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Everything posted by kevo
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cheers luke i was tring to get a scrub grass type look i built the layers up use ing different mixes of static grasses and random stick on grass tuffs might even add some more bushes later
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My railfreight 20 now has tts sound fitted and is shown here arrive ing with 2 cement tanks . fitting the decoder was a easy job as i had all ready fitted one in the blue 20 i cut of the speaker wires as it was far to large i used a much slimmer speaker i brought on e bay . the railfreight 20 was not a good runner so i have done a chassi swap with the blue 20 the yard is a bit short of space as the box van and flat wagon are block ing the gates which lead to the scap yard beyond . this view shows class 20 ready to depart pair of 20 wait to enter the scrap yard sideings through the gates
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no problem steve i doint mind at all i will be checking out some of those micro layouts you and luke have said about its good to see how other people build there's gives me new ideas
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Luke . if you were think ing of china clay there is a real good micro layout on here TREVANNA DRIES doint know if you have come across it it shows some different types of stock early hoods and later ECC wagons .
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yes luke the amount of different types of freight by rail has got less . fuel oil petroleum still around . thats another one that could be modelled a small depo with tanker unload ing faculties
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HI luke i am a bit of a rubber gauge 'r i think . so building some think to run different types of stock from other places around the world works for me . i might run BR blue for a few nmonths then change to USA or irish . the only tip i could give is the build ings and indurstry if tyou can get that right you are winning . the other thing is of course is that i stick to micro layouts that way i only need a small selection of buildings to pull it all off . some of the little things like road signs that can be removeable small out build ings and road vehicles can all be changed
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HI steve i did weather the blue 08 my self . the blue class 20 was already weathered when i brought it but i will do some of my own on it soon as i get another air brush as mine has had it . the railfreight class 20 is scott pro weathered loco . i really like his work . THE WEATHERING WORKS . i normally like weathering my own stock but as i am just building up my loco stock again i could not resist one of scotts locos .
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thanks luke kind of you to say , its taken me a a bit of time to replace my british stock back up i have mainly only done BR blue but will dabble in some more modern stock as well . class 20's are one of my all time favorite locos . i have two the BR blue & a railfreight one
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Hi all . been some time since i last did a post . well this is partly as my old cement layout nearly got sold . but this have ing not happened i decided to give it a bit of a revamp . and its changed back to UK again . as i had been running american locos and stock . any way i did have a bit a of a gap to fill by the pump house , so i brought a Bachmann silo and re jigged it by lower ing and a bit of cladding added it needs a touch of weather ing to blend in a bit
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have ing shared my o8 tts disaster try ing to fit a stay a live , i made the best out of it by replace ing with a laisdcc 8 pin none sound decoder as i had all ready installed the stay a live in the o8 cab i didnt fancy pulling it a part so i wired it in even if it didnt work nothing to loose . well the 80 ran nice and smooth and silent great i thought . but later on when it got half way across my one and only point on my micro layout it stalled then jerked forwards and backwards till i picked up the loco of the track not sure what caused that ! some sort of surge may be ?
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that is strange to hear . seems hard to understand why they would make a decoder with a function that will not work .
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same thought on that richard i was very glad they were not top notch decoders . thanks 4 the reply's to my groans . i checked out your web site early on . i will certainly keep you in mind when i need work carried out from now on
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Hi Richard yes you are right there , not one of my better days . and slightly wiser after read ing your reply . i think what i did to day has putt me off DIY decoder stuff . there is far more to it than i can take in . but thank you for the tips on zimo or locksound and best left to people in the know like your self . up to this date that is my 3rd tts sound decoder i have wrecked have ing tried fitting them in to different locos that were none sound .
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Big doom and destruction i had a go at installing the lasdcc stay alive in my tts Hornby o8 and yes it fried it . that a teach me . and Hornby havent released the tts o8 sound for replacement yet . talk about live and learn . any way move ing on i have now replaced the tts 8 pin for a the lasdcc 8 pin with stay alive . i have joined up the the blue and black wires from the decoder to the blue and black on stay alive . loco runs nice and smooth now but the stay alive doint seem to work like were you pick up the loco and wheels still turn . any advice on were i have gone wrong with this . please
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Thanks john i took the manual to work with me to day and had a look in my lunch break with a bit of practice i think i will get the hang of it
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Cheers izzy that is jus what i was hope ing to find a pic of were the wires go . i was just about to give up on that . i am not very tech with electrics but i can follow a pic . my next step is to learn how to switch off the DC on the decoder before i start . my PIKO controller dus not have the the functions to alter the CV'S but i have just brought a NCE cab controll any luck after a read of the manual i can sort that out
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thank you rob i will give that another look
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Thanks for the info i did have a look at the Hornby forum but didnt see much only a bit on building your own stay alive i will have another look
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Hi just like to ask has any one tried fitting a stay alive in to a tts sound 08 Hornby shunter its a laisdcc, stay a live with 2 wires blue & black do they go to the same blue and black on the decoder ? any advice please . kevin
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Well one good thing i have to say is this weather is good for spraying if thats the only thing its been to dam hot for me . so with a weeks leave from work i have at last got to a top coat on my loco . one of the hold ups was what color . it was a choice between a faded light blue or olive green in the end the mrs decided i should do green . i was pleased with the over all rust coat on its own may be i could have left it . but i did want to try a blister ing flake ing paint effect . it still needs some work tone ing the shades etc
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Hi Luke its not as hard as it looks really . best way is to have a practise on a old loco or car lorry etc . its know ing when to stop is the problem .there are so many different ways to weather models its just finding what works for you .
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after the base coat was dry being left over nite . I could now start on the rust effect . all I use is some artist acylic paints of different rust tones stippled on with old cheap brushes they end up looking like chimmny sweeps brush . when I have covered one section at a time . the next stage is to use artist chalks again tones of brown yellow orange etc are stippled in to the still wet paint the chalks blend it all together till I get the look I am after it can look like I have totally wrecked the loco now but the next stage should bring it back this will be with the salt tech or hair spray and a top coat of my chosen colour .