only.

Quick history here-

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supermarine_Seafang

The Sea Fury was a Hawker design.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawker_Sea_Fury

On 26/05/2019 at 18:34, Theo said:

I'm trying to develop a s&w coupling that will fit a nem pocket!

How did you get on with this? I'd be interested to know.

Good to see you aboard!

Yes, better applied before fitting. Hindsight is most useful  

HRMS transfers for BR coaches do these as part of the sheet.

On 06/11/2009 at 05:44, Mikkel said:

Interesting Richard. I did initially consider leaving off the bar at the hook-end, but found that the hook would then be prone to tilt upwards (rather than remaining horizontal) . But maybe you have found a workaround to that?

Thought I'd better get round to replying to this one ... I adjust the hook end position by bending the weighted paddle to suit. Once done it rarely need altering, usually only after a knock, and hasn't been a problem at all.

7 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Thanks Jeff and Michael, I will do that. I have another S&W fitting session coming up so will give it a go then (I seem to remember there was a reason I don't use the mounting plate, but I have forgotten why and it may be a myth created inside my head!).

In the same boat - I used them in my first go at S&W's but gave up on them for some forgotten reason and have managed successfully without them ever since.

The camping coach is available for hire, and is owned by the same person who had and restored Scotscalder station for some years and now runs the Dunrobin station museum. Looks an excellent place for a break..

http://www.scotlandrailholiday.com/

Ingenious idea.

Might be better posting this question in the Skills and Knowledge PW and infrastructure section of the main forum as it will attract a larger readership than here in the blogs.

Ditto - but be aware this can be habit forming!.....

Sorry for not getting back to you - shows how often I check my blog..and replies don't show up on my screen. No, mine is the same and it works fine.

"Finescale track" Is this going to be 4mm? If so you can use the new bullhead version. It's streets ahead of the HO type and British sleeper spacing really sets the scene; you can still use the existing points if necessary - they don't stand out as much as plain track.

Its a final wash over the previous applied layers with the diluted cream to give a mortar effect and to lighten the stonework.

HTH.

It was in my original enamel application days but here it is a coat of umber acrylic- I found that works just as well as the wood stain. Glad you liked the post - seeing how easy it was when AD did it transformed the way I weathered stonework.

My thoughts - I would try and extend the width of the goods shed. I find that low relief rarely works well and getting the shed as a full model will look far better.

You can get 3mm thickness readily. As the fome is sandwiched between card would light manage to degrade the core over the normal life of a railway? I have several prints laminated on fomeboard hanging exposed to daylight, some coming on for twenty years now and have not seen any problems with them.

Seeing this shows you have nothing to worry about by posting here - it is looking great and I hope for some further updates within the next half decade!

Looks like you are going to do my thinking for me!  I don't want to build a learning curve into this project, so the more I can glean about this the better.

Very interesting and useful - thanks for posting. I am about to start a 60' version - had begun preparing the well but am temporarily distracted by another loco build at the moment, so being able to follow this will be helpful. It's not the sort of build you tend to do more than once so sharing the build is most helpful.

Fascinating- absolutely superb! A PDF would be wonderful for those of us lacking such input skills for drawing...