Right Away

Thanks Rich Works fine on tablet but not in Safari on iPhone. Original pages used to load on iPhone but for some reason the Web Archive page doesn't load fully.

Not sure where to post this, but here goes... Anyone look at the excellent David Heys railway web pages? My bookmark now brings up something completely different. Entering the address manually has the same result. Any ideas????

Thank you so much for hour suggestions. I'll make an executive decision on the loco's future when it warms up a bit and can do the "messy" work outdoors.

I have acquired a Hornby T9 4-4-0 which is not the best of runners; possibly needs a replacement motor mounting - Mazak issue? The loco and tender body had apparently received a coat of Johnson's Klear floor polish and on top of that has been weathered with Acrylic paint! Would any member be conversant with a method which would remove all this tack, yet leave the original paintwork, lining, numbers and crests intact and unblemished. I know it's a tall order and were it not for the lining, I would probably try and respray the whole ensemble. I had considered another loco and tender body from an online seller, but what with the running issue to be resolved, it could be "beyond economical repair". Failing all this, the existing weathering could possibly be "enhanced" somewhat and the model utilsed as a withdrawn example quietly rusting away.

Would you mean the code 60 conductor rail, used in association with code 75 running rails? If so, I can confirm that my Hornby BIL and HAL stock have no problem with this arrangement using the Peco pots. HOWEVER, I must stress that I have no Bachmann or Hornby EP stock and therefore cannot say whether there is sufficient clearance for their shoegear.

The one and only ........

Another very useful goods vehicle, well done Hornby. From a detailing point of view, does any member know if any of these carried a through vacuum connection in their later lives?

Often, new ballast requires weathering itself, unless you're aiming to replicate fresh PW work. A weathered approach after ballasting could solve your original paint issue.

Isn't it a fact that many useful commodities have to come from so far away.It's also frustrating to find regardless of filtering item locations to those of Blighty before purchase, the package sometimes still has to find its way over thousands of miles. Armchair shopping, we can't always do without it?

Ensure your baseboards are fixed with metal dowels and bolts etc for precise alignment. Fix the track securely in its final position and solder two copper clad sleepers in place of the originals each side of the baseboard join. Finally cut across the rail over the baseboard joint with a Dremel or similar. DON'T FORGET to cut a slot through the copper surface beforehand to isolate between rails.

Not certain it was classified "Halt" as I can find no photographs showing a running in board, but the erstwhile Devil's Dyke branch in Sussex was worked by Sentinal railcars and tank locomotives before its closure.

I take my hat off to the modellers who have the ability to automate many operations in their projects; we have some extremely clever people within our fraternity and all credit must go to them. Modern advances have revolutionised many aspects of our lives. Within our topic, who could have ever foreseen the tremendous flexibility that DCC has brought to the hobby? However, for many, the rate of modern progress produces one steep learning curve after another to surmount. It can just sometimes appear that many technological innovations to which we are continuously confronted in life have been developed just "because they can".

Phil, I took it as a given that by using the word "laid" it would signify the track actual being fixed. My sentences might not be in the ideal order. However, I appreciate that my reasoning might not be so obvious to others and your comment is welcome; we're all here to help each other. Regards

Not sure if this has been mentioned before but there was a TV documentary a good few years ago pertaining to collisions on some notorious open "grade" crossings in the USA. Studies undertaken revealed how long it took a delayed road user to make irrational and dangerous decisions; so many seconds before becoming irritated, a few more seconds to start becoming annoyed to finally casting all sense of reason aside and taking a possibly fatal risk, ignoring all warnings and driving over the railroad track. My late father related some of his experiences when AHBs were first introduced in rural locations in Sussex when motorists had come precariously close to being wrapped around his buffers on several occasions. Time has marched on. The pace of modern living appears to consume more and more hours of the day which in turn has a cumulative effect on people's daily schedules. It is no excuse for endangering others.

If regular portability is required I would suggest two x 4' boards resting on 4x home made trestles. Align the boards with metal dowels, and secure with a 2x nut and bolts. Depending on preference you could use hinges instead of bolts but as other members have said, scenery and buildings etc have to be considered. When track position is finalised and laid, cut through the rails at the joint with a Dremel or similar. Remove a couple of sleepers each side of the joint and solder copper clad strip to the rails in their place. Before fixing, cut through the copper each side to isolate each rail. Drill small holes in the new copper sleepers and fix to board.

I seem to recall a post mentioning the need to shorten the length of the pins slightly on a Zimo decoder when fitted to certain locomotives. Could there be contact with a protuding pin in your situation? I have a 617N waiting to go in a "P" class tank when the weather warms up a bit; having previously used the erstwhile 622, it will be interesting to compare performance and reliability with its successor.

Whether or not there has been some inter rivalry shenanigans, the old Hornby Terrier could possibly have given the manufacturer a head start with the new tooling, hence the lower price. Southern modellers in recent years have been quite fortunate in the small engine area. Perhaps Hornby might have considered a completely new venture, maybe a D tank, C2X or a K mogul (but the latter would possibly be a logical step forward for Bachmann following on from their Atlantics.) Whatever, duplicated models can appear to be a somewhat lost opportunity for sales and a little frustrating for modellers eager to see what new projects are on the horizon.

Very good points, all noted and now on the "to do" list. Thank you.

Thank you for your kind comments.Also for not pointing out the conductor rail adjacent to the SS should be in the 6' for safety reasons or at the very least have protector boards...ouch! The third rail was laid before the substation location was chosen. Another job perhaps, for later.

Having not found any prototypical design information of SR substations, I elected to do my own research. A couple of years ago I photographed Willingdon SS (near Eastbourne) for details of its HT rafts, breakers, etc and the brick built rectifier building at the Portslade SS. Using Google Earth, I was able to scale acceptable dimensions by comparison with known objects and vehicles (buses) and together with the photographs I produced the results below using mainly Plasticard/Plastruct and wire. I was unable to photograph an oil cooled transformer myself and so this was scratch built using photos from books. Close scrutiny will show I have yet to provide LT cables from the transformer to the building .... one day perhaps! Maybe these pics will be of some use.

Has any member ever had issues with returning a faulty locomotive which has been weathered whilst under warranty? A couple of years ago I had cause to return a model steam locomotive whose mechanism went faulty after about 10-11 months of purchase. The engine in question had received light weathering both on the body and running gear (a body only swap was ruled out). In that instance I was pleasantly surprised to find that the retailer exchanged it with a new one by return of post. My procedure with new models is that only after I am satisfied with it's operation and performance by running-in on DC that I fit a decoder and attach accessories eg pipes, footsteps etc. The model will then receive its chosen degree of weathering after which it can then be put into service. Like many, having to wait for warranty expiry before effecting a change to a model's appearance is not an option, and therefore we do such at our own risk.

Draught-proofing around all doors and crevices is advantageous and will minimize trespassing by arachnids and the like. We're only about 10-20 miles from your location and likewise the prevailing South-Westerlies can whistle between buildings but happily damp is not a problem. Copious amounts of tea in winter and the "odd" pint in the warmer months ensures working and operating the railway in the garage is pleasurable.

Thanks. That will be absolutely fine; no 8 pin socket to chop out.