Right Away

With regards to using a magnifier, I am unable to offer advice, but the following information might be useful in the interim as your eye adjusts after the surgery.

I well remember the initial difficulty after surgery when a new intra- ocular lens was implanted for “normal” distance. My existing glasses were varifocal. (astigmatism correction was not available on NHS prescription intra-ocular lenses at that time.) I even resorted to removing the spectacle lens but it did get some odd looks! After the requisite six seeks, an eye test resulted in a new set of spectacle lenses, one for the “new” eye and one for that which had not been operated on. After that things were fine. Four months later the other eye had its cataract removed and so I underwent the same palaver. I still wear varifocal glasses for closer viewing as both eyes are effectively now “long sighted” and also for astigmatism correction.

PS When my wife required cataract surgery 2 years ago, both eyes were operated on, on the same day so she never had the initial issue of mismatched spectacle lenses.

Our hobby continues to come in for much debate over the rising costs of products.

However… as far as percentage increases go, the email received today from Ring (video doorbell) informing of a hike in their subscription from £3.49/month to £4.99/month was an eye opener. There must be something dreadfully amiss with their current business model for their need to impose such a huge, 30% rise. Some will say another £1.50/month will probably hurt few, but there is principle at play here.

We can live in hope that such a drastic pricing change won’t find itself encroaching on the model railway market to the same degree.

11 hours ago, doilum said:

Was your nice shiny coal anthracite? Being brought up in the heart of Area 8 I was surprised when I first encountered this “ foreign “ coal. The families of miners could identify which seam a particular lump had come from by the colour and dust. When I needed real coal for a working model I went for the anthracite as it is relatively clean to handle. The grey is spot on.

I’ve no idea of the source or if it was anthracite, being already supplied in relatively small (1cm) pieces when I received it. I did find that on breaking it into smaller sizes, the resultant “new” faces were very shiny.

As a child, coal was taken for granted, it could be seen in many locations; domestic coal bunkers, fireplaces, spilled on roads, when the “coalie” took a corner too fast! And of course in railway premises, yards, locomotives, wagons. But trying to remember what it actually looked like is another thing altogether.

Next to colour photos, scrutiny of the imported stuff on the next visit to a Heritage railway could be useful - a souvenir or three!

Great photo showing exactly what I was trying to achieve, and oh, a Fairburn to boot! Thanks Chris.

Having decided a few years ago, that all my steam locomotives should carry “real” coal in their tenders/bunkers, I duly obtained some, crushed it for use and was quite pleased with the result.

Nevertheless, I had determined that something was either wrong or indeed missing with the effect. 
 

Fast forward to a couple of days ago and whilst perusing a book and glimpsing some photos taken of a steam MPD from a high viewpoint (from where many models are viewed), It finally struck home - my coal was “too” black and shiny

I’m no expert on coal dug from the various mines throughout the country, be it from the Northern coalfields to those in South Wales, Somerset or Kent but one thing appears the same in colour photos of steam locomotives - it is generally of a varying matt grey colour. This could be due to the way light is reflected back at the viewer or from exposure to the elements.

I experimented with mixing Lifecolor’s “Worn Dirty Black” with “Roof Dirt” acrylic paint and gently dabbed it in drybrush fashion over the coal. It was important not to soak the coal as this would wash out the PVA with which it is fixed and it does destroy the effect.

Please see attached photo below of two engines with the same coal, the one on the left having been treated as above, the other unpainted.

New documentary series, showing pilot episode of the Shoreham-by-Sea to Horsham line.

See link below and the following link to YouTube.

https://www.visithorsham.co.uk/horsham-news/new-documentary-unearths-downs-links-lost-railway?fbclid=IwAR0eJc7VLloXEh9NnaOdrEq0HAqmX1Rm11W92Njxc8LAkOrnJBfN2ueEhkU

12 hours ago, Right Away said:

Ten years ago, I found myself in a similar albeit, reverse situation, deciding to part with a considerable collection of continental N gauge items as I was resurrecting 00. This was as a result of ageing eyesight and dexterity making it increasingly difficult to appreciate working in the smaller scale. There was no initial urgency to “get rid”; just that each selling would go towards the British outline 00 railway which was being developed.

 

I decided to check Ebay, noting the price and condition of items similar to those I wished to sell, as guidance. 

Around five items of rolling stock were put up for auction just to “test the water” and all were sold at a very respectable price. Eventually, by selling in batches, the whole was sold over a few months.

 

Advice for selling:

1. Ensure title of each item is concise and includes manufacturer’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.

2. Photograph each item from all angles (4 clear photos per item is usually enough), ensuring any damage or blemish is visible to the viewer.

3. Also photograph item standing on its box where possible - box condition can sometimes clinch a deal and protects item in transit.

     NOTE: I used an SLR on a tripod, using small aperture to maximise depth of field, A black card was used as a backdrop.

4. Ensure the title of the sale includes the manufacture’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.

5. Describe each item as accurately as possible, denoting condition, any detailing or weathering. (I initially feared that weathered items migh  be rejected, but was surprised when buyers asked if more were available!).

6. Accept payment by PayPal only.  

7. When selling in batches, ensure the bidding “finish time” of each item is separated by 5 minutes or more in order that potential buyers may bid and stand the chance of getting more than one item.

Good luck.

 

*** NOTE***

For clarity, when I speak of selling in batches, a “batch” would denote a number of items  with EACH ITEM OF A BATCH BEING OFFERED INDIVIDUALLY, BUT POSTED ON THE DAY. I never meant to suggest selling a batch of items as one transaction or “job lot” as it were.

Apologies.

9 hours ago, RFS said:

And if you're thinking of recreating it with Bachmann's 73082, then you can forget all about 107 mph. Mine will barely do 60 mph due to the very low gearing!

Purely on a personal note, having a terminus to fiddle yard (effectively end to end) layout representing a much “condensed” yet operable, imaginative mile or so of line in 00, the priority is for trains to move away smoothly and very slowly from rest and to come to a very gentle stop in a similar fashion.

Trains never attain high speeds and are restrained by decoder configuration, the emphasis being towards lower speed working.

Would I run fast trains at authentic speeds if space permitted?

You bet! 

Ten years ago, I found myself in a similar albeit, reverse situation, deciding to part with a considerable collection of continental N gauge items as I was resurrecting 00. This was as a result of ageing eyesight and dexterity making it increasingly difficult to appreciate working in the smaller scale. There was no initial urgency to “get rid”; just that each selling would go towards the British outline 00 railway which was being developed.

I decided to check Ebay, noting the price and condition of items similar to those I wished to sell, as guidance. 

Around five items of rolling stock were put up for auction just to “test the water” and all were sold at a very respectable price. Eventually, by selling in batches, the whole was sold over a few months.

Advice for selling:

1. Ensure title of each item is concise and includes manufacturer’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.

2. Photograph each item from all angles (4 clear photos per item is usually enough), ensuring any damage or blemish is visible to the viewer.

3. Also photograph item standing on its box where possible - box condition can sometimes clinch a deal and protects item in transit.

     NOTE: I used an SLR on a tripod, using small aperture to maximise depth of field, A black card was used as a backdrop.

4. Ensure the title of the sale includes the manufacture’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.

5. Describe each item as accurately as possible, denoting condition, any detailing or weathering. (I initially feared that weathered items migh  be rejected, but was surprised when buyers asked if more were available!).

6. Accept payment by PayPal only.  

7. When selling in batches, ensure the bidding “finish time” of each item is separated by 5 minutes or more in order that potential buyers may bid and stand the chance of getting more than one item.

Good luck.

This topic might lend itself to establishing, out of interest, in tabulated form, the maximum authenticated speeds attained by each steam locomotive class, where possible, during their everyday service on Britain’s railways. 

Any takers?

Not familiar with this particular model but often the method to be used is to prise the bodysides out about a millimetre and wedge with a credit card. Prise along further, near the other clips and slide another card in place. Often just sliding this second card along will free the body. Repeat the process on the other side.

Slightly off-topic, but for the sake of interest, I can remember for a short time having to use the crossing (occupation or accommodation?) next to a private airstrip next to the large Lec Refrigeration premises on the outskirts of Bognor Regis, Sussex; this would have been in the early ‘Eighties. 

A lineside telephone was provided from which one had to advise the signalman (Bognor or Barnham?) of the type and numbers of vehicle(s) (ours were 32 tonners) and receive permission to open the gates. Once granted, the nearest gate was swung back, followed by the farther gate before entering the crossing. This was to ensure the movement was made without stopping and obstructing the line whilst the second gate was opened. Once clear of the crossing, the lorry driver would close both gates and advise the signalman accordingly.

Regardless, there was always that feeling, however unfounded, of vulnerability as one first eased the lorry cab onto the crossing; perhaps there were still echoes of Hixon.

It is very disappointing (not the least for the owners) to continue to read of this derailing/bogie issue of the EFE “Booster” locomotives. Clearly, not all models are affected and of those that are, it is to varying degrees, as portrayed by the responses and photo/video evidence posted on this forum.

Many have ventured to investigate the cause(s) of this problem, with a view to effecting a solution themselves. These efforts are most admirable and in some cases the results have been productive in resolving the issue.

Since the date of release from retailers, albeit only a month, considering the number of affected models reported in this time, it would be heartening to hear EXACTLY what the manufacture has discovered from those that have been returned, e.g. warping, tolerance issues etc. 

Could the bogie structure actually benefit from a redesign?

As an owner of this model which fortunately has not portrayed (so far) a tendency to derail on Code 75 trackwork, I would still relish an explanation as to the cause and remedy as a result of any manufacture’s investigation - just in case!

13 hours ago, bécasse said:

I would have said that the norm was for both footplatemen to be upright, the fireman of near necessity, the driver because he got a better view of the road ahead (and, having once been a fireman, was used to habitually standing on a footplate). The seats would typically only be used when the train was at a stand and there were no immediate tasks to be done.

…. not forgetting that once moving, especially with certain “high mileage” locomotives, the unremitting jarring, emanating from play in driving boxes/horns and side rods. This would be transmitted through the cab floor and to any semblance of a “seat” and thus to the softer parts of a driver’s anatomy. 

Not familiar with the Imperium decoder but accessing CV29, setting bit 2 to1 is the NMRA setting for enabling DC operation. This is generally a default setting on many decoders.

FYI. The Lenz 21 pin Silver decoder, initially fitted to my D1 could not be made to effect a really smooth start from rest, regardless of how much config adjustment was made; always leaping from standstill to around a scale 4 mph. Not wishing to part with getting on for 40 odd quid for a different 21 pin decoder, I hard-wired a spare Zimo 8 wire (originally £20) and, as always, the starts are gentle.

Sure, it’s negated the convenience of the “slide in” decoder arrangement but that’s more than compensated for by watching those big drivers ease away from rest.

Perhaps the gearing ratio of these models might have been better matched to the size of the driving wheels.

4 hours ago, Ruston said:

On the waste tip at Blacker Lane D. P.

Nicely posed photo and stunning weathering. The angle really conveys pure grunt as the blade driver gives her the “beans”; can almost taste that exhaust.

Yet another image to evoke memories of yesterday’s plant and haulage, 

On 25/01/2024 at 23:55, Jon Horrocks said:

Just to update on my original post, I’ve had a replacement SR green one arrive which is perfect. The BR green one had to go back to Bachmann as the retailer had sold out. However, within a week I had it posted out to me, tested and running fine. Having checked it myself all seems perfect with this one too. I’ve no idea if the quick turnaround at Bachmann was because they had spare models to replace it with or whether it’s been mended. I’ve no idea if it’s been fixed or replaced!  I’m happy it’s been sorted though. I’m not that practical and to my mind I shouldn’t have to be filing, bending or shimming something I’ve purchased new, especially at current prices. 

Good to hear that you finally have a model that runs satisfactorily.

It would be extremely useful to know what process Bachmann have used to effect this result, if indeed it is the original model.

1 hour ago, LBRJ said:

2 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

That takes me back to being about ten years old when those Ergomatic cabbed AECs and Leyland lorries were becoming a rare sight, they rusted like mad I remember. Not seen one in years.

One suspects that the two points here may be connected 😉

Last one I had was a Leyland Bison with Fuller “Range-Change” box; that would have been around 1983. 

As you say, it really depends on how visible the respective parts are.

This D1 has just had it motion and running gear subdued whilst the body was off. Airbrush weathering will follow once the temperatures warm up a bit! (Cropped screenshot from an iPhone video clip taken to record slow running characteristics following decoder programming). 

Nice job.

If I may, perhaps a little toning down of the red to represent oil, ash and maybe a dash of metal to accompany the weathering around the running plate.

As a follow up and for those for whom it might be of interest, I’ve attached some piccies of the Dapol D1 “exposed” as it were, prior to the hard wiring of a Zimo MX600R decoder.

Firstly, remove the decoder interface plug-in board before removal of the locomotive’s body.

Body is secured with just two screws - see photo; the body coming away cleanly.

As always, it is essential to identify all wiring with a meter before embarking on disconnection of the Next18 interface gear. 

Note: On my example, the top and bottom motor feed wire colours were reversed (not in itself an issue as if this were missed it can be corrected by a change of CV29, bit 0=1). 

Also, the orange motor wire was very closer in hue to red, so be sure to tag this and the black motor wire with a tiny strip of tape for identification.

The firebox LED wires are Red, Black and Yellow, again be wary of the first two.

6 hours ago, RFS said:

 

Is it an MX638D or MX634D? I believe you just need to convert an MX634D into an MX634C by storing the value 3 into CV8. This should make the lights work. Maybe the same for an MX638D.

 

I don't understand why the lights have to be on F3 and F4. What was wrong with F1 and F2 which are not used in this model? It would then have meant any 4-function decoder would work fine. Instead it means you need a 6-function decoder for the cab lights to work. 

Follow up. Changing CV8 to 3 has indeed worked on the Zimo MX638D. F3 and F4 control cab lights in “A” end and “B” end respectively.

Now that they’re working, I shall have to see if the brightness can be lowered; looks like Blackpool on a Saturday night in there!

Thanks again, Robert. 

1 hour ago, Gwiwer said:

20001 has had its pickup shoes fitted and looks a lot more “used” than it did this morning. 
 

The shoes don’t clip onto the lugs as they should. The holes designed to clip over the lugs need careful reaming out with the pointy end of a round file. I found that easier while they were still on the sprue. They are then fixed with a spot of adhesive rather than clipping on. 
 

I have yet to fit buffer-beam details and I intend to change the headcode in due course but for now this loco - which ran well on test - is looking like this 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20002 remains in the naughty corner. I’ll take her back to the club test track in the week and see if a couple of tiny modifications cure the derailing. 

Good to see, an electric loco without a chromium plated pantograph. That had to be my first mod once it had been tested, chipped and run in. Weathering to follow, when temperatures rise a bit!

Thanks RFS, it’s definitely a MX638D, the “budget” 21 pin decoder which I believe maybe now have been discontinued for some reason ….. perhaps not expensive enough!

I will try that CV8 setting.

17 hours ago, amdaley said:

Question for anyone running one of these on DCC ?

I can switch on the headlights but I can't switch on the cab lights from my NCE Power Cab.

Anyone have this problem ?

I can switch the cab lights on & off with the wand but not from the handset ?

Same here, with a Zimo MX638D.

Although, not overly worried (too cold), when I have time, I’ll have a fiddle with the config and get back once happy. That is, unless a member can relate the relevant settings for this function.