Right Away

I’ve no experience of the Hornby Rebuilt MNs, but you state yours is not one of the DCC ready (later) versions; could there be a possible issue with the chassis conducting?

Just a thought.

Further to this topic, does any member know if there was an actual threshold of dimensions specified by BR (LMR), above which, any locomotive would be barred from operating under the energised 25kV catenary south of Crewe? Would it have been a simple “the tallest height of any part of a locomotive from rail head must not exceed  a certain amount” or a rather more specific directive?.

Note: A Stanier 5MT with standard LMS chimney having a maximum height of 12’ 8” was permitted, whilst an 8F with 12’ 10” height, was barred. 

In addition, what directive pertained to the operation of “foreign” locomotives “under the wires” and were any such directives ever transgressed?

11 hours ago, JSpencer said:

….

 

 

 

 

“Three EFE assembly staff on vacation in UK succumb to the wrath of modeller dressed as railway employee.”

             Seriously though, thanks for your detailed workaround. Hopefully we’ll all get there in the end.

1 hour ago, Southern Hobbit said:

Exactly the same problem here, affecting the BR Green version. The 'nearside' wheels 2 and 3 on both bogies were sitting around 0.5mm above the rails, resulting in derailments on a variety of Peco Code 75 points (as others have reported, this is the only loco that derails). I have sent it back for repair, as feel that the mods are just masking an underlying problem.

It often follows that the ratio of satisfied customers to those of whom are having issues with a product/service, the former are sometimes less likely to relate (not bother) on their positive experiences, whereas, the latter will more readily and understandably expostulate on any grievance.

Once the current (no pun) orders for the EFE “Booster” have all been received, it would be interesting to note exactly the scale of the problem of poor wheel alignment which is bringing so much furore. One could hope that it is a “one-off” issue, affecting a minority of examples but the seeds of doubt have been sown. 

I have to say, I am extremely satisfied with my electric loco; looks good, runs sweetly and stays on the road, but I would be certain to resist the purchase of a further release until this problem is addressed.

9 hours ago, NIK said:

Hi,

 

What's a Zimo standard decoder?.

 

Regards

 

Nik

I have fitted my electric loco with a Zimo MX638D which was “borrowed” from a steam locomotive, that latter subsequently being hard wired with a MX600R. Like many other Zimo “budget” non-sound decoders, the MX638D no longer appears available, their only “economical”offering  being the MX600R (8 wires) a really smooth chip, so long as you don’t require sound.

Wish I’d stocked up on the 638 and 617 types whilst they were available, it would appear that the “sound” market could be taking precedence regarding decoders.

2 hours ago, rembrow said:

Like most powered bogies, the wheelsets sit in a box where the gearset is positioned. The box is in two parts, the upper part has the gears and slots to hold the wheelsets and a lower part that is a push fit to allow for maintenance. The lower part also has the bogie sideframes as part of its moulding. The lower part is held by 6 clips, two on each side and one each on the ends. This needs to be removed.

As some pressure is needed I would advise that the body is removed to avoid damage to the pantograph. Also suggest working on a wide flat surface, as one or more wheelsets are likely to jump out, so need to be close to a work surface. Start by using a pronged file or similar to release the clip at one end, the clip is over a raised moulding on the upper part. Then gently pull the lower part and it should release along it's length.

Each wheelset has two pick ups, the front and rear wheels have long pick ups that are bent towards the wheels at a point about half way along. So part is flush to the sideframe and you need to avoid bending that away, so I held the pick up at the bend point, with a needle file, so that the adjustment happened at the point of the bend.

Thank you very much indeed, this reply is most welcome.

At present I have just two wipers which do not reach the wheels on “full side deflection” and does not affect running, but your very useful descriptive information will be invaluable when it finally becomes necessary to adjust more pick ups.

On 10/01/2024 at 13:36, rembrow said:

I was just about to post an issue I've found with mine, that maybe affecting your model. I have found two issues with the bogies and wheelsets.

1. Several power pick up wipers didn't travel to the full extent of the side to side movement. These can be adjusted by dropping the cosmetic sideframes and lifting out the wheelsets. ….

 

Could you describe the process for removing just the wheels - this is for wiper adjustment only.

Many thanks.

15 hours ago, Graham_Muz said:

 

They are designed as a push fit and if needed pushing out from the inside with the tip of a small screwdriver should work.

When replacing note that the side sides are handed with a sloping underside to take account of the shape of the cab front at the sides. 

Thank you Graham.

Apparently the model’s route disc/lamps are designed to be a “push fit” to enable interchangeability.

Not one of those, factory installed on either end of my version (#20002) is refusing to budge; what on earth was used to push them in? It’s as if they’ve had a dab of adhesive..

The circular profile allows no purchase at all with tweezers etc. Even a delicate touch with the tip of a scalpel has proved unsuccessful. Gripping with point nosed pliers would seem rather risky on such delicate items. Looking from inside and gently pushing outwards with the tip of a cocktail stick has no effect.

The cab fronts are very well modelled and to effect even slight damage by the slip of a tool just for the sake of changing a route indication is not to be welcomed.

Has any other owner had a similar issue and perhaps found a way of getting these blighters out?
 

In all other respects, the model runs perfectly and judging by some members’ less than ideal experiences, for that I am thankful. For this reason alone and the fact that it would appear, at present, difficult to effect a replacement #20002 I would be reluctant  to return to retailer. 

Bottom line solution: paint over existing white discs where not required - NOT IDEAL!

9 hours ago, Metropolitan said:

I don't suppose you can remember what they sounded like? I'm guessing that they made an awful din and sounded quite unlike a silky modern EMU as we might imagine?

From what I remember of the class, up close, in the late 50’s/early 60’s, there was a continuous drone whilst stationary from within (booster equipment). On pulling away, this was accompanied by a low groan rising slowly in pitch (traction motors) much the same as those of a PUL/PAN motor coach. 

On one occasion at Haywards Heath, an UP “boat” announced its approach by its EE’s lovely chime whistle which seemed to me in complete contrast to the thumping it gave pointwork! As far as “electric sounds” went, the businesslike humming was quickly lost to the sound of coach wheels as the train passed through the platforms.

(Note: Somewhere in the house, is a B&W photo of this event which I took on cheapo Gratispool film.)

The news of Hatton’s closure of business is very sad and a possible “wake-up call”, not just to other retailers but to us customers alike.

Like many, I have enjoyed peerless service from Hattons over the years, indeed as I have from all the model retailers I have done business with.

That’s it, just to say, “THANK YOU, HATTONS”

15 hours ago, Metropolitan said:

 …. More of the oddities please!

Easy; it has to be 20003. 

On 08/01/2024 at 10:20, Fitzwilliam Basin said:

Here's a few shots of my 09 layout Fitzwilliam Basin.

 

On 08/01/2024 at 10:20, Fitzwilliam Basin said:

Here's a few shots of my 09 layout Fitzwilliam Basin.

 

This has such tremendous depth and perspective, combined with a sense of bustling activity. Wonderful!

I am not familiar with ESU. However, regarding the initial starting and having just Lenz and Zimo (non-sound) decoders, regardless of how much tweaking, there are certain Lenz fitted locomotives that simply cannot be made to creep away from rest, but swapping to a Zimo chip instantly transforms the performance in this respect. 

Anyone have any tips when opening one up yet for decoder fitting?

There’s always much useful advice from our skilled members when confronted with an entirely new model, rather than relying on instruction sheets alone. In some cases, instructions containing caveats like e.g. “gently” and “carefully”, tend to instil a sense of trepidation as one awaits the sound of cracking plastic!

I start off with filler. Once hardened, this is followed with a sprinkling in random areas of fine ballast mixed with crushed coal for texture, fixed with diluted PVA and concentrated in some places to represent the results of fire/smokebox cleaning where there’s no ash pit. When this has set, acrylic paints, varying from a very light grey to a dark soot are stippled over the lot. Please see pic

On 30/12/2023 at 10:33, phil gollin said:

.

 

I hope that they sell well (mine are, hopefully, on their way)  -  If so, I really would a new run, with the BR Green (without a yellow panel) numbered 20001 (not 20002).

 

There, that's my New Year's wish  !

 

.

It very often occurs that when an existing model is re-released with a new identity (and usually with a correspondingly higher price), earlier releases that remain are available at their original cost or in some cases with an attractive discount. This can be a very tempting proposition for those willing to renumber; in the case of the Bulleid/Raworth electric locos, that would take very little work.

Hi John.

The book is Bradford Barton publication entitled “Southern Steam Locomotive Survey - Bullied Light Pacifics, page 59.

Your father’s caption denotes that the engine, waiting at Exeter Central was working the 1.10 p.m. stopper to Salisbury on 9th September 1963. (There is some reference to the power classification).

Happy New Year

Double pendantic …. hopefully not, but the power classification carried by the “Light” Pacifics in later BR livery was 7P 5FA; the “A” denoting that the braking force for unfitted freight was inferior to that which would be considered “normal” for a 5F rated engine.

See attached photo scans, the original photo of 34070 was taken by your father!

15 hours ago, Ben B said:

 

Back at Spon Lane again and their 'pet' Ruston 48DS, immaculately clean and ex-works, ticks-over on the bridge outside A-shop on a foggy Autumnal afternoon.

Atmospheric?  You can almost taste the exhaust fumes mingling with all that fug!

According to reference details, the main visual differences between the two classes, pertinent to modellers would be: 

• Class D1 - Coupling rods: plain section,  Coupled wheel dia: 6’  8”,  Coupled wheelbase: 9’  0”, Bogie wheel dia: 3’  7”.
• Class E1 - Coupling rods: “fluted”, Coupled wheel dia: 6’  6”,  Coupled wheelbase: 9’  6”, Bogie wheel dia: 3’  6”.
• Class D1 had boilers fitted with side feed from their date of rebuilding (new).

Not troubled with derailments as a rule as the main track (00) was laid several years ago on 3mm cork on 9mm plywood, but those that have occurred have been the following:

• Leading bogie wheel of certain steam locomotives have risen over rail head at a particular location where others (of the same class) are unaffected. This has been corrected by: wheel back to back adjustment / ensuring front cosmetic coupling does not foul bogie frame / ensure tender drawbar does not bind at the pivot which tends to keep the ensemble “in line” preventing the bogie from following the track / adjustment of vertical tension  of bogie - where possible. It’s all a bit trial and error.
• Some coach “close coupling” mechanisms have been found to bind and impede the swing of bogie pivot - check for flashing etc.

15 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

……, Not sure why their would be a need to hard wire a Next 18 as any lead fitted decoder (8 pin for example) can be used.

The original query specifically relates to the feasibility of hard-wiring a non-Next18 decoder, with particular emphasis on accessibility.

The engines to which I have had recourse in the past to hard wire have been equipped with either Lenz 10231-02 or Zimo MX600R decoders, (with, of course, the 8 pin plugs removed). It would be to similar measures that I would look, should I have the misfortune to effect a repair on a Dapol Next 18 equipped loco.

Thank you for mentioning your experiences as it does go some way to vindicate my initial scepticism. 

5 hours ago, KingEdwardII said:

To me, this all looks like a pile of hard work for very little gain. It seems like a solution looking for a problem.

 

I have a Dapol Manor - and I got a Next 18 decoder and slid it into place using Dapol's mechanism. Simple and straightforward...

 

Yours, Mike.

In the original posting it will be remembered that information was sought regarding access to the innards of the particular Dapol engines as little has been available elsewhere.

Never a pessimist forever looking for problems, but being capable of effecting repairs SHOULD  they arise, it is assistance of the kind that Harlequin (above) has provided that is very much appreciated.

Of course, it is hoped that this information will never be required on a forthcoming purchase of a Dapol steam locomotive - but one can never be certain.

I can only offer a suggestion for 4mm Springside lamps.

If the lamp irons are thin enough, I drill a small (approx 0.5 - 0.75mm) hole in base of lamp to a depth of 2mm, being especially careful not to dislodge lamp lens. With a cocktail stick, add a tiny dab of Tacky Wax over hole and place on lamp iron. 

If lamp iron is to large (older models) just use the Tacky Wax on the base and the side (GWR) or back (others) of lamp and place in position.