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Well, that turned out to be more 'interesting' than even I expected, based on the number of responses to your photo. I must admit that I too use 'load spreaders' between the 'weights' and the objects being glued. However, latterly I was using a plethora of 'map pins' to hold the track down to the foam underlay whilst it was gluing. I found it was easier to keep the track in the desired alignment while the glue set if I could 'see' the track. Covering in weights made this a bit hit-n-miss. Ian

Now that is / was a very good idea. I'll have to add it to my 'tips and hints' file! Ian

Paul, But the objects / weights used to hold the track/turnouts in position are often 'interesting'. There's also the question of how said objects are 'balanced' on the track. Ian

Overbridge Fence One element of the Overbridge that I was missing is the fence that 'delineates' the station car park / forecourt from the main road. It runs along the side of the pavement. I fortunately found a suitable fence on TheBay at https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303761936364 (just a satisfied customer) that was reasonably priced and also had the right 'look'. Here's what a short length of the fence looks like once it's been cut from the A4 sheet: I had to modify it slightly to add a 'top rail' of quite a thickness as, in reality, the fence should look like this: To achieve this, I cut some strips from the 'carrier' paper that came surrounding the fence, and glued them to the top of the fence. I also cut a narrower strip of 1mm card to beef it up. I used several lengths to get the full length I needed, glued together. It was then airbrushed in a suitable red colour. To install it on the layout I just drilled some 1.6mm holes into the pavement (cardboard) and through to the supporting plywood. The fence was then gently inserted into the holes; no glue required. This means the fence can be removed if necessary. Here's the fence installed on the Overbridge: The 'bollards' at the ends are just some offcuts from round plastic stirrers, again installed by drilling into the surface and press-fitting them into the holes. Ian

Which 'color' did you get; #80066? That seems to be closest to a Lima wheelset in all dimensions. Do let us know how you get on. Ian

I too have had a couple work themselves loose. However, since they are all located under baseboards they are accessible. I found that it's best to insert them into the timber by tightening a bolt into/onto them. Hammering them in is not as good, and probably leads to them loosening. They can't come loose when tightened, as the bolt is 'pulling' them into the timber. That's certainly the 'executive' option. As I mentioned, I went with the 'economy' method of a steel sleeved hole. I do use a battery powered drill to loosen/tighten them, but have not had any problems. Mind you, my Bosch drill is probably not up the 'power' of a Makita! Ian

I did a pretty wide search on t'internet to coral photos of Burton-on-Trent, so I shouldn't be surprised to have found yours. We clearly model the same period (early/mid 1970s), so I hope you find my layout musings enlightening and/or useful. I was at the Mantle Lane open day the following year! As you are interested in 56036, he's one of my photos from that open day in 1979: Ian

I can't prove you right or wrong, but Brexit was January 2020, and I placed 5 orders with AliExpress through 2021 that came through without any issues. Now, maybe something's happened since then (?) but I don't have information. Ian

Given the wide variety of planned applications, you need a Kadee 'system' that is adaptable. I'd suggest Kadee #5 with associated draft box #232. That's probably the cheaper option, given that you can get 10 & 20-packs. The only issue / problem is that you can end up with the draft box 'exposed' (sticking out) from the bufferbeam to correctly align the coupling with the face of the buffers. To alleviate the problem above, you could use Kadee #156 with associated draft box #242. The coupler is 'long', and so you'll find the draft box set back behind the bufferbeam out-of-the-way. In both cases, you can adjust the height of the coupler by inserting 'shims' between the draft box and the body of the wagon (but you can only adjust 'downwards', obviously). To 'raise' a coupling, you'd have to cut away some of the wagon underframe. I always screw my Kadee draft boxes to the wagon, as this is a reversible process (just in case). I use self-tapping "No.0 Phillips Pan-Head Self-Tappers x 9.5mm lg" from Model Fixings. Hope this helps. Ian

Does that mean you need a bolt connection for each wire? For a simple single bus (2 wires) I can see how it works, but I have 6 bus wires in places (12 wires). Ian

I can vividly remember the smell of hops floating across station street when I was a child. Pity I didn't 'bottle' some for later in life ... Nice photos, although I'd already added them to my 'collection' some while back, while I was in the layout planning phase. I really do like the 'blue loco' period of BR, but I expect that's because it was 'normal' to me back then. Ian

Overbridge Support# Columns # Except that they don't. They are only 'representations' to give the desired effect Having successfully made the overbridge 'structure' sit correctly onto the baseboard, I set about the necessary survey, measurement, and setting-out works to establish the correct positions of the support columns to the overbridge. With the overbridge 'out of the way', access to the baseboard and platform is easy, if a bit of a stretch. Actually, I just climb onto the baseboards! Thankfully, my baseboard support framework is substantial enough to take my weight. Here you can see the positions marked out and drilled. There are 4 rows of 4 columns: Measurements had to take into account the relationship to the 'openings' in the walls of the overbridge, offset from the platform edge, and the 'clearance envelope' of trains. I found that my largest 'end throw' is my Class 45s, but 'centre throw' I took from some Mk2d coaches. The holes were drilled out to 5.5mm (in steps of 2mm, 4mm, 5mm, then 5.5mm) through the baseboard (between the tracks) and through the platform (those on the platform). This gives me 9mm and 18mm respectively to 'embed' the column and glue into position. Here's the holes a bit clearer, with some 5.5mm diameter styrene tubing in position at one of the columns: Hopefully, these columns will create the 'illusion' of the real thing. Ian

Whilst I'd never say that the method I employed is the 'best', it is cheap and easy to implement. However, you'd need to 'thicken' up your 6mm end plywood to something nearer 18mm. All I did was: Clamp the baseboards in correct alignment. Drill 2 holes through the ends, gradually increasing the size from 6mm to ~9.6mm (just under 10mm). In one baseboard insert 8mm 'tee' nuts (available from ScrewFix, ToolStation, etc) In the other baseboard insert a ~18mm lengths of 10mm diameter tubing, inside diameter 8mm (this I cut off a 1m length I bought at B&Q) Insert an 8mm diameter bolt (length to suit; I used 70mm & 50mm) Using the bolt head, tighten the bolt into the 'tee' nut. This will help 'push' both the nut and tube into the respective wooden ends of the baseboard. Here's a few photos to explain / clarify: Components: Assembled, 'tee' nut side: Assembled, bolt side (I also put in a large washer to spread the load a bit): Because the bolt is a 'snug' fit in the steel tube, the baseboards re-align themselves as you tighten them up. All the parts are cheap and easily available. Well, it worked for me. Ian

Ah, that's what happens when you crop a trackwork layout ... As you can probably guess, it's a lot more complicated than that. Here is the 'full' storage sidings approach tracks: That track off to the bottom-left, simply runs around the Lower Level. It was used to 'play trains' before the Ramps and the Upper Level were built. Ian

Have you considered using AliExpress? I've ordered a reasonable number of times from there without any issues. Yes, it takes longer to be received (~2-weeks ish) but the prices 'can' be much less. Here's one from AliExpress that might be acceptable: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001243767835.htmll Dimensions as follows: The dimensions aren't 'exactly' the same as Lima wheels, but the length is about right. The wheels are ~1mm smaller in diameter. Not sure about the back-to-back though. It might need 'tweaking'. But at £7.32 (£14.55 normally) for 24 axles, the price is very compelling. There are plenty of other 'sellers' on AliExpress with similar wheels. It's just a case of deciding which one(s) best match Lima wheelsets, with an acceptable price. I also have an extensive 'fleet' of Lima coaches / wagons, but am using Code-100 so the pizza cutters do run without issue. However, I'm also seriously considering retrofitting 'proper' wheels. Ian

John, I had the same issue on my layout. My 'solution' was to use small radius electrofrog turnouts (diverging angle 12-deg) and introduce short curves between them (turned angle 6-deg). This 'sort of' makes a curved turnout, but takes up a little less space, can be customised (by lengthening / shortening the curves), and is cheaper (important one that). More importantly, it meant that the turnout angle was effectively increased to 18-deg. So here is my storage sidings turnout fan: The baseboard at the corner is 900x900mm, and the tightest curve is 572mm (3rd radius?). Yes, it's not as 'elegant' as using curved turnouts, but that didn't matter to me for 'storage sidings'. It was more a case of function over form. Ian

Robin, I found this photo I took of the whole LED tape roll being powered by my 'car boot' power supply: As you can see, the power supply is just a generic 12v 2amp DC Adapter; in my case made by iWantit. Ian

Robin, My 'ramps' are 1in40 (2.5%) and 1in48 (2.0%). If I could, I'd have made both 2% but space and layout configuration made that impossible. My Bachmann / Heljan locos have no problems with 8-coaches, but the old Lima / Hornby locos (rubber tyres) do struggle with any more than about 5-coaches. You might be able to get 6-coaches on a 2% gradient. The 'trick' here is to keep the gradient as constant as you can. Changes in gradient just cause haulage problems. Wiring is not as bad as you think it is. In reality, you are just providing +ve and -ve to the rails (yes, I know DCC is an AC power, but it's easier to think of it as DC). The trick is to make sure you power ALL the rails, and (separately) ALL the turnouts, and that you don't mix up +ve and -ve. I stuck rigidly to black (-ve) and red (+ve) wires with the 'back to black' mantra (the rail closest to the 'back, ie walls, is black). I have all electrofrog points (the insulfrog ones I installed, I 'converted' to electrofrog) and each turnout is separately powered. The frog of the turnout is powered (always a green wire) via a microswitch (actuated by the servo operating the switches). I installed all the wiring on individual baseboards, and did a 'short circuit' test on all the rails before that baseboard was placed on the layout. That quickly found any mistakes I'd made, and there were quite a few! You'll also need to install some 'bus' wires (twin wire cable) from which you can 'tap off' the power on each baseboard. I installed these around the 'inside' face of each baseboard, where they'd be nice and accessible. I have separate 'bus wires' for track power (for each 'district'), lighting (Upper Level only), and for my MegaPoints controller boards (used to operate/control the turnouts). In some places I have 6 separate bus wires! The only other 'advice' I'd add, is to 'split' the layout power into areas or 'districts'. I have my Lower Level in 2 'districts' (Up & Down tracks), the Ramps each have their own 'district', and the Upper Level has 4 'districts' (Up track, Down track, Depot tracks, and Brewery Tracks). This is done so that any 'short' in one 'district' doesn't affect any other 'district. Without 'districts', it's a real pain to have the whole layout come to a 'stop' because you trailed an incorrectly set turnout (or any other reason). Plus, it can be hard to locate the offending 'short'. Each 'district' has it's own 'short circuit' detector to cut the power to that district, thus isolating the problem to that 'district'. I'll try and send some more 'detailed' information (with photos and diagrams) later. The wiring is 'neat' because I spent quite some time 'planning' the wiring before I committed to actual wiring (I drew it all out first, baseboard by baseboard). By the time I reached the Upper Level, I could do the wiring just as neatly without any prior planning! All the wiring is labelled as well, to make troubleshooting as easy as possible. There is no soldering of wires under the baseboards (except for the microswitches), it's all done with plugs and pins. I didn't fancy soldering upside-down to repair things. Again, I'll try to send some more 'detailed' information (with photos and diagrams) later. I realised that I only needed lighting shining in the direction I'm looking, and so installed it facing 'into' the layout. Yes, so more could have been installed, but here's a couple of photos taken of the Lower Level with the room lights turned off. It's plenty to be able to 'see': Those 2 'sloped' baseboards you can see at the back are my Ramps. They are supported off the baseboard support framework with simple metal angle-brackets to keep the Lower Level baseboards 'free' of supports. Yes, the ramp baseboards can be un-bolted and lifted out too. As I said, my 'driver' is just a 12v 1amp power supply (probably from an old router or laptop) that I picked up at a car boot for £1. As I can reach the power-strip where all the sockets are plugged in, I can easily turn the lights on/off. I do actually have some 'dimmer' circuits, but I couldn't see the point of using one to light the Lower Level. All my 'scenic' bits will be on the Upper Level. The lighting to the Lower Level is purely to let me 'see' what's doing on (or not going on!). I know the feeling. I had my flu jab a couple of weekends ago, and it 'hit' me the following day. However, I'd recovered by the second day. Ian

I had something similar happen to me (I use NCE PowerCab). Turned out to be a Lais decoder that only used 2-bit addressing, so the ID was limited to up to 127. When I tried to set it to 8101 (Class 20 loco ...) I'd get a different number, less than 128. I swapped the decoder and all was well. Ian

Withdrawn as W34778 in 10/1968. Became DB975538 on 06/1976. With thanks to the Hugh Longworth book! Ian

You gave me a case of deja-vu with those photos! My layout is also 2 Levels, connected by a pair (up and down) of ramps, again to avoid a helix. Here are a few photos: Lower Level baseboards complete: Upper level baseboards complete: You'll note that the Upper level baseboards incorporate the 'ends' of the ramps (to the right, and the 'tunnel' opening top-left). The Upper level thus falls ~100mm to allow it to loop under itself. The only major difference to yours is that I made my baseboards 'removeable'. They are bolted together, but rely on gravity to keep them on the support structure. I did this to maintain some form of access to the lower level, just-in-case. As many have also mentioned, I went with simple self-adhesive 12v white LED strip bought off TheBay in 5m rolls. You can get a roll for less than £5. I bought 2-rolls (10m) for my layout, but only needed a single roll in the end. I found that a single strip on the near underside of the Upper Level baseboards, shining towards the 'back' was adequate. Here's a photo of the underside of one of my Upper Level baseboards. You can see the LED tape installed along the lower edge: Here's a better close up of a different baseboard: The LED tape is jumpered together with wire on each baseboard, and these are then connected to an LED Power Bus running around the underside of all the Upper Level baseboards. The LEDs are therefore essentially wired in series to form a single circuit. The LED 'power bus' is powered by a single 12v 2amp power supply I bought at a local car boot. I went with 350mm (although because the Upper Level has a fall in it, this drops to ~250mm) as a compromise to a) keep the Upper Level at a sensible height; b) provide 600mm clear 'crawl space' under the Lower Baseboards, and c) to limit the ramp gradients. I had the same problem. My solution was to replace the ~1500 lumens LED bulb I had with an Osram 17w 2450 lumens LED. Robert Dyas sells them, although I'm sure they must be available elsewhere. This is way brighter and, with the white walls to reflect the light, is enough to avoid bad shadows. The combination of the large ceiling LED and the under baseboard LEDs give plenty of lighting to the layout. Ian

That's a great photo (the 2nd one). It just looks like it's been pouring with rain. Really atmospheric. Ian

Have you considered the option of re-filling the old cartridge with original (or compatible) inks? For ~10-years I used to refill the ink cartridges on my Canon MX-868 because Canon don't sell the replacement cartridges in this country (the machine was bought in Taiwan). I used Canon's own ink, from large bottles at reasonable cost. I had to buy a 'chip resetter' for the cartridges though, as this is required to make the printer 'think' that the ink cartridge is full again. It wasn't expensive (<£10), but I had to get it from AliExpress. Ian

In which case, try Switch Electronics (they are also on eBay), where £3 is more than enough: https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/pages/search-results-page?q=dpdt switch on off on I've found them to be very reliable supplier, with prompt delivery. Ian (just a satisfied customer)

Paul, But they were cheap ... I did plan to check photos, as the positions of 'any' drainage (and there may not be any) is sure to be affected by the fact that the whole overbridge is elevated. There is not that much overburden / ground in which to place said items and associated pipework. As I'm modelling the 'mid-70s', I can at least argue that replacement hadn't happened yet ... Ian