aardvark

Thanks to everyone for the "likes" on yesterday's post: all well appreciated and encouraging. Despite the slow progress, and there being plenty enough mistakes made, I'm happy enough with this first effort, . Hopefully I can learn from the mistakes. In the meanwhilst, I tackled slating the half of the bothy roof that may be least visible (although arguably all roof sections are equally visible). I'm reasonably happy with this too (the light coloured bar on the right is a trick of the light, marking the end of the roof). My process, borrowed from the Scalescenes roof construction thread, was to cut the strips lengthways only, colour the lower edge, and to apply glue stick to several strips at once on both paper and card before releasing each strip from the sheet and positioning. I will trim the strips and attempt cutting between the tiles, but this will wait until tomorrow. ScaleScenes slates have an in-built colour variation, which you can make out in the photo. The modeller is extolled to keep the strips in their original order. Perhaps they would also be laid with the correct registration, something which I never gave a thought to. Next time, perhaps, although this is not too too awful. I'm wondering about how to tackle slating the shed roofs, which are longer than a single ScaleScenes sheet. I'll need two sheets, obviously, and will need to cut the ends of the strips neatly at slate edges rather than hacking them off as here. I'm not sure whether to cut one end neatly, colour, then glue. I wonder whether gluing both the card and paper is really necessary.

To-be-renumbered 80121 teasingly pokes her tail out of one end of the Banff loco shed ... ... and her nose out of the other. The next activity will be slate roof tiles as mentioned above, but I stopped for a moment for a photo opportunity. I suspect that I may be the slowest of modellers, but in scratch-building something, I now have a new found admiration for all those who do.

Thanks. I suspect that the long cut edges, which become the bottom edges of the slates, should be coloured. Nice work there westerhamstation. Did you restore those pictures just for me? 🥰 I have a plan re: saggage. Please see my earlier post from July 31. Only time will tell whether this is sufficient. Errg! I feel your pain. I imagine a few choice words were uttered. @Graham T talks about making withdrawals from the profanium. I am using an artists fixative over professionally laser-printed sheets, which should solve this particular problem. I had thoughts that it would also add UV protection, but on recent reading of the can, find that there is no mention thereof. 🤔 In independent research, I went and checked ScaleScenes R024 Weighbridge/Coal Office kit, which has 3.9mm tiles to be laid on a 3.3mm pitch. There, the guidelines on the roof base do suggest that the bottom strip of tiles would hang off the edge of the base, even if only by a little, although there is no explicit mention of this in the instructions. Chamferring the bottom edge of the roof base also seems like a good idea. I also located the Scalescenes roof construction thread. Therein, the esteemed (at least by me) @Chubber suggests cutting between the slates after the strips have been glued onto the base and the glue has dried. Surprisingly, there is even some non-missing photos! This tip is billiant, and I wish I could give Chubber's post a "craftsmanship/clever" or even a "round of applause", but the thread is archived, and so beyond my reach. Apart from anything else, if does suggest that such cutting could be done in phases, when the enthusiasm is available. In the same thread @Fen End Pit provides a number of his own tips, including to apply glue to multiple slate strips at once before they are completely separated from their parent sheet. So much to learn, so few remaining brain cells to learn it with 🤯.

Assembly of the engine shed continues, and I am eyeing off construction of the roof, which I will attempt with ScaleScenes TX18a Slate Roof Tiles, which are 4mm wide with a 3mm recommended pitch (i.e. 1mm overlap between rows). With that, I have two more beginner questions for any passing experienced modellers: 1. Should I cut between the slates? I don't think I want to go as far as cutting individual slates for gluing, but I recall that enthusiastic modellers cut partway through the tile strip in order to add texture to the roof. It seems like a lot of work. If I were to do that, would I need to colour all the cut edges? 2. The roof will be 1mm card plus the ScaleScenes guideline sheet. Should the first strip of tiles be aligned with the edge of the card, or should they overhang 1mm, which might help disguise the thinkness of the card? That is, is should the top edge of the first strip of tiles be 3 or 4mm from the card edge?

That's brilliant! Can I get it as a 1000 piece jigsaw? And a cup?

If the Far North line is of interest to you, then I'd most high recommend The Far North Line. Highly inspirational. Regrettably, it has lost many of its images in The Great Crash, but if you skip to the end you'll get a feeling of what is missing. Best of luck: I'll be following to see where this goes.

Most interesting and useful: I see from your photos that your stay-alive is just an F-ing* big electrolytic capacitor. I should have twigged early, but didn't. Electrolytics are standard components and can be bought relatively cheaply through electronics stores. * F-ing is not a thinly-disguised swear word, as F is the internationally recognised abbreviation for Farad, the unit of capacitance.

"I'm screaming at a white sheepdog" ?

So, does that mean I'm making a model of a model? "Prototype for everything" means there had to be one somewhere. Today: me starting to glue together the engine shed: 😁. Me realising I've stuck the walls on in the wrong order: 🤬.

Dearest Aunt Dahlia: "Fascia"? You continental types know all the clever tricks. I must order myself un pacquet. Merci buttercup. Aardy.

The only one I recall is two cows sitting on a sofa with the phone ringing. One says "there it goes again and here are we without opposable thumbs." Or something like that.

Back in February, I discovered a 1928 photo from BritainFromAbove showing the mysterious north side of the goods shed to have 2 doors and 3 windows. You can imagine how excited I was. I've only just discovered a 1960's photo from RCTS appearing to show that one of the doors and the middle window have been removed. OK, well I found it interesting. 🤔 Good thing I haven't made the goods shed yet. 😉

Hello Graham: It's edging towards spring in the southern hemisphere, and a young old man's thoughts turn to guttering, and I am considering a purchase from Modelu to attempt to replicate your own successes. Please Sir, I'm trying to decide whether you attached your guttering to the wall of your signalbox, or to the lip of the roof. Prototypically, the roof would be the correct answer, but your picture makes it look square to the wall, as it should be, so I'm a bit confuzzled as to how it is managed, Yours sincerely (etc, etc).

I discovered this:

They can, based on just a 1cm square colour chip. The chances of getting a reliable colour from an aging photo is close to zero, whilst modern restored heritage properties have bright and shiny paintwork that would not be appropriate. All I need is to wind up my time machine ... Hardware stores can often tint colours solely from the colour name, although they have a limited database of manufacturers. It doesn't have to be a current colour.

"I'm going to put this somewhere safe" is an ancient incantation that opens a portal to a random point in another timeline, through which all safely kept things travel, never to be seen again.

The engine shed progresses, but now I need to pick a colour to paint the bothy door, since this needs to be painted before the both y can be assembled, before ... Well, you get the picture. stationcolours.info helpful tells me that LNER colours, which Banff continued to have through to it's closure, were Buckingham Green (BS381C 225) and Deep Cream (BS381C 353), and suggests Tamiya flat green with a touch of white for faded green, and Phoenix Precision S.R. Buildings Cream. Phoenix Paints are not available in Australia, and Tamiya (and any other model paint) is not available in under an hours drive. I'm hoping to get the local hardware store to tint some testers pots of colours that are available. So: Dulux Australia Blade Green and Dulux Australia Garden Picket There's no denying that I'm truly awful with colours, so if these don't look right, please speak up before I go annoying the local hardware store folk.

I went and looked it because I didn't know either: I believe one is a brake handle, and the other the water pick-up handle.

Mrs Aardvark has a woofer. There is a selection of tweeters outside.

Some hair dryers have concentrator nozzles, although I haven't found that necessary. Mine is 2000W.

Hair dryer.

That's very good modelling. I aspire. BTW: did you know that Chuffnell Regis is an anagram of Cheerful Flings? https://new.wordsmith.org/anagram/anagram.cgi?anagram=Chuffnellregis&language=english

It's a virus.

Too late ...