gobbler

Ive seen BLT mentioned in numerous posts and threads.... What does it mean? Thanks Scott

I'll get my tape measure out over the weekend, otherwise its a case of how longs a piece of string. It may be a case of running smaller loco's only. There is a chance to lengthen it too. Another 2ft or so. Thanks Scott

Happy new year all. Ive come across some peco code 100 bits and bobs, a bit of 4.6 x 20inch piece of 9mm. Sat there thinking......ive built all these wagons and coaches but nowhere to run them. As you can see space is limited. Ive got the class 31 parked near the top. A J72, J34 and V1 near the green splotch. I model Easten region transition period, these a class 37 and a scratch nearly built N7, are my locos of choice, i also have a cravens 105 and a partially scratch built Wickham 109. Btw the green splotch is possibly a brewey CD cattle dock, Just above is the goods yard with coal and possibly some oil. Station and bay. Ive a LH and RH points spare and plenty of flexi. Hints tips and ideas please Cheers Scott

Micklner, Seeing the rivets you've laid has inspired me to try again on the next builds i do. I'm not one for giving in to a sheet of decals, honest. I think it will be plank wagons next of various sizes. So I'll give them another go then. Thanks for your technique on laying them on a plain surface. Scott

When i cut the strip, and soaked ready to apply they twisted and crinkled the clear backing. Since then, I've given the areas a light sanding ready for my stretched sprue rivets. My method... 1. Gloss area 2. Place the ready to slide decal near the position 3. Pull the backing away. 4. Gently move into correct position with a cocktail stick and ear bud. The decal sheet was bought a year ago and look in good condition with no creasing on the sheet. Khris, it was the smaller rivets sheet, I used them first on my CCT, with varying degrees of success a few pages back. Even then I struggled, I also thought these decal rivets looked to 'fine'. Cheers, scott.

Well I've faffed around with the archer rivet decals without success, so I've bitten the bullet and stretched a few lengths of sprue. It's taken time, glueing all the rivets in place, just two ends left on one of the wagons. All rivets need to dry hard, then a light sanding. It would probably drive some people mad, but for me, weirdly satisfying......well it keeps me out of trouble. Thanks for looking.... Scott

Wagons look great, a bit modern for me, but I agree with Darius43. A touch of weathering and some loads will add to the overall appearance of them. Nice to see some other scratch builds happening out there. Scott

Haven't been slacking, the light sanding and the radii have been done to the rear T brackets. Passengers have been added, leaf springs done. Have started on some of the more noticeable rivets, these are made from stretched sprue. Once the rivets have hardened properly, they'll be easier to sand down, just the one side done so far. Just a few jobs left, the ther sides rivets, finish the axle box details, brake gear, bolt details for the split doors, then the roof. Thanks for looking. Scott

So, I'll be saving up for a gaugemaster then. Im a bit of a numpty when it come to the electrics side of things, but give me a sheet of plastic and a wagon or coach is no problem. Thanks Scott

Thanks for the 31 comments and thoughts, but back to controllers for a second, how about the H & M Duette, I want to run 2 loco's at a time. I've heard that they're built like tanks....any good? I know H&M haven't been made in donkeys years Anyone? Cheers, Scott

Some really nice builds. The narrow gauge bogie hopper looks good, going to make any more? The teak finish on your coaches really look superb. Could you do a step by step with paints, brushes and other stuff you've used to create the finish ? Thanks Scott

The state of my 31. All the buffer beams and coupling bits and bobs have just crumbled. As you can see, where the chassis has crumbled away ive tidied up the ends. But what will become of the rest of the chassis through time???? Will the mazak rot eventually chew its way through that too? Ive seen on the bay new guaranteed chassis for about £50. The fan end of the lower cab has 2 small splits, nothing that i should be able to camouflage. The other end appears to be ok. I'll see what i can do, i might take the plunge and get a new chassis, though its really gutting as you can imagine. I've never spent so much money on a loco before (though it was 10 years ago), and to think i may have to part with the little spare cash i have, rectifying hornbys manufacturers c*ck up the metal they used Grr!!!! Cheers Scott

Bit more progress, Most of the bracketry done, a light sand here and there, then just a few radii to add. Adding the lead into the bottom of the cattle pen is giving it a satisfying weighty feel. The W irons are glued and double 8 spoke wheels are in. FYI the inside distance between the W irons is 23.5mm, this seems to be ideal. Again, free rolling and no wobble. Think i might decorate the inside before i get carriec away with adding more delicate detail. Thanks for looking Scott

Another productive evening. The basic external bracing and doors has been done. Quite pleased with the result so far. I'll be adding some weight between the doors, before adding the roof, which will stop the droopyness of of the upper part of the wagon sides, It will need to be painted. Ive also noted that there appears to be two open slots on the ends of the cattle wagon. The few pictures i have of this vehicle show the odd bit of plumbers hemp....i mean straw scattered about the floor and protruding through these holes. A nice bit of detail to add, i think. Thanks for looking, Scott

It's just both ends (at the moment, at least for now), though the body moulding has a tiny split in the corners Can you give me more detail or is it a job of trying to botch it as best as I can? Cheers, Scott

Jon Exactly that, with the exception of cutting the slots in the side panels. Before cutting them out everything is scribed then the layers of details are added. I my have to invest in an olfa or tamiya panel scriber as when I scribe with the back of a 10A scalpel, it does tend to throw a burr up either side. Cheers Scott

Nice scratch builds. Looks like I'll need to invest in one of those olfa scribers. I've been using the back edge of a 10A scalpel, but does throw up a burr. Do you get the same problem with the olfa/ tamiya panel line scriber? If you look at my "my/our carriage scratch building" thread you may see what i mean. Cheers, Scott

On a bit of a roll tonight. Have made some good progress. Thats one side partially done. You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now. I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts. Thanks for looking Scott

Can't help myself, ever feel like that? Next up, a large GE cattle wagon. Im using LNER wagons, Vol 1, by Peter Tatlow. Just a one off this time, just to see how I get on with the roof. The two sides have been scribed, I'm now starting to build the details up. Thanks for looking, crits, Q's & comments are always welcome Scott

Guys, Thanks oh so much.....the culprit Every other loco runs sweet with this controller So ive been in the loft and dug these relics out (bringing back any memories, anyone?) My airfix class 31 runs smooth with these babies, though i dont have the low speed control id like. Didnt think the controller would be the problem, thanks again. Soooo, any recommendations for a controller with the output i need? Cheers Scott

A fairly newish Hornby DC controller. Btw the wheels are clean and when i apply the wires directly to the pick ups, same thing happens, no matter what speed the controller is set at it runs for a few seconds, i then have to wait several more before she'll run again. Frustrating, you can imagine, i wonder if there is a capacitor in there thats faulty??? Thanks Scott

Hi all, Not my usual scratch building antics. But, After my 10 year old, run twice, brand new Hornby class 31 fell apart, crumbled and generally disintegrated, after suffering from the mazac rot problem, I thought I'd get a replacement class 31. So I took the plunge and got my self an Airfix class 31. Considering the age of the model, it does look quite good. So out it comes I put it on my test track and off it went, for about 10 seconds and then came to an abrupt halt. I left it there for 10 seconds or more, then I flicked the direction and off it went again, and again after several seconds it stopped again. So I try reversing it and the same thing happens. Out come several more of my locos and they go up and down quite merrily without suddenly stopping, so I can rule out my controller having a hissy fit. So it must be something to do with the drive unit.......but what?? This is where I hope you fellows can step into the breech and give me some direction. Cheers Scott

A bit more done. Ive found my archer rivet decals, just some buffers needed to complete and of course a lick of paint. Thanks for looking Scott

The brass top hat bearings have been glued in and the 'W' irons stuck to the wagon base..... Both smooth runners, with the added bonus of no wobble....nice Ive noticed a couple of the angles on the irons look slighlty out. But onece the axle boxes and springs are on, they shouldn't notice (I hope !) Thanks for looking, dont forget any crits or ideas welcome Cheers, Scott

The drawing above........ One important dim left out....oops!! Just beside the 10.5, it should say 9.5, which is the height of the outer sloping edge. Better crack on a few more to do. Thanks for looking Scott