JST

It's all about operation. When you are running six sound locos at the same time, clicking on one button is quicker and easier than two.

I have been trying to search for (without success) some details of the above. In particular a list of the sound functions and specifically the horn function. I don’t like separate high and low horns and prefer high/low on one function. Does anyone here have one of the latest factory sound fitted models and if so what are your views on it? Thanks

Already in lockdown here in France - I will be spending most of it in my railway room!

Just tried my Class 08 with and ESU stay alive in it on my Heljan turntable - works fine with no sound loss.

Yes, I saw that. I am hoping they have upped their game since then but I will check.

I am watching with interest the videos of the helix Charlie Bishop is building at Chadwick model railways. Worth a look.

Rails say next week (woohoo!) but mine is pre-ordered with Hattons so wait and see! I have ordered the sound fitted version so hope it is half decent. I will use it to run "specials" to Fernhead!

Like WIMorrison I have fitted them but don't really know if they work. What I do know, is that since fitting them I don't get problems with some locos "running away" that I did before. I have surmised that the signal has been somehow stabilised.

Zimos will work fine for stopping at the station but only the more expensive ones will "shuttle". Lenz or DCC Concepts are a starting point for looking at ABC units. They are about a tenner each. If you have never come across this before here is a helpful video:-

I run a layout that is a bit bigger than that on a 4 amp supply but... I have another 4 amps running the accessories (point decoders etc.) so another vote for the accessory bus. I don't know what decoders you use and whether they have an ABC braking facility but with a layout like this, I would set up ABC braking zones in all the terminus platform tracks. This reduces your chances of crashing into buffers when trying to control four trains on an end to end layout. I have done this with my branch line and now can leave my auto coach /Pannier or bubblecar trundling to and fro all day in shuttle mode. But like I said, you have to have decoders capable of doing this. Needs thinking about before laying track.

Dungrange is quite correct in his assumptions. You can also cut the continuity strips so, for example, a 4 connector strip could become 2 red and2 black. I love them!

I solder dropper wires to the bus but for other stuff I use these:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Qishare-Position-Terminal-Postions-Insulated/dp/B076BHZRW2/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0?crid=23SZJMXIWK3RZ&cv_ct_cx=qishare%2Bterminal%2Bblock&dchild=1&keywords=qishare%2Bterminal%2Bblock&pd_rd_i=B07TYBZ4NW&pd_rd_r=926fa42a-e955-4b15-896a-4d30a737140b&pd_rd_w=yUahe&pd_rd_wg=2GC13&pf_rd_p=280fa6e7-40ce-4865-8824-cc1b177907e2&pf_rd_r=RS6XJVFBX24BX5B9ZJ81&qid=1602599689&sprefix=qishare%2Caps%2C158&sr=1-1-5a42e879-3844-4142-9c14-e77fe027c877&th=1 They come in various sizes and ratings. I find them a lot easier than choc blocks.

I use DCC Concepts ADSX accessory decoders for my crossovers. They have frog power outputs which are easy enough to figure out but if the frog polarity is wrong or the points do not change the same way, just swap the wires to the decoder round. A word of warning with these decoders - always power them down as per the instructions before swapping wires. Giving both decoder ports the same address changes the points together. One decoder port will easily operate two point solenoids but will only power one frog as they have to be opposite ways round (don't forget the insulated track joiners on all frog joints!). Another option would be to use a single decoder (like a Gaugemaster unit) to work both points and use DCC80 frog juicers.

Thanks. I will give it a try.

Only just read this but if it makes you feel any better my Wraysbury Hall also has a tender that will randomly derail itself. I haven’t found out why yet but I think it is either a back to back issue or the loco draw bar. Meantime it sits in the loco shed yard looking pretty!

I have converted several old split chassis Bachmann locos with great success. As has been said, they need to be good DC runners first and doing a stall test is worth it to assess the amps requirement. On my Lord Nelson and N class I needed to grind a bit off the chassis to make room for the decoder.

Interesting, I didn’t know you could reset a Hornby accessory decoder. Must be a RTFM fail. I have one that has gone down to 2 ports and is generally being a pain so will give resetting a try.

Bit late with this but as I was brought up in Exeter I will put in a shout for the Alphington branch and the Exeter basins branch. Rural but slightly industrial. Lots of good pictures here: http://www.cornwallrailwaysociety.org.uk/exeter-city-basin.html

I do it via Railmaster and a Hornby Elite.

I have a few own my layout and as suggested above I have removed the motors as a fail safe method. The beauty of doing it this way is you can still use them on double headers or in true to life fashion, drag then round the loco depot with the shed pilot.

If your decoder is one of the newer ones it will be fine with an 8ohm speaker. However, you may find you will get less volume.

This is a bit long and basic but about half way through it tells you all you need to know. Cheers John

Hi. I have been round this block and wound up just buying Zimo chips. I have a 64xx pannier and it runs superbly with a Zimo decoder. I am not that far from you (in rural French terms!) at 86400 Lizant so if you fancy trying them on a different set up you are welcome to come round.

Agree with Pete the Planner. You first need to check the frog polarity.

I agree with the point about droppers on each bit of track although, if the fiddle yard is not in view, it does not need to be "pretty so you could always solder jump wires round the joiners.