aardvark

I didn't know we exported.

They run up the vacuum cleaner hose and ride off on the motorcycle?

Yes, I wish I could use something just to support a local business.

If you draw the rectangle using the rectangle tool: no. If you draw the rectangle using four lines: yes. Sadly, there's no way to convert a drawn rectangle into four lines. At least not with the free version of Silhouette Studio.

Well blow me down and other expressions of surprise. Just now, I cut 20thou plasticard with a C4 and a 3mm Kraft blade in just 2 cuts: Smart Cuts enabled Cut Order Setting set to No Sort (Advanced Setting) horizontal lines in one colour, vertical lines in another, etc blade depth = 5,6 with speed=1, passes=1, force=1 It's easy when you (finally) know how 🙃 One thing to be aware of is just how much higher the force is with carriage #2. For carriage #1, the max force is 210gf, or about 6.4gf/step. With carriage #2, the max force is 5,000gf, or 152gf/step. So force=1 for carriage #2 is similar to force=23 for carriage #1.

If a drummer comes out of retirement, will there be repercussions?

Never get tired of seeing your craftsmanship.

On the outside ... or the inside?

Congratulations on page 200!

I'm sorry - what's that? I wasn't listening.

Less likely to bust a cap, more likely to bust a blood vessel.

A strip on the underside of the seam between the two roof halves?

Please Sirs, I need more help. The "standard" construction for roofs is to put in a ceiling and building a supporting structure above that to support the roof, thereby avoiding (excessive) sagging. This is as described by Paul Bason in his book Scratch-Built Buildings (BRM). I'll follow this approach for the diminutive bothy at the back of the engine shed, but the shed itself has rail doors at both ends whose tops are higher than the tops of the walls, so a ceiling doesn't seem possible. I expect that this might be a common situation for model engine sheds. Prototypically, there would have been trusses, but I am loathed to model that as I expect them to be fiddly to make and they won't be visible anyway. I'm thinking that the roof surface will be 1mm screenboard, with a second 1mm sub-roof layer fitted within the confines of the walls to stiffen things up a bit. The two halves of the roof (4 pieces of card) will be joined and re-inforced by triangles of 5mm foamboard, I'll probably have to make a jig to help with assembly. I won't need a removable roof as the shed as a whole will be removable from the layout, so the roof structure would be attached to the walls via triangles attached to the end walls and glue along the tops of the 3mm front and back walls. Here's a diagram to show what I mean with half the roof removed for clarity. Any counter suggestions would be most welcome, even derision. Or just "agree" if you think that this should work.

Sounds like a good name for a porter.

... and is beginning to look like something.

That's smashing, Graham. I'm thinking the neighbour could be a bit Hyacinth Bucket, and not abide a messy garden. Expanse of manicured grass, carefully crafted roses around the edge.

Lucky you. I was taken to a musical as a "treat".

Thanks Kevin and @Nick C. The product seems vaguely familiar, but I had forgotten, so your reminder, photo and recommendations are very much appreciated. Seeing the photo, I do wonder how identifiable individual items are from their roofs, but I suppose you come to know where everything is. Sort of. The Australian version also has Torri Laser products, but without the storage box. Unfortunately, everything OO has to come from the UK: indigenous model railways are HO. There used to be Auscision HO storage trays, but these seem to be out of production, and were probably too small in any case. A 7-slot OO Torri Laser tray comes for £4.70/carriage (inc postage), a KR 10-slot TW00S is about the same, while a Feldherr 11-slot DSLB075 is slightly cheaper at £4.20/carriage. I don't blame the postage - these are bulky items, compared to a loco, say. Which is why I'm considering making my own. Being an unemployed semi-retiree, I have the time, although it might be argued that making storage trays will detract from my modelling time.

Construction of the engine shed continues. However ... I've been thinking about storage trays for my rolling stock. The driving force is that my layout is stored away, and comes out for playing test runnings and scenic work. If I add the time it takes to set it up and tear it down to the time it takes to get the rolling stock out of the manufacturer's boxes and put it away again, then it can be quite a chunk of time without actually doing anything. I like the look of the products from Trainsporters, although they're expensive and shipping to Australia would probably be ridiculous. I'm also aware of products from Feldherr and Torri Laser, but I'm wondering about making some wooden trays that would fit into a standard plastic stackable storage box. The trays would be suitably partition and foam-padded. I'm appreciate any thoughts or experiences anyone passer-by might have. There is also the choice of whether to store rolling stock vertically or horizontally. Initially, I thought vertical, but now I'm not so sure.

It's said that Expectation is the mother of Resentment. In my case, Expectation is also the mother of my children.

Ummm ... looks like the hinged post is on the left of the rail, the right of the road. Or did miss something?

I only believe 12.5% of the Bible. I guess that makes me an eighth-theist.

That's a really nice sign. Just wondering: will you have a cameo of an adjacent wagon being unloaded with the door propped up?

There is definitely a learning curve with using the Silhouette, something which not appeal to everyone. And there are times when it doesn't do much for me either. Take the following: For the life of me, I couldn't figure out why there were so many Smart Cuts on the blue lines. After a fair bit of head scratching and checked that the lines hadn't been rotated or mirrored, I deleted and redrew them all. Fixed. I still have no idea what happened there. On happier news, it occurred to me that it is possible to control where the Smart Cuts get placed when using No Sort mode. Take this design, with an inappropriately placed Smart Cut. The machine cuts the back-most line first, working it's way forward. So, you can add a short line in an out-of-the-way place, make sure it's the correct colour and orientation as the problematic Smart Cut, send it to the back, and problem fixed.